If the material were to flake off it would have the consistency of most paints.

There are guys that ceramic coat their piston face on turbo'd engines with no problems. I really don't see any difference between pistons and rotories on this matter.

 

The rotor faces might actually see less stress and wear compared to piston faces considering their motion in the motor, and so the coatings could possibly last longer on rotors than pistons.

 

neither faces should have any contact if that is what ur referring to.

or are u talking about stress from the combustion events?

 

BTW, I have added some updates to my thread on ceramic coating:

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/pics-my-ceramic-coated-rotors-313436/

 

I'd assume that is what he is reffering to

 

Well, not much to update on....

I got the corner seal springs and the oil control ring spring from Ray. Unfortunately, one of the rotors was damaged in the shipping back from SwainTech. With the help of a local friend (ebb on the forum), hopefully it will still work. The corner seal seat and the apex corner both need to be machined a little to work. ebb was able to grind out enough for the corner seal, the apex is next (he's a dentist so he has those fine grinders at work ).

If it's not one thing, it's another.... In the process of trying to get the corner seal seat going, a few of them were sacrificed for the greater good. I have 4 of them coming early next week from Ray.

Also, I never received the replacement bolts from Gotham so I'm ordering the Moroso replacements that Dale recommended from Summit:

Moroso Oil Pan Stud Kit

Hopefully, next week will be a better week....

 

I did have a few goodies show up this week.

 

mahjik,

what made you decide to go with the rotary aviation 2 mm seals vs. 3 mm seals rynberg is pushing? ha

 

Nice rollbar, Kyle....

I'd love to see some photos of the installed bar and your comments on both installation, fitment, and any interference issues with "daily driving".

I think we're still neck-and-neck here...

 

Yeah, I got the moroso stud kit. Your gonna find your still using about half of your old bolts or long bolts.

Reason being because if you look at some spots on the housings, irons, and front cover the thread holes go all the way thru. So, the stud will never tighten.

And also, I didn't want to use the studs in the front cover....because I feared it would be to hard to drop the oil pan when the engine is in the car....considering the tight clearance between the front of the pan and the steering rack.

HOWEVER, since I did the oil pan baffle....that means two gaskets and a sea of rtv. Having the studs made it soooo much easier to align that mess.

 

Most of the rebuilders usually recommend keeping the rotors at 2mm seals unless there is damage and they need to be milled to fix the damage. My rotors in the beginning were fine, so I opted to stay with 2mm. However, given that one came back damaged, 3mm may end up happening if we can't get the damage repaired and still kept in tolerance.


Thanks! However, don't count on hearing too much daily driving experience with it. from me It will be hard to use the RX-7 during the heat of the summer with the M3 around.

I think you are still going to beat me back on the road.


If I can use at least have of them, I'll be more than happy.

 

anything new on this? sounds like the '99s would be the way to go, if you have another $2500 laying around

I'm trying to decide which way to go on this myself...most places don't recommend trying to rebuild the stockers, but Jason claims he has a guy who does a good job with them

 

The '99s aren't much of an improvement over the stocker's (at least for more power). IMO, unless you have un-useable cores, I wouldn't go with '99s.

I haven't had time to mess with researching anything to make the stockers spool faster (for a non-seq conversion). Once I get the engine and everything taken care of, I'll probably look into it. Right now, those extra turbos are just a spider house.


Just a small update: Had some time today to work on the wiring harness. Re-wrapped most of the engine side using Summit X-Treme Tape .

Also replaced the crappy screws on the solenoid rack with some allen bolts. I highly recommend replacing those screws with something else if you have the rack out. Most of the screws just stripped immediately so it would be worth the effort to take care of them while it's out of the car.

 

No real updates. ebb was able to mill down the rotor enough for the seal to fit. He left on vacation for the week so I'll check the tolerances on the rotor when he gets back next week to see if it's ok to be used. I could have gotten the rotor the night before he left, but it just wasn't that big of a deal to me.

Above are a few pics of the stuff waiting to go back together (last pic the radiator hoses).

 

Ooohhh, fun!

I might beat you back on the road, but your engine bay will be prettier...

Everything looks good. What's the deal with those rad hoses?

 

I don't know about that. It will have some shine, but I don't think I'll be competing with your engine bay.

They are the SS Flex hoses from Summit (I'm building an account there I guess). Not sure how well they'll work out, but I had to try 'em. They just looked too cool not to.

 

Mahjik, I am really looking forward to the final product, I dont know if I will be able to look directly at it though lol

 

Nothing good to report.

Apparently, I grinded one of the side seals down a little too far (if you are wondering why I needed to grind down the side seals: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits_faq.htm ). When rechecking the tolerances today as I attempted to assemble, one of them was out of spec. Oh well.

Next, the teflon inner seals wanted to be VERY problematic. No matter how much Hylomar was used, they didn't want to stay in the grooves. As you can imagine, that made putting the intermediate plate in next to impossible. So far, I'm not very happy with the RA kit.

My suggestion to any novice doing their own rebuild, use the OEM parts. If you want to use different Apex seals, go for it but everything else go OEM. I'm sure there are little tricks to get the teflon inner seals to say in place that the experience builders would probably have no problem with... However, I've had it with them. When I order a replacement side seal, I'm replacing the inner seals with OEM.

 

Gently stretching the RA inner water seals by hand worked for me.

 

this may sound really stupid,,,and i may get burned alive,,,,but my teflon rings kept falling out,,,,i glued them with a very tiny bit of super glue at like 5 small points to hold them in there groove (i couldnt afford to have the rings trapped out of the groove,,,,this worked for me,,but others may have better ideas)

 

Couldn't you use a dab of brake pad grease to hold them in

 

Stretching them wasn't the problem. The problem was that the Hylomar couldn't hold it in place long enough. The stretch worked just fine for the front side housing (since it just lays on top). It was the intermediate plate where it had to hold the seal from dropping as you manipulate around the shaft where it didn't help.

I'm not to keen on the glue idea as I thought about that first.

I doubt brake pad grease is any sticker than Hylomar.

 

4 questions

1. i thought you had to have a rollcage in order to autocross NE WAYS>

2. ever thought about the BNR turbos to use. (you could still stay sequential but with a little extra UMFF)

3. Isnt it true that not matter what kind of seals you have if the denotation is to severe neither one of them will hold!

4. So whats left to be done on the car? LOOks to be a clean & neat engine bay

 

For AutoX? I don't AutoX but that's never been a require for the people that do.

Yes, I thought about them but it's not in the budget for this project. I would most likely go with an Apexi single turbo setup before using BNR's though.

Yes, pretty much. However, the seals I'm talking/complaining about are the coolant seals, not the apex seals.

Basically, stuff just needs to be installed after the engine gets assembled. I still have stuff to purchase: gauges are being swapped out for GReddy peak/hold gauges, midpipe with a welded in metallic substrate cat, and a lengthy list of a few other things.

 

Sorry about your troubles with the seals, Kyle. I had a discussion about the upgraded cooling seals with my builder and ended up just going with stock seals...

Hopefully once you get your seals in, the rest of the motor build goes smoothly...good luck!