IV-Rotor Build: 12 plugs/ 9 bearings/ 8 ports = 1 monster
#129
Rotary Enthusiast
Realy a beautifull engone build. Is the throttle body adjustable at rpm or just set at a certain length?
Sounds good an all. Hmm 3 plugs would be great to put on my 4 rotor as well. But i think it would req a difrent ignition setup i guess.
Looking forward to getting my 4 rotor in a new chassi and get it running again.
Cheers for getting it running.
Looking forward to hearing it tearing down a track.
What did you do about noise reduction?
Mine was loud as hell.
129db with 2 mufflers.
JT
Sounds good an all. Hmm 3 plugs would be great to put on my 4 rotor as well. But i think it would req a difrent ignition setup i guess.
Looking forward to getting my 4 rotor in a new chassi and get it running again.
Cheers for getting it running.
Looking forward to hearing it tearing down a track.
What did you do about noise reduction?
Mine was loud as hell.
129db with 2 mufflers.
JT
#132
Rotary Enthusiast
#133
Realy a beautifull engone build. Is the throttle body adjustable at rpm or just set at a certain length?
Sounds good an all. Hmm 3 plugs would be great to put on my 4 rotor as well. But i think it would req a difrent ignition setup i guess.
Looking forward to getting my 4 rotor in a new chassi and get it running again.
Cheers for getting it running.
Looking forward to hearing it tearing down a track.
What did you do about noise reduction?
Mine was loud as hell.
129db with 2 mufflers.
JT
Sounds good an all. Hmm 3 plugs would be great to put on my 4 rotor as well. But i think it would req a difrent ignition setup i guess.
Looking forward to getting my 4 rotor in a new chassi and get it running again.
Cheers for getting it running.
Looking forward to hearing it tearing down a track.
What did you do about noise reduction?
Mine was loud as hell.
129db with 2 mufflers.
JT
The firing order is 1-3-2-4, which I believe is the true 787b firing order.
#137
So far looks like a good amount of engineering has gone into this, mad props! Few questions though....
What type of racing are you guys doing with this? NASA/SCCA?
With the horsepower that is being projected to be made, regardless of tire, are there any concerns of overpowering the chassis to the detriment of mid corner and corner out speed?
I guess theres quite a bit of testing that needs to happen, but are you guys forseeing chassis/balance issues as a consequence from the added horsepower?
IMO N/A is best for road racing. In a dance where tenths of seconds mean 5 positions on grid, and consistant drivers are king, keep your snail I want predictable power delivery
What type of racing are you guys doing with this? NASA/SCCA?
With the horsepower that is being projected to be made, regardless of tire, are there any concerns of overpowering the chassis to the detriment of mid corner and corner out speed?
I guess theres quite a bit of testing that needs to happen, but are you guys forseeing chassis/balance issues as a consequence from the added horsepower?
IMO N/A is best for road racing. In a dance where tenths of seconds mean 5 positions on grid, and consistant drivers are king, keep your snail I want predictable power delivery
#138
Bubblicious DEF.
iTrader: (36)
I never seen any of your work personally but I've always been impressed with the cars you've built (wish i was there when you went to KDR to show off some of your goodies). like seriously, you guys are building a 4 rotor and your thread has what 3? stars? haha the stupidity that has become of this forum...
good luck guys, keep posting, you guys really do some innovative stuff that we can all learn from
#139
This build is freaking awesome! I can't wait to see the kind of power this 4-rotor makes. Also, I am waiting with baited-breath for some videos with this monster revving.
#142
Johnny... Where did you see a limit on maximum rpm. I know he said in post 8 that he was planning to be able to go to 12,000 rpm. He may have lowered that for some reason, but I don't remember. The motor is clearly able to spin to 12,000 with the ceramic seals, light rotors, dry sump, and everything else.
Gordon
Gordon
#143
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (7)
apologies just read the post wrong i would have taught as its na that getting it spinning as quick as possible is the goal to create more power(maybe max power is not the ultimate goal) i just taught 12k was conservative with the work done on it, when that fc was at if i remember correctly like 16k
#144
yep im a noob when it comes to this sort of stuff so was hoping for someone to explain the reasons behind it so i can learn more
#146
apologies just read the post wrong i would have taught as its na that getting it spinning as quick as possible is the goal to create more power(maybe max power is not the ultimate goal) i just taught 12k was conservative with the work done on it, when that fc was at if i remember correctly like 16k
MPS never went past 10,000 rpm. The e-shaft did have a center bearing but is only part of what is needed to go past 10,500. They definitely never went to 16k, it just had a 16k tachometer.
Anything over 10,000 is a epic amount that is not easy to achieve by any means. And that is on a 2-rotor. 3 and 4-rotors are even more difficult. Hence why Mazdas 787b race car "only" went to 9,000 rpm.
12,000 is a limit I am setting for right now, and will not trust going over for fear of costly failure. Getting air and fuel into the motor alone at 12k is quite a feat nobody (that I know of) has done. So we will be the first on a 4-rotor to push the envelope this far.
8500 rpm- stock upper limits with steel 2mm apex seals
9000 rpm- perfect bearing clearances, high oil pressure, side clearanced rotors
10000 rpm- Ceramic apex seals, 89 up factory rotors only, drysump system, even more oil pressure, good hardened stat gears (no Rx8), tension bolt mods.
10500 rpm- Lightened rotors, snap ringing
11,000 rpm- center needle bearing support and even more perfect clearances/oil pressure, special stat gear bolts.
12,000 rpm- VERY light rotors, special stat gear profiles, rotor gear mods, Big ol' ports and that is the tip of the iceburg!
I use stock until race days or dyno days, then I go with colder race plugs
#149
Rotary Enthusiast
Another issue is wear and tear on the side seals and corner seals.
The wear goes up exponential with rpm. At 9500 rpm the lifespan is perhaps 1000 hours tracktime. At 12000 rpm it might be 50 hours or less.
To get to 12000 rpm one might need to go for titanium rotors as well wich is quite alot lighter.
JT
The wear goes up exponential with rpm. At 9500 rpm the lifespan is perhaps 1000 hours tracktime. At 12000 rpm it might be 50 hours or less.
To get to 12000 rpm one might need to go for titanium rotors as well wich is quite alot lighter.
JT