Hamfist Racing FD3S Build Thread: SCCA SSM / NASA TTS
07-17-08, 07:51 PM
#78
I just cant help myself -- I love your car and this awesome thread!!
I currently have an '05 RX8 and have been wanting an FD for a looong time, since before buying my '8.
As a noob, I have taken away quite a bit from this thread and just wanted to thank you and everyone else who has contributed to it!
I currently have an '05 RX8 and have been wanting an FD for a looong time, since before buying my '8.
As a noob, I have taken away quite a bit from this thread and just wanted to thank you and everyone else who has contributed to it!
07-30-08, 11:02 PM
#79
Just got back from KDR. Installed 850cc injectors, Stage 1 Water injection, and a Deka 9 lbs battery. Tuned out to about 290whp without water injection. The the water was turned on over 10psi as a safety precaution.
Also, upon trouble shooting an annoying noise coming from the right rear it appeared that the muffler is hanging off the wrong hanger and the arm holding the muffler to the hanger is banging against the inside of the right rear fender/bumper connection. I'm ordering the appropriate hanger to fix this issue.
Dave also discovered the left rear caliper had its piston improperly pressed into the caliper damaging the caliper. I am ordering a replacement for this too.
All and all the car feels great! Pulls hard, especially in higher gears. I am not used to this. The car jmps over 100mph in no time. Brakes still suck but now I know what the problem is there. Hopefully I get a chance to throw on the R-comps before the weekend so I can autox it for the first time. It would also help if I could get the bar on before the race too.
Next on the agenda:
-Coilovers
-Alignment.
Also, upon trouble shooting an annoying noise coming from the right rear it appeared that the muffler is hanging off the wrong hanger and the arm holding the muffler to the hanger is banging against the inside of the right rear fender/bumper connection. I'm ordering the appropriate hanger to fix this issue.
Dave also discovered the left rear caliper had its piston improperly pressed into the caliper damaging the caliper. I am ordering a replacement for this too.
All and all the car feels great! Pulls hard, especially in higher gears. I am not used to this. The car jmps over 100mph in no time. Brakes still suck but now I know what the problem is there. Hopefully I get a chance to throw on the R-comps before the weekend so I can autox it for the first time. It would also help if I could get the bar on before the race too.
Next on the agenda:
-Coilovers
-Alignment.
07-31-08, 12:38 AM
#80
Good find. keep up the good work.
i know you have exp in autoXing but IMHO, use street tires on the FD for a while.
R compound tires on the FD behave like no body's business, especially with light suspension mods, and they are less forgiving than street tires as you know.
the FD isn't very forgiving when you mess up either.
i know you have exp in autoXing but IMHO, use street tires on the FD for a while.
R compound tires on the FD behave like no body's business, especially with light suspension mods, and they are less forgiving than street tires as you know.
the FD isn't very forgiving when you mess up either.
07-31-08, 07:41 AM
#81
Good find. keep up the good work.
i know you have exp in autoXing but IMHO, use street tires on the FD for a while.
R compound tires on the FD behave like no body's business, especially with light suspension mods, and they are less forgiving than street tires as you know.
the FD isn't very forgiving when you mess up either.
i know you have exp in autoXing but IMHO, use street tires on the FD for a while.
R compound tires on the FD behave like no body's business, especially with light suspension mods, and they are less forgiving than street tires as you know.
the FD isn't very forgiving when you mess up either.
Also, I've been autoxing another FD lately while mine was being built and I took to it real well. Granted, it was running coilovers with 1600lbs/in springs.
08-04-08, 08:14 PM
#82
Installed:
-Toyo R888
-Racing Beat Front Sway Bar
-Mazdatrix Endlinks
-Widefoot Sway Bar Mounts
-Koni 8211 Racing Shocks & Racing Beat Springs (borrowed - Thanks Sandro!)
Other Updates:
-OEM IC Pipes can't hold 15psi. Now I'm looking around for a set of Samco Silicone IC plumbing or HKS/Greddy metal plumbing.
-Considering installing an external IC water sprayer. Check here for details an updates: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/attempt-help-mitigate-air-intake-temps-traffic-776945/
-Toyo R888
-Racing Beat Front Sway Bar
-Mazdatrix Endlinks
-Widefoot Sway Bar Mounts
-Koni 8211 Racing Shocks & Racing Beat Springs (borrowed - Thanks Sandro!)
Other Updates:
-OEM IC Pipes can't hold 15psi. Now I'm looking around for a set of Samco Silicone IC plumbing or HKS/Greddy metal plumbing.
-Considering installing an external IC water sprayer. Check here for details an updates: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/attempt-help-mitigate-air-intake-temps-traffic-776945/
08-07-08, 09:08 PM
#83
Is there anything else on my car that can't hold the 1-bar of pressure/boost? Perhaps the Y-Pipe? Anything?
After seeing the IC hose was a weak like I am a little worried there may be other areas of the system that can't hold the pressure. Honestly, I am a little surprised that no one was able to foresee the OEM IC pipes being a weak link.
After seeing the IC hose was a weak like I am a little worried there may be other areas of the system that can't hold the pressure. Honestly, I am a little surprised that no one was able to foresee the OEM IC pipes being a weak link.
08-10-08, 11:15 PM
#85
Update: Autox'ed 2x this weekend and I learned a lot. Overall I am very happy with the cars performance. Day 2 was my only problem. On my 1st run in the afternoon the intake bypass valve hose had slipped off the valve cause a drop in boost from 1 bar to 0.6 bar (yet somehow I managed to improve my time with less power :p ). I saw it right when I pulled into the grid. Had it back together in time for my next run no problem.
09-15-08, 09:52 AM
#89
This weekend the car was on Pocono Raceway East Course for an autox help by PCA. They slowed down the track significantly (increased average lap times by about 50%). The car drive great. I definitely held back and drove at about 9/10ths due to the higher speeds and more costly consequences.
Heat management became a big part of the weekend. The driver turnout was light and time between runs were as short as the drivers wanted them to be. I opted to cool down the intake pipes between runs with water and tried to keep IAT in the lower 50's (degree C) before heading out on course. By the time I finished a run (~100 seconds) IAT temps increased about 15 degrees leaving me in the mid 60's. At one point I decided to see if my I/C would be sufficient by itself. I disconnected the ground for the water injection pump and did a run. I found IAT increased by 20 degrees by the end of the run. It should be noted that these readings were not peaks, they were moments in time (start lap and end lap readings). I wouldn't think the water injection would have effected the IAT when rolling back to the paddock under vacuum (since the water injection only operates over 10psi).
Does the water injection cool the hard pipes (tootle body, UIM, etc.) in addition to the intake air?
This is the only reasoning I can think of as to why the IAT under vacuum after a run were lower w/ water injection.
Heat management became a big part of the weekend. The driver turnout was light and time between runs were as short as the drivers wanted them to be. I opted to cool down the intake pipes between runs with water and tried to keep IAT in the lower 50's (degree C) before heading out on course. By the time I finished a run (~100 seconds) IAT temps increased about 15 degrees leaving me in the mid 60's. At one point I decided to see if my I/C would be sufficient by itself. I disconnected the ground for the water injection pump and did a run. I found IAT increased by 20 degrees by the end of the run. It should be noted that these readings were not peaks, they were moments in time (start lap and end lap readings). I wouldn't think the water injection would have effected the IAT when rolling back to the paddock under vacuum (since the water injection only operates over 10psi).
Does the water injection cool the hard pipes (tootle body, UIM, etc.) in addition to the intake air?
This is the only reasoning I can think of as to why the IAT under vacuum after a run were lower w/ water injection.
09-15-08, 09:55 AM
#90
Oh yeah, and on the way home from Pocono I owned a Mitsushittie Evo on I-80 with drag numbers on his windows. Aerodynamics FTMFW! 
EDIT: Installed a silencer on the air pump to eliminate the Moo-ing noise below 2500 rpms.
EDIT: Installed a silencer on the air pump to eliminate the Moo-ing noise below 2500 rpms.
Last edited by s1mpsons; 09-15-08 at 10:05 AM.
09-15-08, 11:04 AM
#91
Alignment specs:
.................Camber/Toe/Caster......................Camber/Toe/Caster
Front Left... -3.10 / 0.03 out / 5 ......Front Right -3.10 / 0.03 out / 5
Rear Left.... -2.00 / 0.00 / na ..........Rear Right -2.00 / 0.00 / na
.................Camber/Toe/Caster......................Camber/Toe/Caster
Front Left... -3.10 / 0.03 out / 5 ......Front Right -3.10 / 0.03 out / 5
Rear Left.... -2.00 / 0.00 / na ..........Rear Right -2.00 / 0.00 / na
11-03-08, 11:52 PM
#97
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Just saw this linked from IWSTi. Sweet car. I am very very jealous 
My friend Neal (su_maverick I think?) runs an LS1 RX7 not to far from you, Northern NJ I think.
My friend Neal (su_maverick I think?) runs an LS1 RX7 not to far from you, Northern NJ I think.
11-04-08, 10:50 PM
#98
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That Evo will probably be running on its stock engine long after you're into your next rebuild.I own an Evo and an FD; ask me which one is currently running?