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A little more progress. Got the charge harness sheet metal bracket that goes over top of the AC/power steering bracket back from coating, so could finally bolt on the AC and Power Steering. Went on smoothly. JP3 brackets for the RX8 compressor fit perfect.
Got all that on and saw how bad the front body harness was looking and how bad all the fan relays were. I have a haltech R3 going in so no need for the fan relays anymore. Decided to delete them and clean up the harness. Now I can get the radiator and intercooler in. Ended up going a bit further down the rabbit hole than I intended, but luckily it’s all back together and all the wires are in good shape. of course I forgot to take pictures of it when the wiring was fully disassembled and how good it looked after retaking it all before I clipped it back in.
Power steering and brackets
AC and Power Steering
Staring to tear into it. It was all disconnected due to the engine bay paint job
Crusty fan relay harness
Mess Took it all the way apart and washed everything
Wrapped back up and clipped in Cleaned up all the wire looms, removed all tape and added fresh tape after cleaning the looms
Still need to clean good old X-02 a bit more. It was coated with crud bad.
Getting closer. It’s nice to have most of the body harness back where it’s supposed to be. I was procrastinating on it, but actually went smoothly.
Also switched to the FFE trigger wheel. I know stock is sufficient, but I went to out on the AC and PS bracket and noticed there is no way to feed the wire harness to the crank sensors after. So with the FFE Hall effect sensor, I could leave a pigtail up to the top of the engine, so I can do the engine harness last after everything else is all together.
OEM trigger, checking timing mark to make sure I understand how the engine TDC is relative to the FFE trigger (FFE trigger wheel is marked but I wanted to be sure)
Getting this stud out took forever. Thought it was going to break which would have been bad. A 5 minute job turned into 20. But that’s shorter than breaking it. tapped the hole after to clean the threads and luckily it was fine.
Mocked up
Pigtail on top of engine so I can attach the AC and Powersteering bracket and add the wire harness later. Raychem loom, and routed as far away from the alternator as possible.
Pressure tank, on the Banzai Racing bracket. However I forgot the Xcessive LIM moves everything forward. So took a little bending of the bracket to get it to fit. Didn’t even crack the powder coat!
I never understand why they don’t put shielding on the dang trigger wiring. 🤔
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If we're talking about a VR (variable reluctance) trigger sensor, you're right, it should be connected with a twisted pair shielded shielded cable. But from what I see in the picture (3 wires), TwinCharged opted for the Hall effect sensor. Hall effect sensors (and their associated cabling) are inherently much less susceptible to EM interference, so the shielded cable is not necessary.
The rest of the cable that connects to it will be shielded. They say in the package with the sensor that anything longer than the pigtail should be shielded.
If we're talking about a VR (variable reluctance) trigger sensor, you're right, it should be connected with a twisted pair shielded shielded cable. But from what I see in the picture (3 wires), TwinCharged opted for the Hall effect sensor. Hall effect sensors (and their associated cabling) are inherently much less susceptible to EM interference, so the shielded cable is not necessary.
except that all the Hall sensor kit mfrs state that it should be used that I’ve ever seen.
Thanks for the bump. I’ll definitely have a shielded wire running up to the pigtail of the sensor and keep it away from the power lines and alternator.
I’ve been slacking on the cars due to being busy at work and on the house. But I really need to get going on this one due to a R1 one incoming. At least that car runs and I can enjoy it.
Just got the Koyo Radiator, Blitz FMIC and RX8 condenser mocked up. Using JP3 adapters for the radiator to condenser, fits great but I need to make a bracket to tip the radiator up further to provide clearance for the driver side AC line (it hits the back of the intercooler). I also need to slot the radiator brackets near the sway bar to shift it over to the passenger side about 1/2 inch. I got the JP3 battery mount for the ATX20 Antigravity battery, but there is a bolt on the radiator that just touches the side of the battery. Should be an easy adjustment.
RX8 condensor mock-up with JP3 brackets. Bits good. I have an older Koyo (it came in the trunk of the silver car brand new, so might be over 10 years old. So it’s about 54mm thick vs 48mm and I need to drill out a hole to fit the bracket. I can’t tell if it’s N Flow or not, probably not as I would assume it would be marked.
Blitz FMIC in place.
jP3 batter bracket, with the adapter to fit the antigravity ATX20 instead of the PC680 Odyssey.
Had to hollow out the holes for the antigravity adapter tray. Looks like there was a revision, I got one for each car and on one the holes were slotted to fit better. I made them bigger so I could also use M6 hardware instead of M5 that it came with. Kind of stinks because I had to spray paint over nice powder coat. At least no one can see it. I wish they were made out of aluminum.
Comes with nice adapter for the fuse box to mount directly to the bositive terminal on the battery.
Ready for a battery.
Also got one for the blue twin turbo efr DCT car.
Only have one battery right now for mock-up purposes, no sense in having them sitting around collecting dust.
New R1 arrived this morning. Thanks to Cohbra for making an awesome car. I’ve only driven around the neighborhood so far but I really like it. Will be fun to drive this while I finish the other cars.
I am going to try very hard not to modify this car much from what it is. But a set of wheels will be going on, I will add electric power steering, and change the exhaust to something quieter. I need to get underneath it, it might just need a midpipe. It’s got a PFSupercars cat back, so I’d like to keep that. And a relay for click click start haha.
RX8 condensor mock-up with JP3 brackets. Bits good. I have an older Koyo (it came in the trunk of the silver car brand new, so might be over 10 years old. So it’s about 54mm thick vs 48mm and I need to drill out a hole to fit the bracket. I can’t tell if it’s N Flow or not, probably not as I would assume it would be marked.
Out of curiosity, why did you not go with the RaceOnly pulley on the alternator?
Out of curiosity, why did you not go with the RaceOnly pulley on the alternator?
Good eye. The alternator is just sitting there for now as I work out the plumbing for everything. That's an old one the prior owner had painted and gave me in a box of parts for the blue car (got that one with a blown engine with all the accessories in process of being restored/painted. I'll be going with a high output alternator and have the matching pulley for it.
Good eye. The alternator is just sitting there for now as I work out the plumbing for everything. That's an old one the prior owner had painted and gave me in a box of parts for the blue car (got that one with a blown engine with all the accessories in process of being restored/painted. I'll be going with a high output alternator and have the matching pulley for it.
Thanks for the explanation. Glad to hear this was just used for mock-up purposes. I just got this pulley kit, and I was also planning on doing either an Advance or ARD alternator in the future. I was worried his might indicate that the RaceOnly may not work with one of them or something along those lines. I'll still be doing a bit more research into the subject, as both Advance and ARD state that their pulley is beneficial, but that will be more of a deep dive when the time comes.
I thought I’d be in for an easy job today, swapping a straight midpipe to a resonated / catted pipe from my other car. I was wrong. First, took out the straight midpipe, and found the O2 sensor is in it, the one I’m swapping in had no provision for this. So I tried my hand at welding a bung in. Not pretty, but I got it done.
Then I went to install it, and the flanges didn’t line up well. The cat back flange was angled slightly up vs the mid-pipe, so when you put them together it seals on the bottom but not the top.m. I’m guessing that 10 years ago when I had the cat put on the borla midpipe, it got cocked a little. I tried to bend the hangers of the cat back to tilt it but that just made the muffler tip hit the rear bumper. I also tried to heat the cat back and bend the pipe to fix the angle, that didn’t work, apparently 3” stainless is pretty strong haha. I really wanted to keep the PFSupercars cat back, but I have a Greddy exhaust I was saving for another car so I figured I’d try it to see if the angle was different. It was a little better, but still had the same issue. I have remflex gaskets, and the downpipe has a flex joint on the end, so that gave enough play for everything to sinch up. It might be putting a little stress on the flex joint though, we’ll see how long it lasts. I changed the oil. Tomorrow I need to install a relay for the click click start. Then I’ll fire it up to see what it sounds like. Should be a lot quieter.
I didn’t get a picture, but the borla resonator with cat cleaned up nicely with a little elblow grease. Has been sitting since 2012 Drilled the hole, luckily I have a few bungs on hand. Not the prettiest, but first time I’ve ever done it. I found it hard to get into a comfortable position Greddy exhaust, I’ve never heard one of these before, hopefully sounds good with the midpipe. The PFS exhaust with straight midpipe was just too loud for where I live.
Also picked this up for the T04Z, the housing is super close the the front secondary injector. But of course, the housing has about 3/8” clearance with the LiM, so going to be a fight to squeeze this in.
tires put on. Continental sport 02. 225/45/17 in front (8” rim), 255/40/17 in rear (9” rim). Unfortunately they used straight valve stems and you can’t even check tire pressure without taking the wheel off or turning enough to get to the rear of the wheel. I need to take them back and have 90 degree angle stems put on.
Oh man, I'm connecting the dots. I came up to you immediately at 7's day in Seattle to compliment you on the MS02 wheels as soon as you parked. Car looked really good!
Oh man, I'm connecting the dots. I came up to you immediately at 7's day in Seattle to compliment you on the MS02 wheels as soon as you parked. Car looked really good!
ahh, now I know who you are. Great meeting you, and thanks for the great picture.
trying to make some progress on the silver BNR twins car today. Modifying the Y-pipe.
does anyone know what this yellow hose is for that goes from the Y Pipe nipple to the LIM? I don’t have that LIM port anymore because of the excessive LIM.
The bright yellow one that goes from the bottom right of the picture (y pipe nipple) to the top (LIM nipple)
Made new mounts for the radiator to shift it toward the passenger side frame rail to make room for battery clearance. I don’t want chances of anything poking the lithium ion battery.
one thing I’m stuck on is the sakebomb sway bar mounts. They have a lower extension piece for stock ride height cars. My car is not going to be extremely low, so it’d be nice to run these and put the radiator mounting bracket on the bottom as that would lower the radiator and give me more clearance for piping up top near the hood. But, if I don’t run them, then the radiator mount will be where it’s shown in the pictures, which gives less clearance up top but I think still enough. I have a question out to sakebomb to see when they recommend using the extension block vs not.
Made new radiator brackets instead of using the blitz ones from the intercooler kit, I could drop them 1.5” or so if I put them on the bottom of the sway bar bracket extension. But not sure if that is wise yet give the car will not be at stock ride height, so the extension blocks might not be there.
Need to bend it a few more degrees
Just enough clearance between the hood and radiator, but I’d prefer the radiator to be a bit lower.
Radiator has to lean up a bit due to clearance for the fitting for AC that goes here.
This little bolt will be switched to a button head for more clearance, but as is now after shifting the radiator a little toward the passenger rail, it no longer hits the battery.
Welded a bung on the radiator, noticed green corrosion when cleaning it out. Radiator is new, but sat in the trunk since 2009ish, hatch leaked, so water must have gotten in and sat. Hopefully it doesn’t leak.
ABS ring mod for MK60e5. Need a magnetic ring so I can use the directional bmw sensors and mk60 without messing with trying to program it.
