samerooo222

Ok, ive been wanting to buy an RX7 (3rd gen tt) for the longest time and im getting so so close to having enough money. For the past 6 months or so i have been reading a million threads about this rx7 i want so bad. Some people say that as long as you take care of your rx7 and dont do nothing stupid to it then it will run like it should. THEN theres ALOT of other people saying that the rx7 is the most demanding and most expensive to maintain vehicle on the road. Which one is it??? Some people make me feel good about wanting to buy one then others are making it seem like only rich people can afford to own the car.
I am planning on selling my van (which is on ebay right now) then buying a 90-91 crx si as my daily driver and an rx7 tt as my "weekend" car.
Is the rx7 not the right car for me?? And by the way, im 20 years old and own a small cell phone store, but plan on going back to school to become ase certified and open my own shop in the next 5 years.

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

please search, this topic is discussed every week

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I have a 91 CRX for the daily driver and I pay $100 less a year having the RX7 on weekends. It's also double the gas milage and more then triple then my truck. If you stay stock, can remove/reinstall a reman engine and can afford the insurance then ok. Parts are expensive. Rebuilds should be an expected price to pay to play.

samerooo222

I DID search. Thats why im seeing some people saying that its not too much money or maintenence and TONS of others saying that its going to take all your time and money.

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

Well for the most part, if you keep the car mainly stock then it will be reliable but when you start to do serious power mods then the car will become unreliable. IMO if you want a reliable FD,, then just do the reliability mods and drive the car.

sonix7

I followed every thread I could for 6 months and did extensive homework to buy mine. I did what everyone suggested, lowest miles, best maintained. I even got better than that I got a mint condition, stock, 39,000 mile FD. Exactly what I wanted, 1500 miles away from where I live. Extensive service records for detailing the entire life of the car and met the original owner, drove it a couple miles a week, mostly to the dealership for **** routine service. I bought it tried to keep it stock with a few reliabilty mods as suggested. Downpipe, new ast, that is it. I drove it home 1500 miles and then about 2000 miles over the next 6 months, all of a sudden a cooling fan problem, scared the **** out of me, stock temp needle went all the way up momentarily. I started tracing the problem, lead to one thing after another, coolant leak, oil leak, resealing oil pan, hose job, new water pump, new water pump gaskets, new radiator hoses, new ast, tachometer jumping, cooling fan replacment, relays replacement. You get the point. Now after the hose job, I have a boost issue, needed diagnosis of problem (hard part), new solenoids, new charge control valves, new check valves, etc. This is all on one of the nicest condition 7's still alive. This is what I have to deal with and mine has been being worked on for over a year (convienently). Haven't been able to even enjoy it. I have a lot of flexible time to work on it too. So this might give you better idea of what its like. It is true what they say, if you are planning on keeping it and making it reliable. If I didn't do the stuff I did, I woulkd have been looking at a rebuild. Fun stuff, if you can handle it then it will be extremely thrilling, but you never know what you are going to deal with until it happens to you, I don't care how much people tell you and you read, everyones experience is different, unfortunately 90% of us have had the same issues, think about it, hard!!! This is not an investment and can be considered a money pit, depends on your point of view. Hope this helps.

InvisibleMonkey

that's what i'm doing (if i get one)...just reliability mods, intake, exhaust, a small turbo, and a boost controller

rynberg

Dude, you really need to stop talking out of your ***. Please. You should spend more time reading and learning instead of posting a bunch of crap everywhere. Just some advice.

I never understand these threads where someone comes on here asking if the FD is the right car for them. If YOU can't figure that out for yourself, how are WE supposed to be able to?

The FD is a high-end sports car. Many systems/parts are designed to be light and/or for performance, not longevity. These cars are also 10+ years old and MANY have been abused or neglected. ANY FD you buy will require maintenance. Those that say they've owned an FD for years without doing anything but changing fluids are either a) full of ****, b) only driving 1000 miles/year, or c) not actually properly maintaining their cars.

In addition, the engine and turbos should be considered "wear items". They typically last 80-100k miles in mildly modified form. If you can't be prepared to have your car down for a while and to be able to pay for an engine rebuild at any time, then you really shouldn't own this car.

IMO, there are many FD owners that are not in the position to actually own one. Too many cars here have little maintenance and are modified using the cheapest parts possible. This car takes dedication and financial stability to PROPERLY own.

Just an opinion from an experienced, older, and somewhat wiser(?) owner. Make what you want of it.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

"all your time and money" is very relative. Some people can afford to drop $5k into an engine rebuild, and others can't. If $1000 per year in maintenance sounds expensive to you, then you shouldn't buy the car. If you have to 'save up' to get one, that makes me think you can't afford it.


Personally, I didn't have the driving skills or responsibility to handle a 250hp car when I was 20. This generation seems to think we deserve everything immediately; don't rush into such an expensive purchase if you're not ready for it.



On the other hand, it's a fun car, and I enjoy mine very much.

-s-

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Being an owner and builder of these cars for years, this is the approach I go with when looking for or buying a car for myself. Plan to spend 5 thousand on reliability mods as I've stated below...though it's hard to do this all at once, if you could do so, you would have a car almost as reliable as anything new off the lot. Note that most of these mods are NOT power mods, they relate to **** that is inferior in design or is likely to be worn out.

I look for a relatively clean body and a good interior, not perfect, but to my own taste and tolerance. Under the hood doesnt much matter to me, so long as everything is in place and hasn't been broken or hacked up. Get the car as cheap as you can, and drag it home.

Go on and tear it down as soon as you can...I'd pull the trans too. Rebuild the block. Seal the oilpan very well. Start building it back up in whatever form you want it to end up...single, nonsequential twins, or sequential twins, emissions or not, etc.

Instead of using rubber vacuum hose, use thickwall silicone. Either use new stock checkvalves or use dale clark's viton replacements. test each solenoid per the FSM which is quite simple. Any nipple that appears weak or broken makes the part junk.

Anywhere there is a 5/16" coolant line on the top of the engine or the AST, either remove it altogether and cap off each end OR run -6an stainless braided line with double clamps on each end. Same for fuel lines. Replace fuel pulsation dampner, have injectors cleaned and use new orings on them. replace fuel filter, and relocate it to a better area for future replacements.

Use a new clutch disc (PP's are reuseable) unless it's > 0.300" inch in thickness. Replace transmission rear seal. IF the trans shows any sign of leakage, reseal the lower pan, and refill with quality fluid. Drain and refill the diff as well. Check diff mounts for play while you're there. Replace input and output seals on diff if you want to go the extra mile.

Either replace the ast with a metal version or eliminate it altogether. Be sure you have good coolant cap(s) on the engine (and ast). Replace thermostat with mazda OEM. Replace both radiator hoses, and run an aftermarket all-metal radiator. Install an FC or miata thermoswitch to lower fan cut on temp. Be sure the plastic undertray is in place, and if necessary use foam weatherstripping from lowe's or similar to fill any gaps between the tray, the radiator, and the frame, to force all the air possible through the core instead of around it. A PFC with commander or an aftermarket temp gauge is recommended. Use -12an braided hose for the heatercore plumbing at the firewall as well as to the front and rear of the engine.

Evaluate engine harness and replace any connectors or wires that are broken or don't clip in place well...if yours appears totally hacked up or in rough shape, spend the $800 for a replacement.

Run new belts on it, I recommend dayco.

Install a downpipe (if using twins) in place of the precat.

Install a new battery and new terminals...a few extra ground and charge wires with good connections don't hurt either, but arent necessary.

That's it for the drivetrain/engine stuff. You should also evaluate bushings and suspension, as well as brakes.

Again, you do all this, and you will have a car that'll be more reliable than most anything on the road.

cbf246

uummmm....yeah. the 3rd gen rx7 already comes with two small turbos... haha. and theyre sequential. haha. about if you should get a FD or not, just make sure you have at least an extra 4-6k. there is always something that will go wrong. i bought my 95' with apx. 35k miles almost a year ago. when i got it it had low compression (need a rebuild), leaking coolant (ast tank, radiator, and hoses), warped rotors (brakes), downpipe, turbo timer, and so on and so on. if you get one, be prepared to spend some money to get it back into shape.

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

I was waiting for the guru's to arrive.. You asked for it..

saburo

iTrader: (1)

RX-7 is another normal japanese car. nothing special. Its just a car. Don't stress about it so much.

samerooo222

Ok, I think I got everything down. I AM saving up for it and i DO know that there will be problems and that why I am planning on buying the CRX first. I love the idea of reliability mods and want to know everything about them and if possible, step-by-step instructions (video if possible) on how to do them. I will search for them on this web-site, if any of you can speed up the process please help me out. I really appreciate all your help.

This question is for rotoryresurrection. How much would it cost to do all the mods you stated and have them done by someone like you? Just curious.

Mura

20yrs old...Insurance is gonna kill you, unless you have a perfect driving record. Thickwall silicone? Dumb question, but this can also be used on the FC, right?

CantGoStraight

Like most will tell you it depends on your goals, how quickly you widsh to arrive at them and if you have the patience to do it correctly. The more HP you go for the more it cost and the less reliable it is. Get in a hurry and do it wrong.....gets expensive (ask Yanni) two cars and three motors later he is out of the FD bussiness. This car has great looks and handling and even at the stock boost level can be quite challenging to drive. Best of luck to you.

CantGoStraight

Yep can use thick wall silicone on the FC any where there is vacuum hose.

RX 4 Speed

well said rynberg... I just love reading your posts. You tell it like it is, no buttering anywhere. Awesome... People who don't know anything shouldn't just post crap everywhere, as you said... what's worse is them giving advice.

saxyman990

Exactly! Reminds me of that teenage RX-8 owner that was trying to give advice about tuning an FD: "Just tune it till it pings a little, and then back it off slightly." I wonder how many people blew their engine because of that statement...

-Rob

David Beale

Well, Rynberg's experience is different than mine. Perhaps it's because we don't see high ambient temps. here, or perhaps because I don't race it. I have had two failures on my RX-7 in seven years - one was a hose in the intake system that came loose, the other was leaking coolant caps. The hose cost nothing to fix, the caps cost $30 or so.

What does cost is "upgrading" things. These are all Canadian funds.
When I bought the car it needed new tires - $1200
Next year it "needed" better springs and an Effiny "Y" pipe - $800
Then it needed a clutch and rear main seal and shifter spring - $1000
Next year it "needed" a PFC - $1200
Then I "had to" fix up the chin spoiler and tail - $700
Next I "had to" replace the audio system - $1200
Still "have to" get a Datalogit - $500
Of course the engine and turbos have 75,000 km on them so in around 30-90,000 km I'll have to replace them - $10,000

It's not a car for the "weak of wallet" - she's a high maintanance lady! I only drive it on weekends. My "beater" is an SUV - 2001 Pathfinder.

Mr. Stock

I believe that when the FD's were new, in stock configuration with routine proper maintenance, they were reliable cars.

However, all of these cars are now 10+ years old. Even if you find a low mileage one that has been maintained meticulously, you will not have a guarantee that nothing will break on the car.

EDIT: I just read Rynberg's reply - He elaborated much better than my terse reply.

Kento

EXACTLY. Blows me away how many can't think for themselves...

samerooo222

I have a horrible driving record, but I did good in the past three years with only 3 speeding tickets and I am going to put the car in ma momma name. We pay only 24$ a month on my bros 94 accord so I am estimating that this car would run around 75 max.

RX 4 Speed

Same story as mine David... owned her for 2-1/2 years, and (knock on wood) driven her mainly on weekend, and occasionally during the week. 5K miles in 2-1/2 years. No breakdowns yet. Just keep her well maintained and she's been good.

jsplit

Well then you should wait. You're going to get more speeding tickets, kill yourself or worse yet someone else.