Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Tyler,

Ya, I expected a few problems. If everything went smooth then I would lose some respect for the real engine builders for who it all the time.

Order placed with Malloy Mazda this morning. Parts should be here Wednesday so I'll scrape out the Hylomar out of the seal grooves in a day or two and get ready to do it again.

HDP

iTrader: (2)

What is Hylomar? I searched and read that it's some sort of sealant, but what exactly is it?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Hylomar® is a polyester polyol–based compound that turns from a gel into flexible putty within minutes of application. Originally developed by Rolls Royce, where it performed under the most stringent aerospace tolerances, Hylomar brings superior qualities to automotive applications. Its non-hardening formula maintains seal integrity even when subjected to thermal distortion and vibration.



Hylomar is impervious to oil, gasoline, glycol and other engine fluids. Hylomar is oxygen-sensor safe, seals gaps .01" or less, and performs at constant temperatures up to 600°F. With Hylomar, components are assembled, reused and reassembled with ease. Use Hylomar for thin gaps without a gasket or as a gasket dressing. It holds the gasket in place during assembly as well as giving a great seal.

Hope that helps.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

There we go, the assembled motor. Yes, the rotor housings are a different color. I bought one used and didn't feel like repainting it.



Above, the shot of the Racing Engine studs.

A note on the engine studs: They are designed to act like dowels so they should get screwed in before you start placing the housings on top of the front side housing. I didn't really look at them closely enough before hand, but we were able to screw them in with some Home Depot nuts and then get them torqued down.

The stock torque specs are around 28 ft/lbs for the engine studs. I used 45 ft/lbs for these.

The motor did make the "6 chugs" so it at least has some compression. Hopefully all will be well when it gets dropped back into the car. I'll post more pics as I get components stuck on but that's about all of my "allowed" garage time today.

I'd like to thank a few people who have helped get it this far:

Matt and Matt (two local mechanic guru's that always help get dirty)
RotaryResurrection (for answering n00b questions )
CrispyRX7 (always good to have input from people "in the know")
RTS3GEN (just "da man" when it comes to these cars)
Rynberg & AdamC & Damonb (for bugging me to get something done )

rynberg

Haha, great to hear, Kyle! I really hope you don't have any more issues and everything goes smoothly....good luck.

BTW, your motor is further along than mine....

poss

iTrader: (5)

Obviously too late now, but for future reference, the teflon encapsulated o-rings from McMaster-Carr were very easy to work with.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/ENGINE/...ING/tefsil.htm
FEP-Encapsulated Silicone O-Ring As568A Dash Number 175
Part # 9319K239

JaNusSolSumnus

Mahjik, What is the rear rotor housing coated in, spray on ceramic?

I'm thinking of coating my side/intermediate housings with ceramic as well as the exhaust header and exhaust side of the turbos... not sure if its worth it but it came out great on yours.

~Kris

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

None of my housings are coated with anything but Hi-Temp paint.

Honestly, I'm not sure what good it would do to coat them with anything. Coolant will be running through there all the time so it really shouldn't matter all that much.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Me too! However, I've learned not to be that optimistic with this car.

Ugh! Well, having it the way you want it will make it all worth it in the end.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

To be honest, I really don't think it matters all that much on the different o-rings. For me, I'm probabaly more likely to blow another seal before killing a coolant o-ring.

RTS3GEN

Thanks Kyle,
Wish I was closer so I could get dirty too! Like the idea for the racing studs. I'm going to talk with Cam this week about these. Wonder if you could replace the stockers while the motor is still together. BTW, like the torque specs!!!! Nice compromise. Cam is torquing his race engines to 50ft/lbs after I told him I torque my engine bolts to 58ft/lbs!
Art

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Art!

I was debating between 40 and 45ft/lbs and just figured what the heck.

As far as replacing your stock engine studs, I don't think that would be a good idea (I'm not sure releasing the torque on the plates would be a good thing if the engine isn't going to come apart). I'd just wait for your motor to "give up the ghost". You have a magic formula that has been working for years, so don't change it now!

DS2000

Great thread Kyle

When (I'm not going to say IF with this car) mine goes bang I hope to do the rebuild myself.

DamonB

I didn't hear anything about the wife nagging you to do it so some of us had to jump in

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Well, I finally got around to getting the endplay tolerance checked out today. I need a new spacer, but other than that things are looking good so far.

HDP

iTrader: (2)

No new/additional pics?

rynberg

Good to hear. Good luck finishing her up.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Well, it's not too interesting right now with just a few things added onto the front of the e-shaft for tolerance testing. Once I get the front cover on, the oil pain sealed, etc... then I'll snap a few pics since those will at least show some decent progress over the last pics.

Thanks. For the next 2 weeks, Malloy Mazda will be my buddy!

JaNusSolSumnus

Better hurry with your buddy, I hear prices are on the rise.... I'm a sad panda still since I cant find a decent housing to save my life.... I feel like I'm never going to have a running car again.

Hopefully by this time next year I'll be able to do my own rebuilds (I plan on picking up a blown FC to play with) and wont have as much to worry about the next time the FD decides to get 'touchy'.

~Kris

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Well, I'm more concerned with taking my time and doing a decent job than the OEM part prices right now. I don't want to rush and mess up more than I probably already have!

Check with herblenny. His mechanic had a few rotors and housings a while back (which I ended up buying my replacement from).

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Thanks to the boys at http://www.dpeweb.com for hooking me up with the Greddy parts (catch can, 2 peak/hold temp gauges for water/oil, and the profec).



The race radiator from RadiatorWorld.com. Some people were interested in the size of it so I use a coupler to show the thickness.

aspirao

that is the best way to doit taking your time

FCdemon

Mahjik, I'm really sorry, but I'm going to have to be another hater-- if you are truly serious about performance, the money for a real standalone (haltech, motec, etc) is well worth the investment.. you could find one for less than the cost of your chrome plating.

Maybe you think that your ECU wasn't the cause of the failure, but even so wouldn't you like better control of the tune of your engine? You have to have seen the condition your wiring harness was in-- i'm guessing it was bad? Haha.. mine was completely toast when I took it out. With a standalone, the car will simply run better than with the stock ECU and harness, from my experience anyway.

Good luck with everything and hope your car does what you want it to in the end.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The ceramic coating wasn't done for "performance". If I was really that concerned about performance, I wouldn't be keeping the stock twins. The ceramic coating was done to help reduce the amount of heat the engine absorbs, to aid in cooler temps (hopefully) on the track. The only modification done "to make more power" was the intake porting (and that wasn't a large port either). As you can see, I'm not going for all out power.

While a programmable standalone is the best option for ECU control, for my needs it just doesn't fit at this stage (and for this project). I have witnessed several cars being beat on at the track for the past 5+ years using the Pettit ECU without problems. Since Pettit only has one map, I know the ECU was not the cause of my problem (but I knew that long before).

I'm not saying I'll never have a programmable standalone ECU, it's just not in the scope/budget for this project. When/if I go with a programmable standalone, I'll just go with a small single turbo setup as well. However, I'll most likely sell the car and build a track-only NSX before I would go through that.

Mine wasn't in horrible shape. But I figured while it was out, I would rewrap parts of it to help preserve it as best I can.

quicksilver_rx7

Kyle,

Any updates? I'm sure I'm not the only anxious person here.

Joe