My coolingmist stage1 install
#1
My coolingmist stage1 install
Bought a coolingmist stage 1 kit over the winter, finally got around to taking pictures of my install
Coolingmist Kit: $200 shipped
150 psi pump
boost pressure switch (set to activate at 7psi)
380cc injector
50psi autometer pressure switch $30
some home depot 3/8" 90degree adapters to help with the tight install
a 1/4" grommet to hold the tube in place and extended to the rear bottom of the tank
everything hidden away, just the way I like it
the hose with the vacuum hose is in case I run out of water and the tank un-primes itself, since there's a 22psi check valve, the pump can't prime if there is air in the intake tube. So in order to prime the tank, I disconnect the 22psi check valve, connect the hose extender to the out tube and then feed it back into the tank and then run the pump, once the tank is primed, reconnect the check valve and then good to go
380cc injector
50psi autometer pressure switch, as it turns out, 150psi pumps destroy 100psi oil pressure gauges ha ha, thankfully it was only a $30 gauge so not that big a loss
I was also short one push-connector so had to use a barbed connector, then hold it in place using fuel injector hose and a screw-type clamp. Will swap this with a proper connector once I find a place to source them locally
Lesson learned, the autometer pressure switch is actually a normally-closed connector which means I had to use a relay to turn it into a normally-open signal for my meth indicator LED
lastly my test button and indicator LED. Originally I had the LED hooked up to the pump so it lit up every time the pump turned on, nice to know, but not nearly as useful information as the pressure switch.
When I hooked up the pressure switch for the first time and pushed the test button, the LED light turned on and stayed on :S which means that the line is holding at least 50psi, what does this mean? clogged injector!
So sure enough i took apart my injector and there was a little piece of black plastic that somehow got in there and clogged the injector, certainly doesn't take much to clog such a small hole.
results seem pretty good so far, though I haven't tested it thoroughly, knock readings previously were 40-80 from 0-13psi, now knock readings don't raise higher than whatever the max is when I turn on the car, which is 16 so far.
whats interesting also is now that I have meth firing, I'm not watching my AFR's like a hawk anymore, its nice to have that peace of mind.
my gas mileage is suffering from my lead foot though lol
Coolingmist Kit: $200 shipped
150 psi pump
boost pressure switch (set to activate at 7psi)
380cc injector
50psi autometer pressure switch $30
some home depot 3/8" 90degree adapters to help with the tight install
a 1/4" grommet to hold the tube in place and extended to the rear bottom of the tank
everything hidden away, just the way I like it
the hose with the vacuum hose is in case I run out of water and the tank un-primes itself, since there's a 22psi check valve, the pump can't prime if there is air in the intake tube. So in order to prime the tank, I disconnect the 22psi check valve, connect the hose extender to the out tube and then feed it back into the tank and then run the pump, once the tank is primed, reconnect the check valve and then good to go
380cc injector
50psi autometer pressure switch, as it turns out, 150psi pumps destroy 100psi oil pressure gauges ha ha, thankfully it was only a $30 gauge so not that big a loss
I was also short one push-connector so had to use a barbed connector, then hold it in place using fuel injector hose and a screw-type clamp. Will swap this with a proper connector once I find a place to source them locally
Lesson learned, the autometer pressure switch is actually a normally-closed connector which means I had to use a relay to turn it into a normally-open signal for my meth indicator LED
lastly my test button and indicator LED. Originally I had the LED hooked up to the pump so it lit up every time the pump turned on, nice to know, but not nearly as useful information as the pressure switch.
When I hooked up the pressure switch for the first time and pushed the test button, the LED light turned on and stayed on :S which means that the line is holding at least 50psi, what does this mean? clogged injector!
So sure enough i took apart my injector and there was a little piece of black plastic that somehow got in there and clogged the injector, certainly doesn't take much to clog such a small hole.
results seem pretty good so far, though I haven't tested it thoroughly, knock readings previously were 40-80 from 0-13psi, now knock readings don't raise higher than whatever the max is when I turn on the car, which is 16 so far.
whats interesting also is now that I have meth firing, I'm not watching my AFR's like a hawk anymore, its nice to have that peace of mind.
my gas mileage is suffering from my lead foot though lol
#3
yup, once its primed, no issues at all, just don't run out of water :P or else you need to disconnect the check valve in order to prime it again.
i'm missing a low-level sensor, I have a phobia of drilling a hole at the bottom of the tank and having it leak, but
oh, and I'm running 50/50
i'm missing a low-level sensor, I have a phobia of drilling a hole at the bottom of the tank and having it leak, but
oh, and I'm running 50/50
#4
looking for 82-83 corolla
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50/50 what? weight or volume there is a difference and if you get the right float level a leak isnt an issue such as the aquamist float with rubber seal grommet. not sure what coolingmist uses.
z
z
#6
I've raised my peak boost to about 13-14psi, but mostly the meth injection is just to increase my margin of safety so my engine isn't operating as close to its limits as it normally would
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