A word of advice for those buying new Mazda crate engines
01-21-12, 03:41 PM
#26
Thanks for starting this thread, valuable information 
I bought one of these engines but cost me close to $5k with no core exchange.
I will make sure I flush the engine properly.
Btw we had a little issue with UPS during shipping. They put the engine on its side and apparently decent amount of oil spilled out and UPS refused to carry it due to unclaimed flammable liquid. I spoke with Ray about this and he told me they test the engine and there must be some left in the engine. But the liquid may even be water, UPS guy wouldn't know......
+1 Arghx. There are stock port engines making 700hp right?
Port job is best done if one is rebuilding their engine already or have extra cash and time otherwise on a new engine a $400 port job will cost $1000 incl. shipping costs back and forth. Plus once you open the engine, even if it's brand new you'll need to replace some gaskets/seals. Not worth it imo.
I bought one of these engines but cost me close to $5k with no core exchange.
I will make sure I flush the engine properly.
Btw we had a little issue with UPS during shipping. They put the engine on its side and apparently decent amount of oil spilled out and UPS refused to carry it due to unclaimed flammable liquid. I spoke with Ray about this and he told me they test the engine and there must be some left in the engine. But the liquid may even be water, UPS guy wouldn't know......
Port job is best done if one is rebuilding their engine already or have extra cash and time otherwise on a new engine a $400 port job will cost $1000 incl. shipping costs back and forth. Plus once you open the engine, even if it's brand new you'll need to replace some gaskets/seals. Not worth it imo.
03-03-12, 12:33 PM
#30
Recovering Miataholic
While it doesn't look pretty, a good flush through with clean water will solve that problem. I'd probably flush the engine through before installation while it was still on the stand.
03-06-12, 05:40 PM
#40
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Most likely these are overstock and have been sitting for years, which would explain all the rusted coolant...
Didn't Mazda export tons of parts for the FD and then leave the US market abruptly due to unexpected low sales and strength of the yen? That's why Ray has so many parts, I doubt Mazda was only planning to sell the FD 93-95
Didn't Mazda export tons of parts for the FD and then leave the US market abruptly due to unexpected low sales and strength of the yen? That's why Ray has so many parts, I doubt Mazda was only planning to sell the FD 93-95
03-06-12, 07:36 PM
#41
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Most likely these are overstock and have been sitting for years, which would explain all the rusted coolant...
Didn't Mazda export tons of parts for the FD and then leave the US market abruptly due to unexpected low sales and strength of the yen? That's why Ray has so many parts, I doubt Mazda was only planning to sell the FD 93-95
Didn't Mazda export tons of parts for the FD and then leave the US market abruptly due to unexpected low sales and strength of the yen? That's why Ray has so many parts, I doubt Mazda was only planning to sell the FD 93-95
The new engines are built in batches, and none of them have been sitting for very long.
Ray sells an absolute ton of parts, so many that Mazda frequently has to fire up another production run of R1 lips, pillow *****, undertrays etc etc.
and because im new to the forum its doesnt mean i dont know a thing about rotaries....
03-06-12, 10:45 PM
#49
Oh well if it's only 4k to install a 20b then hell everyone should have already done it by now. If you know that much about rotaries or custom work in general then you'd know there's a lot more to installing a 20b AND getting it running then $4,000 can buy, and that's assuming you do all the work and fabrication yourself. But that's not what this thread is about..There's tons of threads about the cost of 20b installs.
Also if you were to purchase all the various housings/rotors/parts/seals and pumps separately it would cost much more then $4000 for a stock new 13b. I'm not saying you don't know what you're talking about but; if you want to be realistic for a second you'd realize 4k for a complete brand new engine isn't a bad deal. Obviously people with different budgets will do things differently but this is probably the best option when it's time for a new engine, assuming the housings and other expensive components are out of spec.
Also if you were to purchase all the various housings/rotors/parts/seals and pumps separately it would cost much more then $4000 for a stock new 13b. I'm not saying you don't know what you're talking about but; if you want to be realistic for a second you'd realize 4k for a complete brand new engine isn't a bad deal. Obviously people with different budgets will do things differently but this is probably the best option when it's time for a new engine, assuming the housings and other expensive components are out of spec.
03-06-12, 11:00 PM
#50
Rotor or no motor
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Honestly, i dont see where the big deal is with this rust, Its minor surface rust