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I have decided to post some updates.
I have spent a good chunk of september trying to sort out the car with countless problems, while visiting Cyprus
The AIM pdm manual unfortunately does not explain all the details how to wire this thing properly. I have been part of their beta test program and i understand that these are the early stages of the AIM PDM32 but i learned more studying the Motec PDM30 manual instead of the AIM.
Now that everything is sorted, the AIM is fantastic, everything works as they should BUT i will admit i did initially regret not getting the MOTEC from the get-go.
The AIM customer support in the US is next to none! I worked closely with this guy named Cameron at AIM in California. he helped me troubleshoot everything; very often spending several hours on the phone. The 10 hour time difference did not help ! as i often had to be working on the car as late as 4 am. Seriously sleep deprived for the most part of the 3 weeks , i think the car is as good as it will be for now. I left Cyprus yesterday to return to the US.
@JhnRx7 was nice enough to join me to this trip half way around the globe to get the world class Rennatuned treatment for a third time. This time on a haltech Elite 2500 though
As previously mentioned. i opted out for a Borgwarner EFR9280 with the EWG 1.05 turbine housing.
The car made 514ft/lb torque on a very strict mustang dyno that i have always figured that the hp reads way too low as i suspect there is an issue with the hp calculation. it made that power on 28lb of boost. we have decided to stop there since the motor is not studded/reinforced. Not bad considering that the engine has not been rebuilt in the last 10 years. car pulls great vacuum (-7.5psi at ~900rpm) given the age. It been at the track many times and it is a "daily" driven car. the daily is in quotes as i don't live there so its driven daily when i am there . Up until 2015 i was traveling to europe a lot more than now. so in the last 10 years i have managed to put ~20k miles on the car.
So to keep this post short and post additional updates tomorrow, John and I hit the track twice (he was there for 5 days) and John captured this beautiful picture as I was battling a super fast M4 at the track
I went a little wild with the aero. The car feels like its on rails . the Good Year Supercar 3R is a seriously sticky tire. The m4 ended up being a little faster at the turn entry because I had a few issues- including pretty much no brakes due to a bad ABS control module, which was later replaced.
Epic!
Forgot how much I missed reading about your mods and enhancements
Thanks dude. This is greatly appreciated!!!! at least some people appreciate my effort to make some unique yet functional stuff for my track focused but street friendly fd
previously i had helped John with this GT wing design and manufacturing on his track car and we were discussing the effects of the GT wing even at slow speeds. The track i always go to is not a very fast track but it is very technical. I did not think that I could benefit from one but the data John provided made me think otherwise
my car is a street driven car. i have always thought that the GT-wings on street cars look ridiculous and If i was ever going to install one it would have to be a removeable without drilling extra holes.
without having a direction on how to attack this design, i figured let me start with some parts that are already made, and then sort of adapt them into my car. The idea was to do this project for 2023
Alex Rodriguez was selling the Re-amemiya Gt wing uprights so i figured it was a good starting point. Use those uprights make adaptors that would mount on the existing 99spec wing holes , figure out the appropriate width of a GT wing that would work with this setup and call it a day
I didnt get too far with this project as this gt wing came up for sale on the Japanese yahoo auctions
According to the description, this is a one off gt wing made for an FD to be used at the world time attack. whether this is accurate or not I cant say. if I was designing a wing for a WTAC i wouldnt have mounted it on the trunk lid but at the chassis but that's beyond the point.
This is exactly what i was looking for in terms of mounting.
The wing is all carbon fiber (uprights/ end plates etc) and the mounts are some resin composite that appear to be very strong. what it is exactly, i cant tell.
The price was right.
so It looks ridiculous but if its for track use only, who cares
so here it is mounted
Your car is absolutely amazing. Reading through this entire build was truly inspiring. I just bought my FD a couple months ago. I now have some goals. And they are pretty darn high! Really appreciate all the time and effort you have out into updating this build and sharing everything.
Your car is absolutely amazing. Reading through this entire build was truly inspiring. I just bought my FD a couple months ago. I now have some goals. And they are pretty darn high! Really appreciate all the time and effort you have out into updating this build and sharing everything.
Thanks dude! greatly appreciated!!
I will keep posting some updates for some time, until the next time someone decides to call my stuff "All that glitter" LOL
For the people who know me in person, i am a faily large framed guy.
After my severe spinal injury/surgery i have gained quite a bit of weight and I have outgrown the TS-G seats. To my eyes, the TS-G (And obviously the RS-G) are by far the most beautiful seats and they fit in the fd cabin perfectly, while being a solid track seat choice.
After my long recovery i was able to lose a lot of that weight but i decided to get a new pair of seats anyway
i saw these seats in person a few years back at the RAVspec shop in long island NY before they closed down.
everything looked great on them except that green strip.
I like the small recaro logo, the fabric. I have grown to accept the green strip. I am not going to say i like it but whatever , it barely even shows
So i ended up getting these. They are the Limited edition Recaro pole position SL. Only 300 of them are available globally.
I have been wanting the recaro podiums since they first appeared online. I saw them in person shortly after getting these and i must say, i did regret getting these even though the podiums are so much more expensive. The recaro podiums are just GORGEOUS. So much nicer in person
International shipping is a KILLER so i had to improvise. so, here's the Special Packaging to take the seat on the plane with me
I happened to be there watching them loading and unloading them. The ground crew were very gentle to it. I cant say that they were very gentle to the bags
I ended up getting the Ronin speedworks seat mounts.
powder coated them black along with some other stuff
I installed the Advance 130A Alternator from Japan. and i was barely getting 12 volts at idle. so i decided to replace the underdrive pulley with a stock pulley and the voltage jumped to 13.5+
From the same picture you will see what looks like the shroud i had made in the past, with the main difference, that it is not!
This piece will be like a template to mount the FEED undertray so my fans will clear the undertray so they will be able to get all the air out
I did source one of the FEED undertrays for my car. it was used and slightly damaged but i figured since i am going to cut it up for the fans and the brake ducts i might aswell get the used one instead of a brand new one. I will say this though. The 3 piece undertray from Shine seemed to be the better approach. I did regret removing it but i should have done it a little better in terms of modifying.
So its all modified to clear the fans and also channel the air out. Its still a work in progress but here it is. The idea is for that panel (+ the rib shown in the previous post) so be installed in case this is not strong enough. It seems to be strong enough but unless mounted and tested i cant really tell
The initial plan was add naca ducts on each side for the brake ducts similar on what you see here . I cant say whether this is feasible until i get under the car with the undertray mounted . I was looking for a specific picture that gave me the inspiration as it was a specific undertray with the naca duct molded in the undertray but i cant find it so heres another one i found online for the sake of the illustration.
I ended up getting the APR naca ducts. The flange mount with the hole pattern was the most appealing. I ended up making a drilling/cutting jig and 3d printed it.
and speaking of fixtures/jigs i wanted to make a specific mount for the Izze racing tire temperature sensors
So to figure out how to mount them and and mount them properly according to the data Izze racing provided i decided to design a simplified flat bottom with the fd dimensions to figure how they will be mounted
so i made these templates that simulate the same angle and length as the sensors
the plan was to use those templates with the holes drilled on them and them pass a bolt through the undertray and bolt it down. i decided against this idea shortly after and i came up with this
a 2 piece design with the top bracket holes countersunk to clear the sensor lens along with steel hardware on the bottom plate for some additional reinforcement
some more design and manufacturing stuff before i get into the problems failures and frustrations of the latest trip.
I had Initially gotten a 4port solenoid for my boost control. I went with this solenoid setup purely for how clean the setup from FULL-RACE is but then I figured i could actually benefit from the 4port solenoid.
I liked the idea of the 4port solenoid since it will allow me to increase my max pressure 4x the spring pressure, as opposed to the 3port solenoid where you can increase the max pressure 2x the spring pressure
The idea was to use 10psi springs and use a max boost or around of 30psi so i can hit tight turns with 10-12psi of boost at WOT.
It all sounded great on paper. i was getting a strange behavior with the 4port.a couple of friends who used 4port solenoids in the past recommended to switch back to a 3port. it appears that the 4port is a major headache.
It kinda worked out because the car under 17psi feels pretty slow so even at the turns where i was anticipating to be using 10-12 i need closer to 17lb.
The springs were changed from the initial 10psi (if i recall) to the 14 psi springs
but then the mounting was a problem. I had reached out to FULL-RACE to see if they offered a 3 point solenoid mount much like their 4 port. To my surprise they told me it would only work with the 4 port and no similar product is offered for the 3-port. So i decided to try my luck and design something that could be beneficial to the community.
I would never copy someone else's part. They offer a 4 port mount, I might be offering the 3port mount . There's no reason to offer the same product. I might start up a website, "ALL-THAT-GLITTER FD PRODUCTS" LOL
i did not like how the FULL-RACE one mounted on. Its not a difficult installation but its a tight space, with a good chance of dropping the screws etc. I wanted a simplified version where the whole thing can be assembled before hand and using one screw to mount it on the turbo.
I am pretty pleased with how it came out. Initially 3d-printed for a test-fit and then aluminum
The side by side difference between the fullrace and my mount.
While my version is significantly thinner, it is actually stronger because i am using steel inserts as opposed to tapping the aluminum part.
I am using a 4mm pilot for alignment (as opposed to a screw)
Flush mounted hardware even though there's room for longer hardware. i figured to get the right length and make it look pretty
This was the initial fitting orientation that i thought made the most sense. made some changes
so yeah the whole thing is held by one single 10-32 screw. no drilling, no tapping no modifying . just bolts on
I have similarly mounted a MAC 'noid, and found the generic mount that comes with the one Sakebomb sells allowed me to mount similar to yours, although yours is a lot nicer. Mine sort of hangs there a little janky.
I have similarly mounted a MAC 'noid, and found the generic mount that comes with the one Sakebomb sells allowed me to mount similar to yours, although yours is a lot nicer. Mine sort of hangs there a little janky.
I had to go to the sakebomb website and see what you meant . i have never seen it before but i suppose that would work sort of.
with one hole to mount it though you do have a good chance of the whole thing moving/spinning. This is why i used that 4mm pilot so it lines up and it locks it in place.
I made a few extras, if you want one let me know
I will keep posting some updates for some time, until the next time someone decides to call my stuff "All that glitter" LOL
I wasnt being serious about not posting my updates even though i have seriously thought to delete this build thread a while ago but an administrator has convinced me otherwise.
The "All that glitter" story goes a while back where a thread was posted about the hks vmount. I have had that intercooler for several years, I was battling the issues that come with this kit, because the way HKS has mounted the oem fans on the radiator is just laughable. they hang so low, its an accident waiting to happen. Like the picture below
I felt it was appropriate to post a pretty detailed description of what testing i did over the years to come up with the solution that I came up.
I didnt need that thread to realize that people will not sit down and read the objective of a project and the outcome and understand what was done. While a few people, with the same problem, expressed some interest in getting a similar solution, a certain individual, who I will not name, with very limited knowledge of the technical aspect of things, who also appears to be incapable of comprehending the objective and the outcome, started criticizing my work.
The stock fans are more than adequate. Why would you want those enormous and unnecessary fans hanging below the bumper line? It'd better be a smooth track car and never have an off-track event to make those work. All that glitters...
When I saw the comment, I decided not to respond since it was over a year later . I didn't feel my solution was appreciated anyway and a friend had mentioned to me that I thread-jacked the original thread and if i wanted to I should have posted a new thread about it. So I decided to ask an administrator to delete all my posts related to my project from that thread.
I will admit I was annoyed at first with this guy's behavior but my solution works well so yeah I am not paying attention to people like that.
I have had several failures during this trip. One of the expected ones were the clutch. I had initially switched from the carbon single pro-spec clutch from carbonetics. When i installed that clutch on the car the goal was to be around the 400whp mark which that clutch would have been plenty. Things changed and i needed something a little more capable for the job. after going through 2 sets of the pro-spec carbon clutch i have decided to upgrade to the twin carbon kit from carbonetics. I never liked the converter of the carbonetics clutch. it gives you too much "freedom" to mess things up. The clutch felt fine at the dyno and at the track. it didn't feel like it wasn't disengaging but when I was doing power shifts from 3rd to 4th the clutch would slip. I knew I had to look into it but I didn't get the chance. and a couple of days later as i was waiting in traffic (with the clutch pressed) the car jumped. so overall here is the carnage after about 2 weeks of use.
the discs were also worn from 4mm to 3.2mm
I had a strong suspicion that the clutch wasnt going to last. I did mention this before but i kept an OS giken R2CD on standby.
I have to admit, while the carbonetics twin carbon felt great, pretty much like an oem clutch; the OS giken is just so much smoother. I had the Os giken STR in the past which they also felt pretty good but this one is just so much smoother.
For the longest time, my favorite clutch in terms of pedal feel was the triple carbon clutch i tried on David Hayes 20B (probably 12-13 years ago). I think the R2CD has come on top.
I did replace the ohlins PCV with a new revalved ohlins PCV with 18k and 16k spring rates. it was a rebuilt/revalved set from japan they looked perfect but the history is unknown.
I took for the car for inspection. The inspections in cyprus are pretty serious when it comes to suspension drive-train components. they do the suspension test, brakes test and overall bushings/pillow test. you can fail the inspection if these don't work as they should. as opposed to the NJ/NY inspections LOL.
After the suspension test the car did not feel right in the rear. it felt like one size was loose even though it passed the suspension test just fine.
I rang a friend of mine who has been heavily involved in the rally scene in Cyprus and we did work on several rally projects in the past. He builds custom suspension systems for any application. he has everything in stock. shock dyno etc and i was pretty shocked (pun intended) to see what a nice specialty shop he has put together. he took care of my ohlins suspension immediately. we were in and out within the hour.
we noticed that the clicker shaft was bent so it was spinning indefinitely. on the older ohlins pistons the clicker is external. on the newer ones it is built in.
So we ended up getting one shipped from italy a few days later
One of my biggest issues over there was the ABS. everything was wired it and everything seemed that it was working at least from the wiring stand-point. I took the car for the wheel alignment and after the alignment i went to try out the car . i locked up so bad and it felt like i was ice skating. I realized that something was seriously wrong right away.
I maintained the OEM diagnostic connector purely for the ABS system so if need be i can stick a diagnostic and try to trouble shoot the ABS if something is misbehaving . we moved the connector from the engine bay to where the pdm is.
Wheel speed sensor, right front had an "open or short circuit" fault code.
i did reset it and it went away however the ABS was not working.
so figuring out the japanese manuals for my model how to diagnose it
AT this point i wasnt sure if the ABS required a test bulb/resistor like the the S/L style alternators to make it work
There are 2 ABS lights according to the manual. One lights up for fault codes etc, and the other one lights up for low brake fluid level.(PIN E & F from mazda manual)
checking everything manually it appeared that i had a short circuit for the low brake fluid level.
I checked the lines, everything was fine
some odd 15 years ago i came across a spirit R that was badly damaged. and i took some parts from it. One of the things i decided to grab was the F146 ABS unit
the intention at the time was to buy an older FD and upgrade the brakes to the newer style.
That plan never came to fruition but i had bought the pump and i did pay a quite a bit to get it. so i would see it every year for the last 15 or so years, thinking "you are always buying these junk, wasting all this money and you have a whole warehouse of parts you will most likely never use".
When i suspected that the ABS control unit was bad i changed my tune. Even if it wasn't the ABS control unit, at least i would have eliminated this possibility.
the guy who helped me with the PDM told me, stick a light bulb from where the abs unit is sending the signal to the OEM dash and check the behavior. it seemed fine and the behavior did not change so the resistance you get from a regular bulb (much like the S/L alternators) was not needed.
So we then determined to add a second light bulb for the low brake fluid level. And it was constantly on . it would flash initially and then never turn off. Everything was pointing towards the control unit.
it was easy enough to replace the control unit and test it.
control unit has been replaced and the light bulb that was hooked up on the low brake fluid level light started giving fault codes as the car was stationary . nothing was picked up from the diagnostic
we took the car for a drive and everything cleared. abs works flawlessly now. I suspect that perhaps some inrush current damaged the unit. perhaps when the battery had died and we ended up using a battery booster
I was so happy that i had bought that ABS unit 15+ years ago afterall
A guy i know had a 2002 Mx5 and he happened to stop by. i figured to check whether the pump/control unit is the same since it is from the same generation.
It appears that the (01-05)MX5 and some early Rx8s are using the same control units . The pump is slightly different. So i picked a few spares from ebay now that i am back in the states
I had never planned/wired/programmed a pdm before this so obviously a lot of things i had to learn the hard way.
one of the things that i didn't know when i started this project and sort of learned when i came to finish it is that the resistance from the fuel level sensor is not compatible with the pdm (or any dash for that matter) So I had to figure out a way and make it work.
the Input that should be used for the fuel level sensor will need to behave like 0-5V sensor
so how the hell do you do that lol
I sourced the Iron Canyon motorsports fuel level sender (ICM website is down, (possibly down for good?)) (https://ironcanyonmotorsports.com/icm-fuel-sender/)
I tried to buy one from them. i reached out by phone and email and i havent heard back since then.
Luckily there was one for sale on ebay, brand new, generic 90Ω resistance.I had asked the seller for more information. for what car it was intended for.
I was told it was intended for an Mx5. So i am thinking that it should be the same as the fd or at least something very close.
Since i can set the scale of the fuel sender in any way i want through the pdm i figured i might aswell get it and fine tune it to suit my needs
the problem now is that i didnt account for a 5V line to go all the way back in the trunk.
I do have a few extra outputs in the engine bay/cabin/trunk just in case i needed to add extra stuff so that came in handy.
As a quick solution before i take the car apart and get a 5V line to the trunk,I got a 12V to 5V transformer to power the ICM and fed the output of the ICM to the PDM input for the fuel level as originally planned. yeah i know this doesnt belong in what i am doing but its only temporary
I borrowed a fuel pump hanger and hooked up the ICM to a multimeter to figure out the scale.
I am not sure whether the floating sending unit wasnt functioning as it should but my results varied significantly each time i would take measurements.
and the ICM provided scale did not match my readings.
to figure out the scale , i would go at the gas station. take a picture of the voltage (bottom right) of the fuel level
fill up
record how many liters i have added
and then take another picture of the voltage while the tank is full
much like how you see below
I did this several times during the 3 weeks i was there and i am pretty confident that i do have a scale figured out
I decided not to use the trailbrake TPMS system so i thought to get the haltech TPMS even though they are the identical products. same factory and everything.
I cant say i am very pleased with this style of TPMS systems but for something that costs around 200$ its not bad.
on the haltech data hub previously had connected the following
WB1
TC4
Aim PDM32
and obvioulsy the haltech elite itself
so 4 plugs were all occupied.
So i needed one more usable plug to use the the TPMS system
I will need an additional one in the future because i will end up installing one (or more) IO12s because i am planning to expand the data input on the haltech and I am debating whether i should make a supplemental harness to the existing one or have @C. Ludwig build a new one from scratch with everything implemented since the latest firewall connector from LMS-EFI can now utilize 64(i think) pins as opposed to the 55pin connector i have now.
well none the less, I decided to design a dual hub adaptor for the haltech bracket.
It came up pretty nice. it was made to be interchangeable between LHD and RHD
I had John test fit this as at the time my car was quite literally half way around the globe
fitment is pretty much spot on.
So i brought the the AIM data hub connector to the front. but i had to find a mounting solution for that ( see arrow)
the data hub pretty much landed there give the length of the cable and the routing.
While i would have preferred if it was in the middle of the car; i do have the extension cables from AIM so i can connect the temp sensor on the other size fairly easily
same story. 3d printed a prototype sample
it was slightly modified to make it a little prettier. powder coated it black and mounted it but took no pictures! shame!
This is going to be a long winded post. My findings MAY be an isolated event. Use my data/story/information as you see fit. But here's why the MazMart waterpump SUCKS and i will never get another one of this garbage.
I had left Cyprus at the end of September and while a huge step forward was made with all the upgrades one thing kept bugging me to the point that i have decided to return at the end of December and figure out the issue that kept on giving me a headache at the track but also on the street/cruising
Before i took the car apart to do the new turbo/manifold (intake and exhaust) pdm, haltech etc etc. the car was running perfectly fine. In terms of coolant, the car was running very cool, below what you expect as normal
My original setup dating several years back and no fan shroud, using a fluidyne radiator, i had installed a 68C degree thermostat from Billion.
The car would eventually reach ~105 C or so degrees towards the end of a 20 Minute session. I wouldn't exactly call it a failure back then but why not improve it.
fan shroud/ koyo N flow radiator was installed and all my (~105C) overheating issues were gone. The car would reach around 92C-93C and cruising was actually pretty cold (A/C on and highway driving-cruising) would get me to around 69C. I knew that thermostat had to be replaced because 69C is unnecessarily cold so the intention was to replaced it with a thermostat of around ~80 degrees
Fast forward to the end of 2020. I took the car apart. and replaced all cooling components. and since the dash was out, i figured i might as well inspect everything - (including the heater core) . Everything seemed fine. some minor surface rust on the pipes of the heater core but nothing that needed immediate attention. I ordered a brand new heater core from mazda to keep on standby as i have plans to strip the car completely to bare metal and repaint it for a fresh look I figured, while i am at it, why not "upgrade" to the MazMart water pump.
i mean at that point, the Radiator was only a couple of years old,
new heater pipes as i re-routed them to clear the turbo,
new thermostat etc
So why not change the water pump while i am there. The infamous "while i am there" moments...
There were no signs of the motor being hurt. But the car was pretty much sitting for 3 years, even though with no coolant and some frequent engine spins
First thing i noticed after we fired the car in September is that the coolant system wouldnt bleed easily.
I had eliminated the rear iron to waterpump housing heater line so i thought, ok it might need some extra time to bleed.
we hit the dyno with the several issues i had mentioned in previous posts and the car was not overheating per se but it was above my comfort level since previously everything was running perfectly fine.
And then we hit the track for track day 1.
We couldn't get a solid lap without the car jumping to 110C. I had brought the Lisle Funnel with me and after every session we would bleed the system and there was air in it . We were bleeding the system at the end of the every session (which it didnt last long) but everytime there was a minor improvement. At that point with not many options at the track, I removed the thermostat and to my surprise the coolant was still overheating with a fractional difference in coolant temperature.
Before track day 2, (which was the following day)
so i decided to re-install the heater tube i had previously eliminated. In my previous system, i had a 3/8" Line (-6AN fittings) but i only had available parts for a 1/4" line (-4AN fittings). I suppose a 1/4" hose is better than no hose for the sake of testing . And to my surprise that made no difference either.
I also had some other issues so trying to tackle everything at once wasn't easy.
so at this point i am trying to verify that my sensors are actually reading correctly. A comparison in readings with an infrared thermometer made me realize that unfortunately the sensor readings were correct as they were relatively close
After that I had left the country and its been bothering me ever since but at that point i am seriously sleep deprived and burnt out.
With the head clear after returning back to the states I was reading my datalogs only to realize that i had a lot of fluctuations in my coolant readings. Like bad coolant flow . So there's probably a clog somewhere. the radiator was installed back in 2017-2018 with the new shroud and everything, so it must be that. But what if it something as simple as a radiator cap ?
I loaded my luggage with all the possible suspect parts (part availability may be limited especially during the holidays in cyprus so i didnt want to risk not having the parts with me)
Brand new Koyo N Flow
a few radiator caps
all gaskets etc
i had a brand new OEM waterpump in Cyprus from years back
and flew to Cyprus determined that the cooling issue has to be resolved
I got hit by food poisoning on day 1 and Bronchitis on day 2 so i spent most of the days at home but the car is at my house so it was ok i guess
so I initially pressurized the cap on a coolant pressure test kit. No issues there
I pressurize the entire cooling system. No issues there either
So whats the easiest thing to change first for the sake of testing given my illness between the radiator and the waterpump even though both of them are actually pretty easy to replace. The Brand new MazMart waterpump; even though i was convinced that it cant be that; and why would it? its a brand new water pump...
so i pretty much drained the radiator to make the least mess possible, replaced the waterpump with the OEM one
I immediately noticed that my coolant temps kept dropping even after the fans would turn off at ~84 C degrees. my fans are set to be a temperature hysteresis firing the fans at 87C and turn them off when they drop to 84C.
so previously it would drop to about 83C-84C only for the fans to kick back on seconds later
So this time around, It would even drop to 77C while sitting idle and that looked promising.
So i kept bleeding the system only to realize that the system was fully bled about half to one hour later
I tried to bleed it the next day too, the system was perfectly bled
So i took the car for a ride and examine the behavior on a very steep incline towards the mountains (roads there are empty) and since everything seemed fine, i drove it like i stole it.
It never exceeded the 90C and cruising back, the coolant temp was at 69C degrees. Now these are the numbers i am used to seeing
So If you have the MazMart waterpump and you are suffering from strange cooling behavior. it is time to throw this garbage in the trash and never look back. Like i mentioned before. It may be an isolated event but thanks MazMart for ruining it for me!
I have previously installed the Re-medy Waterpump which is the same but i don't recall having issues; but this was good 15 years ago (or something like that)
The current pump looks perfectly fine in appearance. not sure if it was slipping at higher RPM.
09-26-22, 03:08 PM
