When engines break (with pics)....
#126
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Originally Posted by maxcooper
............I'm not the first to try this. Forum member Batman tried it before I did and probably has more miles on his engine already.
-Max
-Max
There are guys that ceramic coat their piston face on turbo'd engines with no problems. I really don't see any difference between pistons and rotories on this matter.
#127
The rotor faces might actually see less stress and wear compared to piston faces considering their motion in the motor, and so the coatings could possibly last longer on rotors than pistons.
#129
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BTW, I have added some updates to my thread on ceramic coating:
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/pics-my-ceramic-coated-rotors-313436/
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/pics-my-ceramic-coated-rotors-313436/
#131
Well, not much to update on....
I got the corner seal springs and the oil control ring spring from Ray. Unfortunately, one of the rotors was damaged in the shipping back from SwainTech. With the help of a local friend (ebb on the forum), hopefully it will still work. The corner seal seat and the apex corner both need to be machined a little to work. ebb was able to grind out enough for the corner seal, the apex is next (he's a dentist so he has those fine grinders at work ).
If it's not one thing, it's another.... In the process of trying to get the corner seal seat going, a few of them were sacrificed for the greater good. I have 4 of them coming early next week from Ray.
Also, I never received the replacement bolts from Gotham so I'm ordering the Moroso replacements that Dale recommended from Summit:
Moroso Oil Pan Stud Kit
Hopefully, next week will be a better week....
I got the corner seal springs and the oil control ring spring from Ray. Unfortunately, one of the rotors was damaged in the shipping back from SwainTech. With the help of a local friend (ebb on the forum), hopefully it will still work. The corner seal seat and the apex corner both need to be machined a little to work. ebb was able to grind out enough for the corner seal, the apex is next (he's a dentist so he has those fine grinders at work ).
If it's not one thing, it's another.... In the process of trying to get the corner seal seat going, a few of them were sacrificed for the greater good. I have 4 of them coming early next week from Ray.
Also, I never received the replacement bolts from Gotham so I'm ordering the Moroso replacements that Dale recommended from Summit:
Moroso Oil Pan Stud Kit
Hopefully, next week will be a better week....
#134
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Nice rollbar, Kyle....
I'd love to see some photos of the installed bar and your comments on both installation, fitment, and any interference issues with "daily driving".
I think we're still neck-and-neck here...
I'd love to see some photos of the installed bar and your comments on both installation, fitment, and any interference issues with "daily driving".
I think we're still neck-and-neck here...
#135
Haven't we ALL heard this
Originally Posted by Mahjik
Well, not much to update on....
I got the corner seal springs and the oil control ring spring from Ray. Unfortunately, one of the rotors was damaged in the shipping back from SwainTech. With the help of a local friend (ebb on the forum), hopefully it will still work. The corner seal seat and the apex corner both need to be machined a little to work. ebb was able to grind out enough for the corner seal, the apex is next (he's a dentist so he has those fine grinders at work ).
If it's not one thing, it's another.... In the process of trying to get the corner seal seat going, a few of them were sacrificed for the greater good. I have 4 of them coming early next week from Ray.
Also, I never received the replacement bolts from Gotham so I'm ordering the Moroso replacements that Dale recommended from Summit:
Moroso Oil Pan Stud Kit
Hopefully, next week will be a better week....
I got the corner seal springs and the oil control ring spring from Ray. Unfortunately, one of the rotors was damaged in the shipping back from SwainTech. With the help of a local friend (ebb on the forum), hopefully it will still work. The corner seal seat and the apex corner both need to be machined a little to work. ebb was able to grind out enough for the corner seal, the apex is next (he's a dentist so he has those fine grinders at work ).
If it's not one thing, it's another.... In the process of trying to get the corner seal seat going, a few of them were sacrificed for the greater good. I have 4 of them coming early next week from Ray.
Also, I never received the replacement bolts from Gotham so I'm ordering the Moroso replacements that Dale recommended from Summit:
Moroso Oil Pan Stud Kit
Hopefully, next week will be a better week....
Reason being because if you look at some spots on the housings, irons, and front cover the thread holes go all the way thru. So, the stud will never tighten.
And also, I didn't want to use the studs in the front cover....because I feared it would be to hard to drop the oil pan when the engine is in the car....considering the tight clearance between the front of the pan and the steering rack.
HOWEVER, since I did the oil pan baffle....that means two gaskets and a sea of rtv. Having the studs made it soooo much easier to align that mess.
#136
Originally Posted by rebuild FD
mahjik,
what made you decide to go with the rotary aviation 2 mm seals vs. 3 mm seals rynberg is pushing? ha
what made you decide to go with the rotary aviation 2 mm seals vs. 3 mm seals rynberg is pushing? ha
Originally Posted by rynberg
Nice rollbar, Kyle....
I'd love to see some photos of the installed bar and your comments on both installation, fitment, and any interference issues with "daily driving".
I think we're still neck-and-neck here...
I'd love to see some photos of the installed bar and your comments on both installation, fitment, and any interference issues with "daily driving".
I think we're still neck-and-neck here...
I think you are still going to beat me back on the road.
Originally Posted by Wankel7
Yeah, I got the moroso stud kit. Your gonna find your still using about half of your old bolts or long bolts.
#137
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
I'm not upgrading current set. I did purchase a used set to play with though. I'm researching to see if there is anything cost effective that can be done with them. It really seems as if there isn't a whole lot that can be done (to produce decent results) without going to the extreme like Brian at BNR does (or M2 did with their turbos).
Actually, I'd like to try and make them spool even quicker even if it cost me some high -end.
Actually, I'd like to try and make them spool even quicker even if it cost me some high -end.
I'm trying to decide which way to go on this myself...most places don't recommend trying to rebuild the stockers, but Jason claims he has a guy who does a good job with them
#138
Originally Posted by rebuild FD
anything new on this? sounds like the '99s would be the way to go, if you have another $2500 laying around
I'm trying to decide which way to go on this myself...most places don't recommend trying to rebuild the stockers, but Jason claims he has a guy who does a good job with them
I'm trying to decide which way to go on this myself...most places don't recommend trying to rebuild the stockers, but Jason claims he has a guy who does a good job with them
I haven't had time to mess with researching anything to make the stockers spool faster (for a non-seq conversion). Once I get the engine and everything taken care of, I'll probably look into it. Right now, those extra turbos are just a spider house.
Just a small update: Had some time today to work on the wiring harness. Re-wrapped most of the engine side using Summit X-Treme Tape .
Also replaced the crappy screws on the solenoid rack with some allen bolts. I highly recommend replacing those screws with something else if you have the rack out. Most of the screws just stripped immediately so it would be worth the effort to take care of them while it's out of the car.
#139
No real updates. ebb was able to mill down the rotor enough for the seal to fit. He left on vacation for the week so I'll check the tolerances on the rotor when he gets back next week to see if it's ok to be used. I could have gotten the rotor the night before he left, but it just wasn't that big of a deal to me.
Above are a few pics of the stuff waiting to go back together (last pic the radiator hoses).
#141
Originally Posted by rynberg
your engine bay will be prettier...
Originally Posted by rynberg
What's the deal with those rad hoses?
#143
Nothing good to report.
Apparently, I grinded one of the side seals down a little too far (if you are wondering why I needed to grind down the side seals: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits_faq.htm ). When rechecking the tolerances today as I attempted to assemble, one of them was out of spec. Oh well.
Next, the teflon inner seals wanted to be VERY problematic. No matter how much Hylomar was used, they didn't want to stay in the grooves. As you can imagine, that made putting the intermediate plate in next to impossible. So far, I'm not very happy with the RA kit.
My suggestion to any novice doing their own rebuild, use the OEM parts. If you want to use different Apex seals, go for it but everything else go OEM. I'm sure there are little tricks to get the teflon inner seals to say in place that the experience builders would probably have no problem with... However, I've had it with them. When I order a replacement side seal, I'm replacing the inner seals with OEM.
Apparently, I grinded one of the side seals down a little too far (if you are wondering why I needed to grind down the side seals: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits_faq.htm ). When rechecking the tolerances today as I attempted to assemble, one of them was out of spec. Oh well.
Next, the teflon inner seals wanted to be VERY problematic. No matter how much Hylomar was used, they didn't want to stay in the grooves. As you can imagine, that made putting the intermediate plate in next to impossible. So far, I'm not very happy with the RA kit.
My suggestion to any novice doing their own rebuild, use the OEM parts. If you want to use different Apex seals, go for it but everything else go OEM. I'm sure there are little tricks to get the teflon inner seals to say in place that the experience builders would probably have no problem with... However, I've had it with them. When I order a replacement side seal, I'm replacing the inner seals with OEM.
#145
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this may sound really stupid,,,and i may get burned alive,,,,but my teflon rings kept falling out,,,,i glued them with a very tiny bit of super glue at like 5 small points to hold them in there groove (i couldnt afford to have the rings trapped out of the groove,,,,this worked for me,,but others may have better ideas)
#147
Originally Posted by tkuwaha
Gently stretching the RA inner water seals by hand worked for me.
Originally Posted by tiger18
this may sound really stupid,,,and i may get burned alive,,,,but my teflon rings kept falling out,,,,i glued them with a very tiny bit of super glue at like 5 small points to hold them in there groove (i couldnt afford to have the rings trapped out of the groove,,,,this worked for me,,but others may have better ideas)
Originally Posted by quicksilver_rx7
Couldn't you use a dab of brake pad grease to hold them in
#148
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4 questions
1. i thought you had to have a rollcage in order to autocross NE WAYS>
2. ever thought about the BNR turbos to use. (you could still stay sequential but with a little extra UMFF)
3. Isnt it true that not matter what kind of seals you have if the denotation is to severe neither one of them will hold!
4. So whats left to be done on the car? LOOks to be a clean & neat engine bay
1. i thought you had to have a rollcage in order to autocross NE WAYS>
2. ever thought about the BNR turbos to use. (you could still stay sequential but with a little extra UMFF)
3. Isnt it true that not matter what kind of seals you have if the denotation is to severe neither one of them will hold!
4. So whats left to be done on the car? LOOks to be a clean & neat engine bay
#149
Originally Posted by darkphantom
1. i thought you had to have a rollcage in order to autocross NE WAYS>
Originally Posted by darkphantom
2. ever thought about the BNR turbos to use. (you could still stay sequential but with a little extra UMFF)
Originally Posted by darkphantom
3. Isnt it true that not matter what kind of seals you have if the denotation is to severe neither one of them will hold!
Originally Posted by darkphantom
4. So whats left to be done on the car? LOOks to be a clean & neat engine bay
#150
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Sorry about your troubles with the seals, Kyle. I had a discussion about the upgraded cooling seals with my builder and ended up just going with stock seals...
Hopefully once you get your seals in, the rest of the motor build goes smoothly...good luck!
Hopefully once you get your seals in, the rest of the motor build goes smoothly...good luck!