Kilo Racing 3 Rotor FD Conversion
06-14-13, 12:13 AM
#3752
Car looked hot before getting even hotter now 
Any update on the rx8 ac condenser setup?
I have a vmount now that I need to figure out how to get the ac going, pm me info on the wheels if you have them for sale, also how do you rate a thread?
Take care bud
Any update on the rx8 ac condenser setup?
I have a vmount now that I need to figure out how to get the ac going, pm me info on the wheels if you have them for sale, also how do you rate a thread?
Take care bud
06-14-13, 06:24 AM
#3753
^ Thanks for the compliments Tony, I appreciate it. I did like the way the car looked before but am excited to see how everything is going to come out with the new plan.
Regarding the RX8 condenser setup, I will post up info and pics when this happens. That won't be for a month or two as the first step now is getting the car painted while the engine is out. The painter won't start on the car for another week or so and then it will take about 4 weeks to complete the job.
Kilo did show me a setup he did with the RX8 unit and it looks and works great. The advantage to running the RX8 unit is the dryer is build into the end tanks so there is one less part (the stand alone RX7 dryer unit) to fit into the engine bay and space is a premium for me. The fittings on the end of the RX8 unit are different so Kilo used adapters to connect it. Kilo also puts the condenser on top of the radiator, with it being spaced about one inch up off the radiator. I'll get the details on all of this when we do the conversion.
So the wheels will be up for sale and I will shoot you a pm on them. I really like them and you'd be pleased too I think.
Finally, to rate a thread, look across the top of the page for the "Rating" drop down box. Click on it and select the rating you desire. I hope for this thread you can rate it "5 Stars Excellent". I've seen my rating recently drop from a 5 to a 2 star due to a campaign from a certain group of forum members. I am also not alone as several other prominent members with build threads have had the some problem. Curiously, at the same time, other threads have seen their ratings go up so I will let you draw your own conclusions on what is going on. I personally feel it's a shame this kind of stuff goes on but it is what it is.
Regarding the RX8 condenser setup, I will post up info and pics when this happens. That won't be for a month or two as the first step now is getting the car painted while the engine is out. The painter won't start on the car for another week or so and then it will take about 4 weeks to complete the job.
Kilo did show me a setup he did with the RX8 unit and it looks and works great. The advantage to running the RX8 unit is the dryer is build into the end tanks so there is one less part (the stand alone RX7 dryer unit) to fit into the engine bay and space is a premium for me. The fittings on the end of the RX8 unit are different so Kilo used adapters to connect it. Kilo also puts the condenser on top of the radiator, with it being spaced about one inch up off the radiator. I'll get the details on all of this when we do the conversion.
So the wheels will be up for sale and I will shoot you a pm on them. I really like them and you'd be pleased too I think.
Finally, to rate a thread, look across the top of the page for the "Rating" drop down box. Click on it and select the rating you desire. I hope for this thread you can rate it "5 Stars Excellent". I've seen my rating recently drop from a 5 to a 2 star due to a campaign from a certain group of forum members. I am also not alone as several other prominent members with build threads have had the some problem. Curiously, at the same time, other threads have seen their ratings go up so I will let you draw your own conclusions on what is going on. I personally feel it's a shame this kind of stuff goes on but it is what it is.
06-29-13, 12:25 PM
#3754
Thought it was time for an update
Car is at Kilo Racing in Orlando FL going through a pretty major overhaul, including engine work, cooling system mods, wiring, paint, and wheels. Here is what is being done:
ENGINE
The engine should be back together next week. The center housing lost compression due to two cracked corner seals. Housings are being resurfaced by Kilo, Goopy 3mm apex seals being installed, and the rest will be Mazda OEM stuff. Should have mentioned previously the oil and cooling seals were perfect with no damage or wear at all. I point this out as it is a pride of Kilo's. The housings will be repainted black and the irons silver but that is about it on the engine side. A pretty minor rebuild job.
Finally, flipping the oil cooler lines so they are on top instead of bottom. Have always felt that is just a problem waiting to happen.
COOLING SYSTEM
It's been a thorn in my side since day one so it's all out and a v-mount setup going in. My temps usually ran around 90 degrees Celsius and with the AC on, around 95. Did a bit better here in Asheville but have recently run higher, even after going through the entire cooling system and replacing the radiator with a much better Griffin unit. On the track, the car got too hot to run consistently and I'd have to pull in to cool it off.
So, Kilo, with the help of metal fabricator "Gato" is making a custom v-mount setup. We will use as large a radiator core to fit across the bottom as we can and then do the same with an intercooler on the top. Kilo is also going to use an RX8 condenser as it has the dryer built into the end tank of the unit, saving some space. Here is what it looks like:
The RX8 condenser costs under $100 and will go on top of the radiator. Kilo has done this with a few other cars and it worked out well.
Still plan on using RCCAZ1's templates for proper ducting as well so thanks for those Tim.
All in all, this should put an end to my temp issues so I will be happy not to have to continuously stare at the temp gauge.
WIRING
In short, it is a mess. Somewhere recently new wiring caused a bunch of gremlins to pop up including the ABS and ebrake lights staying on, the AC switch and blower not working, and my headlight and parking lights doing funky things. Too many cooks in the kitchen on this one so it's all being redone with the goal of ensuring it's all correct and then hiding as much as possible, including the engine relay boxes.
Speaking of ABS, thanks to all of you for your expert help on wether to keep ABS. In the end, I've decided to keep it and might revisit the issue in the future.
PAINT
This is a big step for me as I am the original owner of the car and its paint is stock. But it has the normal wear and tear of a 20 year old car so it goes to paint this Monday at Integrity Body Shop, right across from Kilo. Contact info:
1106 Quotation Ct, Saint Cloud, FL 34772
407-498-0249
Carlos Santiago runs the shop and has been doing expert custom paint jobs for many years, including work on Mazdas, American Muscle cars, and foreign exotics. His work is outstanding and Kilo uses him quite a bit for his race cars and customer rides and I've seen cars that had been painted over 5 years ago by him. The work looks as nice now as it did then.
Carlos was gracious enough to "school" me on painting techniques as I know very little about the process. He's a PPG and Matrix guy and is going to paint the car in "Jet Black" to give it a deep color. He's also a rotary guy but feels the Mazda black is too "brown" and to achieve the rich deep finish I want we need to use the Jet Black. So on it goes.
He's stripping the car completely and removing the body panels to prep. His process is a multi-step one, where he does body work, then sprays the car with primer. He then does more body work and applies a second coat of primer with more body work if needed.
The car then goes into the paint booth (he's got a very nice one, highly filtered and vented) where he applies a coat of sealant and then two coats of Jet Black. He will then use up to 5 coats of clear, allowing them to dry between each coat, and will wet sand between coat, to achieve a deep wet look.
Carlos indicates the stock paint is about 7 mils thick where the new will be around 11 so it should be very nice. Should also note the front fenders are being replaced with Shine 20mm wider ones (thanks Lenny).
He's going to take a lot of pics of the process so I'll post them up as I get them. Said it will take just two weeks to do it all. Pretty psyched to see how it comes out.
WHEELS
I love my current Forgeline WC3 setup and Michelin PS2s but Forgeline has graciously offered to sponsor me so off they come!
The new setup will use Forgeline's latest technology, the GA3s, or the street version of their GA3 racing wheels:
The wheels will be done in a matte black center with a gloss black outer lip like this racing GA3:
And the final look will have a red stripe added to the outer lip like this:
Some info on the rims:
The Forgeline GA3 is the Performance Series street version of the race-proven GA3R. The GA3 adds material to the center of its racing counterpart, allowing use of our standard center cap. And it uses stainless steel (rather than titanium) ARP assembly hardware.
Our new "I-beamed" spoke technology reduces weight and applies additional strength and rigidity within the spokes of the wheel. The hidden ARP assembly hardware delivers a smooth clean look and makes wheel cleaning faster and easier. The design of the GA3's center allows plenty of room for caliper clearance and extreme brake fitment. And we have employed a new proprietary fast-drying super-strength sealer that is highly resistant to leaks and allows for quick and easy repairs.
The GA3 is produced using our traditional forging method utilizing 6061-T6 aluminum with heat-treated rim-shells. And just like any Forgeline wheel, the GA3 is fully customizable in fitment and finish, including center-lock applications.
NOW AVAILABLE with a stepped lip in 17-inch, 18-inch, 19-inch, and 20-inch sizes. This wheel is also available in a reverse deep lip/flat lip in 18-inch and 19-inch sizes.
Derived From the GA3R Racing Wheel
3-Piece Performance Wheel
Stepped-Lip Design (Also available with a reverse deep lip/flat lip in 18-inch & 19-inch diameters.)
I-Beamed Spoke Technology
Hidden ARP Fasteners
Generous Brake Clearance
Forged 6061-T6 Aluminum
Heat-Treated Rim Shells
Includes Standard Aluminum Center Cap
Customizable Fitment and Finish Options
Legendary Forgeline Quality and Customer Service
There is a lot of info floating around the forum about rims and how they are made. I've asked Forgeline to give me some more info on their manufacturing process and will post it up once I receive it. Forgeline has been around for many years and is known as one of the highest quality manufacturers of lightweight performance wheels. They are also US based and do all of their own design and manufacturing in house.
TIRES
After going back and forth on new tires, from Toyos to PS2s, I've decided to try out the new BFGoodrich g-force Rivals:
BFGoodrich*g-Force Rival
They get absolutely fantastic reviews (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...y.jsp?ttid=169) and are right in my sweet spot of having a daily driven tire that is very trackable. So we shall see if the hype matches reality. Going with 275s up front and 315s in the rear. Not perfect for track but a good compromise I think.
I think that is it for now. More to come.
Car is at Kilo Racing in Orlando FL going through a pretty major overhaul, including engine work, cooling system mods, wiring, paint, and wheels. Here is what is being done:
ENGINE
The engine should be back together next week. The center housing lost compression due to two cracked corner seals. Housings are being resurfaced by Kilo, Goopy 3mm apex seals being installed, and the rest will be Mazda OEM stuff. Should have mentioned previously the oil and cooling seals were perfect with no damage or wear at all. I point this out as it is a pride of Kilo's. The housings will be repainted black and the irons silver but that is about it on the engine side. A pretty minor rebuild job.
Finally, flipping the oil cooler lines so they are on top instead of bottom. Have always felt that is just a problem waiting to happen.
COOLING SYSTEM
It's been a thorn in my side since day one so it's all out and a v-mount setup going in. My temps usually ran around 90 degrees Celsius and with the AC on, around 95. Did a bit better here in Asheville but have recently run higher, even after going through the entire cooling system and replacing the radiator with a much better Griffin unit. On the track, the car got too hot to run consistently and I'd have to pull in to cool it off.
So, Kilo, with the help of metal fabricator "Gato" is making a custom v-mount setup. We will use as large a radiator core to fit across the bottom as we can and then do the same with an intercooler on the top. Kilo is also going to use an RX8 condenser as it has the dryer built into the end tank of the unit, saving some space. Here is what it looks like:
The RX8 condenser costs under $100 and will go on top of the radiator. Kilo has done this with a few other cars and it worked out well.
Still plan on using RCCAZ1's templates for proper ducting as well so thanks for those Tim.
All in all, this should put an end to my temp issues so I will be happy not to have to continuously stare at the temp gauge.
WIRING
In short, it is a mess. Somewhere recently new wiring caused a bunch of gremlins to pop up including the ABS and ebrake lights staying on, the AC switch and blower not working, and my headlight and parking lights doing funky things. Too many cooks in the kitchen on this one so it's all being redone with the goal of ensuring it's all correct and then hiding as much as possible, including the engine relay boxes.
Speaking of ABS, thanks to all of you for your expert help on wether to keep ABS. In the end, I've decided to keep it and might revisit the issue in the future.
PAINT
This is a big step for me as I am the original owner of the car and its paint is stock. But it has the normal wear and tear of a 20 year old car so it goes to paint this Monday at Integrity Body Shop, right across from Kilo. Contact info:
1106 Quotation Ct, Saint Cloud, FL 34772
407-498-0249
Carlos Santiago runs the shop and has been doing expert custom paint jobs for many years, including work on Mazdas, American Muscle cars, and foreign exotics. His work is outstanding and Kilo uses him quite a bit for his race cars and customer rides and I've seen cars that had been painted over 5 years ago by him. The work looks as nice now as it did then.
Carlos was gracious enough to "school" me on painting techniques as I know very little about the process. He's a PPG and Matrix guy and is going to paint the car in "Jet Black" to give it a deep color. He's also a rotary guy but feels the Mazda black is too "brown" and to achieve the rich deep finish I want we need to use the Jet Black. So on it goes.
He's stripping the car completely and removing the body panels to prep. His process is a multi-step one, where he does body work, then sprays the car with primer. He then does more body work and applies a second coat of primer with more body work if needed.
The car then goes into the paint booth (he's got a very nice one, highly filtered and vented) where he applies a coat of sealant and then two coats of Jet Black. He will then use up to 5 coats of clear, allowing them to dry between each coat, and will wet sand between coat, to achieve a deep wet look.
Carlos indicates the stock paint is about 7 mils thick where the new will be around 11 so it should be very nice. Should also note the front fenders are being replaced with Shine 20mm wider ones (thanks Lenny).
He's going to take a lot of pics of the process so I'll post them up as I get them. Said it will take just two weeks to do it all. Pretty psyched to see how it comes out.
WHEELS
I love my current Forgeline WC3 setup and Michelin PS2s but Forgeline has graciously offered to sponsor me so off they come!
The new setup will use Forgeline's latest technology, the GA3s, or the street version of their GA3 racing wheels:
The wheels will be done in a matte black center with a gloss black outer lip like this racing GA3:
And the final look will have a red stripe added to the outer lip like this:
Some info on the rims:
The Forgeline GA3 is the Performance Series street version of the race-proven GA3R. The GA3 adds material to the center of its racing counterpart, allowing use of our standard center cap. And it uses stainless steel (rather than titanium) ARP assembly hardware.
Our new "I-beamed" spoke technology reduces weight and applies additional strength and rigidity within the spokes of the wheel. The hidden ARP assembly hardware delivers a smooth clean look and makes wheel cleaning faster and easier. The design of the GA3's center allows plenty of room for caliper clearance and extreme brake fitment. And we have employed a new proprietary fast-drying super-strength sealer that is highly resistant to leaks and allows for quick and easy repairs.
The GA3 is produced using our traditional forging method utilizing 6061-T6 aluminum with heat-treated rim-shells. And just like any Forgeline wheel, the GA3 is fully customizable in fitment and finish, including center-lock applications.
NOW AVAILABLE with a stepped lip in 17-inch, 18-inch, 19-inch, and 20-inch sizes. This wheel is also available in a reverse deep lip/flat lip in 18-inch and 19-inch sizes.
Derived From the GA3R Racing Wheel
3-Piece Performance Wheel
Stepped-Lip Design (Also available with a reverse deep lip/flat lip in 18-inch & 19-inch diameters.)
I-Beamed Spoke Technology
Hidden ARP Fasteners
Generous Brake Clearance
Forged 6061-T6 Aluminum
Heat-Treated Rim Shells
Includes Standard Aluminum Center Cap
Customizable Fitment and Finish Options
Legendary Forgeline Quality and Customer Service
There is a lot of info floating around the forum about rims and how they are made. I've asked Forgeline to give me some more info on their manufacturing process and will post it up once I receive it. Forgeline has been around for many years and is known as one of the highest quality manufacturers of lightweight performance wheels. They are also US based and do all of their own design and manufacturing in house.
TIRES
After going back and forth on new tires, from Toyos to PS2s, I've decided to try out the new BFGoodrich g-force Rivals:
BFGoodrich*g-Force Rival
They get absolutely fantastic reviews (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...y.jsp?ttid=169) and are right in my sweet spot of having a daily driven tire that is very trackable. So we shall see if the hype matches reality. Going with 275s up front and 315s in the rear. Not perfect for track but a good compromise I think.
I think that is it for now. More to come.
06-29-13, 06:38 PM
#3757
Hey Trey. Yes Jesus uses OEM coolant seals. He has a particular way of doing them and says he's never had a collolant seal issue on his engines. I guess it's his special sauce so to speak.
On the rear flares I would have agreed with you a few years back but I like them better bolted on so I'm going to stay with that.
Should have mentioned the new rims will be 18x10 on the front and 18x11.5 on the rear.
On the rear flares I would have agreed with you a few years back but I like them better bolted on so I'm going to stay with that.
Should have mentioned the new rims will be 18x10 on the front and 18x11.5 on the rear.
06-30-13, 06:56 AM
#3759
^ Go big or go home, right? 
It's a lot of items but my intentions now are to correct all the things that have nagged me for some time. Going to take care of it once and for all.
Yes, the engine bay is being painted as well as the door jambs. Even got some new stickers for these and the hood from Ray. Kilo has most everything out of the bay but will start tomorrow on getting everything else removed. It's good timing for this as the bay is starting to show its age. Found a big 2g ground wire under the left of the turbo that got so much heat it's fused to the frame.
Looking forward to nice and shiny
Too funny!
It's a lot of items but my intentions now are to correct all the things that have nagged me for some time. Going to take care of it once and for all.Yes, the engine bay is being painted as well as the door jambs. Even got some new stickers for these and the hood from Ray. Kilo has most everything out of the bay but will start tomorrow on getting everything else removed. It's good timing for this as the bay is starting to show its age. Found a big 2g ground wire under the left of the turbo that got so much heat it's fused to the frame.
Looking forward to nice and shiny
Too funny!
06-30-13, 09:29 AM
#3760
oh boy this is gonna be a crazy overhaul!! I cant wait to see the results! the rx8 condenser sounds brilliant, hope it works out.
but please no red lip on the rim lol just keep em black.. if youre dying for a contrast, maybe a grey or white.... but no red!
but please no red lip on the rim lol just keep em black.. if youre dying for a contrast, maybe a grey or white.... but no red!
06-30-13, 11:39 AM
#3761
Kilo has done a few of the RX8 condenser mods and they work well so no worries on that. As for the red stripe, I'm going for it. The safe choice would be white or grey, but for some reason I really like the red. Maybe I can start a "red revolution"?
06-30-13, 11:40 AM
#3762
I'd second the no red stripe call.
The "transparent smoke" finish they have for outer rims would look great with the satin black center, and prevent you from needing to polish them (it's a PITA, I know, it's why I sold my Fikses)
Forgeline: Transparent Smoke Outer Lip
The "transparent smoke" finish they have for outer rims would look great with the satin black center, and prevent you from needing to polish them (it's a PITA, I know, it's why I sold my Fikses)
Forgeline: Transparent Smoke Outer Lip
07-01-13, 09:19 AM
#3763
^ Here is an example of a satin black center with the transparent smoke outer lip:
I really like the look and the promise of not having to polish the lips is nice. However, on my current setup with polished lips, the lip held up well and I only needed to polish them a few times a year so it was no big deal. Plus I like the shiny look of a polished rim versus the transparent smoke outer anyway.
As I've always had polished lips, I'm trying something different with the new rims. We will see if it's a good decision
I really like the look and the promise of not having to polish the lips is nice. However, on my current setup with polished lips, the lip held up well and I only needed to polish them a few times a year so it was no big deal. Plus I like the shiny look of a polished rim versus the transparent smoke outer anyway.
As I've always had polished lips, I'm trying something different with the new rims. We will see if it's a good decision
07-01-13, 03:36 PM
#3764
Rotary Freak
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if you're having coolant temp problems, you should organize your v-mount with the rad on top and the ic on the bottom. put a couple puller fans behind the rad and build a duct on your hood to exhaust the rad heat.
this will prioritize airflow through the rad and out over the hood vs. going through the ic, plus allowing the rad heat to naturally rise up and out of the engine bay. water temp will be a lot cooler in this config.
this will prioritize airflow through the rad and out over the hood vs. going through the ic, plus allowing the rad heat to naturally rise up and out of the engine bay. water temp will be a lot cooler in this config.
07-01-13, 05:37 PM
#3765
Unless I am mistaken, I am limited on top in size as the front crash bar would get in the way of mounting the radiator up top. The space on the bottom is much larger and we can fit the radiator into the bumper. So we are shooting for something like RCCAZ1's setup:
With a setup like Tim's, we can go with a really large radiator and then mount the two pull fans on the bottom to extract air out under the car. Thought about putting in a splitter between the to to direct more air one way or the other as needed, but think we will test the setup first to see what our base temps are like and adjust from there.
I do have vents cut into the hood to extract air so we will have to see how that plays out in the end. Kilo has done more than a few of these and it's worked out great each time. This is in Orlando FL heat and humidity too so I think I'll be in good shape.
Thanks for your comments and any feedback is welcome.
With a setup like Tim's, we can go with a really large radiator and then mount the two pull fans on the bottom to extract air out under the car. Thought about putting in a splitter between the to to direct more air one way or the other as needed, but think we will test the setup first to see what our base temps are like and adjust from there.
I do have vents cut into the hood to extract air so we will have to see how that plays out in the end. Kilo has done more than a few of these and it's worked out great each time. This is in Orlando FL heat and humidity too so I think I'll be in good shape.
Thanks for your comments and any feedback is welcome.
07-10-13, 07:37 AM
#3768
Rotary Enthusiast
Sorry to hear about your engine failure. Had a few of those happen. Especialy with broken corner seals. Need to pull out my 13b BP engine for an overhaul as my compression is in the low 60's and it won't start 
Corner seals is an easy fix, but as you are doing so much work at the same time it's nice to take it slow.
I have a few recomendations when it comes to tires. Ive been running 18x10 and 18x11 on my car now. And i have 888 on it with 295 up front and 315 in the rear. And all i can say it's alot of traction with them. Iv'e used 888 a few times before and they are great for the price. Not the fastest but they work. And they are great in the rain.
But my best recomendation would be Yokohama Advan tires. Been running a few difrent from them from the old A032R to A048. And they are great, but they are quite expensive here in norway. Almost 4000 USD for a set
And 888 tires are over half that in price.
you could also go for Hoosier's but not so good on rain tho
Good luck with the engine and all the rest
JT
Corner seals is an easy fix, but as you are doing so much work at the same time it's nice to take it slow.
I have a few recomendations when it comes to tires. Ive been running 18x10 and 18x11 on my car now. And i have 888 on it with 295 up front and 315 in the rear. And all i can say it's alot of traction with them. Iv'e used 888 a few times before and they are great for the price. Not the fastest but they work. And they are great in the rain.
But my best recomendation would be Yokohama Advan tires. Been running a few difrent from them from the old A032R to A048. And they are great, but they are quite expensive here in norway. Almost 4000 USD for a set
And 888 tires are over half that in price.
you could also go for Hoosier's but not so good on rain tho
Good luck with the engine and all the rest
JT
07-10-13, 07:39 AM
#3769
Rotary Enthusiast
Oh and on a side note, get a second hatch and put a wing on it. You will need it for fast cornering on a track to get enough traction with your HP and speed.
And your car will look badass with a big GT wing at the back for track days
JT
And your car will look badass with a big GT wing at the back for track days
JT
07-10-13, 08:54 AM
#3770
Sorry to hear about your engine failure. Had a few of those happen. Especialy with broken corner seals. Need to pull out my 13b BP engine for an overhaul as my compression is in the low 60's and it won't start
Corner seals is an easy fix, but as you are doing so much work at the same time it's nice to take it slow.
I have a few recomendations when it comes to tires. Ive been running 18x10 and 18x11 on my car now. And i have 888 on it with 295 up front and 315 in the rear. And all i can say it's alot of traction with them. Iv'e used 888 a few times before and they are great for the price. Not the fastest but they work. And they are great in the rain.
But my best recomendation would be Yokohama Advan tires. Been running a few difrent from them from the old A032R to A048. And they are great, but they are quite expensive here in norway. Almost 4000 USD for a set
And 888 tires are over half that in price.
you could also go for Hoosier's but not so good on rain tho
Good luck with the engine and all the rest
JT
Corner seals is an easy fix, but as you are doing so much work at the same time it's nice to take it slow.
I have a few recomendations when it comes to tires. Ive been running 18x10 and 18x11 on my car now. And i have 888 on it with 295 up front and 315 in the rear. And all i can say it's alot of traction with them. Iv'e used 888 a few times before and they are great for the price. Not the fastest but they work. And they are great in the rain.
But my best recomendation would be Yokohama Advan tires. Been running a few difrent from them from the old A032R to A048. And they are great, but they are quite expensive here in norway. Almost 4000 USD for a set
And 888 tires are over half that in price.
you could also go for Hoosier's but not so good on rain tho
Good luck with the engine and all the rest
JT
Regarding the tire selection, I have already placed the order for the BFGoodrich g-force Rivals so I will see how those perform. Here is a good writeup on the tire:
BFGoodrich Rival - Extreme Performance Tire Test - Top Speed
I could have gotten the Toyo 888s for a sponsorship price but the reviews were mixed on them. I also know the Yokohama's are a really good choice so thank you for that recommendation. Not nearly that pricey here in the US so that is good
In the end, the BFGoodrich Rivals seem to be the best alternative for me but we shall see how that works out once I do a few events. I'm only a novice driver so probably any tire would work fine but I hope I have made the right decision.
That is a really good idea. Hadn't thought of that before and it seems the way to go. Maybe do a carbon fiber one with lexan glass and then the wing?
07-11-13, 01:35 AM
#3771
Rotary Enthusiast
Hmm BFG Used to own a set of that on my old Mazda 323 hatchback back in the day. Great tires.
But it looks like that they are not pure streatlegal semi slicks. As the 888 and A048. But as you stated you are learning. U will get to the point soon where you will need more grip
For the wing i would not go for a carbon hatch, as i have one and have had the Re-A GT300 wing on it and the hatch flexes. It needs alot of support at the back where the wing is mounted, so it don't flexes.
If you are not worried about the weight id go for a stock hatch. As it's alot better at holding the forces of the wing at bay.
JT
Used to own a set of that on my old Mazda 323 hatchback back in the day. Great tires.But it looks like that they are not pure streatlegal semi slicks. As the 888 and A048. But as you stated you are learning. U will get to the point soon where you will need more grip
For the wing i would not go for a carbon hatch, as i have one and have had the Re-A GT300 wing on it and the hatch flexes. It needs alot of support at the back where the wing is mounted, so it don't flexes.
If you are not worried about the weight id go for a stock hatch. As it's alot better at holding the forces of the wing at bay.
JT
07-11-13, 08:08 AM
#3772
^ Didn't really consider BFGoodrich until I learned of the Rival. For me, it seems like the perfect solution. I'm not an extremely skilled track driver and I also want something I can drive on the street but then take to the track on weekends. Given this, the Rival is specifically designed for me.
Check out the above chart to see where the Rival slots in, it's the one that brings the best of a street tire with the superior handling of a track tire. From what I've gathered, that is not just hype. Some really good drivers have reviewed it against a bunch of competitors and have found the Rival to be superior. Here is one comparison versus the very good Dunlop ZII:
"The short answer is that we were a full second faster on the Rival than on the ZII on a 2:08 lap of NOLA's full course. More importantly, we went out on the Rival first and found it to be very easy to go fast, very consistent (three laps in a row within tenths), very precise (easy to hit apexes) and very forgiving (tire could run at a large slip angle without giving up).
By contrast, the ZII was quite "peaky" developing maximum grip at small slip angles only, and would give up quickly as you went outside those zones. For a well-balanced car like the MX5, it proved to be a challenge to keep both front and rear within those zones consistently through all phases of a typical turn. We got a little out of shape several times on the ZII and never had it happen even once with the Rival, despite running 10 laps on each.
Here's a great chart that BFG showed us that explains the difference between a peaky tire and one that is progressive at the limit.
BFGoodrich Rival Launch Event, NOLA Motorsports Park, Jan 22-23, 2013 - Vorshlag Motorsports BMW (M3, E36, E46, E92), Evo, Mustang, Project Car and Racing Events Gallery.
Given all of that, the ZII is most likely to be highly setup dependent, and will reward precise driving. The Rival, on the other hand, floats all boats higher. It will make "heroes out of zeros", much in the way that the Kumho V710 r-comp did when it first came out, versus the super-precise Hoosier A3S03 of the day. This is especially critical on the track, where one small mistake can have disasterous results. For autocross, in the right hands and with the right setup, the ZII may prove to be faster for the best drivers. But that's a lot of "if's"."
So we shall see. I'll drive it on track a few times this year starting in October and will also have instructor level guys drive the car to give me their impressions as well.
Here are two pics of the tire:
The sidewall shot gives a good look as to why the tire performs well. See how far the tread laps over into the sidewall area? It's supposed to give the highest level of grip on a UHP tire while also helping to better shed water. In addition, the price is very competitive with all others and less than the Michelin PS2s , so all in all, it's a good bet for me.
Thanks also for advice on the hatch and the wing. I just need to convince the wife that the extra hatch is really a piece of art so I should be allowed to hang it on the wall
Check out the above chart to see where the Rival slots in, it's the one that brings the best of a street tire with the superior handling of a track tire. From what I've gathered, that is not just hype. Some really good drivers have reviewed it against a bunch of competitors and have found the Rival to be superior. Here is one comparison versus the very good Dunlop ZII:
"The short answer is that we were a full second faster on the Rival than on the ZII on a 2:08 lap of NOLA's full course. More importantly, we went out on the Rival first and found it to be very easy to go fast, very consistent (three laps in a row within tenths), very precise (easy to hit apexes) and very forgiving (tire could run at a large slip angle without giving up).
By contrast, the ZII was quite "peaky" developing maximum grip at small slip angles only, and would give up quickly as you went outside those zones. For a well-balanced car like the MX5, it proved to be a challenge to keep both front and rear within those zones consistently through all phases of a typical turn. We got a little out of shape several times on the ZII and never had it happen even once with the Rival, despite running 10 laps on each.
Here's a great chart that BFG showed us that explains the difference between a peaky tire and one that is progressive at the limit.
BFGoodrich Rival Launch Event, NOLA Motorsports Park, Jan 22-23, 2013 - Vorshlag Motorsports BMW (M3, E36, E46, E92), Evo, Mustang, Project Car and Racing Events Gallery.
Given all of that, the ZII is most likely to be highly setup dependent, and will reward precise driving. The Rival, on the other hand, floats all boats higher. It will make "heroes out of zeros", much in the way that the Kumho V710 r-comp did when it first came out, versus the super-precise Hoosier A3S03 of the day. This is especially critical on the track, where one small mistake can have disasterous results. For autocross, in the right hands and with the right setup, the ZII may prove to be faster for the best drivers. But that's a lot of "if's"."
So we shall see. I'll drive it on track a few times this year starting in October and will also have instructor level guys drive the car to give me their impressions as well.
Here are two pics of the tire:
The sidewall shot gives a good look as to why the tire performs well. See how far the tread laps over into the sidewall area? It's supposed to give the highest level of grip on a UHP tire while also helping to better shed water. In addition, the price is very competitive with all others and less than the Michelin PS2s , so all in all, it's a good bet for me.
Thanks also for advice on the hatch and the wing. I just need to convince the wife that the extra hatch is really a piece of art so I should be allowed to hang it on the wall
07-11-13, 08:17 AM
#3773
Rotary Enthusiast
Looks to be a good tire for what you want to do. And im interested in hearing about your testing og it.
Hehe, it's going up in the garage wall right? Then i guess she does not have anything to say about it, she will only see it when she takes here care out of the garage. And it's not like you want to hang it in the livingroom and use the wing as a bar table :P
It would be a good investment to have, once you start driving the car on the track. As it will give you alot more grip in the rear, and will make the car easier to drive.
Have a look at this video.
JT
Hehe, it's going up in the garage wall right? Then i guess she does not have anything to say about it, she will only see it when she takes here care out of the garage. And it's not like you want to hang it in the livingroom and use the wing as a bar table :P
It would be a good investment to have, once you start driving the car on the track. As it will give you alot more grip in the rear, and will make the car easier to drive.
Have a look at this video.
JT
07-11-13, 08:31 AM
#3774
My Japanese is a little rusty () but those are some nice results with the GT wing. Maybe I should mount a stock wing of some sort and replace it with the GT wing for track? I've just always liked the clean look of the car without a wing.
) but those are some nice results with the GT wing. Maybe I should mount a stock wing of some sort and replace it with the GT wing for track? I've just always liked the clean look of the car without a wing.
07-11-13, 08:42 AM
#3775
Rotary Enthusiast
The second is with 2 difrent wings you will get more mounting holes and they will not fit in the same place.
So id recomend 2 hatches. The MX5 guys here are doing dual hatches to get more grip for trackday events.
I prefer to have the GT look on the street as well
But is going stock hatch now as my carbon hatch is bending due to the force. And might put that on the new racecar and make mounting brackets in the chassi for the race car.JT