BLKTOPTRVL

Today, I installed the Y-Pipe. It was an easy, straightforward, and fast job. Separating the stock y-pipe into the two halves gave me a new appreciation of how the turbo system works. Seeing the butterfly opened my eyes.



At the same time I installed the Profec B Control Motor.



This turn out to be a unnecessarily hard job simply because most of the posts that give instruction do not do a good job of identifying the hose to be removed/replaced by the controller and the hose that gets capped. The descriptions say remove the hose between the turbo and the waste gate. But if you are new to the turbo system it is hard to know which is which and the descriptions would be more accurate if they said "remove the hose between the turbo and the waste gate actuator."



I am uploading pictures of how I installed the controller today. If I installed it wrong, please let me know now so I can correct it when I install the brain tomorrow. After a brief test drive, I am now getting 7 lbs max in all gears, so I am assuming I am on target.



PIC (A) Hoses

PIC (B) Controller installed behind the ABS

PIC (C) All part that had to be removed to do this install (Y-Pipe and Profec).



Regarding the install of the Controller Unit, I still would like to install it in the driver door pocket, but after seeing how large the hose is I can see that it might be difficult. I have two questions…



1. Does anyone know where the best place to drill a hole of the hose to pass through the firewall is? I hate to do this, but I am guessing that it will be easiest from under the car.

2. If the hose going from the controller to the brain is pinched, will this create max boost or min boost situation?

BLKTOPTRVL

Pic A Hoses

BLKTOPTRVL

Pic (B) Controller Installed.

I could not find anyplace to install the controller. I have all stock air intake and every other mounting location seemed too small, so I ended up installing it behind the ABS Unit piping.

BLKTOPTRVL

PIC (C) Parts Removed

rynberg

Behind the ABS is about the best place for the solenoid.

Sounds and looks good, you should be getting 7 psi without the unit on/plugged in. I can't tell from the pic, but did you plug both the nipple on the wastegate (actuator) AND the tube that ran to it?

My vacuum tube is run through the grommet with the main wiring harness (to the ecu). And YES, you do have to worry about the tube getting pinched close. My mechanic used the hard vacuum tubing (like you would use for a mechanical boost gauge) to reinforce the tubing running through the firewall.

If the tube gets pinched close, the Profec will not sense pressure and will not open the wastegate. Your car will feel really, really powerful for a couple of seconds and then BOOM!

BLKTOPTRVL

Actually I capped the actuator and did not plug the danagling hose. I read elsewere that it is not necessary. If it is, I will drop the engine pan tomorrow and plug it from the bottom.

rynberg

You have to plug the hose too. If you already have all your intake parts back in, I guess it would be easier from below...

Good luck!

solo1seven

Hi,

I just installed my Profec B and Efini Y pipe as well. I ran the vacuum line through the boot that the ECU wiring harness comes through, and then into the lower flip down droor below the head unit in the middle of the dash. Everything is working very well.

Andrew Wojteczko

BLKTOPTRVL

Thanks Andrew. I'll go find the ECU!

BLKTOPTRVL

Finished the install of the profec today. Not happy.

(RYNBERG - I plugged the dangle that used to go to the actuator)

I mounted the the brains on the driver kick pannel - big mistake. From here is is very difficult to adjust and it blocks access to the dead pedal. I think I will move it next week into the driver door as I originaly thought I wanted. To do this I think I will have to replace the rubber/silicone soft hose with a plastic hard hose. I think the hard hose will be better for this installation because it will conform to the curve at the door henge better.

Any Opinions?

As for tuning, The DIPS are set (left to right) at up down up down.

With the unit off, I get 7-8 lbs, which is a little troubling because yesterday with no brain installed - just the controller, I was getting dead on 7 lbs max.

With the unit on and low set to min, I am getting 9-10 lbs at WOT 3rd gear.

I am thinking that perhaps I have the balance is set too high (10 o'clock) with high and low boost set at min.

Anyone have any idea where I can find hard palstic vacuum tubing?

solo1seven

The autometer guages use a plastic hard vacuum line, also Porsche uses hard vacuum lines, you can order them as seperate parts I believe.

Andrew Wojteczko

BLKTOPTRVL

I used to have an Oil Pressure Gauge in onje of my old cars and it had the same plastic tubing. I will stop by an auto parts store today after washing and waxing. I think the hardest part will be to find couplers.

BLKTOPTRVL

OK, I moved the Profec - B head unit to a better location on the kick panel yesterday. It is still hard to reach and I still can't see it while driving, but at least it is not in the way now.

Taking a hard look again at the door pocket and the way the door is henged, I decided to try to install the head unit in the door pocket.

I went as far as to remove the driver door before I chickened out of drilling a hole in the door frame and another in the door to pass the vacuum line and wiring. I may take another look at this later, because I am still fairly confident that the hose would not get pinched. [Take a good look at the way the wiring harnesses in your doors behave when the door is opened or closed and you will see what I mean.]

As for tuning, I reset the dips to down, up, up, down to handle overboost condition. I still get occasional runs to 9.5 lbs in low boost mode with the boost **** set all the way to the left (counter-clockwise).

Could the install of the Efini Y pipe account for as much as an extra pound of boost (over 7)? I think it would be reasonable to attribute some of the xtra boost to a gauge that is not entirely accurate?

The boost pattern most of the time seems to be 8-5-8 with the occasional run to 9.5. With these results I will keep it out of high boost mode until I get a better feel for what is happening.

How far around the clock is your profec set to at low boost?

Another thought I had was to go ahead and get a remote control for the Profec. But I don't like the idea of using the one they sell.

My question about the remote unit is... If it is just a transmitter - like the remote for your TV, then how does it know to that you want to move from high to low boost, or from low to high? It seems that if you have pressed the button a few times, you may not know what mode you are in until you see what is happening on the gauge.

Can anyone tell me if the remote works differently from what I described above?

What I would prefer to have is a rocker switch, that would sit on the tunnel in the place of the dead switch between the fog lamps and the defroster. I would like to flip that forward for high boost and back for low. In addition, it would be great if I could incorporate a dim bulb in the boost gauge to indicate what mode the profec is in.

And lastly, can someone explain a little bit more about how the waste gate works? What holds it closed under pressure and what makes it open? I think having these answers will help me diagnose why it is that the boost suddenly went (overnight it seemed) from normal operation to overboosting - instantly on transition - to as many as 14 lbs.

BLKTOPTRVL

OK, Nobody seems to be responding, but I will keep writing just in case this helps somone else in the future.

I searched a bit further and found the troubleshooting guide for the Twins.

According to the guide, Spiking to as much as or greater than 14 lbs could be an indicator that the hose between the primary turbo and the Pre-Control Actuator has poped off.

The guide does not say anything about the possibility of the hose being loose or damaged, but I am guessing that since I can see that the hose is there and connected, and since a swollen (around the pill) hose will produce lower boost and a popped of hose can produce greater boost, then the actuator is expecting to see a set amount of pressure but is not.

My assumtion then is that the hose may be still attached but cracked (somewhere between the pill and the actuator) and therefore not presenting all required pressure to the actuator.

This is logical to me because my boost pressure had always been right around 11 lbs on transition and over the past few months it had been steadily increasing to the point where I was getting an indicated 14.5 lbs before installing the Profec B and limiting the boost to minimum while I figure this out.

So, this weekend when I get home, I will lift the car again and replace the turbo to actuator hoses in hopes of controlling the spikes.

bureau_c

Sorry to resurrect this...but WHY do you have to cap the dangling hose? Its no longer doing anything. Is this more along the lines of a "good idea" to avoid anythign foreign getting in there? Even so, its going to the stock wastegate duty solenoid, which is still just doing stuff that the ECU tells it but with no purpose. What am I missing?

jds