everytime when I pedal to the metal, I always get small wave of exhaust smell in the cabin. Is this normal?

 

no

 

I think you know the answer to that. What street car promotes exhaust smell into the cabin as a nice feature?

I would start by checking these things:

1. Brake booster line. It has a check valve in it which if fails, can send and exhaust type smell back through the vacuum assisted brake system and into the cabin.

2. Aluminum check valve on the purge control line to the UIM.

 

Well, the high flowing cat will be letting more of the exhaust crap out the back, but it shouldn't be getting into the cabin.

 

does this happen with the windows up?

 

mahjik - thanks again for the tip, I will take a look at it.

in the mean time, i'll cover up the smell with air freshner...lol

 

start with the easy stuff like mahjik said...i had a gas smell at wot and had already pulled the rails and injectors only to discover it was the aluminum check valve i failed to even test when i did my vacuum hose job. lesson learned for me.

 

how do I know if the aluminum valve is broken?

 

If pressure can flow in a direction other than the arrow. Having a mityvac is very helpful, but just the blow test is usually good enough.

 

I'll do the blow test...if it's bad, is this something I can pick up from Autozone or it's dealer only part?

 

Bap/geon had it as the PCV valve. Farily expensive if you get the OEM style. I would recommend just trying to find a sturdy aftermarket check valve.

 

I've never heard of this problem before

 

The blow test will tell you if the valve is sticking badly, but it will not tell you if the valve can sustain more than what your mouth can suck and blow. I had a valve that seemed to pass my personal blow test, but failed the MityVac test. Unless you're the queen of all Saigon ******, I really doubt you can blow 12PSI+ (remember, the check valves see pressure BEFORE the IC, thus it's higher than the pressure at the manifold) and suck 25in/hg+.

But yeah, you can pick them up in at most auto stores. The brand "Help!" usually has them in packaged form. Though, they have 0psi break pressure and small nipples. If you choose to use these, do know that they last nowhere near the life of the stock check valves (which are $40+ each) nor anywhere near those with Viton valves. Also, to tackle the smaller nipple issue, you can just use zipties.

 

PCV valve OEM# NF01-13-890 is 17.38 from ray @ Malloy.

do it right.

 

i get a gas smell when i let OFF the throttle after WOT. i think its coming from my BOV. i'm assuming its cause i'm running mad rich

 

I would like to do it right and that's what'll I'll order. Even if it's not broken, $17.38 is a small investment.

 

NF01-13-890 is the PCV valve.

N3A1-13-890 is the aluminum check valve that runs to the purge control solenoid. $21.

Dave

 

what dave said

i was getting my info off the invoice and that is how it was listed. the metal check valve is the only valve i have ever bought from malloy. i dont know why it was on the invoice like that.

just ask Ray for the metal check valve.

 

I changed the aluminum valve...still getting the smell. What to do?

 

I have the recall kit but I believe the previous owner already did the recall. I might just put in new ones just to see if it helps. I have 2 hoses in the recall kit, one with the check valve and one without...the hose without the valve, where does it go? Can i just pull out the stock ones and change these? No fluids go through these right?

 

bring this from the dead....I changed the brake booster line finally but i am still getting exhaust smell in cabin whenver i WOT. Something's leaking right?