jkstill

iTrader: (11)

In response to a chide by Howard in one of the AI threads along the lines of "I see a lot of equipment being bought, but not much installed" I present an installed AI system.

Installed, but not yet performance tested. The only testing so far was to ensure that all systems operate.

This is a CoolingMist system - 150 PSI Shurflo pump, Varicool controller, check valve and supporting HW.

My goals for AI are somewhat modest, as I am using water only.

My FD has 350 RWHP. I'm not trying for 500, I just want to keep my motor in one piece.

The injector size is 380 CC/M, rated at 6 GPH at 150 PSI.

As seen in the pics:

The tank is mounted on an aluminum plate in the trunk area. The mounting options in the back of the FD are somewhat limited if you're trying to keep it simple (I was).

I'm using boost pressure only as input to the controller. The boost and AI lines attach to some bulkhead fittings next to the fuel pump access, and the lines pretty much follow the fuel lines into the engine bay.

You may notice the 90 degree plastic push-to-connect fitting on the check valve.
The kit comes with straight connectors, and that would have required a big loop in the hose.
The plastic connector will be replaced with a brass one that has been ordered from McMaster.

I had trouble with the push to connect fittings that came with the kit. They seemed like high quality pieces, but once the hose was inserted, it could not be removed. Maybe a defective batch. No such problems with the new ones.

The wiring follows the same path. In one of the pics you can see the $1.21 strain relief from ACE HW used to keep the wires in good shape.

The injector is upstream from the throttle body, next to the intake side BOV.

On the dash there is a level sensor LED, and a switch to power On/Off the AI system. The switch powers a relay that can be seen next to the injector. The power is wired into a previously unused slot in the adjacent fusebox.

This is a fairly simple setup, now I just need to seem some intake and exhaust temp data.

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

looks great man, did you screw the plate the tank sits on right into your floor? im getting ready to install the same kit in my FC but im not sure i want to screw into my floor but im not sure there is any other way to do it..also up front for the boost line did you get a rubber adapter to connect the line to the intake vacuum nipple? on there site it shows the kit comes with one but i never got one. did you?

bzwigart

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for sharing. I'm getting ready to install the same kit also. Any other tips for installation?

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

The plate is attached to the floor. I made use of 3 mounting points that are already in the car. One of them is the where a large bolt goes at the front left part of the spare tire well. I just used a double nutted stud in that spot.

I had to drill a hole for the front right corner, and used a rivnut and a spacer there.

It may actually be easier in an FC, I think the floor is flatter in the back.

The boost line is connected with a brass tee from McMaster:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/144/=1jtuqi

It was spliced into the vacuum line to the BOV.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

There's a metal channel between the rocker panel and the cover for the fuel and brake lines.

It's open at the back, and closed in the front. The cover for the fuel lines was too tight in that area to add wiring and hoses, so I used a dremel to open the front of that metal channel, and ran wires and hoses through it. Then used a large (1/2 inch I think ) split loom to fill the open channel, and route wires and hoses to the front section of the brake/fuel line cover, which does have enough room for the hoses and wires.

The wires were all run in split loom.
If you're doing alcohol you may want to consider something other than that plastic line for the fluids.

There were a couple of things I did to limit the number of wires needed to run to the dashboard. The level sensor is grounded on one side in the trunk, the wire from the other side of the sensor runs to the LED, and the power for the LED comes from a power source already wired up behind the dash.

I did the same thing for the power switch, so the switch and LED required only 2 wires into the cabin of the car.

The last time I wired something in the car, I ran extra wires into the cabin, so this time I just had use two of them. If you're going to run wires into the cabin anyway, run a few extras for future use.

bzwigart

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the info!

How does the low level float get installed into the tank?

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

It's installed by drilling a hole in the bottom of the tank and fitting it.

If you buy it with the tank, they will install it for you, which is what I did.

silverTRD

iTrader: (36)

any updates? at 380cc of water, how fast does the 1.5 gallons drain? did you ever get any numbers on ait or egt etc?...

WaachBack

iTrader: (21)

Itll last a long time. Im running 550cc and it lasts long, I mostly drive in boost too.

silverTRD

iTrader: (36)

thats good news. i'm gonig to get ai soon but not sure which one exactly. i like the simplicity of the new varicool with built in safety but not sure if its the best choice for road racing as i plan to run meth as well. i am capable of tuning the fjo which i know is an awesome setupbut i like simple, what can i say

chappy586

Here is my setup in the hatch. Made aluminum brackets that are bolted to the floor in a couple of factory holes/studs and then used nutserts for a couple more mounting points.