A word of advice for those buying new Mazda crate engines
01-14-12, 08:44 AM
#1
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
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A word of advice for those buying new Mazda crate engines
I've torn down quite a few of these engines by now for portwork, oil mods, different apex seal clearancing etc.
The benefit is that they're 100% brand new, down to the oil pump, oil pan, needle bearings, and even the front cover hardware. They're an amazing value, for those not aware you can get them from Ray Crowe for just over $4000 not including the core charge and shipping. Give him a ring at the Malloy Mazda parts desk at (888) 533-3400
The only real downside is this (and the reason for this thread): Mazda runs the motors to ensure proper compression and adequate coolant passage pressure. Problem is that they appear to use straight water, or some other concoction that leads to severe rusting and deposit formation in the coolant passages. Typically the bottom passages are the worst of course, but the crap that I have had to scrape/flush out is VERY nasty. Some of it black and crystalized, some of it rust-colored and gelatin-like.
I know this thread is worthless without pics, but for now you'll have to just be patient and trust me
There is another minor downside in that they don't clearance the side seals as tight as I'd like, but Mazda spec is very generous and they're all within spec so not something to lose sleep over.
Anyway, for those dropping the cash for these engines..... congrats, but if you're installing them as-is definitely pay attention to flushing your cooling system a few times
The benefit is that they're 100% brand new, down to the oil pump, oil pan, needle bearings, and even the front cover hardware. They're an amazing value, for those not aware you can get them from Ray Crowe for just over $4000 not including the core charge and shipping. Give him a ring at the Malloy Mazda parts desk at (888) 533-3400
The only real downside is this (and the reason for this thread): Mazda runs the motors to ensure proper compression and adequate coolant passage pressure. Problem is that they appear to use straight water, or some other concoction that leads to severe rusting and deposit formation in the coolant passages. Typically the bottom passages are the worst of course, but the crap that I have had to scrape/flush out is VERY nasty. Some of it black and crystalized, some of it rust-colored and gelatin-like.
I know this thread is worthless without pics, but for now you'll have to just be patient and trust me
There is another minor downside in that they don't clearance the side seals as tight as I'd like, but Mazda spec is very generous and they're all within spec so not something to lose sleep over.
Anyway, for those dropping the cash for these engines..... congrats, but if you're installing them as-is definitely pay attention to flushing your cooling system a few times
01-14-12, 12:59 PM
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
Thanks for the tip – I'll keep it in mind when the time comes.
01-15-12, 04:53 PM
#4
Hi. I just wanted to chime in on this.
i bought an engine from ray and what he says is true. i was lucky enough that it wasnt sludge or gelatin like but mostly liquid.
once i installed the engine and ran it for a while. i saw in my overflow tank left over rust water. i will be needing to due quite a few flushes to get most of it out but the engine are a great value.
i bought an engine from ray and what he says is true. i was lucky enough that it wasnt sludge or gelatin like but mostly liquid.
once i installed the engine and ran it for a while. i saw in my overflow tank left over rust water. i will be needing to due quite a few flushes to get most of it out but the engine are a great value.
01-15-12, 06:08 PM
#7
rotary sensei
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Dump out the nasty coolant, pour a couple of oz. of oil into each combustion chamber and turn over the motor a couple times to distribute the oil. Tape over the intake ports, exhaust ports and other openings so nothing can get into the motor. Cover the engine.
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01-15-12, 07:40 PM
#12
He didn't say you'd see problems immediately or even at all. He was saying "hey, maybe you want to consider a coolant flush, to get all the junk out of the coolant passages that could possibly kill a water pump. My "crate motor" when torn down had all kinds of junk in the coolant system.
01-16-12, 11:14 AM
#16
700 miles!?! OHWOW!
He didn't say you'd see problems immediately or even at all. He was saying "hey, maybe you want to consider a coolant flush, to get all the junk out of the coolant passages that could possibly kill a water pump. My "crate motor" when torn down had all kinds of junk in the coolant system.
He didn't say you'd see problems immediately or even at all. He was saying "hey, maybe you want to consider a coolant flush, to get all the junk out of the coolant passages that could possibly kill a water pump. My "crate motor" when torn down had all kinds of junk in the coolant system.
Sorry I don't daily drive my fd to have more miles like you do. With an ODO of 50k miles, I don't really want to DD it.
01-17-12, 09:49 AM
#18
Some pics from the last one we tore down, we also found big chunks of loose cast iron in the coolant channels. We let Ray know, he passed the info on to Mazda, which said to flush the engines. We suggested they put a filter on their supply line and use distilled water. http://www.banzai-racing.com/2011_cu..._breakdown.htm
01-18-12, 08:06 PM
#22
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
While it doesn't look pretty, a good flush through with clean water will solve that problem. I'd probably flush the engine through before installation while it was still on the stand.
I'm glad at least that they do test run them on a stand, that's good quality control. The production process was most likely assuming that soon after test running the engine would be put in a car on the assembly line and not have a chance to sit. It is quite possible these motors have been sitting for a while.
Also, if I paid $4k for a motor, I'd probably want to crack it open at least to have a look, if not to port it.
Dale
I'm glad at least that they do test run them on a stand, that's good quality control. The production process was most likely assuming that soon after test running the engine would be put in a car on the assembly line and not have a chance to sit. It is quite possible these motors have been sitting for a while.
Also, if I paid $4k for a motor, I'd probably want to crack it open at least to have a look, if not to port it
.Dale
01-21-12, 08:20 AM
#23
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
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Baja, I don't think this speaks to poor quality, not sure there's a way around it. Maybe they should switch to straight coolant..... I'll hit up ol' Ray Crowe and tell him to get my Mazda corporate on the phone
Dale, I couldn't agree more. This particular engine is getting a serious 'Stage 3+' single turbo streetport along with oil mods, coolant mods, NRS ceramic apex seals, and possibly the Pineapple HD coolant o-rings
Dale, I couldn't agree more. This particular engine is getting a serious 'Stage 3+' single turbo streetport along with oil mods, coolant mods, NRS ceramic apex seals, and possibly the Pineapple HD coolant o-rings