I Installed it and It still beeps!

Their site info is a bit wacky as it says 1984 and R2 ? but for all intents and purposes it looks exactly the same as OEM.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1192283&jsn=8

Thanks.

 

That's the sensor that was on the FC's. It's a simple switch - it grounds when water touches it, and goes open circuit with no water touching it.

The sensor itself is hardy, but the wiring to it and the wire going into the switch is what always goes bad.

If you are still getting a beep make sure the wiring is good. Also there is a 1-wire connector behind the PS pump that needs to be hooked up properly for that sensor to work.

Dale

 

The green plug or the lower one? This is the filler neck and not behind the power steering pump,I have removed mine.
I have just replaced the green with a new old sensor but to no avail.

On a side note a stereo shop was fixing my head unit and created this issue and they were not really under the hood so I'm wondering if they snipped something in the dash.

Thanks.

 

Edit - reading pwns me

did you check the wiring from the level sensor while you replaced it?

 

Yes well at least to the bulkhead, and there wasn't anything amiss.Planned on following it back does it go through the to the footwell? as I would like to rule out if its been messed with inside.
Anyone have a shot of the sensor by the power steering Pump?

The wiring was completely gone through 2 years ago I had someone that was great at doing this go through about everything not just wiring but everything was new or replaced and redone to a professional level in fact we replaced the coolant sensor with new OEM and it probably has only 350 miles on it ,but after visually checking everything I wanted to rule it out as a possible failure.

I did ground the wire and beeping stopped so assuming this means either sensor or wire is bad, no?

As I said the stereo shop were helping me with a ground loop and since then we have a issue.

 

First off, the water level sensor is what lights up the low coolant light on the temperature gauge and sounds the beep. This is in front of the thermostat housing, you can easily see it without removing anything. It has a short pigtail wire coming from the sensor to a white 1-wire connector.

The 2 sensors in the back of the water pump housing are different - the green 2-wire is the coolant sensor for the ECU that reports coolant temp and the 1-wire below that is the fan switch.

Over by the power steering pump is a 1-wire connector for the coolant level sensor. That plug is on the ECU harness, and that connector bridges the wire over to the body harness, eventually going to the CPU (buzzer) and instrument cluster (light).

This topic has been covered greatly in the past, if you need more on it do some searching. There's threads with pics and info.

The buzzer circuit is SUPER basic, if the wire is all connected and good and the sensor itself is sitting in coolant you shouldn't have a buzzer going off.

Typical issues are either the wire is broken, usually at the sensor, the plug behind the PS pump is unplugged or plugged into the wrong thing, or you just flat are low on coolant.

The sensor you linked will work but the connector is different, you would need to make a connection there.

It's possible the stereo shop could have done something with the wiring going to CPU#2 or something. Hard to say. Again, it's a super basic circuit, you'll have to follow the parts of it and see where it's not connected.

Dale

 

I understand.

What I need is a positive id of power steering connector and I will work the problem.

 

Power steering?

 

Coolant related sensor around p steering pump.

 

I believe this shows what you are looking for around the PS pump area. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...thread-995956/

 

Thanks.
In the last 2 weeks I have read every thread on the subject and spent a good amount of time in
above and under the car and I'm fairly sure there isn't a loose or broken wire in the engine bay.
The shop may have boogered up something as my battery discharges to < 10 volts immediately when connected and key on,thats from from fully charged so a pretty major red flag.

 

Seen this, wanted to chime in. Your car no longer has that connection behind the power steering pump. I incorporated all that into the main engine harness, all those connections and small harness are all now one. So dont bother looking for that connector.

If your grounding the harness lead, harness side, for the low coolant level sensor, and the alarm and light goes out, and stays out... I would have to think the problem is from the connector for sensor where it plugs into the harness, on your car it is now a Weather Pack connector, should be around front of fuel rails. forward. So between connector on sensor lead, and sensor itself.

 

Kev...I took a good look at that pack connection and it seemed solid to me,I even plumbed in some wire before the connection to rule it out, same result.

As of now I'm going to pull the battery and test it for a dead cell
Its a Optima yellow top again new a few yrs ago but in fairness to it its a third car seldom used so,I thought it was a quality piece however apparently their standards have gone to **** in the last few years so theres that.

 

Battery replaced started motor spins real fast now but still have buzzer when un -grounded wire back to square one.

Lucky for me brick n mortar replaced yellow top with new Thanks JEGS ....Jeeeeggggssssss.

If this is coolant seals then its not appearing on the plugs,holds near 20 psi only on warmup does the temp fluctuate for a second then steady 85 with no overheating.

Wait out!

 

If the coolant is full to the top of the filler cap and the buzzer is going off, it's something wrong with that circuit, period. It's a dumb sensor - you submerge it in water, it grounds out, the buzzer stops.

Either the sensor is bad or wiring to it is bad, that's it.

Dale

 

Maybe I missed something, but I’m still trying to figure out why you’re attempting to make a FC sensor from Rockauto work on your FD.

 

Theyvare the same.

 

Well, $50 or so savings is something I guess. But it’s a pretty important sensor IMO to leave to an aftermarket of unknown quality and with a different connector instead of OEM.