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So cool to see you do more custom stuff. Good job on the mods. I miss my MS02's. I regret selling them. Congrats on the new 7. Now that your expanding your fabrication skills, your gonna see you can make something out of anything.......then the hoarding begins ..... hahahahahaha
Refinished some MS-01LM wheels. Quite the improvement. Still need to decide what to do about the center nuts. I have new caps, and need to decide on style black lettering or chrome), but either need to polish the nuts or paint them gloss black. Can’t powder coat because the threads are molded in and are plastic… leaning towards gloss black.
Before, some were worse than this. This one is actually an extra, bought it and didn’t realize someone had cut off the threads where the center cap screws too. So basically useless unless running without center caps. After, with black letters in the center decal, unfinished center nut I thought this would look better than the brass “Rays” coin. Chrome lettering in the center decal. Unfinished center nut. The set, staggered front and rear. I’m also doing a non staggered set. Expensive nuts. Luckily someone on eBay in the UK 3D prints replicas, I might buy a few and try painting them. The molded in plastic threads. Impossible to remove without destroying the. They are molded on both sides of a flange in the nut. And they melt really easy (I thought maybe they were glued and tried some heat, didn’t go well. If anyone knows a good place for chrome plating old bolts let me know. The local place I tried wanted $5 per piece. I would have liked to reuse these Rays branded fasteners, but it was a lot cheaper to buy new non branded ones. They still look good in the pics above.
I checked with them first as I send a lot of stuff to them. They don't do chrome, needs to be super durable for wheel hardware given brake dust and cleaners used.
Thanks. Although I'm a little envious of your OEM lip kit. They seem to be impossible to find.
I noticed one of your threads, did you ever buy the English translated manual from Travis? I've reached out in email, forum, facebook but can't get ahold of him. If you have a copy, I will buy it from you if you are willing to sell it.
Thanks. Although I'm a little envious of your OEM lip kit. They seem to be impossible to find.
I noticed one of your threads, did you ever buy the English translated manual from Travis? I've reached out in email, forum, facebook but can't get ahold of him. If you have a copy, I will buy it from you if you are willing to sell it.
They do come up...but very rarely. I saw you had posted on the JC Cosmo group on FB. Do a search for the Cosmo Owners Group. It's a lot more active, and has a TON of archived info on these cars. A guy named Howard is the admin, and he has to approve the request, but it's totally worth jumping through the hoops. It's by far the best FB group out of all the car groups I'm in.
Unfortunately, I sat on my hands when Travis was selling them, figuring I'd be able to just grab one anytime....then of course when I actually needed one, he had just disappeared. A lot of people have asked about him, but no one really seems to know where he went.
Finally finished MS-01LM rims. Got tires and was going to put them on the cosmo, but then didn’t think the black rims would look good on the blue cosmo, I think it needs silver rims. So I will try the MS-02 on the cosmo instead (why not make a weird car more weird) and put the MS-01 on the FD and changed the whole attitude of the car.
Also picked up an AutoExe exhaust for the cosmo. Can’t believe I found one. also only had one key for the cosmo, so found a Formawerx FD key and they engraved it with the Eunos logo.
and I haven’t been neglecting the FDs. Refinished locket sets and swapped over to new handles.
20B AutoExe exhaust Formawerx FD Legend key with Eunos engraving Before After
1) installing the latches and cables
2) cleaning and greasing the window cables
3) cleaned the rubber tracks
4) peeled 20year old tint off the windows and soaked and scraped the adhesive off. Now just need to find the screws that attach the window to the tracks and wait for PTFE spay to come so I can spray the rubber grooves the window slides in.
5) new weather stripping
also, it matters which way the door is assembled. Latch, then metal window tracks, then rubber, then window motor mechanism. Latch has to go in first or you will find yourself removing everything haha.
Latch and cables bolted in Cables on Cleaned and lubed Regulator/motor installed Washed window guides. Still need to spray the track with Teflon 20 year old tint New belt molding Soaking with simple green and dawn dish soap Adhesive turned to mush
A few updates. Turblown manifolds have arrived. Just waiting on DBW throttle bodies and then the cold side piping can be made.
started getting the coils planned out, they clear the manifold as I’m DBW and blocking off the IAC which gives room back in this area. And then need to figure out a clean spot for the fuel pressure regulator. Once all those things are in final spot, will start making the pipes and plumbing.
EFR twin car with upper and lower turblown manifolds. Good news is that the LIM is as slim as possible and helps with clearance in the downpipe area. BNR twins car, upper turblown intake only, as I already had a xcessive lower. Coils are where the cruise control was on this one as I have too much going on the block for the twin turbo control here. Trying to figure out a clean spot for the FPR, I really want it near the rear of the engine vs hanging in front. Also thought about a rail mounted regulator, I know they work, but I’m just nervous about higher risk of fuel leak. Coils fit, although I need to adjust the oil fill neck to clear the front leading coil. Clearance under LIM for coils. Remember, always install your strut bar when making the layout for accessories on the engine, can easily end up hitting and being either unusable or forcing re-work on whatever you just made. Will be just enough clearance with strut bar and oil fill neck once I move the fill neck to clear the coil. Then I’ll build the charge pipe to clear this nicely.
Trying to figure out a clean spot for the FPR, I really want it near the rear of the engine vs hanging in front. Also thought about a rail mounted regulator, I know they work, but I’m just nervous about higher risk of fuel leak.
^Curious about that - why do you think a rail mounted FPR has a higher risk of leaks? As compared to what, mounting it to the firewall or elsewhere off of the engine block to isolate the fuel connection from vibration?
Yeah. I haven't heard of issues with the rail mounted regulators, but I just don't like the thought of hanging weight off the AN fitting. In OEM applications they rail mount it but do it by bolting on a flange. And I get it is a bit ironic given the recall on FDs haha.
AutoExe exhaust on the cosmo. Midpipes didn’t fit, so this is just the mufflers on stock midpipes. But turns out the front cat is already gone. So that explains why the idle is messed up once the car warms up, wants to stall too easy because the airpump isn’t hooked up to a cat. so that gives me a reason to get an ECU haha.
and 4 rotor arrived today.
Midpipes and one stock midpipe for comparison Stock muffler and autoexe. Notice the stock exhaust has boost activated valving. Way back from 1990. Angle of midpipes don’t line up to mufflers. Have not figured out how this is possible. Midpipes fit the front pipe and hanger in the middle of the car perfectly, so it was definitely for a cosmo. But there is just no way the mufflers will bolt to the flang. The mufflers fit perfectly on the stock hangers. And if I take them off the hangers and bolt them to the midpipe they would point down. So I just put them on the stock midpipes. Comparison of the angles. I thought maybe I just had right and left midpipes switched. But sadly not the case. Autoexe muffler bolted to stock midpipe. Fits fine. Installed and first time filling up with gas. Found a Mazdaspeed air filter when removing the air box and adding the autoexe carbon intake. 4 rotor time!!!!
AutoExe exhaust on the cosmo. Midpipes didn’t fit, so this is just the mufflers on stock midpipes. But turns out the front cat is already gone. So that explains why the idle is messed up once the car warms up, wants to stall too easy because the airpump isn’t hooked up to a cat. so that gives me a reason to get an ECU haha.
and 4 rotor arrived today.
Midpipes and one stock midpipe for comparison Stock muffler and autoexe. Notice the stock exhaust has boost activated valving. Way back from 1990. Angle of midpipes don’t line up to mufflers. Have not figured out how this is possible. Midpipes fit the front pipe and hanger in the middle of the car perfectly, so it was definitely for a cosmo. But there is just no way the mufflers will bolt to the flang. The mufflers fit perfectly on the stock hangers. And if I take them off the hangers and bolt them to the midpipe they would point down. So I just put them on the stock midpipes. Comparison of the angles. I thought maybe I just had right and left midpipes switched. But sadly not the case. Autoexe muffler bolted to stock midpipe. Fits fine. Installed and first time filling up with gas. Found a Mazdaspeed air filter when removing the air box and adding the autoexe carbon intake. 4 rotor time!!!!
Bro!!!! now a 4rotor!!!
You got all the toys! So jealous!
A few updates. Slow progress on the efr twin turbo car. For the first time in 4ish years it has some interior back in it.
got rid of the tan carpet and put a black one in. It’s aftermarket but fit decently, I also took the foam backing off the OEM carpet and reused it.
Epowersteering installed. This was a chain reaction, I needed to get the car moveable so I could trailer it to a fabricator to have the downpipe, exhaust, and intake piping done. So I needed to put the manual rack on to avoid pumping left over fluid out when turning the wheels, and a steering column, which required having the dash in to mount it. And I’m also trying to free up space so while I was out it I installed the speaker adapters and speakers. A few more boxes down.
Also mocked up the intake, DBW, oil fill neck, and coils, important to mock it up so I can make sure the intake pipe ends up in a good spot.
Dash in E power steering bolted up Speakers, eBay mounts, and rubber baffles that go into the door and around the speaker Tweeters with triangle pods from Drakelore Maval manual rack All new window and door mouldings and weather stripping Turblown intake, DBW, outlaw garage DBW to vibrant HD flange adapter, RaceOnly oil fillerr and oil filter block, one of the coils doesn’t fit due to clearance with the oil fill neck, so will extend the mounting points later. Just enough clearance, only works if using DBW, wouldn’t work if manual throttle due to IAC mounting here. Clears the Mazdaspeed strut bar
