FD Rebuild from "Down Under" (with pics)
And the motor was rebuilt before as an "R" is visible on the rotor. You will really need to check all the specs on this motor, it seems to have had a rought life in the land of rice.
I put the "R" on the rear rotor as I disassembled it.
I thought it looked pretty good since I believe it is the original engine that has lasted for 133,000 kms!
I don't believe the car has had a hard life, it is just well used. It was totally stock when I bought it and cleaning it out found interesting titbits to suggest a mature owner.
The hard life begins when I get it built and on the race track ;-)
I thought it looked pretty good since I believe it is the original engine that has lasted for 133,000 kms!
I don't believe the car has had a hard life, it is just well used. It was totally stock when I bought it and cleaning it out found interesting titbits to suggest a mature owner.
The hard life begins when I get it built and on the race track ;-)
Just want to say good luck, props to you for DIY--much respect. I wish I had the workspace, time, and tools to do such a job.
BTW, what does the upper half of the green thing in your avatar look like
BTW, what does the upper half of the green thing in your avatar look like
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Originally Posted by wjp005
Hey, by the way you guys, I keep getting comments about my Avatar.......would people like me to post a high res version?
...goose bumps
OK sorry there has been no updates for a while guys, I’ve been busy cleaning parts, organizing and waiting for new / replacement parts, and getting organized for re-assembly. Oh yeah, and I think Christmas was in there somewhere!
Some acquired pieces include:
Set of secondhand good condition housings AUD$780
So here’s most of my goodies, and where my Christmas bonus went! AUD$2121
I decided to use all OEM parts including all seals, o-rings, springs, gaskets and bearings. Not pictured are my new stationary gear and rotor gear bearings (they are being installed by a rotary specialist at the moment, I pressed the old ones out but didn’t want to risk buggering up the new ones installing them). I also purchased a good condition secondhand “B” weight rotor for AUD$200 (my only usable one was an “A”). Also needed was a new oil pump chain (mine had ˝” slack, out of tolerance) and a replacement power steering pump pulley as I chipped mine getting it off.
I decided to replace the clutch plate while I had it out. The old one wasn’t too bad, probably only 40% worn, but it’s one less thing I’ll need to do in the future. The new one is slightly larger diameter, about 1/2” bigger overall (new plate on the left)
Now we all know that red goes faster so my intermediate and end housings were treated to a new paint job with high temp enamel paint.
A quick coat of paint turned out to be quite a big job carefully masking off…………
Then unwrapping to reveal the nicely colored results:
I’m not sure how much of these you will end up being able to see once the engine is back in though!!!
My next point of action before I begin the re-assembly is to slightly cleanup my exhaust ports using my dead “donor” housings to practice on with the dremel first. If anyone has some good info for mild porting the exhaust including pics I would appreciate it.
Future plans also include:
• Relocation of battery using solid state item from a high amp “jump start” pack
• Installation of isolator switch
• Installation of temp probe to oil pan for my oil temp gauge
• Installation of fuel pressure gauge
• Removal of double throttle
• Removal of AWS
• Replacement of AST
• Intake upgrade to Apexi
• Injector service
• Fuel filter replacement
• Rats nest silicone hose replacement
Stay tuned for more updates soon…….
Some acquired pieces include:
Set of secondhand good condition housings AUD$780
So here’s most of my goodies, and where my Christmas bonus went! AUD$2121
I decided to use all OEM parts including all seals, o-rings, springs, gaskets and bearings. Not pictured are my new stationary gear and rotor gear bearings (they are being installed by a rotary specialist at the moment, I pressed the old ones out but didn’t want to risk buggering up the new ones installing them). I also purchased a good condition secondhand “B” weight rotor for AUD$200 (my only usable one was an “A”). Also needed was a new oil pump chain (mine had ˝” slack, out of tolerance) and a replacement power steering pump pulley as I chipped mine getting it off.
I decided to replace the clutch plate while I had it out. The old one wasn’t too bad, probably only 40% worn, but it’s one less thing I’ll need to do in the future. The new one is slightly larger diameter, about 1/2” bigger overall (new plate on the left)
Now we all know that red goes faster so my intermediate and end housings were treated to a new paint job with high temp enamel paint.
A quick coat of paint turned out to be quite a big job carefully masking off…………
Then unwrapping to reveal the nicely colored results:
I’m not sure how much of these you will end up being able to see once the engine is back in though!!!
My next point of action before I begin the re-assembly is to slightly cleanup my exhaust ports using my dead “donor” housings to practice on with the dremel first. If anyone has some good info for mild porting the exhaust including pics I would appreciate it.
Future plans also include:
• Relocation of battery using solid state item from a high amp “jump start” pack
• Installation of isolator switch
• Installation of temp probe to oil pan for my oil temp gauge
• Installation of fuel pressure gauge
• Removal of double throttle
• Removal of AWS
• Replacement of AST
• Intake upgrade to Apexi
• Injector service
• Fuel filter replacement
• Rats nest silicone hose replacement
Stay tuned for more updates soon…….
RX7 lover
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 3
From: UK
~Looking hot dude, i like the colour.
And you want be able to see any of that once you get the engine back in im afraid unless you look hard! I painted mine black for heat dissipation but red might show up more - who knows?
Looks good though dude, how long til shes done you thik?
And you want be able to see any of that once you get the engine back in im afraid unless you look hard! I painted mine black for heat dissipation but red might show up more - who knows?
Looks good though dude, how long til shes done you thik?
Dunno, I'm not gonna rush it, but the sooner the better. There's a hill climb on in a few weeks that I'd like to make.
The main event I'm getting it ready for is a supersprint at a track in Sydney which is scheduled for March, but I need the engine broken in by then........
The main event I'm getting it ready for is a supersprint at a track in Sydney which is scheduled for March, but I need the engine broken in by then........
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 0
From: Grovetown, Ga
i don't know what i like better, the build or the butt... nice thread! good choice on the engine color, too. i'm still trying to decide what color i'm going to do mine. keep up the good work!
Time for an update:
I have installed new rotor and stationary gear bearings. I had a machine shop turn up some billet with a tolerance of 0.2mm inside and outside.
Here’s the special press tools I had machined. Stat gear on the left, rotor on the right (obviously)
Stationary gears. Note new bearings installed.
This shows how the machined billet tool has a step to press in new bearings. They worked great. At first I tried to shrink fit the bearings, but with no luck then reverted to just pressing them in as shown in the manual. I used a set square to transfer the aligning tab (& locking bolt hole on stat gears) marks to the back edge of the bearing so they lined up perfectly once installed.
Here’s the billet for the rotor bearing, sorry about the lack of focus, I only have a cheap camera!
I have also silver soldered a fitting to the oil pan to facilitate an oil temp gauge so I can keep an eye this when racing
Of course I will be repairing the black paint around the area where I sanded it back
On the right you can see the new oil temp probe.
I also purchased a new, larger diameter water pump pulley as I will be running without the air pump. This allows the belt more surface area to contact with the water pump. The larger pulley also underdrives the water pump which gives slightly more horsepower and stops cavitation at high RPM
The new pulley on the left, quite a bit larger than OEM.
Actually, the OEM fits inside it.
Stay tuned for more updates soon!!
Getting close to re-assembly time!
I have installed new rotor and stationary gear bearings. I had a machine shop turn up some billet with a tolerance of 0.2mm inside and outside.
Here’s the special press tools I had machined. Stat gear on the left, rotor on the right (obviously)
Stationary gears. Note new bearings installed.
This shows how the machined billet tool has a step to press in new bearings. They worked great. At first I tried to shrink fit the bearings, but with no luck then reverted to just pressing them in as shown in the manual. I used a set square to transfer the aligning tab (& locking bolt hole on stat gears) marks to the back edge of the bearing so they lined up perfectly once installed.
Here’s the billet for the rotor bearing, sorry about the lack of focus, I only have a cheap camera!
I have also silver soldered a fitting to the oil pan to facilitate an oil temp gauge so I can keep an eye this when racing
Of course I will be repairing the black paint around the area where I sanded it back
On the right you can see the new oil temp probe.
I also purchased a new, larger diameter water pump pulley as I will be running without the air pump. This allows the belt more surface area to contact with the water pump. The larger pulley also underdrives the water pump which gives slightly more horsepower and stops cavitation at high RPM
The new pulley on the left, quite a bit larger than OEM.
Actually, the OEM fits inside it.
Stay tuned for more updates soon!!
Getting close to re-assembly time!
Forgot to mention I got the underdrive water pump pulley from : http://www.xtremerotaries.com/ at a cost of AUD$55 + shipping.
They have some pretty wild turbo PP engines on their website, check 'em out!
They have some pretty wild turbo PP engines on their website, check 'em out!
UPDATE TIME!!
I had a go at porting my exhaust housings and I thought I’d share it with some pics.
When looking through from the exhaust end of the housings, I noticed that the port could be significantly enlarged before it would be the same size and shape as the steel insert.
I started off on a throw away housing (possible future novelty fish tank). I used a dremel tool with a cutting head first, then used a sanding wheel, and finally I used some polish compound and a buffing wheel to really get the edges of the port smooth.
I highly recommend practicing on an old housing first, as I took me a while to get a feel for the tools, plus the correct angles to hold it at and how much pressure to apply.
So here’s a look at the standard port
And here’s once I’ve finished porting. Ported on the left, standard on the right. You can see how much material can be taken out! I found it necessary to work both from the inside of the housing, and through the exhaust port to end up with a nice even port.
Here’s a close up showing the enlarged port. You can see that it now is the same size as the steel insert.
Here’s the standard port size, significantly smaller.
Here’s the result from the inside after cutting, but before sanding and polishing. Standard is furtherest away for comparison to show how much I enlarged it. I also restored (after the photo) the slight chamfer the standard housings have on the inside.
And here’s the modified port after polishing. I also slightly flared the port. I haven’t cleaned all the polishing compound away from the port yet as you can see.
I took my time and the results came out great. I’m sure it will be a fairly big improvement over standard.
I have also modified my eccentric shaft oil jets as per Bruce’s DVD and here’s a picture:
I epoxied the no 200 weber jets in, and won’t be re-installing the ***** and springs for increased oil flow to the rotor bearings. I also pressed the front pressure regulator down to increase the oil pressure, and shimmed out the front eccentric shaft bolt by epoxing in a plug ground down to size which effectively disables the oil bypass thermostat (as per Bruce’s guidance on his DVD)
I’m hoping to begin my re-assembly in the next day or two so stay tuned. I just finished clearancing my side seals and corner seals to .002” this evening using a file and some 600 wet & dry sand paper to carefully work them down to tolerance. Looking forward to re-assembly time not too far away now…………..remember I still haven’t driven my FD yet!!! Itching to get it on the track!!!!
Oh, I also got some GAB coilovers for my car to adjust bump settings and ride height on the track. Now I just have to try and source some adjusting spanners……..anyone know of some going cheap? Do all Tein / Cusco / GAB / etc coilovers use the same adjusting spanners? Does anyone know?
I had a go at porting my exhaust housings and I thought I’d share it with some pics.
When looking through from the exhaust end of the housings, I noticed that the port could be significantly enlarged before it would be the same size and shape as the steel insert.
I started off on a throw away housing (possible future novelty fish tank). I used a dremel tool with a cutting head first, then used a sanding wheel, and finally I used some polish compound and a buffing wheel to really get the edges of the port smooth.
I highly recommend practicing on an old housing first, as I took me a while to get a feel for the tools, plus the correct angles to hold it at and how much pressure to apply.
So here’s a look at the standard port
And here’s once I’ve finished porting. Ported on the left, standard on the right. You can see how much material can be taken out! I found it necessary to work both from the inside of the housing, and through the exhaust port to end up with a nice even port.
Here’s a close up showing the enlarged port. You can see that it now is the same size as the steel insert.
Here’s the standard port size, significantly smaller.
Here’s the result from the inside after cutting, but before sanding and polishing. Standard is furtherest away for comparison to show how much I enlarged it. I also restored (after the photo) the slight chamfer the standard housings have on the inside.
And here’s the modified port after polishing. I also slightly flared the port. I haven’t cleaned all the polishing compound away from the port yet as you can see.
I took my time and the results came out great. I’m sure it will be a fairly big improvement over standard.
I have also modified my eccentric shaft oil jets as per Bruce’s DVD and here’s a picture:
I epoxied the no 200 weber jets in, and won’t be re-installing the ***** and springs for increased oil flow to the rotor bearings. I also pressed the front pressure regulator down to increase the oil pressure, and shimmed out the front eccentric shaft bolt by epoxing in a plug ground down to size which effectively disables the oil bypass thermostat (as per Bruce’s guidance on his DVD)
I’m hoping to begin my re-assembly in the next day or two so stay tuned. I just finished clearancing my side seals and corner seals to .002” this evening using a file and some 600 wet & dry sand paper to carefully work them down to tolerance. Looking forward to re-assembly time not too far away now…………..remember I still haven’t driven my FD yet!!! Itching to get it on the track!!!!
Oh, I also got some GAB coilovers for my car to adjust bump settings and ride height on the track. Now I just have to try and source some adjusting spanners……..anyone know of some going cheap? Do all Tein / Cusco / GAB / etc coilovers use the same adjusting spanners? Does anyone know?
Are you sure it's daring......or is it stupid???
Yes car will be dynoed, I'll probably end up getting a PFC since they seem nice and easy. Although I have a local Microtech guy who swears by his stuff, puts them on rotaries all the time.
Dyno results will be posted.
Thanks for the encouragement guys, I wouldn't be tackling this job if it weren't for this forum which is an awesome resource (and Bruce's DVD which I highly recommend for all the DIYers)
Yes car will be dynoed, I'll probably end up getting a PFC since they seem nice and easy. Although I have a local Microtech guy who swears by his stuff, puts them on rotaries all the time.
Dyno results will be posted.
Thanks for the encouragement guys, I wouldn't be tackling this job if it weren't for this forum which is an awesome resource (and Bruce's DVD which I highly recommend for all the DIYers)
Long block assembly happened today.
I was pretty happy with how everything went together.
Here’s some pictures………..
Progress will be fast over the next couple of weeks as I want to get the majority of the job done before I go into hospital on 3/20 to have my wisdom teeth out.
I’ll post more updates as they come to hand…
By the way, I need an aluminum replacement AST, if anyone has one they’d like to send to Australia, please PM me.
I was pretty happy with how everything went together.
Here’s some pictures………..
Progress will be fast over the next couple of weeks as I want to get the majority of the job done before I go into hospital on 3/20 to have my wisdom teeth out.
I’ll post more updates as they come to hand…
By the way, I need an aluminum replacement AST, if anyone has one they’d like to send to Australia, please PM me.
Full Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Brisbane Australia
Hi,
I've linked here from your thread on Ausrotary.
Good effort. Your situation sounds very similar to mine. I also have a very young daughter that I need to be careful not to wake. I've rebuilt my S5 13BT mounted in a S2 RX7, no rotary experience using that same instructional video you have! My engine suffered a less dramatic failure due to corrosion. Got around 20k on it since rebuild and microtech install, running beautifully!
Brings a lot of satisfaction. I had a few thoughts while reading your thread. You've already done the assembly but anyway.....
Oil seal rings and their springs. I reused the springs and needed to bend the tips of a couple of the springs to stop the carrier from popping out of the rotor groove. I felt that having the oil seals stay in the side of the rotor unaided reduced side load and wear.
The oil pump chain. I replaced the chain based on Bruce's deflection measurement. Don't know what you found, but I had a bit of trouble getting a new chain, seemed not a lot of people replace the chains. There was bugger all difference in the deflection of the new chain compared to the old one.
Post rebuild and run-in, I've had ongoing problems with unnecessarily high water temps under some conditions (i've got a massive thread on Ausrotor on it - search on my username if interested). Upshot is use the factory heatshields around turbo and exhaust manifold, and check that the timing marks on the factory pully are correct. Mine appeard to be 5 deg retarded causing high exhaust temps, glowing the turbo all the time. I had it checked by a shop, comparing ot to a known good setup.
Arran
I've linked here from your thread on Ausrotary.
Good effort. Your situation sounds very similar to mine. I also have a very young daughter that I need to be careful not to wake. I've rebuilt my S5 13BT mounted in a S2 RX7, no rotary experience using that same instructional video you have! My engine suffered a less dramatic failure due to corrosion. Got around 20k on it since rebuild and microtech install, running beautifully!
Brings a lot of satisfaction. I had a few thoughts while reading your thread. You've already done the assembly but anyway.....
Oil seal rings and their springs. I reused the springs and needed to bend the tips of a couple of the springs to stop the carrier from popping out of the rotor groove. I felt that having the oil seals stay in the side of the rotor unaided reduced side load and wear.
The oil pump chain. I replaced the chain based on Bruce's deflection measurement. Don't know what you found, but I had a bit of trouble getting a new chain, seemed not a lot of people replace the chains. There was bugger all difference in the deflection of the new chain compared to the old one.
Post rebuild and run-in, I've had ongoing problems with unnecessarily high water temps under some conditions (i've got a massive thread on Ausrotor on it - search on my username if interested). Upshot is use the factory heatshields around turbo and exhaust manifold, and check that the timing marks on the factory pully are correct. Mine appeard to be 5 deg retarded causing high exhaust temps, glowing the turbo all the time. I had it checked by a shop, comparing ot to a known good setup.
Arran
Hi Arran,
Thanks for the comments and tips mate. I'll keep it all in mind as I finish off the job. I used all new springs so they held in the rotors nicely. I had no trouble getting the oil pump chain. I got all my gear from Joe @ Mazbiz (ausrotary) he's a top bloke. I think you're right about the slack, it seems the same as my old one!
Thanks for the tips re: water temps. I was planning on installing all the OEM heat shields. As the car will only be used for the track, I will be cutting some vent holes in the rear of the bonnet and putting some mesh in to hopefully let some of the heat out I will be generating on the track! :-)
Thanks for the comments and tips mate. I'll keep it all in mind as I finish off the job. I used all new springs so they held in the rotors nicely. I had no trouble getting the oil pump chain. I got all my gear from Joe @ Mazbiz (ausrotary) he's a top bloke. I think you're right about the slack, it seems the same as my old one!
Thanks for the tips re: water temps. I was planning on installing all the OEM heat shields. As the car will only be used for the track, I will be cutting some vent holes in the rear of the bonnet and putting some mesh in to hopefully let some of the heat out I will be generating on the track! :-)
