We could have sworn we were using the proper "low boost" actuator initially (I mean that we were actually using the correct model# actuator), and the current actuator is set up the same as the first. The BCSV was working properly to help build boost faster, but even at 0% it was still overboosting. We really don't know what the actual difference made when switching to the "medium boost" canister, but it obviously helped. Maybe in real world use the "low boost" actuator just wasn't performing? or maybe it had an issue/defect we haven't found? Regardless, this setup works well now and obviously has no issues controlling the boost. He is currently using the BCSV as typically used with helping build boost and maintaining constant boost for the entire range.

 

^ That is awesome and glad to see success. I know how frustrating it can be to not have it work.

I posted up the link mostly for other guys interesting in the EFR line and using the really cool built in capabilities like you guys are.

 

david, thanks for the response:

i may lean the map out slightly. i am going to do some reviewing of the datalogs and do some small fine tuning next week. i am well aware that it's rich, but the extra ~10whp i'll get from leaning it out up into the mid 11's won't do much. also, in my experience, the car leans out slightly when you leave the dyno and get out on the street and have more airflow. i did some logs on the way home from the dyno, and this was not the case in this instance, but i will be watching it the next few times i drive it.

i'm convinced that this 8374 is the perfect size. the response is great and the power is great. i think stepping up to a 9180 will do nothing in the midrange and only increase peak power, which i'm not really interested in.
i say a 9180 may do nothing additional in the midrange because with the 8374 i got the engine/turbo to surge at ~3100rpms if i had the boost above 12 lbs (see earlier posts about not being able to control the boost on the alternate actuator). increasing the size of the compressor will only make the surge worse, as the engine can only ingest so much air. of course, it would make more power in the higher RPMs, but i don't need that.

thanks. i used this during the install/setup process (hosted on the full-race site): http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf

i followed the BW tech manual perfectly, and i don't yet have an explanation as to why the low boost actuator made my boost uncontrollable. the wastegate opened fully at low RPM and the boost pressure at which it opened correlated perfectly to the amount of preload that was set on the actuator rod.
i would love for an expert to provide a detailed explanation of why the boost would creep to 15psi on the low boost canister but not with the medium boost canister, because i am stumped.

anyway, it worked out perfectly the morning before the dyno, so everything went smoothly. i am just going to enjoy it now and focus on not being a terribly slow driver at the track event April 5th

 

^ Thanks for the reply and I am very happy for you.

What size AR are you using?

Regarding the track event, where are you going and have you been to the track before? I just started going last year and remember the feeling (at VIR) of being really nervous. I always say don't worry about the speed, focus on learning how to drive (braking, track in, track out) and your speeds will increase as your skills do. I've gotten much better but still have a long way to go.

 

no prob.

this is the .92 divided internal wastegate housing.

this time we are going to Putnam Park in indiana. i've done 3 track days previously (Barber Mototsports Park once and Road Atlanta twice).
yes. road atlanta is pretty "high stakes" so i was a little scared and not driving all-out, like some of the others (though, i didn't crash!)

 

Any guess what this turbo would be like on a stock ported motor? I can only assume it would be great being that it is more responsive than the 6262 .84 you had previously. I am getting really excited and cant wait for my damn tax refund. haha

 

silverTRD, i would guess it would be very similar, but maybe 10% less power and maybe 100-200 rpms later boost. it should still be very responsive, especially compared to a journal bearing 6262 setup, as you mentioned.

 

I am dyno tuning Shawn's to 30psi( stock port, E85, 8374 IWG) in about two weeks...

I will ask Geoff to come comment on the actuator.

This TurboSmart actuator might be the ticket...

Internal Wastegates

 

[QUOTE=David Hayes;11705132Regarding the track event, where are you going and have you been to the track before? I just started going last year and remember the feeling (at VIR) of being really nervous. I always say don't worry about the speed, focus on learning how to drive (braking, track in, track out) and your speeds will increase as your skills do. I've gotten much better but still have a long way to go.[/QUOTE]

Jacob has a good amount of seat time under his belt. He also has been AutoXing for many years which also makes him no slouch behind the wheel. BTW, I think the term you were looking for was 'turn in'.

Cartmill, glad you were able to get her going!

 

^ Too funny. Show's you I have a lot to still learn. Better now that I was with you guys at VIR two years ago.

 

That dyno run was awesome, glad it all worked out for you. Been eyeing your build for awhile knowing you decided to go with the IWG, quite a few people have shyed away from it, so was excited you got it running right. Did you do a high boost setting at all? Good luck at your next track event!

 

It's nice to see this turbo in action. Thanks for posting. Are you concerned about the glowing hot exhaust? I've been on a dyno almost 10 times through the years and never saw an exhaust do that. Maybe it's normal, but for me, I'd be a bit concerned.

 

moehler, were you doing any on/off throttle tuning or and steady state load tuning?

if you're doing 3 separate power pulls the exhaust isn't going to gear nearly as hot.

 

another dyno graph of the same run, but with the axes fixed:

 

Looks to have a similar torque curve like the factory or upgraded twins. Was your choice to run low power on a single turbo to simplify everything/reliability?

 

yep.

if i wanted more power i'd turn the boost up.

 

Very nice. I don't think you can get a much broader low end power band then that on our platform .

 

fixed the tach. aw yeah!

 

Typically both, but primarily on/off throttle runs one the car is dialed in. The glowing turbo and DP just seems extreme to me regardless of the load, but I really don't know.

 

It's 100 percent Normal.

http://www.periodni.com/slike/its-90.gif

 

Since they are testing the turbo, might as well also do some 2 stepping the next time to see how well that turbine wheel can handle it.

 

How did u fix it?

 

i bought a replacement tach from a forum member, then i installed it and saw that it was slightly "jumpy," but in a different way from my original one --seeming to have a dead spot between 2000-3000rpms and again between 5000-6000rpms. no bueno.

SO, i decided i'd take apart my original one (and risk completely destroying it). i took it apart and saw that the metal "sleeve/ribbon" thing that surrounds the armature (inside the plastic cup that the armature sits in) had some rust on it somehow, on the side that faces the armature, which could be causing some voltage drop or interference. i removed it and saw that the back side of this sleeve/ribbon thing was perfectly shiny.
so i flipped the sleeve/ribbon over and put it back in the cup, dropped the armature back into the cup, reinstalled it, and now it's working perfectly...

i know it sounds strange. i hadn't heard of this in all my reading about stock tachs going out, but this completely fixed it.

 

I sent a 8374 1.05 external over to RicShaw Racing and they already did a 12 hour endurance race with it. Zero problems...

 

failed emissions today. tennessee emissions does sniffer test for pre-obd2 cars. dumb.