i got another ANOTHER FD. what is wrong with me
#251
Infinite Rotary Resolve
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My contacts at Borg Warner indicate they "have not yet found an installation where the use of a properly-designed and executed control system didn’t result in flawless operation". They also say, "Most issues stem from an incorrect actuator canister selection and mis-adjustment, as well as issues of understanding the (important) role that the BCSV (boost control spill valve) plays in controlling the actuator."
#253
david, thanks for the response:
i may lean the map out slightly. i am going to do some reviewing of the datalogs and do some small fine tuning next week. i am well aware that it's rich, but the extra ~10whp i'll get from leaning it out up into the mid 11's won't do much. also, in my experience, the car leans out slightly when you leave the dyno and get out on the street and have more airflow. i did some logs on the way home from the dyno, and this was not the case in this instance, but i will be watching it the next few times i drive it.
i'm convinced that this 8374 is the perfect size. the response is great and the power is great. i think stepping up to a 9180 will do nothing in the midrange and only increase peak power, which i'm not really interested in.
i say a 9180 may do nothing additional in the midrange because with the 8374 i got the engine/turbo to surge at ~3100rpms if i had the boost above 12 lbs (see earlier posts about not being able to control the boost on the alternate actuator). increasing the size of the compressor will only make the surge worse, as the engine can only ingest so much air. of course, it would make more power in the higher RPMs, but i don't need that.
thanks. i used this during the install/setup process (hosted on the full-race site): http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf
i followed the BW tech manual perfectly, and i don't yet have an explanation as to why the low boost actuator made my boost uncontrollable. the wastegate opened fully at low RPM and the boost pressure at which it opened correlated perfectly to the amount of preload that was set on the actuator rod.
i would love for an expert to provide a detailed explanation of why the boost would creep to 15psi on the low boost canister but not with the medium boost canister, because i am stumped.
anyway, it worked out perfectly the morning before the dyno, so everything went smoothly. i am just going to enjoy it now and focus on not being a terribly slow driver at the track event April 5th
i say a 9180 may do nothing additional in the midrange because with the 8374 i got the engine/turbo to surge at ~3100rpms if i had the boost above 12 lbs (see earlier posts about not being able to control the boost on the alternate actuator). increasing the size of the compressor will only make the surge worse, as the engine can only ingest so much air. of course, it would make more power in the higher RPMs, but i don't need that.
Wanted to point out Borg Warner has a really detailed Feature Guide and Training Manual for the EFR turbo line:
http://www.3k-warner.de/files/pdf/ef...ical_brief.pdf
http://www.3k-warner.de/files/pdf/ef...ical_brief.pdf
My contacts at Borg Warner indicate they "have not yet found an installation where the use of a properly-designed and executed control system didn’t result in flawless operation". They also say, "Most issues stem from an incorrect actuator canister selection and mis-adjustment, as well as issues of understanding the (important) role that the BCSV (boost control spill valve) plays in controlling the actuator."
Hope this helps and look forward to seeing more results.
Hope this helps and look forward to seeing more results.
i would love for an expert to provide a detailed explanation of why the boost would creep to 15psi on the low boost canister but not with the medium boost canister, because i am stumped.
anyway, it worked out perfectly the morning before the dyno, so everything went smoothly. i am just going to enjoy it now and focus on not being a terribly slow driver at the track event April 5th
#254
Lives on the Forum
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^ Thanks for the reply and I am very happy for you.
What size AR are you using?
Regarding the track event, where are you going and have you been to the track before? I just started going last year and remember the feeling (at VIR) of being really nervous. I always say don't worry about the speed, focus on learning how to drive (braking, track in, track out) and your speeds will increase as your skills do. I've gotten much better but still have a long way to go.
What size AR are you using?
Regarding the track event, where are you going and have you been to the track before? I just started going last year and remember the feeling (at VIR) of being really nervous. I always say don't worry about the speed, focus on learning how to drive (braking, track in, track out) and your speeds will increase as your skills do. I've gotten much better but still have a long way to go.
#255
no prob.
this is the .92 divided internal wastegate housing.
this time we are going to Putnam Park in indiana. i've done 3 track days previously (Barber Mototsports Park once and Road Atlanta twice).
yes. road atlanta is pretty "high stakes" so i was a little scared and not driving all-out, like some of the others (though, i didn't crash!)
this is the .92 divided internal wastegate housing.
this time we are going to Putnam Park in indiana. i've done 3 track days previously (Barber Mototsports Park once and Road Atlanta twice).
yes. road atlanta is pretty "high stakes" so i was a little scared and not driving all-out, like some of the others (though, i didn't crash!)
#258
I will ask Geoff to come comment on the actuator.
This TurboSmart actuator might be the ticket...
Internal Wastegates
#259
Sua Sponte
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[QUOTE=David Hayes;11705132Regarding the track event, where are you going and have you been to the track before? I just started going last year and remember the feeling (at VIR) of being really nervous. I always say don't worry about the speed, focus on learning how to drive (braking, track in, track out) and your speeds will increase as your skills do. I've gotten much better but still have a long way to go.[/QUOTE]
Jacob has a good amount of seat time under his belt. He also has been AutoXing for many years which also makes him no slouch behind the wheel. BTW, I think the term you were looking for was 'turn in'.
Cartmill, glad you were able to get her going!
Jacob has a good amount of seat time under his belt. He also has been AutoXing for many years which also makes him no slouch behind the wheel. BTW, I think the term you were looking for was 'turn in'.
Cartmill, glad you were able to get her going!
#261
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That dyno run was awesome, glad it all worked out for you. Been eyeing your build for awhile knowing you decided to go with the IWG, quite a few people have shyed away from it, so was excited you got it running right. Did you do a high boost setting at all? Good luck at your next track event!
#270
Last edited by Turblown; 03-26-14 at 07:10 AM.
#273
i bought a replacement tach from a forum member, then i installed it and saw that it was slightly "jumpy," but in a different way from my original one --seeming to have a dead spot between 2000-3000rpms and again between 5000-6000rpms. no bueno.
SO, i decided i'd take apart my original one (and risk completely destroying it). i took it apart and saw that the metal "sleeve/ribbon" thing that surrounds the armature (inside the plastic cup that the armature sits in) had some rust on it somehow, on the side that faces the armature, which could be causing some voltage drop or interference. i removed it and saw that the back side of this sleeve/ribbon thing was perfectly shiny.
so i flipped the sleeve/ribbon over and put it back in the cup, dropped the armature back into the cup, reinstalled it, and now it's working perfectly...
i know it sounds strange. i hadn't heard of this in all my reading about stock tachs going out, but this completely fixed it.
SO, i decided i'd take apart my original one (and risk completely destroying it). i took it apart and saw that the metal "sleeve/ribbon" thing that surrounds the armature (inside the plastic cup that the armature sits in) had some rust on it somehow, on the side that faces the armature, which could be causing some voltage drop or interference. i removed it and saw that the back side of this sleeve/ribbon thing was perfectly shiny.
so i flipped the sleeve/ribbon over and put it back in the cup, dropped the armature back into the cup, reinstalled it, and now it's working perfectly...
i know it sounds strange. i hadn't heard of this in all my reading about stock tachs going out, but this completely fixed it.