Why should I ground the battery?
I just had my battery relocated to the storage bin behind the passenger seat and the shop never put a ground. My friend told me to put a primary and secondary ground on my car, however, I don't know how to complete this task.
Also, the storage bin wasn't cut and I don't have the battery relocation kit. Should I purchase the battery relocation kit?
Also, the storage bin wasn't cut and I don't have the battery relocation kit. Should I purchase the battery relocation kit?
I'm not really sure what your question is, but basically this what I get from your post:
- the battery is relocated to behind passenger seat
- everything is hooked up, except the battery is not grounded
- you aren't sure how you should do this
Right?
If so, just get some 4-gauge power wire, and a ring fitting for the end of it, then bolt the ring to the nearest spot on the chassis (may have to drill hole if there is not bolt nearby).
Be sure to clean off any paint and dirt before you bolt down the ring.
- the battery is relocated to behind passenger seat
- everything is hooked up, except the battery is not grounded
- you aren't sure how you should do this
Right?
If so, just get some 4-gauge power wire, and a ring fitting for the end of it, then bolt the ring to the nearest spot on the chassis (may have to drill hole if there is not bolt nearby).
Be sure to clean off any paint and dirt before you bolt down the ring.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 2
From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Yeah, could have done that yourself. They suck winkys!
Most likely they agreed to do it just to take your money. ALot of idiots say they know how to do things when they don't.
They either were incompetent (both mgr & mechanic)
They were afraid of cutting the bin
They were afraid of drilling to tap a ground.
They were smoking that crystal meth stuff
They took advantage of you and shouldn't have charged you for that.
The battery needs to be grounded! That was a 1/2 *** job! ...would they disconect the ground wire and remove it out if they replaced the battery in the engine?
Both M2 and Pettit sell a kit (with battery) for the rear bin. Other guys have made their own. A good stereo shop should be able to complete the task if you don't want to go back to that micky mouse shop.
Most likely they agreed to do it just to take your money. ALot of idiots say they know how to do things when they don't.
They either were incompetent (both mgr & mechanic)
They were afraid of cutting the bin
They were afraid of drilling to tap a ground.
They were smoking that crystal meth stuff
They took advantage of you and shouldn't have charged you for that.
The battery needs to be grounded! That was a 1/2 *** job! ...would they disconect the ground wire and remove it out if they replaced the battery in the engine?
Both M2 and Pettit sell a kit (with battery) for the rear bin. Other guys have made their own. A good stereo shop should be able to complete the task if you don't want to go back to that micky mouse shop.
Last edited by GoRacer; Feb 5, 2003 at 11:19 AM.
Yes, the battry needs to be grounded for a complete circuit (basic electronics knowledge). Best place to ground in the bin area is the existing threded holes for the rear seat belts, there are black rubber plugs in these holes now. It would be best to take another ground wire and run it from this point to a transmission bolt next to the starter.
Also, check to make sure they put a fuse or circuit breaker in the power line that enters the car.
If the battery is not mounted, it needs to be. This is very dangerous. Don't want a battery flying around during an accident either hitting you in the head or splashing you with battery acid. If not mounted yet, the cleanest way (ie. no new holes to drill) would be to make a tray that mounts to using thoses existing rear seat belt holes.
Let us know what kind of battery, is it sealed or dry cell?
Jack
See picture towards bottom of this page http://ourworld.cs.com/_ht_a/talvendi/id19.htm labeled "Battery Relocation". A Hawker PC925 is the biggest battery I could find that doesn't require taking the bins apart to take it in and out.
Also, check to make sure they put a fuse or circuit breaker in the power line that enters the car.
If the battery is not mounted, it needs to be. This is very dangerous. Don't want a battery flying around during an accident either hitting you in the head or splashing you with battery acid. If not mounted yet, the cleanest way (ie. no new holes to drill) would be to make a tray that mounts to using thoses existing rear seat belt holes.
Let us know what kind of battery, is it sealed or dry cell?
Jack
See picture towards bottom of this page http://ourworld.cs.com/_ht_a/talvendi/id19.htm labeled "Battery Relocation". A Hawker PC925 is the biggest battery I could find that doesn't require taking the bins apart to take it in and out.
I took my FD to a local stereo shop and I will never go back to that shop. I like that post about them possibly being on crystal meth.
Thanks so much for all your help guys. Should I ground the wire to the negative or positive side on the battery?
Also, I'm using a dry cell battery
Thank you
Thanks so much for all your help guys. Should I ground the wire to the negative or positive side on the battery?
Also, I'm using a dry cell battery
Thank you
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Originally posted by CYM GIRL
I took my FD to a local stereo shop and I will never go back to that shop. I like that post about them possibly being on crystal meth.
Thanks so much for all your help guys. Should I ground the wire to the negative or positive side on the battery?
Also, I'm using a dry cell battery
Thank you
I took my FD to a local stereo shop and I will never go back to that shop. I like that post about them possibly being on crystal meth.
Thanks so much for all your help guys. Should I ground the wire to the negative or positive side on the battery?
Also, I'm using a dry cell battery
Thank you
First of all, when grounding your car, uses 2 gauge or lower 0node wire, get some from homedepot, it cost like 70-80 cents for a foot!!! Secondly, is your car running? If so, you already have a ground. You should just put more just to be safe, the hotwire (by sunco in japan, supposedly the best grounding kit out there) has about 4-5 points, personnaly i would ground to more points but thats just me. Just find any chassie part/engine bolt that is free and prep the surface via sandind down to the metal, and then grounding the neg side of the battery to it and/or engine parts to the body/chassie. then it that part with some paint or some other kind of anti-rust chemical.
BTW: I totally agree with laujesse2 when he said you should step away from the electrical system with your hands up if you don't know which (pos/neg) to ground... Then again, you only learn by making mistakes
Have fun and good luck
BTW: I totally agree with laujesse2 when he said you should step away from the electrical system with your hands up if you don't know which (pos/neg) to ground... Then again, you only learn by making mistakes

Have fun and good luck
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 2
From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
By stereo shop I meant a professional one that does IASCA sound competitions. Their labor is more expensive but they know what they are doing. Here is one one the west coast. Browse their website to see what shop to look for.
http://www.sounds-good-stereo.com/about.html
Otherwise, get a battery relocation kit and take it to a rotary race shop for instillation. Then sell the other battery if you can't use it. I think the first shop ripped you off.
http://www.sounds-good-stereo.com/about.html
Otherwise, get a battery relocation kit and take it to a rotary race shop for instillation. Then sell the other battery if you can't use it. I think the first shop ripped you off.
Originally posted by tfhuth
By the way. When I bought my car I noticed the guy I got it from had added a few extra grounds. Except he didn't sand the paint off the points he added them. Lotta good that does.
Tom
By the way. When I bought my car I noticed the guy I got it from had added a few extra grounds. Except he didn't sand the paint off the points he added them. Lotta good that does.
Tom
Edit: Crap, why did I bump this up..
Seriously, I do not think you should be working on this car. You could seriously hurt yourself and the car.
If you have decided to work on a car. Then I would suggest on picking up the manual and learn the basics of automobile. But Jesse is right, you are better off having a professional work on your car. And do your research on the shops before taking your car to them to hack up. Not every shop can work on rotaries.
If you have decided to work on a car. Then I would suggest on picking up the manual and learn the basics of automobile. But Jesse is right, you are better off having a professional work on your car. And do your research on the shops before taking your car to them to hack up. Not every shop can work on rotaries.
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Thanks again.

