Adaptronic FFE hall sensor trigger kit
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Petrelleken (03-08-20)
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06-01-14, 08:21 PM
#8
Hi guys, in the factory wiring there is no 12V to the crank angle sensor, because Mazda uses reluctor sensors. They basically act like a generator and only generate voltage when the engine rotates.
The FFE trigger is a missing tooth type so we only need one sensor.
My recommendations:
1. If you're using the factory loom, you can use the other wire that goes to the 1 tooth pickup for 12V.
From factory, pin 4H on the ECU goes to ground on the sensors (green and red). So cut the plugs off and use the green wire as your ground for the Hall effect sensor. I don't know the wire color on your particular sensor, but if it's a GT101, it's the black wire.
Pin 4E is the CAS 1 input, which goes to the 12 tooth trigger positive (black wire) on the factory loom. So connect the black wire on the factory CAS plug to the Hall effect trigger output. This is black/white on the GT101 (middle wire).
Pin 4G is the CAS 2 input, which goes to the 1 tooth trigger positive (white wire) on the factory loom. We will use this for 12V supply. So remove this pin (4G) from the factory connector, and instead connect this wire to 12V (pin 1B). Then the white wire at the factory CAS plug goes to the Hall effect power supply (black/red wire on the GT101>
2. If you're using a wire-in, it's the same, just different colors.
2C/2D on the ECU goes into the white wire in the 4-core shielded cable, so use this as ground (black wire on the GT101)
2E on the ECU is our CAS input, which is the black internal wire in the 4-core shielded wire, so that becomes our signal (black/white wire on the GT101)
2G on the ECU is CAS2 input, which is the red wire. Remove this pin from the ECU plug housing, and connect this red wire to the +12V ignition positive (pin 1B, red wire), and then this becomes the power for the Hall effect sensor (black/red on the GT101).
You will also need to select "digital" as the input type for trigger 1 under triggering settings (now you can just click "unlock trigger settings" instead of having to do that trick in the video). By default it is "reluctor" for the factory sensor pickup. It needs to be "digital" for Hall effect sensors.
Cheers!
Andy
The FFE trigger is a missing tooth type so we only need one sensor.
My recommendations:
1. If you're using the factory loom, you can use the other wire that goes to the 1 tooth pickup for 12V.
From factory, pin 4H on the ECU goes to ground on the sensors (green and red). So cut the plugs off and use the green wire as your ground for the Hall effect sensor. I don't know the wire color on your particular sensor, but if it's a GT101, it's the black wire.
Pin 4E is the CAS 1 input, which goes to the 12 tooth trigger positive (black wire) on the factory loom. So connect the black wire on the factory CAS plug to the Hall effect trigger output. This is black/white on the GT101 (middle wire).
Pin 4G is the CAS 2 input, which goes to the 1 tooth trigger positive (white wire) on the factory loom. We will use this for 12V supply. So remove this pin (4G) from the factory connector, and instead connect this wire to 12V (pin 1B). Then the white wire at the factory CAS plug goes to the Hall effect power supply (black/red wire on the GT101>
2. If you're using a wire-in, it's the same, just different colors.
2C/2D on the ECU goes into the white wire in the 4-core shielded cable, so use this as ground (black wire on the GT101)
2E on the ECU is our CAS input, which is the black internal wire in the 4-core shielded wire, so that becomes our signal (black/white wire on the GT101)
2G on the ECU is CAS2 input, which is the red wire. Remove this pin from the ECU plug housing, and connect this red wire to the +12V ignition positive (pin 1B, red wire), and then this becomes the power for the Hall effect sensor (black/red on the GT101).
You will also need to select "digital" as the input type for trigger 1 under triggering settings (now you can just click "unlock trigger settings" instead of having to do that trick in the video). By default it is "reluctor" for the factory sensor pickup. It needs to be "digital" for Hall effect sensors.
Cheers!
Andy
The following users liked this post:
timrx-7 (10-04-20)
06-01-14, 08:53 PM
#10
sorry to jump this thread but I have attempted to join the Adaptronic forum and cannot get an access response email (not in my spam box etc.)
Just ordered an RX8 Select through FFE, but it's not clear if the FFE Hall sensor option can be used on it? The pinout states the OE & Adaptronic share the CAS signal which led me to believe the OE reluctor sensor would be required, but the RX8 Select product info seems to indicate it can use a Hall sensor. A PM is ok to avoid going off topic. Thx.
RX8 Hall Sensor Upgrade Kit | Full Function Engineering
Just ordered an RX8 Select through FFE, but it's not clear if the FFE Hall sensor option can be used on it? The pinout states the OE & Adaptronic share the CAS signal which led me to believe the OE reluctor sensor would be required, but the RX8 Select product info seems to indicate it can use a Hall sensor. A PM is ok to avoid going off topic. Thx.
RX8 Hall Sensor Upgrade Kit | Full Function Engineering
06-01-14, 09:00 PM
#11
sorry to jump this thread but I have attempted to join the Adaptronic forum and cannot get an access response email (not in my spam box etc.) Just ordered an RX8 Select through FFE, but it's not clear if the FFE Hall sensor option can be used on it? The pinout states the OE & Adaptronic share the CAS signal which led me to believe the OE reluctor sensor would be required, but the RX8 Select product info seems to indicate it can use a Hall sensor. A PM is ok to avoid going off topic. Thx. RX8 Hall Sensor Upgrade Kit | Full Function Engineering
06-01-14, 09:07 PM
#12
TeamRX8
10000 RPM Lane
Location: on the rev limiter
http://fullfunctioneng.com/info/Hall%20vs%20VR.pdf
.
10000 RPM Lane
Location: on the rev limiter
Why choose a Hall Sensor?
They work at zero engine speed which is great for slow cranking engines and traction control. Many operate up to 15,000 rpm with a 60 tooth wheel which benefits most high rpm, small displacement engines. The air gap tolerances are very large; up to 5 mm (0.197”), because of this re-installation can be easier. The angular displacement tolerance (how tangent the sensor is to the tooth) is liberal and has a tooth to tooth memory so they don't suffer from wheels being out of round. No moving parts provide long life expectancy; over a billion cycles. All of these advantages allow for a more consistent, user friendly, higher value product.
They work at zero engine speed which is great for slow cranking engines and traction control. Many operate up to 15,000 rpm with a 60 tooth wheel which benefits most high rpm, small displacement engines. The air gap tolerances are very large; up to 5 mm (0.197”), because of this re-installation can be easier. The angular displacement tolerance (how tangent the sensor is to the tooth) is liberal and has a tooth to tooth memory so they don't suffer from wheels being out of round. No moving parts provide long life expectancy; over a billion cycles. All of these advantages allow for a more consistent, user friendly, higher value product.
.
06-02-14, 01:36 PM
#13
sorry to jump this thread but I have attempted to join the Adaptronic forum and cannot get an access response email (not in my spam box etc.)
Just ordered an RX8 Select through FFE, but it's not clear if the FFE Hall sensor option can be used on it? The pinout states the OE & Adaptronic share the CAS signal which led me to believe the OE reluctor sensor would be required, but the RX8 Select product info seems to indicate it can use a Hall sensor. A PM is ok to avoid going off topic. Thx.
RX8 Hall Sensor Upgrade Kit | Full Function Engineering
Just ordered an RX8 Select through FFE, but it's not clear if the FFE Hall sensor option can be used on it? The pinout states the OE & Adaptronic share the CAS signal which led me to believe the OE reluctor sensor would be required, but the RX8 Select product info seems to indicate it can use a Hall sensor. A PM is ok to avoid going off topic. Thx.
RX8 Hall Sensor Upgrade Kit | Full Function Engineering
I will get Andy to answer this one, and have someone else look at the forum problem for you.
06-02-14, 06:17 PM
#14
Hi guys, in the factory wiring there is no 12V to the crank angle sensor, because Mazda uses reluctor sensors. They basically act like a generator and only generate voltage when the engine rotates.
The FFE trigger is a missing tooth type so we only need one sensor.
My recommendations:
1. If you're using the factory loom, you can use the other wire that goes to the 1 tooth pickup for 12V.
From factory, pin 4H on the ECU goes to ground on the sensors (green and red). So cut the plugs off and use the green wire as your ground for the Hall effect sensor. I don't know the wire color on your particular sensor, but if it's a GT101, it's the black wire.
Pin 4E is the CAS 1 input, which goes to the 12 tooth trigger positive (black wire) on the factory loom. So connect the black wire on the factory CAS plug to the Hall effect trigger output. This is black/white on the GT101 (middle wire).
Pin 4G is the CAS 2 input, which goes to the 1 tooth trigger positive (white wire) on the factory loom. We will use this for 12V supply. So remove this pin (4G) from the factory connector, and instead connect this wire to 12V (pin 1B). Then the white wire at the factory CAS plug goes to the Hall effect power supply (black/red wire on the GT101>
2. If you're using a wire-in, it's the same, just different colors.
2C/2D on the ECU goes into the white wire in the 4-core shielded cable, so use this as ground (black wire on the GT101)
2E on the ECU is our CAS input, which is the black internal wire in the 4-core shielded wire, so that becomes our signal (black/white wire on the GT101)
2G on the ECU is CAS2 input, which is the red wire. Remove this pin from the ECU plug housing, and connect this red wire to the +12V ignition positive (pin 1B, red wire), and then this becomes the power for the Hall effect sensor (black/red on the GT101).
You will also need to select "digital" as the input type for trigger 1 under triggering settings (now you can just click "unlock trigger settings" instead of having to do that trick in the video). By default it is "reluctor" for the factory sensor pickup. It needs to be "digital" for Hall effect sensors.
Cheers!
Andy
The FFE trigger is a missing tooth type so we only need one sensor.
My recommendations:
1. If you're using the factory loom, you can use the other wire that goes to the 1 tooth pickup for 12V.
From factory, pin 4H on the ECU goes to ground on the sensors (green and red). So cut the plugs off and use the green wire as your ground for the Hall effect sensor. I don't know the wire color on your particular sensor, but if it's a GT101, it's the black wire.
Pin 4E is the CAS 1 input, which goes to the 12 tooth trigger positive (black wire) on the factory loom. So connect the black wire on the factory CAS plug to the Hall effect trigger output. This is black/white on the GT101 (middle wire).
Pin 4G is the CAS 2 input, which goes to the 1 tooth trigger positive (white wire) on the factory loom. We will use this for 12V supply. So remove this pin (4G) from the factory connector, and instead connect this wire to 12V (pin 1B). Then the white wire at the factory CAS plug goes to the Hall effect power supply (black/red wire on the GT101>
2. If you're using a wire-in, it's the same, just different colors.
2C/2D on the ECU goes into the white wire in the 4-core shielded cable, so use this as ground (black wire on the GT101)
2E on the ECU is our CAS input, which is the black internal wire in the 4-core shielded wire, so that becomes our signal (black/white wire on the GT101)
2G on the ECU is CAS2 input, which is the red wire. Remove this pin from the ECU plug housing, and connect this red wire to the +12V ignition positive (pin 1B, red wire), and then this becomes the power for the Hall effect sensor (black/red on the GT101).
You will also need to select "digital" as the input type for trigger 1 under triggering settings (now you can just click "unlock trigger settings" instead of having to do that trick in the video). By default it is "reluctor" for the factory sensor pickup. It needs to be "digital" for Hall effect sensors.
Cheers!
Andy
Andy thanks for the info, I'm sure that this will help other people in the future.
06-02-14, 08:49 PM
#15
sorry to jump this thread but I have attempted to join the Adaptronic forum and cannot get an access response email (not in my spam box etc.)
Just ordered an RX8 Select through FFE, but it's not clear if the FFE Hall sensor option can be used on it? The pinout states the OE & Adaptronic share the CAS signal which led me to believe the OE reluctor sensor would be required, but the RX8 Select product info seems to indicate it can use a Hall sensor. A PM is ok to avoid going off topic. Thx.
RX8 Hall Sensor Upgrade Kit | Full Function Engineering
Just ordered an RX8 Select through FFE, but it's not clear if the FFE Hall sensor option can be used on it? The pinout states the OE & Adaptronic share the CAS signal which led me to believe the OE reluctor sensor would be required, but the RX8 Select product info seems to indicate it can use a Hall sensor. A PM is ok to avoid going off topic. Thx.
RX8 Hall Sensor Upgrade Kit | Full Function Engineering
Even with the FD you don't get any accuracy benefit going to Hall effect over the factory pickup; you may get some increased noise immunity at low RPM but that's the only benefit I see.
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