When engines break (with pics)....
#101
Hi Mahjik,
This post is very very inspiring. I'm a new FD owner and newbie to the rotary scene..just reading this post makes me feel that, maybe, just maybe I'm up for controlling that beast of mine..
Thanks again
This post is very very inspiring. I'm a new FD owner and newbie to the rotary scene..just reading this post makes me feel that, maybe, just maybe I'm up for controlling that beast of mine..
Thanks again
#102
Originally Posted by DFW RX-7 Cook
Well I know that you should get a least 5 more RWHP from my polishing process. I can't devulge super secret HP gain numbers from the coating process. It's secret, But I can assure you that its way more than a Vinyl Decal! LOL!
I hope that you enjoy the parts and I appreciate the mention in the tread. Free advertising has never hurt.
I hope that you enjoy the parts and I appreciate the mention in the tread. Free advertising has never hurt.
Originally Posted by M104-AMG
All this talk of "carbon build-up" has me worried.
Should I stick with my stock ECU ?
Will the M2 Stage III be too rich ?
Is the only way to be sure is to dyno it with a wide-band O2-sensor ?
BTW: I'm planning to install a free-flow metallic catalytic converter.
Should I stick with my stock ECU ?
Will the M2 Stage III be too rich ?
Is the only way to be sure is to dyno it with a wide-band O2-sensor ?
BTW: I'm planning to install a free-flow metallic catalytic converter.
IMO, if you are happy with your car as it is and there are no problems, leave it alone. If you plan on getting into tracking the car, then there are some other things you should consider doing to the car.
Originally Posted by M104-AMG
Most of all, good luck. I'd like to do the same to my blown motor . . .
#103
Originally Posted by IamRobbyah
Mahjik:
I always love to see custom build ups. My motor just went (still need to get a compression test). I would love to be able to do a complete overhaul like yours, but broke college student + poor wages = one very sad fd driver. Once I get the comp. checked, I'll be able to start my build-up. Hopefully the guy I bought the car from, might be able to lend a hand. So far I have ~ 2,000 saved up. I just can't wait to get started.
Your doing a great job so far, keep up the good work. I look forward to watch your progress in the future.
I always love to see custom build ups. My motor just went (still need to get a compression test). I would love to be able to do a complete overhaul like yours, but broke college student + poor wages = one very sad fd driver. Once I get the comp. checked, I'll be able to start my build-up. Hopefully the guy I bought the car from, might be able to lend a hand. So far I have ~ 2,000 saved up. I just can't wait to get started.
Your doing a great job so far, keep up the good work. I look forward to watch your progress in the future.
Originally Posted by F0RSAKEN
Awsome work so far man, hope everything goes smoothly 'till its all buttoned back up. And ouch about the taxes damn man, its nice being poor, I dont make enough for them to take money from me, so I still get almost half of them back, 1.5k (helps being in college )
Originally Posted by b0ng
Hi Mahjik,
This post is very very inspiring. I'm a new FD owner and newbie to the rotary scene..just reading this post makes me feel that, maybe, just maybe I'm up for controlling that beast of mine..
Thanks again
This post is very very inspiring. I'm a new FD owner and newbie to the rotary scene..just reading this post makes me feel that, maybe, just maybe I'm up for controlling that beast of mine..
Thanks again
#105
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Well you know me I want to be conservitive about the hp numbers.
Or maybe if you'd asked for the High HP polish I would have used the Special Blue spotted Rouge during the polish. LOL...
Or maybe if you'd asked for the High HP polish I would have used the Special Blue spotted Rouge during the polish. LOL...
#106
Just an update:
Rotary Aviation 2mm Master Rebuild Kit (and gasket kit) ordered this week (about $1250 total).
SS OMP Lines and Oil Pan Brace ordered from Gotham Racing (about $270).
Thermal Pellet replacement from Atkins (about $20 with shipping).
Hoping to have the engine put together as soon as everything arrives (maybe in less than 2 weeks).
Ceramic coated downpipe arrived from DFW RX-7 Cook last week. I'll take pictures but it's not that interesting.
Turbos, secondary intake inlet and Y-pipe are done being polished. I just need to get over to RTS3GEN's house some time this year for pickup.
I'll get some pics this weekend.
Rotary Aviation 2mm Master Rebuild Kit (and gasket kit) ordered this week (about $1250 total).
SS OMP Lines and Oil Pan Brace ordered from Gotham Racing (about $270).
Thermal Pellet replacement from Atkins (about $20 with shipping).
Hoping to have the engine put together as soon as everything arrives (maybe in less than 2 weeks).
Ceramic coated downpipe arrived from DFW RX-7 Cook last week. I'll take pictures but it's not that interesting.
Turbos, secondary intake inlet and Y-pipe are done being polished. I just need to get over to RTS3GEN's house some time this year for pickup.
I'll get some pics this weekend.
Last edited by Mahjik; 05-19-05 at 09:18 AM.
#108
Originally Posted by Wankel7
The thermal pelete bypass comes with teh RA kit.....
To late to stop the atkins shipment?
To late to stop the atkins shipment?
BTW, the RA kit arrived today. I have the oil pan brace and the SS lines from Gotham as well. Gotham let me know that the wrong bolts were shipped with the oil pan brace and that they were sending me the correct ones (good customer service).
I have my daughter's birthday party this weekend so I'll start assembling next weekend (I have instructor work for the track this coming week so I won't be able to get started until the weekend).
#109
Mahjik,
This thread really hits home; My engine is just now getting rebuilt. I too had the rear rotor spit and chew up a seal. I ended up with 1 "newsed" rotor and 2 housings. Unfortunately, if the rebuild was left up to me it would never get done. So, I have it being rebuilt by a local rotory mechanic with lots of experience.
Even though it is going to cost more I would like to make sure that as the engine goes back in I take care of the 'other' things that will make my setup last. Therefore, a couple of questions:
1) My mechanic is trying to convince me to leave the twins for a monogamous relationship . I insist that twins are more fun than one but he maintains that monogamy is much less stressful. Seriously, he claims that the reduced parts count of the single turbo should make the setup more reliable and the single turbo should also reduce heat production as well as give more room for air flow (cooling).
2) I saw some carbon build up on my rotors that concerned me. Is there anything I can do with the stock ECU? I am not interested in the track at all and more than likely will not be road racing. Some ‘aggressive’ driving between home and work from time to time will be the extent of it. With that said I do not think I need the upgrade ECU.
Downpipe and intake is the only mod I am thinking of right now, unless I am convinced on the single turbo. I am getting all the hoses replaced (silicone), coolant system flushed, fuel pump checked out, injectors checked and cleaned, and, of course the wires and plugs.
Am I missing anything here?
This thread really hits home; My engine is just now getting rebuilt. I too had the rear rotor spit and chew up a seal. I ended up with 1 "newsed" rotor and 2 housings. Unfortunately, if the rebuild was left up to me it would never get done. So, I have it being rebuilt by a local rotory mechanic with lots of experience.
Even though it is going to cost more I would like to make sure that as the engine goes back in I take care of the 'other' things that will make my setup last. Therefore, a couple of questions:
1) My mechanic is trying to convince me to leave the twins for a monogamous relationship . I insist that twins are more fun than one but he maintains that monogamy is much less stressful. Seriously, he claims that the reduced parts count of the single turbo should make the setup more reliable and the single turbo should also reduce heat production as well as give more room for air flow (cooling).
2) I saw some carbon build up on my rotors that concerned me. Is there anything I can do with the stock ECU? I am not interested in the track at all and more than likely will not be road racing. Some ‘aggressive’ driving between home and work from time to time will be the extent of it. With that said I do not think I need the upgrade ECU.
Downpipe and intake is the only mod I am thinking of right now, unless I am convinced on the single turbo. I am getting all the hoses replaced (silicone), coolant system flushed, fuel pump checked out, injectors checked and cleaned, and, of course the wires and plugs.
Am I missing anything here?
#110
Can you use race gas safely in a car that isn't tuned for it? Will it have any benefits?
I'm just starting to track my car and have upgraded the oil coolers and radiator, I'm looking for any other engine safety improvements I can find before I end up in your shoes with a blown motor.
I'm just starting to track my car and have upgraded the oil coolers and radiator, I'm looking for any other engine safety improvements I can find before I end up in your shoes with a blown motor.
#111
Originally Posted by arios01
1) My mechanic is trying to convince me to leave the twins for a monogamous relationship . I insist that twins are more fun than one but he maintains that monogamy is much less stressful. Seriously, he claims that the reduced parts count of the single turbo should make the setup more reliable and the single turbo should also reduce heat production as well as give more room for air flow (cooling).
Reliable is a relative term. What your mechanic is deeming as reliable/unreliable may not be the same to another person. It is true that the sequential turbo control system can be a nightmare when/if problems arise. However, going with a single turbo setup isn't all that easy on the wallet (from a relatively stock FD that is).
It really depends on what you want out of the car.
Originally Posted by arios01
2) I saw some carbon build up on my rotors that concerned me. Is there anything I can do with the stock ECU?
1. Run a piggyback like the S-AFC to fine tune the stock map
2. Occasionally do the ATF/Water treatment to help burn off any carbon build up
I wouldn't really worry about it too much. I would just keep up with your normal maintenance and enjoy the ride.
Originally Posted by arios01
Downpipe and intake is the only mod I am thinking of right now, unless I am convinced on the single turbo. I am getting all the hoses replaced (silicone), coolant system flushed, fuel pump checked out, injectors checked and cleaned, and, of course the wires and plugs.
Am I missing anything here?
Am I missing anything here?
1. Upgrade the radiator (all metal of some sort, aluminum, copper, whatever)
2. Downpipe
3. Remove/replace the AST to an aluminum one
4. Do the Miata/FC thermoswitch replacement
5. Make sure you have a boost and afermarket water temp gauge
6. Keep up with your normal maintenance (oil, fuel filter, etc)
As far as power mods, I wouldn't add anything else except for maybe an aftermarket catback (Racing Beat Dual or something). Leave the rest of the stuff alone and enjoy the car.
Originally Posted by jayk
Can you use race gas safely in a car that isn't tuned for it? Will it have any benefits?
#112
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Originally Posted by arios01
1) My mechanic is trying to convince me to leave the twins for a monogamous relationship .?
Originally Posted by arios01
2) I saw some carbon build up on my rotors that concerned me.
Can you use race gas safely in a car that isn't tuned for it? Will it have any benefits?
I'm just starting to track my car and have upgraded the oil coolers and radiator, I'm looking for any other engine safety improvements I can find before I end up in your shoes with a blown motor.
I'm just starting to track my car and have upgraded the oil coolers and radiator, I'm looking for any other engine safety improvements I can find before I end up in your shoes with a blown motor.
Do not run leaded race gas in your car if you are fairly close to stock -- there is no need and it will kill your oxygen sensor and cat.
#113
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
I have my daughter's birthday party this weekend so I'll start assembling next weekend (I have instructor work for the track this coming week so I won't be able to get started until the weekend).
Who knows, at this rate you may beat me back on the road...
#114
Rotary Enthusiast
arios01...
... changing to a single turbo pretty much mandates a reprogrammed ECU since going single changes the dynamics of the engine a lot. So if you don't want to change the ECU from stock you need to keep the turbos and engine stock.
... changing to a single turbo pretty much mandates a reprogrammed ECU since going single changes the dynamics of the engine a lot. So if you don't want to change the ECU from stock you need to keep the turbos and engine stock.
#115
Originally Posted by rynberg
Good luck, with both the party and your motor...
Who knows, at this rate you may beat me back on the road...
Who knows, at this rate you may beat me back on the road...
Thanks! I doubt I'll beat you back on the road. Unfortunately I still have a laundry list of things to order once the engine is built. But, it will be nice to have my garage desk back without an engine (in pieces) on it.
#117
Well, today didn't go as I had planned.
I had to prep the side housings (since they were lapped). Not a problem; wet sanded them down, washed them and then blew them dry with compressed air. However, when assembling the rotors, I found out that I either don't have or lost the corner seal springs.
My rebuild kit was knocked over in the garage (everything still in it's individual packaging, just the shipping box was knocked over) by my daughter last week. It's possible that they are in the garage hidden, however, I'm not too sure I had them in the beginning. Thanks to ebb here on the forum for helping me look around the garage for them (and for digging in my shop-vac with me ).
Anyway, I'll be calling Ray tomorrow for the hook up as I also need to replace one of the oil control ring springs. I'll post some pics when it's in one piece.
I had to prep the side housings (since they were lapped). Not a problem; wet sanded them down, washed them and then blew them dry with compressed air. However, when assembling the rotors, I found out that I either don't have or lost the corner seal springs.
My rebuild kit was knocked over in the garage (everything still in it's individual packaging, just the shipping box was knocked over) by my daughter last week. It's possible that they are in the garage hidden, however, I'm not too sure I had them in the beginning. Thanks to ebb here on the forum for helping me look around the garage for them (and for digging in my shop-vac with me ).
Anyway, I'll be calling Ray tomorrow for the hook up as I also need to replace one of the oil control ring springs. I'll post some pics when it's in one piece.
#118
Wow, Mahjik...I didn't know you were going through all of this motor rebuild drama. I am using the Powercore cat that you plan on using and can report that it is fantastic upgrade. Keep us posted with pics.
Sonny
Sonny
#119
Originally Posted by rynberg
Define "race gas". I run 100 octane unleaded whenever I go to the track (road racing). It is a VERY good idea to run 100 octane unleaded when stressing the car like that, much safer! Although it certainly does add to the cost of a track day....hmm....5-6 mpg on the track, 10 laps/session, 4 sessions, 3-mile track = 20+ gallons of $5+/gallon gas = $100+ in fuel....
Do not run leaded race gas in your car if you are fairly close to stock -- there is no need and it will kill your oxygen sensor and cat.
I'm actually not sure what kind of gas it is, I'll check this weekend. Its whatever they sell at VIR. So if its unleaded its safe and possibly a good idea to prevent detonation, definetly stay away from leaded though...
#123
Thanks guys.
Don't worry gnx7, this won't eclipse a mighty LS1. Hopefully it will just be a little more track worthy so I can just enjoy the car. At least, that's my hope.
Just an update, Ray at Malloy hooked me up and the springs are now here. I'll get the engine assembled this weekend.
Don't worry gnx7, this won't eclipse a mighty LS1. Hopefully it will just be a little more track worthy so I can just enjoy the car. At least, that's my hope.
Just an update, Ray at Malloy hooked me up and the springs are now here. I'll get the engine assembled this weekend.
#124
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
New things going into the new motor:
SwainTech ceramic coated rotors ($300):
SwainTech ceramic coated rotors ($300):
http://www.illstreet.com/gallery/batman/CCR1
http://www.illstreet.com/gallery/batman/CCR2
#125
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Originally Posted by maxcooper
I don't have anything bad to report. The rotors haven't hit the housings, and the coating doesn't seem to be flaking off (no evidence of particles in the exhaust path).
I did a little mileage test and got 22MPG, which is pretty darn good for my car.
-Max
I did a little mileage test and got 22MPG, which is pretty darn good for my car.
-Max
Ditto. Also noticed a little better MPG after the ceramic coating.
I talked to the guy that did it and he said that may have something to do with better thermal efficiencies.
Of course I don't know either way since there is no scientific measurement on the matter.
But it sure made sense to me.