Snook

iTrader: (12)

I haven't been a big hit on the forum with my previous thread so I'll try another
dont have any pics or movies sorry just some routine questions

I don't have another car to compare to and couldn't find this in the manuals.

Pictures or very detailed explanations would be a great help.

1.The coolant line coming off of the throttle body near the top of the firewall. Where exactly does this go to?


2.The coolant line right behind the alternator. Not the one that goes to near the back of the thermostat housing. The hardpipe closer to the alternator and right behind it on the left side of the alternator (if looking from the front of the car.)

3. The tube coming off of the oil filler neck and going to the big nipple on the uim right below the bracket where the throttle cable connects to. What does that do? Is it like an oil catch can? What does the valve in the middle of it do? I've seen another car that had this capped off should I do the same?


Thanks

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Good start but due to your incomplete responce I will be forced to ask more boring questions. Boring only because most people on here have no idea wtf they are doing. But thanks to those of you who do and still contribute.

1. Do you have a picture of EXACTLY where it goes? Mine is plugged up and I'd like it to be hooked up.

2. If I'm non sequential do I just cap this line off? Mine is capped off now.

3. Does it act like an oil catch can putting excess oil back into the uim? What does the valve do. Should I keep this or cap it at both ends?

kung stew

1) no pics...but it dives down and connects to the top of the engine block, just in front of where the tranny mounts to the engine. It is behind the rats nest, just behind and a little center of the primary fuel rail.

2) not sure

3) Search PCV. The valve allows vacuum to vent the crankcase. Many say its not necessary and plug it. I believe the later model 7s do not have one, as its a redundant system.

Stew

puma

iTrader: (2)

check rob robinette for the removal of the PCV valve, very well explain

the hose near the alternator connects with the lower part of the throttle body coolant hose.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

hmm

Is it okay if that coolant line is capped that is on the engine block? If this one is capped and so is the one on top of the throttle body then don't I need to wire the fast idle cam half open? Funny thing is that the coolant hose at the bottom of the tb is still connected...that leads to the back of the alternator where it is capped off hahha.

So what should I do here? I'll hook up the line from the engine block to the bottom tb line so that it doesnt go through the tb any more but then the line behind the alternator is capped off. Where can I route that to?


I just read about the PCV valve and have decided to remove it like I have with everything else that is useless.

Is anyone following me? If this is in the manual please show me where so I can study it myself and stop confusing everyone.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

...

puma

iTrader: (2)

just take the line that comes from the block and goes to the throttle body and put it in the lower hole, where there is a little 90 deg collant hose. this way, the throttle body will be bypassed.

the other choice is to block the nipple at the block and the one at the alternator.

spurvo

here's where the rear hose from the TB to the block goes, wrt the block location...

spurvo

and with it installed... as you can see, to install this hose on an engine already in the car is less than fun!!

spurvo

lastly, the hose from the housing goes here...

Snook

iTrader: (12)

spurvo that was very kind of you to post those pictures. I had already figured it out since I tore down everything to the motor but it was cool to see it on your pictures too.

What I did now was route it from the engine block to the top of the tb and then down through the tb and into that and around behind the alternator and then connected that to the pipe that goes to the back of the thermo housing. How does that sound since I don't have the sequential ****? I know its right though it just makes sense

THANKS GUYS!

SPOautos

Thats the way its hooked up stock. It goes from teh back of the engine block to the firewall side of the tb, then thru the tb coming out the bottom and making a sharp 90 into a hard line. Then the hard line runs across the engine, turns into a rubber line and goes into the back of the water pump.

What I did was just take the hose on the engine block and run it under the uim and into the back of the water pump which eliminates the tb coolant.

And if you do that, yes, you will need to do the deal where you adjust that screw for the fast idle.

Sorry I wasnt much help earlier but I havent been on the forum as much lately

STEPHEN

Snook

iTrader: (12)

SPO good explanation mine was hoked up like yours is but now I changed it to flow coolant through the tb again.

another way to do the tb coolant removal is to just put the line from the engine to top of tb to the line underneath the tb and just cap both coolant holes on the tb. thats how it is on the rob site any way and yeah then you have to adjust the fast idle cam so it doesnt think the car is cold all the time.

its okay everyone else helped a lot and when I looked hard at my engine it was common sense and I figured it out alone any way.

I do need help on my non sequential post though.
perhaps you could help me with another problem. If you have the bnrs Im guessing you run them non sequential. I still have no idea how to hook up the omp for non sequential. there are 2 lines made of clear boost gauge hose that run from the omp to the top of the motor. On the one closest to the front of the car there is a nipple on top and I can't find another nipple. People are saying to run a line from the hard turbo inlet tube and then T it off into 2 lines and put those lines on top of the engine. Now I understand how to do that (except for that I see 1 nipple not 2) but what does that have to do with the omp? the nipple that I see is right next to where the omp line plugs in so maybe those have something to do with each other and are somehow connected? So people don't actually touch the omp lines going to the motor. I'm going to change mine out to silicone hoses because the material there now is very brittle and I'm sure it has a crack in it.

thanks for any help and I'll point out what im taking about in spurvos pic.

puma

iTrader: (2)

don't do that Yanni

leave those little line there.

the OMP sends oil in this, if you change the size, it won't work anymore. anyway, you won't be able to plug them at the nipple, you'll understand when you see it. the nipple on top of them (there is on per rotor by the way) needs to be on the vaccum side of the turbo, this is what actuate the oil or what helps the oil to go in the housing, it needs to be connected.

like you were told, run on hose from the intake elbow before the primary turbo and T them for the 2 nipples

puma

Snook

iTrader: (12)

frigen forum

Snook

iTrader: (12)

the yellow goes back to the turbo inlet and the black one is the stock omp lines that have oil in them.
All good? IF so YES! I get to drive my car tommorrow first time in 4 days


I know that I shouldn't mess with them but they are very brittle and im worried about them cracking. I will check for cracks and to make sure that they are connected tight instead of changing them. It looks like normal boost line and I'd like to change them if I could since im in there....

Thanks for all the help guys and I will make a new diagram for non sequential for morons like me that don't get it as quick. I cant wait to see how the car runs after all of the stuff that I have fixed.

puma

iTrader: (2)

yes, this is right, just look at the black line, in fact, there is some sort of protector over the "boost gauge" line, we can see them very well on the pic.

the way you connected them is correct