I just ordered an Autoexe intake and HKS BOV so they are being shipped to me now. I also have a aftermarket front pipe and catback. will that be too much to put on a stock ECU? I do plan on getting an aftermarket one soon but am limited on tuner options where I am, no shops have a Dyno so only a street tune can be done so I wasn't rushing to get one. Is there anything to worry about or should I hold off on installing the intake until I get the ECU? Or is the only right answer for this to maintain 10 PSI and I'm good? I just want a few senior opinions before I potentially cause issues. And since I already brought it up above, would you trust a street tune only with no dyno for a FD you drive regularly?

 

Not sure about your stock ECU question but a good street tune is fine. I’ve been driving on one for almost two years as I’ve continued to work on my car. My tuner left my car a little rich to be on the safe side. Could I get more power and probably a smoother tune on a dyno? Yes. But a good street tune won’t blow anything up.

if you got a modern ecu like a haltech or adaptronic, there are guys who can tune remotely who I’ve heard very good things about. I have an old PFC ECU so I don’t have first hand experience with remote tuning but I’ve talked to some people who have.

 

Thanks for the response, I just want to make sure I'm going about things the right way for longevity of the engine. From what I've been reading, just getting a good boost controller should meet my needs as far as not destroying the engine. As for power return, I dont think Ill see full potential until I get a ECU, but this should give me time to sort things out.

 

A good boost controller will help keep boost response consistent but it's not a bandaid if there are bigger issues. I hooked up a boost controller on mine and realized that my WG was too small and/or my exhaust manifold design was crap (it was on the car when I got it) because I'm consistently over boosting and the data logs from my PFC confirm my suspicion. Contollers, like all electronics, can fail so still make sure you've got the right spring and WG size to protect your engine from blowing up if your boost controller decides not to work one day...

 

Stock ECU: keep it to 10 PSI. You will hit fuel cut with stock ECU depending on your boost and rpm.


You're fine street tuning in my opinion. I have never been to a dyno, but you do have to be careful and safe about it. It will take longer to get the tune perfect on the street unless there is a long stretch of deserted road behind your house.

FYI If you are planning to run 12-14 psi you will also max out your stock injectors in colder weather.

 

Every car is different. What holds true on one car may not be true on your car, a lot of it depends on the health of the engine and turbos, how well the control system is working, etc.

If you keep it to 10psi yes you'll be fine. Also you need a good boost gauge if you are going to keep an eye on things.

Banzai Racing's thread on dyno results for each part added is a golden reference, you can really see the changes for each part -

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...added-1104322/

Dale

 

Great info, it looks like I'll be porting the wastegate in the coming weeks. I have a basic understanding of how its done but just need to read up and make sure I dont go overboard on the diameter of the hole. As for the max PSI, I'm content staying conservative at 10 for now until I'm certain the reliability is there to handle more. In the mean time I'll be accumulating as much as possible for the car here in Japan before its shipped back to the states next year.

 

Sorry, forgot to mention I already have a boost gauge but its not digital and I do have a hard time keeping my eyes on the road and seeing where its at but the Profec Boost Controller I'm looking at will make that easier to monitor. Other reliability mods are finished as well, aluminum AST, front and rear low mileage suspension with superpro bushings, and I have the new fuel filter just need to switch it out

 

An analog boost gauge is easier to watch than digital, many times the numbers on a digital gauge don't update fast enough. The boost gauge needs to be in line of sight, if it's down under the radio or something it's not going to be very useful.

Make a few 2nd gear runs and you can get a feel for how the gauge reacts.

Dale

 

If you're literally just daily driving it, You'll be just fine. Have a boost gauge, back off if you go over 10psi or so. Know your limits and the car's. If you're in Oki, hit up Wandering Gaijin Tuning. If not, they can at least provide local advice. A remote tune if necessary perhaps as well. Honestly, I'm not sure if he does that. Your front pipe means nothing and your BOV is nothing. Intake is sort of something and, from a stock cat to a high flow cat is actually something you may need to be aware of. Personally, I've been on a cat delete plus HKS BOV for two years now with a stock (as far as I know) ECU, 0 issues. But, every situation is different. A tune is always best.

 

but pretty much any shop has done more Rx7's than any of us...

 

Why do you think the wastegate needs porting? Do you get boost creep?

 

Theres no boost creep, but do i need to wait until its happening to port it? I took it as this needs to be done to every FD eventually or am I wrong?

 

Nah. In general you don't overwhelm the wastegate unless you get rid of the main cat and put in a mid pipe.