Hamfist Racing FD3S Build Thread: SCCA SSM / NASA TTS
Update:
HKS Single Turbo Kit is Installed incl.
HKS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifold
HKS Wastegate with 10 psi spring
HKS Downpipe custom wrapped
Turbo XS BOV
Also, the car for got a *new* diff off a low miles automatic FD, rebuilt with new seals and shorter final drive gears, 4.777 at KDR Performance. The diff went back on with new Pettit Race Differential Bushings replace my worn oem ones.
The fresh KDR tune was assisted by a MAC 3 Way Solenoid Valve electronic boost controller. As usual the dyno brought out the slip in my clutch, so the car was tuned in 3rd gear. It made 356 whp and ~300 ft*lbs at 1 Bar of pressure. The 850cc X4 injectors worked just fine and ran at ~85% peak duties. A GM 3 Bar MAP sensor will help dial in some additional power later but for now, the car is a monster regardless.
Lastly, the car got a new set of race wheels and tires. Now it's on 18x10 CCW C10's with 295/30/18 Hoosier A6's.
HKS Single Turbo Kit is Installed incl.
HKS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifold
HKS Wastegate with 10 psi spring
HKS Downpipe custom wrapped
Turbo XS BOV
Also, the car for got a *new* diff off a low miles automatic FD, rebuilt with new seals and shorter final drive gears, 4.777 at KDR Performance. The diff went back on with new Pettit Race Differential Bushings replace my worn oem ones.
The fresh KDR tune was assisted by a MAC 3 Way Solenoid Valve electronic boost controller. As usual the dyno brought out the slip in my clutch, so the car was tuned in 3rd gear. It made 356 whp and ~300 ft*lbs at 1 Bar of pressure. The 850cc X4 injectors worked just fine and ran at ~85% peak duties. A GM 3 Bar MAP sensor will help dial in some additional power later but for now, the car is a monster regardless.
Lastly, the car got a new set of race wheels and tires. Now it's on 18x10 CCW C10's with 295/30/18 Hoosier A6's.
if you're only running 1 bar of boost a 3 bar map sensor seems a little silly IMO. Is your motor ported at all? 356 seems a little low for 1 bar, but I don't know how much that turbo flows. You may want to step up to larger secondaries if you're at 85% IDC right now.
Not criticizing, just trying to help, I could be way off base there.
edit: what kind of dyno was this on?
Not criticizing, just trying to help, I could be way off base there.
edit: what kind of dyno was this on?
I don' t see a problem with my 79-85% peak duties. They dyno was a dynojet IIRC. The pull was 3rd gear. Not a 4th gear 1:1 engine to drivetrain ratio. I believe the power in 4th would be higher. I ordered a 3 bar map sensor so I can tune over 1 bar. Maybe 17psi depending on fuel limits. I probably would stop at ~90% duties.
In general, the car is an absolute monster! At the Meadowlands last friday the car ran fastest time of day and was a real blast to drive.
The car tore out of every turn with little turbo lag - granted the course was fairly open with no real pinch points. In general, the car now rotates perfectly with some throttle application mid corner and at corner exit. This has much more to do with gearing than the turbos.
In the past, throttle application at corner exit would slowly shift weight off the front tires. The rate at which the car would build RPM took too long. By the time the car built torque at the rear wheels it would already be understeering. Only then would the torque begin to rotate the car. By then it was too late. Corner exit was spent juggling initial understeer to subsequent oversteer. As a result, I felt the car was not compliant and difficult to drive. Now, the gears make the rear wheels slip just enough to rotate the car before the weight moves to the rear (adding grip). The rotation is managable. A slight lift will resettle the rear.
The turbo lag is a little greater now than with the old turbo, however, the consistency of the single turbo without the transition is well absorbed. The transition between the twins is yet another element that made the car difficult to drive. the transition unsettled the car because it had created slight weight tranfers (rear to front and back to rear again) as the rate of acceleration changed.
Lastly, this past weekend was hot and the water temps climbed accordingly during the runs. After a 60 sec run the water would go from 180f to 210f. It was within all within a manageable range, but I was overly concerned after a recent cooling system failure in another car. In two weeks the car will be at the DC ProSolo where you run four 30sec laps back to back without a chance to wet the i/c or radiator. I will see how it manages. Times like that will make me wish the water injection system still worked. I still have no idea why it crapped out.
In general, the car is an absolute monster! At the Meadowlands last friday the car ran fastest time of day and was a real blast to drive.
The car tore out of every turn with little turbo lag - granted the course was fairly open with no real pinch points. In general, the car now rotates perfectly with some throttle application mid corner and at corner exit. This has much more to do with gearing than the turbos.
In the past, throttle application at corner exit would slowly shift weight off the front tires. The rate at which the car would build RPM took too long. By the time the car built torque at the rear wheels it would already be understeering. Only then would the torque begin to rotate the car. By then it was too late. Corner exit was spent juggling initial understeer to subsequent oversteer. As a result, I felt the car was not compliant and difficult to drive. Now, the gears make the rear wheels slip just enough to rotate the car before the weight moves to the rear (adding grip). The rotation is managable. A slight lift will resettle the rear.
The turbo lag is a little greater now than with the old turbo, however, the consistency of the single turbo without the transition is well absorbed. The transition between the twins is yet another element that made the car difficult to drive. the transition unsettled the car because it had created slight weight tranfers (rear to front and back to rear again) as the rate of acceleration changed.
Lastly, this past weekend was hot and the water temps climbed accordingly during the runs. After a 60 sec run the water would go from 180f to 210f. It was within all within a manageable range, but I was overly concerned after a recent cooling system failure in another car. In two weeks the car will be at the DC ProSolo where you run four 30sec laps back to back without a chance to wet the i/c or radiator. I will see how it manages. Times like that will make me wish the water injection system still worked. I still have no idea why it crapped out.
Update:
HKS Single Turbo Kit is Installed incl.
HKS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifold
HKS Wastegate with 10 psi spring
HKS Downpipe custom wrapped
Turbo XS BOV
Also, the car for got a *new* diff off a low miles automatic FD, rebuilt with new seals and shorter final drive gears, 4.777 at KDR Performance. The diff went back on with new Pettit Race Differential Bushings replace my worn oem ones.
The fresh KDR tune was assisted by a MAC 3 Way Solenoid Valve electronic boost controller. As usual the dyno brought out the slip in my clutch, so the car was tuned in 3rd gear. It made 356 whp and ~300 ft*lbs at 1 Bar of pressure. The 850cc X4 injectors worked just fine and ran at ~85% peak duties. A GM 3 Bar MAP sensor will help dial in some additional power later but for now, the car is a monster regardless.
Lastly, the car got a new set of race wheels and tires. Now it's on 18x10 CCW C10's with 295/30/18 Hoosier A6's.
HKS Single Turbo Kit is Installed incl.
HKS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifold
HKS Wastegate with 10 psi spring
HKS Downpipe custom wrapped
Turbo XS BOV
Also, the car for got a *new* diff off a low miles automatic FD, rebuilt with new seals and shorter final drive gears, 4.777 at KDR Performance. The diff went back on with new Pettit Race Differential Bushings replace my worn oem ones.
The fresh KDR tune was assisted by a MAC 3 Way Solenoid Valve electronic boost controller. As usual the dyno brought out the slip in my clutch, so the car was tuned in 3rd gear. It made 356 whp and ~300 ft*lbs at 1 Bar of pressure. The 850cc X4 injectors worked just fine and ran at ~85% peak duties. A GM 3 Bar MAP sensor will help dial in some additional power later but for now, the car is a monster regardless.
Lastly, the car got a new set of race wheels and tires. Now it's on 18x10 CCW C10's with 295/30/18 Hoosier A6's.
Secondly, the differential bushings are Rotary Performance Solid Race Diff Bushings, not Pettit.
Lastly, I found out the compressor was upgraded with a 60 Trim wheel (vs the original 57 Trim found in the original FD HKS single turbo).
Last week I brought the car over to KDR for a couple of items:
1. Install GM 3 Bar Map sensor and rescale PFC
2. Press-in a set of Super Now offset lower control arm bushings.
3. Reinforce upper control arm mounting tabs
Had it aligned shortly after and got -3.5* front camber (probably can go up to 4+ now at full negative). Zero'ed out the toe all around and set rear camber at -2.5*. Caster was lost as a result of the bushing upgrade, coming down to 3.7* however the car reacted very well to the change in front camber. Last Sunday the car ran meadowlands autox with MSNE and front grip was noticeably improved. Ease of rotation allowed for much smoother, higher speed, driving though the tight stuff. The tire temps measured immediately upon pulling off the track reinforced the whole set up was working. The outside front Hoosier A6 tire would be about 10* hotter on the inside of the tire versus the outside.
Also, I had the car out at Lime Rock Park today and yesterday with NASA-TT. I ran TTS Friday and TTU today just trying to stay where there were enough drivers for tire contingency (3+). I didn't win either day and wasted a lot of Hoosier in the process of trying. Oh well. My best lap time over both days was a 1:02.3 seconds. That was good enough to beat a 1997 Porsche 911 Turbo but not good enough to best his paddock neighbor's Porshce GT3 Cup racer's 59.XXX. Good time. Happy to be home safe.
1. Install GM 3 Bar Map sensor and rescale PFC
2. Press-in a set of Super Now offset lower control arm bushings.
3. Reinforce upper control arm mounting tabs
Had it aligned shortly after and got -3.5* front camber (probably can go up to 4+ now at full negative). Zero'ed out the toe all around and set rear camber at -2.5*. Caster was lost as a result of the bushing upgrade, coming down to 3.7* however the car reacted very well to the change in front camber. Last Sunday the car ran meadowlands autox with MSNE and front grip was noticeably improved. Ease of rotation allowed for much smoother, higher speed, driving though the tight stuff. The tire temps measured immediately upon pulling off the track reinforced the whole set up was working. The outside front Hoosier A6 tire would be about 10* hotter on the inside of the tire versus the outside.
Also, I had the car out at Lime Rock Park today and yesterday with NASA-TT. I ran TTS Friday and TTU today just trying to stay where there were enough drivers for tire contingency (3+). I didn't win either day and wasted a lot of Hoosier in the process of trying. Oh well. My best lap time over both days was a 1:02.3 seconds. That was good enough to beat a 1997 Porsche 911 Turbo but not good enough to best his paddock neighbor's Porshce GT3 Cup racer's 59.XXX. Good time. Happy to be home safe.
Also, I had the car out at Lime Rock Park today and yesterday with NASA-TT. I ran TTS Friday and TTU today just trying to stay where there were enough drivers for tire contingency (3+). I didn't win either day and wasted a lot of Hoosier in the process of trying. Oh well. My best lap time over both days was a 1:02.3 seconds. That was good enough to beat a 1997 Porsche 911 Turbo but not good enough to best his paddock neighbor's Porshce GT3 Cup racer's 59.XXX. Good time. Happy to be home safe.
Haha. Those are my DD rcompound hankooks. Add good ground clearance for romping around manhattans crappy roads. 255/50/16. They are hella flush in there own special way.
For the SCCA Solo National Championships I will be "downsizing" my tire size to a 285/30/18. According to various sources a 285 has the same (if not larger) measurable width as my current 295/30/18. The smaller outter diameter will shorten my gears even further (not sure if that is a good thing or bad at this juncture, but chances are the national course will have one section requiring a shift to third gear) and lower my center of gravity. I generally don't like making such changes this close to nationals, but in the future this tire selection will allow me to lower my ride height. Considering the car was recently aligned and is corner balanced for 1/4 tank, I think I'll wait until after nationals to play with the ride heights.
