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i got another ANOTHER FD. what is wrong with me

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Old 03-24-14, 12:33 PM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by David Hayes

My contacts at Borg Warner indicate they "have not yet found an installation where the use of a properly-designed and executed control system didn’t result in flawless operation". They also say, "Most issues stem from an incorrect actuator canister selection and mis-adjustment, as well as issues of understanding the (important) role that the BCSV (boost control spill valve) plays in controlling the actuator."
We could have sworn we were using the proper "low boost" actuator initially (I mean that we were actually using the correct model# actuator), and the current actuator is set up the same as the first. The BCSV was working properly to help build boost faster, but even at 0% it was still overboosting. We really don't know what the actual difference made when switching to the "medium boost" canister, but it obviously helped. Maybe in real world use the "low boost" actuator just wasn't performing? or maybe it had an issue/defect we haven't found? Regardless, this setup works well now and obviously has no issues controlling the boost. He is currently using the BCSV as typically used with helping build boost and maintaining constant boost for the entire range.
Old 03-24-14, 12:36 PM
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^ That is awesome and glad to see success. I know how frustrating it can be to not have it work.

I posted up the link mostly for other guys interesting in the EFR line and using the really cool built in capabilities like you guys are.
Old 03-24-14, 12:47 PM
  #253  
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david, thanks for the response:

Originally Posted by David Hayes
Any plans on getting the AFRs more to around 11.0 -11.3? The 10s are just really rich.
i may lean the map out slightly. i am going to do some reviewing of the datalogs and do some small fine tuning next week. i am well aware that it's rich, but the extra ~10whp i'll get from leaning it out up into the mid 11's won't do much. also, in my experience, the car leans out slightly when you leave the dyno and get out on the street and have more airflow. i did some logs on the way home from the dyno, and this was not the case in this instance, but i will be watching it the next few times i drive it.

Originally Posted by David Hayes
Glad to see you got the issue resolved and are pleased with the EFR turbo. Love the spool up on it. Did you say somewhere what size AR you are running? I'd also love to see someone install and test a 9180 with a small AR on a 2 rotor. That would be a beast I think.
i'm convinced that this 8374 is the perfect size. the response is great and the power is great. i think stepping up to a 9180 will do nothing in the midrange and only increase peak power, which i'm not really interested in.
i say a 9180 may do nothing additional in the midrange because with the 8374 i got the engine/turbo to surge at ~3100rpms if i had the boost above 12 lbs (see earlier posts about not being able to control the boost on the alternate actuator). increasing the size of the compressor will only make the surge worse, as the engine can only ingest so much air. of course, it would make more power in the higher RPMs, but i don't need that.

Originally Posted by David Hayes
Wanted to point out Borg Warner has a really detailed Feature Guide and Training Manual for the EFR turbo line:

http://www.3k-warner.de/files/pdf/ef...ical_brief.pdf
thanks. i used this during the install/setup process (hosted on the full-race site): http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf

Originally Posted by David Hayes
My contacts at Borg Warner indicate they "have not yet found an installation where the use of a properly-designed and executed control system didn’t result in flawless operation". They also say, "Most issues stem from an incorrect actuator canister selection and mis-adjustment, as well as issues of understanding the (important) role that the BCSV (boost control spill valve) plays in controlling the actuator."
Hope this helps and look forward to seeing more results.
i followed the BW tech manual perfectly, and i don't yet have an explanation as to why the low boost actuator made my boost uncontrollable. the wastegate opened fully at low RPM and the boost pressure at which it opened correlated perfectly to the amount of preload that was set on the actuator rod.
i would love for an expert to provide a detailed explanation of why the boost would creep to 15psi on the low boost canister but not with the medium boost canister, because i am stumped.

anyway, it worked out perfectly the morning before the dyno, so everything went smoothly. i am just going to enjoy it now and focus on not being a terribly slow driver at the track event April 5th
Old 03-24-14, 12:54 PM
  #254  
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^ Thanks for the reply and I am very happy for you.

What size AR are you using?

Regarding the track event, where are you going and have you been to the track before? I just started going last year and remember the feeling (at VIR) of being really nervous. I always say don't worry about the speed, focus on learning how to drive (braking, track in, track out) and your speeds will increase as your skills do. I've gotten much better but still have a long way to go.
Old 03-24-14, 01:00 PM
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no prob.

this is the .92 divided internal wastegate housing.

this time we are going to Putnam Park in indiana. i've done 3 track days previously (Barber Mototsports Park once and Road Atlanta twice).
yes. road atlanta is pretty "high stakes" so i was a little scared and not driving all-out, like some of the others (though, i didn't crash!)
Old 03-24-14, 01:18 PM
  #256  
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Any guess what this turbo would be like on a stock ported motor? I can only assume it would be great being that it is more responsive than the 6262 .84 you had previously. I am getting really excited and cant wait for my damn tax refund. haha
Old 03-24-14, 01:27 PM
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silverTRD, i would guess it would be very similar, but maybe 10% less power and maybe 100-200 rpms later boost. it should still be very responsive, especially compared to a journal bearing 6262 setup, as you mentioned.
Old 03-24-14, 02:02 PM
  #258  
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Originally Posted by silverTRD
Any guess what this turbo would be like on a stock ported motor? I can only assume it would be great being that it is more responsive than the 6262 .84 you had previously. I am getting really excited and cant wait for my damn tax refund. haha
I am dyno tuning Shawn's to 30psi( stock port, E85, 8374 IWG) in about two weeks...

I will ask Geoff to come comment on the actuator.

This TurboSmart actuator might be the ticket...

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Old 03-24-14, 03:32 PM
  #259  
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[QUOTE=David Hayes;11705132Regarding the track event, where are you going and have you been to the track before? I just started going last year and remember the feeling (at VIR) of being really nervous. I always say don't worry about the speed, focus on learning how to drive (braking, track in, track out) and your speeds will increase as your skills do. I've gotten much better but still have a long way to go.[/QUOTE]

Jacob has a good amount of seat time under his belt. He also has been AutoXing for many years which also makes him no slouch behind the wheel. BTW, I think the term you were looking for was 'turn in'.

Cartmill, glad you were able to get her going!
Old 03-24-14, 04:18 PM
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^ Too funny. Show's you I have a lot to still learn. Better now that I was with you guys at VIR two years ago.
Old 03-25-14, 12:39 AM
  #261  
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That dyno run was awesome, glad it all worked out for you. Been eyeing your build for awhile knowing you decided to go with the IWG, quite a few people have shyed away from it, so was excited you got it running right. Did you do a high boost setting at all? Good luck at your next track event!
Old 03-25-14, 06:14 AM
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It's nice to see this turbo in action. Thanks for posting. Are you concerned about the glowing hot exhaust? I've been on a dyno almost 10 times through the years and never saw an exhaust do that. Maybe it's normal, but for me, I'd be a bit concerned.
Old 03-25-14, 10:26 AM
  #263  
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Originally Posted by moehler
It's nice to see this turbo in action. Thanks for posting. Are you concerned about the glowing hot exhaust? I've been on a dyno almost 10 times through the years and never saw an exhaust do that. Maybe it's normal, but for me, I'd be a bit concerned.

moehler, were you doing any on/off throttle tuning or and steady state load tuning?

if you're doing 3 separate power pulls the exhaust isn't going to gear nearly as hot.
Old 03-25-14, 04:20 PM
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another dyno graph of the same run, but with the axes fixed:

Old 03-25-14, 04:28 PM
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Looks to have a similar torque curve like the factory or upgraded twins. Was your choice to run low power on a single turbo to simplify everything/reliability?
Old 03-25-14, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rx7 SE
Was your choice to run low power on a single turbo to simplify everything/reliability?

yep.

if i wanted more power i'd turn the boost up.
Old 03-25-14, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
yep.

if i wanted more power i'd turn the boost up.
Very nice. I don't think you can get a much broader low end power band then that on our platform .
Old 03-25-14, 10:55 PM
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fixed the tach. aw yeah!
Old 03-26-14, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
moehler, were you doing any on/off throttle tuning or and steady state load tuning?

if you're doing 3 separate power pulls the exhaust isn't going to gear nearly as hot.
Typically both, but primarily on/off throttle runs one the car is dialed in. The glowing turbo and DP just seems extreme to me regardless of the load, but I really don't know.
Old 03-26-14, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by moehler
Typically both, but primarily on/off throttle runs one the car is dialed in. The glowing turbo and DP just seems extreme to me regardless of the load, but I really don't know.
It's 100 percent Normal.

http://www.periodni.com/slike/its-90.gif
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Last edited by Turblown; 03-26-14 at 07:10 AM.
Old 03-26-14, 07:28 AM
  #271  
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Since they are testing the turbo, might as well also do some 2 stepping the next time to see how well that turbine wheel can handle it.
Old 03-26-14, 07:37 AM
  #272  
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
fixed the tach. aw yeah!
How did u fix it?
Old 03-26-14, 12:03 PM
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i bought a replacement tach from a forum member, then i installed it and saw that it was slightly "jumpy," but in a different way from my original one --seeming to have a dead spot between 2000-3000rpms and again between 5000-6000rpms. no bueno.

SO, i decided i'd take apart my original one (and risk completely destroying it). i took it apart and saw that the metal "sleeve/ribbon" thing that surrounds the armature (inside the plastic cup that the armature sits in) had some rust on it somehow, on the side that faces the armature, which could be causing some voltage drop or interference. i removed it and saw that the back side of this sleeve/ribbon thing was perfectly shiny.
so i flipped the sleeve/ribbon over and put it back in the cup, dropped the armature back into the cup, reinstalled it, and now it's working perfectly...

i know it sounds strange. i hadn't heard of this in all my reading about stock tachs going out, but this completely fixed it.
Old 03-26-14, 02:45 PM
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I sent a 8374 1.05 external over to RicShaw Racing and they already did a 12 hour endurance race with it. Zero problems...
Old 03-29-14, 12:10 AM
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failed emissions today. tennessee emissions does sniffer test for pre-obd2 cars. dumb.



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