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Where to go through firewall- AVC-R install

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Old May 15, 2008 | 12:43 AM
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Where to go through firewall- AVC-R install

Another newb question I'm afraid. Yes, I did search. I wish I had Mahjik's Magic as far as searching goes.

I'm going to attempt to install an AVC-R boost controller. I need to find a place to pass the harness from inside the cabin to the engine bay. The solenoid and boost sensor will both be mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay so I'll probably need to go through in that general area to get to the ECU.

1) Where can I go through the firewall? (extra points for pictures!)
2) When I find the location, how much of the dash etc. do I have to dismantle to get to the location?
3) It is OK to tee off the line I use for my boost gauge for the boost sensor?
4) Any suggestions as to mounting locations for the solenoid and the boost sensor? I've got some ideas, but am always open to new ones.
5) Are there any good connectors for tapping into harness wires?
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Old May 15, 2008 | 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by dhays
1) Where can I go through the firewall? (extra points for pictures!)
2) When I find the location, how much of the dash etc. do I have to dismantle to get to the location?
3) It is OK to tee off the line I use for my boost gauge for the boost sensor?
4) Any suggestions as to mounting locations for the solenoid and the boost sensor? I've got some ideas, but am always open to new ones.
5) Are there any good connectors for tapping into harness wires?
there should be quite a bit when you search for "boost gauge install"

1) there's a rubber plug/tube toward the bottom between the ABS and UIM, poke a hole or lift one side open and stick a long wire or some sort through into the interior. I usually just straighten a metal wire hanger. wrap tape around the end where you stick into the interior with the plug you're pulling through to the engine bay, tight enough so the plug won't slip off, then pull the metal wire out from the engine bay and u'll have ur wire for the boost gauge.
2.) don't need to dismantle any dash. might need to lift up passenger side carpet to help see the metal wire coming through
3.) yes, or directly from a vaccum nipple from the UIM.
4.) i'm using the existing hole on the side wall near the ABS unit where people usually mount the engine torque damper bracket
5.) yes, there are plenty. anything powered by your ignition has a good wire. easy one to use is your cigaret lighter plug.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 04:26 AM
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sleeper
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send your plumbing and wireing through the steering boot. it may not seems like it, but its the easiest way to go.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 05:43 AM
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+1 Steering boot surround.
Easy, Fast and plenty of room.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 07:00 AM
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It depends on where you want to mount the unit in the cabin. IMHO there is no reason to put a hole through the steering boot when there are perfect grommets already. There are three in the driver side fender well, and one or two on the passenger side. Remove your tire and rear fender liner and you will see them. If you want to mount the unit on the driver side in the cabin go through the driver side wheel well or vice versa.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 08:26 AM
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if you mount it in the cubby under the radio, which side would be best to go through
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Old May 15, 2008 | 08:35 AM
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I would go through drivers side, because that puts you right by the fuse box, and it is easy to route things from there into the cubby.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by RX7LINK
there should be quite a bit when you search for "boost gauge install"
OK. I kept trying to search for "firewall" etc...

1) there's a rubber plug/tube toward the bottom between the ABS and UIM, poke a hole or lift one side open and stick a long wire or some sort through into the interior. I usually just straighten a metal wire hanger. wrap tape around the end where you stick into the interior with the plug you're pulling through to the engine bay, tight enough so the plug won't slip off, then pull the metal wire out from the engine bay and u'll have ur wire for the boost gauge.
Is this the boot that the main wiring harness goes through?

5.) yes, there are plenty. anything powered by your ignition has a good wire. easy one to use is your cigaret lighter plug.
I didn't make myself very clear. The AVC-R requires that you tap into a number of wires on the ECU harness. I'm wondering if their is a cleaner method than just stripping a section of wire, soldering, and wrapping with tape. Would wire taps be secure enough for this? If not wire taps, are their three-way connectors that could be used instead? Anyone ever done this?

Originally Posted by RXtacy
It depends on where you want to mount the unit in the cabin. IMHO there is no reason to put a hole through the steering boot when there are perfect grommets already. There are three in the driver side fender well, and one or two on the passenger side. Remove your tire and rear fender liner and you will see them. If you want to mount the unit on the driver side in the cabin go through the driver side wheel well or vice versa.
On the passenger side it looks like their may be a good route that way. I'll check.

Originally Posted by RXtacy
I would go through drivers side, because that puts you right by the fuse box, and it is easy to route things from there into the cubby.
I don't think I can go through the drivers side. The solenoid and sensor will be mounted on the passenger side in the engine bay since that is close to the turbos. The ECU is behind the passenger kick plate. The AVC-R harness isn't long enough to go from the passenger side of the engine, to the driver side, through the firewall, and then to the ECU. It would be different of course if I had a rhd car.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 10:25 AM
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I didn't make myself very clear. The AVC-R requires that you tap into a number of wires on the ECU harness. I'm wondering if their is a cleaner method than just stripping a section of wire, soldering, and wrapping with tape. Would wire taps be secure enough for this? If not wire taps, are their three-way connectors that could be used instead? Anyone ever done this?
Banzai racing makes a "patch harness" for just such a purpose check it out.



We all know what it is like to try to solder in the footwell of a Mazda RX-7. The patch harness allows for easy installation and removal of aftermarket electronic devices without modifying, and possibly damaging, the factory wiring harness. Electronics such as Boost Controllers, Gauges, Super AFC, Resistors for Low Impedence Injectors, etc., can all be soldered into the patch harness outside the car. Original Equipment Manufacture (OEM) connectors, plugs and contacts are used, which allows the harness to easily plug into position.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 10:27 AM
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http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/boost_avc_r_install.htm

http://www.fd3s.net/avc-r_install.html
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Old May 15, 2008 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by RXtacy
Banzai racing makes a "patch harness" for just such a purpose check it out.
Wow, that is a great idea. Could you tell I was little nervous about screwing up my wiring harness? I definitely check it out. Thanks.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 12:49 PM
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For tapping wires inside the cabin I like to use vampire clips (maybe these are the wire taps you refer to). I have used them for years on wideband and datalogging hardware without problems. The best part is that they really don't damage the original harness, and they are easy to remove.

In the engine bay I prefer a good quality crimp connector or solder. Crimping is often preferred to solder connections in a vibration rich environment. I have seen more than one R/C plane crash because of a failed solder joint.

Also, Banzai's ECU patch harness is an excellent option.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by afterburn27
For tapping wires inside the cabin I like to use vampire clips (maybe these are the wire taps you refer to). I have used them for years on wideband and datalogging hardware without problems. The best part is that they really don't damage the original harness, and they are easy to remove.
That is what I was referring to, yes. It seems they should work well if the connection is good.

In the engine bay I prefer a good quality crimp connector or solder. Crimping is often preferred to solder connections in a vibration rich environment. I have seen more than one R/C plane crash because of a failed solder joint.
Fortunately, I won't have to make any connections in the engine bay for this.

Also, Banzai's ECU patch harness is an excellent option.
Yeah, but very, VERY pricey. I don't suppose anyone knows of a less expensive supplier for these?
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Old May 15, 2008 | 03:11 PM
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sorry dhays, i knew ur talking about avc-r, but when i started answering i was thinking about boost gauge... my bad... but firewall rubber, is still the same.. i personally prefer passenger side than driver since wastegate actuators are on passenger side.

so to make up for my mistake, i found u some wire diagrams u can check with ur avc-r instructions

http://www.plxdevices.com/ECUDatabas..._RX7_93_95.pdf

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...Mazda_RX-7.php

just splice in the necessary wires to matching wires to the AVC-R bundle. hope this helps

buying the Banzai plugs would be more ideal so you don't slit open ur factory harness
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Old May 15, 2008 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7LINK
http://www.plxdevices.com/ECUDatabas..._RX7_93_95.pdf

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...Mazda_RX-7.php

just splice in the necessary wires to matching wires to the AVC-R bundle. hope this helps

buying the Banzai plugs would be more ideal so you don't slit open ur factory harness
Those diagrams are great! I've got other diagrams for the connectors, but nothing that complete. Thanks a lot. I may bite the bullet on that patch harness. Lots of money, but a whole lot easier and I'm not screwing up my factory harness. May be worth it in the long run.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 05:47 PM
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banzai makes great products. /looking forward to my auto tranny harness!
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