s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Charlie. I pmed Rishie. He suggested 17x9 45mm with 255x40x17. I think I would be very happy with that set up, but I changed my mind regarding timing. At this point I don't think it makes sense upgrade my wheel and tire combo.

I am now thinking about just mounting some R-comps (Victoracers, Toyo RA1, Nitto NT01 in 245/45/16) to the stock wheels. They are all capable autox r-compounds and reasonably safe if I get caught in the rain provide I drive appropriately. I would plan to be in my STi if rain is on the horizon.

With regard to the competitiveness of the car, I plan on running the car with Motorsports NorthEast. There is no class that disallows r-comps, so an r-comp is definitely necessary to be competitive. Additionally, if I run SCCA with the car I am destine for SM2 because of the radiator. R-Comps are a must there too. i realize they are not very wide compared to what people with 17/18" can run, but I am having a hard time finding a tire in 255/40/16.

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

RX7Club,

Am I playing with fire here? The car has a removed pre-cat, catback exhaust, and apexi intakes. The fuel system, ECU, and fuel management are UNTOUCHED.

If I throw on an intercooler and tune the APEXi AVC-R boost controller to a steady 10 PSI (and smoothed out the 10:8:10 pattern to a straight 10PSI), am I risking engine knock (aka a blown motor)?

Please fill me in gurus. Thanks!

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

If you are able to keep boost levels to stock and no creep/spike because of the increased flow, you should be okay. An intercooler made my boost go up about a psi, but since you are controlling boost you should be fine.

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

What about my proposed straight 10PSI boost. Without the 8PSI taper, would my fuel automatically adjust for that part of the RPM range? I am afraid it might not recognize the new boost pattern and only provide fuel for 8PSI. Should I be worried?

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

ive been running about 11 psi for 2 years on stock ecu and i've been fine, without the pattern.

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

Anyone else getting away with it?

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

Here is what PFS said about my setup when I asked if they can tune my AVC-R

"Hi Jake,

Adding an Apex-i AVC-R will not change the dip in the boost as the
secondary turbo comes on.

You currently have too many mods for the stock ECU tuning.

I would recommend adding an Apex-i Power FC to your setup instead. It does
an excellent job of controlling the boost and will also let you tune your
car for your current or future mods. We sell the Apex-i Power FC 1400.00
This includes the Power FC, Commander, installation, and dyno tuning.

thanks,
Ray"

So some sort of EM is necessary to manage my set up. I guess a PFC is appropriate. Does anyone think this is over kill? I want to play it safe here, but if a avc-r is sufficient I don't want to drop $1400 for no reason.

Also, if I switch to an PFC, I would I need to keep the AVC-R?

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

Okay, so tonight I had my first mechanical problem with my RX7. I don't have much for you'll yet, but I'll describe the situation:

Superbowl Sunday (approx. 2 weeks ago) I drove me car gently to my friends house and back, probably 4 miles total round trip. Last weekend I wanted to go for a drive, so I started her up and let her warm up for about 15 minutes in the driveway. After about 15 minutes the car was iced over by a freak snow blasting. I went back outside to shut the car off. Since the car had only been idling, I thought it would make sense to do one or two 4K revs just to clear the system. Then I waited another minute idling and shut off the car. Now tonight, I went to start her back up and it wouldn't. The car would crank/turn-over once and then stop. I tried 3 times total. Same thing happened each time. One crank and then nothing. It was 28 degree F and dry tonight. I am hoping the weather is to blame and she will start up once it warms up outside.

What are your thoughts RX7Club?

I'm thinking/hoping it's just the uber-coldness. I wouldn't have thought the cold could have killed a new battery like that though. If it happens again I'm doing a push start.

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

I tried in warmer weather today, Nothing. I tried jump starting it, Nothing. I tried a 15 mph 1st gear push start, Nothing. I tried a 15 mph 2nd gear push start, Nothing. It doesn't sound like it's even turning over. Is it likely that the motor is flooded? What should I do?

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

Just to clarify, when I go to crank the car it doesn't turn over. The car clicks once and makes a sound like it is TRYING to turnover. But it definitely is not turning over.

After some research it sounds like I could have one of 4 potential problems.

1. Blown EGI/Fuel/Spark Fuse - check and replace
2. Bad ignition switch connection - clean as per DaleClark's writeup
3. Flooded Motor/Plugs - replace/clean plugs
4. Bad fuel pump connection - check and repair
5. Blown Apex Seal - compression check

Somebody out there have any suggestions?

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

Okay. So I have done the following:

1. Checked the fuses, battery power/voltage (jumped it too), and starter voltage. Everything seemed good and with 12.4v.

2. I cleaned the ignition switch as per DaleClark's write up.

4. More push starting yielded NO turning of the motor.

5. It can't be the clutch switch because the loud click I hear when I go to start it seems to be coming from the starter (it's making an effort, but almost seems like it's stuck). This sound is not made when I try to start it without pressing in the clutch.

6. I pulled the soaked spark plugs. I can't force the fuel out of the motor if the motor won't crank.

So now I am stuck. I left the plugs out and now I need to figure out a way to get it cranking so i can deflood and replace the plugs. I plan on:

-Checking the anti-theft relay in the in driver side kick panel (but I doubt that will do it since it sounds like the starter is attempting to spin).

-Putting the car in reverse and pushing the car back and forth to try an break the stuck starter free

-Tapping the starter with a hammer (apparently that may have worked for member FDNewbie)

I need more suggestions!!!!!!!!! Please help. Anyone from Long Island want to check out the car with me and see what you think?

Smokey The Talon

iTrader: (33)

wow, i'm sorry to see that you're having problems with your car already. I'm also sorry that nobody has replied to help you out.

From the way you describe it, it sounds like the starter is stuck (just clicks, can't roll the motor over manually). You may have to remove and/or replace the starter. I would have thought that trying to push start the car would have broken it loose though, so I'm kinda stumped on that one.

You said that the plugs were soaked when you took them out? You might try putting in new ones and trying to push start the car again.

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

I think it's pointless to reinstall clean plugs without turning the motor over to deflood with the plugs out first. I could theoretically do this now with the plugs out and trying a push start. My only concern is that the motor still won't turn. Is it possible to for my RX7 to be "Fuel Locked"? Is there such a thing?

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

Off topic from my current issue, but assuming I get my 7 back in line soon, I am going for a PFC tune in March with PFS. I will be uninstalling the AVC-R (and rely on the PFC to control boost) and installing an SMIC and a Walbro 255 Fuel Pump (to go along with the already-installed downpipe, apexi intakes, and RB catback).

What would be the appropriate level of boost to run? I want to be safe and powerful (but more importantly SAFE). Thanks!

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

Just ordered a 9 LBS Deka ETX12 battery for the car. I figured if I am gonna try replacing the battery, I may as well do it right

Smokey The Talon

iTrader: (33)

good call on the PFC, you'll be happy with it and it'll suit your mods well.

As for boost levels, generally it's the lower the safer, so 10 would be the most safe. As for upped boost levels, you'll want to talk to PFS about your fuel system and what they think it'd support. You can try having them up the boost when tuning it and watching your injector duty cycles, but I doubt they'd go over 12psi on the stock injectors.

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

I cleaned up the corroded terminals, put the car in reverse and rocked it back and forth. She cranked after that. Then I put the plugs in an started her right up. I suspect it was a poor battery terminal ground connection. Anyway, thanks for the help everyone. Sorry for blowing this a little out of proportion.

Now back to business, I am going with a PFC, walbro 255 fuel pump, SMIC I/C (PFS if I can get it to fit, otherwise I am going with ARC's true SMIC) and a PFS tune. Any suggestions out there regarding this setup.

twomucboost4u

iTrader: (9)

I think it was flooded next time pull the fuel relay up front turn it over a couple times untill it clears up then re install the fuel relay. Happened to me a couple times these engines get almost like a hydro lock reaction when theya re flooded.

As far as further mods stay away from the walboro fuel pump and go with a supra pump, as far as your SMIC set-up its only going to be as good as the duct you get for it, and as far and engine management dont mess around just drop the money on a PFC you dont really need a commander just get it tuned and leave it by someone reputable and enjoy.Im going to give you a list of upgrades since I havent read the whole thread and am not sure what you have yet. These should be all youll need for a daily driven FD.

Downpipe, MP resonated or not, CB System 3 inch minimum
Aluminum Radiator
Aluminum AST
Upgraded SMIC w/ Duct
Modified Stock Air Box to pick up cold air or Aftermarket intake
Ignition AMP (HKS Twin Power)
Aftermarket Grounding kit
Silicon Vacuum Kit
Replace coolant lines if your not sure of there condition ( turbo coolant lines, throttle coolant lines, and radiator coolant lines.)
Replace and relocate fuel filter
Fuel pump
PFC
Water temp gauge stock one is a dummy gauge by the time it gets high its too late

Thats all i can think of right now sounds like a lot but its all worth it and that will put you around 310WHP @ 12lbs hope that helps.

Chris

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

What is the reasoning behind recommending a supra fuel pump versus a walbro 255 pump?

twomucboost4u

iTrader: (9)

Supra pump I believe to be more reliable i have seen two cars blow motor in the past 6 months because of fuel pump failure, they both had walboros. If your really want to be safe run dual fuel pumps, I know I will be on my next set-up. Good luck

Chris

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

What is the best way to ensure my car will have enough fuel for these mods. Is it enough to just put in a PFC and Fuel Pump or do I need more fuel mods?

Thanks for the input.

-Jake

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

Is there any reason why I would need TWO denso fuel pumps? I seems like I got a two-4-one deal! Was this a shipping error in my favor?

Also, is Denso part # 950-0155 the same as a nippondenso supraTT pump? I ordered nippondenso supra pump and received 2 denso part # 950-0155. What gives.

ALNY93R1

iTrader: (12)

One supra pump will cover your mods, and buying a PFC would be a good thing.

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

I just got my PFC from japan. Need to get tuned now. I'm scheduled with KDR for Mar 20th.

Would it be SAFE to drop in the denso supraTT pump, the ARC SMIC, and the PFC and drive the car like that for 3 hours to get tuned? Could I detonate like that? What mods is the off-the-shelf PFC map tuned for?

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

Arrived today!! Can anyone verify if its safe to run this setup (New PFC, ARC SMIC, Supra Fuel Pump, Downpipe, Intakes, and CatBack) without a tune (to drive my car on the way to get tuned)?