Where to go through firewall- AVC-R install
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Where to go through firewall- AVC-R install
Another newb question I'm afraid. Yes, I did search. I wish I had Mahjik's Magic as far as searching goes.
I'm going to attempt to install an AVC-R boost controller. I need to find a place to pass the harness from inside the cabin to the engine bay. The solenoid and boost sensor will both be mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay so I'll probably need to go through in that general area to get to the ECU.
1) Where can I go through the firewall? (extra points for pictures!)
2) When I find the location, how much of the dash etc. do I have to dismantle to get to the location?
3) It is OK to tee off the line I use for my boost gauge for the boost sensor?
4) Any suggestions as to mounting locations for the solenoid and the boost sensor? I've got some ideas, but am always open to new ones.
5) Are there any good connectors for tapping into harness wires?
I'm going to attempt to install an AVC-R boost controller. I need to find a place to pass the harness from inside the cabin to the engine bay. The solenoid and boost sensor will both be mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay so I'll probably need to go through in that general area to get to the ECU.
1) Where can I go through the firewall? (extra points for pictures!)
2) When I find the location, how much of the dash etc. do I have to dismantle to get to the location?
3) It is OK to tee off the line I use for my boost gauge for the boost sensor?
4) Any suggestions as to mounting locations for the solenoid and the boost sensor? I've got some ideas, but am always open to new ones.
5) Are there any good connectors for tapping into harness wires?
#2
RX7FD3S
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1) Where can I go through the firewall? (extra points for pictures!)
2) When I find the location, how much of the dash etc. do I have to dismantle to get to the location?
3) It is OK to tee off the line I use for my boost gauge for the boost sensor?
4) Any suggestions as to mounting locations for the solenoid and the boost sensor? I've got some ideas, but am always open to new ones.
5) Are there any good connectors for tapping into harness wires?
2) When I find the location, how much of the dash etc. do I have to dismantle to get to the location?
3) It is OK to tee off the line I use for my boost gauge for the boost sensor?
4) Any suggestions as to mounting locations for the solenoid and the boost sensor? I've got some ideas, but am always open to new ones.
5) Are there any good connectors for tapping into harness wires?
1) there's a rubber plug/tube toward the bottom between the ABS and UIM, poke a hole or lift one side open and stick a long wire or some sort through into the interior. I usually just straighten a metal wire hanger. wrap tape around the end where you stick into the interior with the plug you're pulling through to the engine bay, tight enough so the plug won't slip off, then pull the metal wire out from the engine bay and u'll have ur wire for the boost gauge.
2.) don't need to dismantle any dash. might need to lift up passenger side carpet to help see the metal wire coming through
3.) yes, or directly from a vaccum nipple from the UIM.
4.) i'm using the existing hole on the side wall near the ABS unit where people usually mount the engine torque damper bracket
5.) yes, there are plenty. anything powered by your ignition has a good wire. easy one to use is your cigaret lighter plug.
#5
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It depends on where you want to mount the unit in the cabin. IMHO there is no reason to put a hole through the steering boot when there are perfect grommets already. There are three in the driver side fender well, and one or two on the passenger side. Remove your tire and rear fender liner and you will see them. If you want to mount the unit on the driver side in the cabin go through the driver side wheel well or vice versa.
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OK. I kept trying to search for "firewall" etc...
Is this the boot that the main wiring harness goes through?
I didn't make myself very clear. The AVC-R requires that you tap into a number of wires on the ECU harness. I'm wondering if their is a cleaner method than just stripping a section of wire, soldering, and wrapping with tape. Would wire taps be secure enough for this? If not wire taps, are their three-way connectors that could be used instead? Anyone ever done this?
On the passenger side it looks like their may be a good route that way. I'll check.
I don't think I can go through the drivers side. The solenoid and sensor will be mounted on the passenger side in the engine bay since that is close to the turbos. The ECU is behind the passenger kick plate. The AVC-R harness isn't long enough to go from the passenger side of the engine, to the driver side, through the firewall, and then to the ECU. It would be different of course if I had a rhd car.
1) there's a rubber plug/tube toward the bottom between the ABS and UIM, poke a hole or lift one side open and stick a long wire or some sort through into the interior. I usually just straighten a metal wire hanger. wrap tape around the end where you stick into the interior with the plug you're pulling through to the engine bay, tight enough so the plug won't slip off, then pull the metal wire out from the engine bay and u'll have ur wire for the boost gauge.
5.) yes, there are plenty. anything powered by your ignition has a good wire. easy one to use is your cigaret lighter plug.
It depends on where you want to mount the unit in the cabin. IMHO there is no reason to put a hole through the steering boot when there are perfect grommets already. There are three in the driver side fender well, and one or two on the passenger side. Remove your tire and rear fender liner and you will see them. If you want to mount the unit on the driver side in the cabin go through the driver side wheel well or vice versa.
I don't think I can go through the drivers side. The solenoid and sensor will be mounted on the passenger side in the engine bay since that is close to the turbos. The ECU is behind the passenger kick plate. The AVC-R harness isn't long enough to go from the passenger side of the engine, to the driver side, through the firewall, and then to the ECU. It would be different of course if I had a rhd car.
#9
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I didn't make myself very clear. The AVC-R requires that you tap into a number of wires on the ECU harness. I'm wondering if their is a cleaner method than just stripping a section of wire, soldering, and wrapping with tape. Would wire taps be secure enough for this? If not wire taps, are their three-way connectors that could be used instead? Anyone ever done this?
We all know what it is like to try to solder in the footwell of a Mazda RX-7. The patch harness allows for easy installation and removal of aftermarket electronic devices without modifying, and possibly damaging, the factory wiring harness. Electronics such as Boost Controllers, Gauges, Super AFC, Resistors for Low Impedence Injectors, etc., can all be soldered into the patch harness outside the car. Original Equipment Manufacture (OEM) connectors, plugs and contacts are used, which allows the harness to easily plug into position.
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For tapping wires inside the cabin I like to use vampire clips (maybe these are the wire taps you refer to). I have used them for years on wideband and datalogging hardware without problems. The best part is that they really don't damage the original harness, and they are easy to remove.
In the engine bay I prefer a good quality crimp connector or solder. Crimping is often preferred to solder connections in a vibration rich environment. I have seen more than one R/C plane crash because of a failed solder joint.
Also, Banzai's ECU patch harness is an excellent option.
In the engine bay I prefer a good quality crimp connector or solder. Crimping is often preferred to solder connections in a vibration rich environment. I have seen more than one R/C plane crash because of a failed solder joint.
Also, Banzai's ECU patch harness is an excellent option.
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For tapping wires inside the cabin I like to use vampire clips (maybe these are the wire taps you refer to). I have used them for years on wideband and datalogging hardware without problems. The best part is that they really don't damage the original harness, and they are easy to remove.
In the engine bay I prefer a good quality crimp connector or solder. Crimping is often preferred to solder connections in a vibration rich environment. I have seen more than one R/C plane crash because of a failed solder joint.
Also, Banzai's ECU patch harness is an excellent option.
#14
RX7FD3S
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sorry dhays, i knew ur talking about avc-r, but when i started answering i was thinking about boost gauge... my bad... but firewall rubber, is still the same.. i personally prefer passenger side than driver since wastegate actuators are on passenger side.
so to make up for my mistake, i found u some wire diagrams u can check with ur avc-r instructions
http://www.plxdevices.com/ECUDatabas..._RX7_93_95.pdf
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...Mazda_RX-7.php
just splice in the necessary wires to matching wires to the AVC-R bundle. hope this helps
buying the Banzai plugs would be more ideal so you don't slit open ur factory harness
so to make up for my mistake, i found u some wire diagrams u can check with ur avc-r instructions
http://www.plxdevices.com/ECUDatabas..._RX7_93_95.pdf
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...Mazda_RX-7.php
just splice in the necessary wires to matching wires to the AVC-R bundle. hope this helps
buying the Banzai plugs would be more ideal so you don't slit open ur factory harness
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http://www.plxdevices.com/ECUDatabas..._RX7_93_95.pdf
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...Mazda_RX-7.php
just splice in the necessary wires to matching wires to the AVC-R bundle. hope this helps
buying the Banzai plugs would be more ideal so you don't slit open ur factory harness
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...Mazda_RX-7.php
just splice in the necessary wires to matching wires to the AVC-R bundle. hope this helps
buying the Banzai plugs would be more ideal so you don't slit open ur factory harness
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