Hi Mahjik,

This post is very very inspiring. I'm a new FD owner and newbie to the rotary scene..just reading this post makes me feel that, maybe, just maybe I'm up for controlling that beast of mine..

Thanks again

 

Once again Anthony, thanks for all the great work. However, I was expecting about 15rwhp increase from the polishing since car wax is good for 5rwhp increase.

Carbon build-up is always a concern. However, getting a PFC (in itself) isn't a magic fix. Getting a programmable ECU and having a proper tune (together) is the best of all solutions but not always viable for every owner.

IMO, if you are happy with your car as it is and there are no problems, leave it alone. If you plan on getting into tracking the car, then there are some other things you should consider doing to the car.

Thanks!

 

Good luck on your project! Keep in mind, I'm not saying "this is the way to rebuild a 13B-REW", this is just the way I want to do it. At least this way, if something doesn't work, it's my own mistake/problem.

Yea, the taxes hurt but it's only a setback. I'll get going back again sometime in May. I still have the oil cooler and other things to get things fabbed up and mounted. I'm going to be sandblasting a few parts this coming week to get some powercoating done. I'll post some pics when I have those back.

Thanks and good luck with the car! It can be a handful (as well as a wallet-full!).

 

just gettin started

 

Well you know me I want to be conservitive about the hp numbers.
Or maybe if you'd asked for the High HP polish I would have used the Special Blue spotted Rouge during the polish. LOL...

 

Just an update:

Rotary Aviation 2mm Master Rebuild Kit (and gasket kit) ordered this week (about $1250 total).

SS OMP Lines and Oil Pan Brace ordered from Gotham Racing (about $270).

Thermal Pellet replacement from Atkins (about $20 with shipping).

Hoping to have the engine put together as soon as everything arrives (maybe in less than 2 weeks).


Ceramic coated downpipe arrived from DFW RX-7 Cook last week. I'll take pictures but it's not that interesting.

Turbos, secondary intake inlet and Y-pipe are done being polished. I just need to get over to RTS3GEN's house some time this year for pickup.

I'll get some pics this weekend.

 

The thermal pelete bypass comes with teh RA kit.....

To late to stop the atkins shipment?

 

Yea, I noticed that after placing the order. I never noticed that in the RA kit before but then again I never thought I would be rebuilding the engine. No biggie, I'll have an extra should someone local want/need one.

BTW, the RA kit arrived today. I have the oil pan brace and the SS lines from Gotham as well. Gotham let me know that the wrong bolts were shipped with the oil pan brace and that they were sending me the correct ones (good customer service).

I have my daughter's birthday party this weekend so I'll start assembling next weekend (I have instructor work for the track this coming week so I won't be able to get started until the weekend).

 

Mahjik,
This thread really hits home; My engine is just now getting rebuilt. I too had the rear rotor spit and chew up a seal. I ended up with 1 "newsed" rotor and 2 housings. Unfortunately, if the rebuild was left up to me it would never get done. So, I have it being rebuilt by a local rotory mechanic with lots of experience.

Even though it is going to cost more I would like to make sure that as the engine goes back in I take care of the 'other' things that will make my setup last. Therefore, a couple of questions:

1) My mechanic is trying to convince me to leave the twins for a monogamous relationship . I insist that twins are more fun than one but he maintains that monogamy is much less stressful. Seriously, he claims that the reduced parts count of the single turbo should make the setup more reliable and the single turbo should also reduce heat production as well as give more room for air flow (cooling).
2) I saw some carbon build up on my rotors that concerned me. Is there anything I can do with the stock ECU? I am not interested in the track at all and more than likely will not be road racing. Some ‘aggressive’ driving between home and work from time to time will be the extent of it. With that said I do not think I need the upgrade ECU.

Downpipe and intake is the only mod I am thinking of right now, unless I am convinced on the single turbo. I am getting all the hoses replaced (silicone), coolant system flushed, fuel pump checked out, injectors checked and cleaned, and, of course the wires and plugs.

Am I missing anything here?

 

Can you use race gas safely in a car that isn't tuned for it? Will it have any benefits?

I'm just starting to track my car and have upgraded the oil coolers and radiator, I'm looking for any other engine safety improvements I can find before I end up in your shoes with a blown motor.

 

For the most part, a larger single turbo running lower boost which may produce the same amout of power or more than the stock twins will run cooler and have less complexity under the hood.

Reliable is a relative term. What your mechanic is deeming as reliable/unreliable may not be the same to another person. It is true that the sequential turbo control system can be a nightmare when/if problems arise. However, going with a single turbo setup isn't all that easy on the wallet (from a relatively stock FD that is).

It really depends on what you want out of the car.

There's not a whole lot you can do with the stock ECU. Using the stock ECU, you have basically a few options:

1. Run a piggyback like the S-AFC to fine tune the stock map
2. Occasionally do the ATF/Water treatment to help burn off any carbon build up

I wouldn't really worry about it too much. I would just keep up with your normal maintenance and enjoy the ride.

IMO, if you want a "reliable" FD, do the following:

1. Upgrade the radiator (all metal of some sort, aluminum, copper, whatever)
2. Downpipe
3. Remove/replace the AST to an aluminum one
4. Do the Miata/FC thermoswitch replacement
5. Make sure you have a boost and afermarket water temp gauge
6. Keep up with your normal maintenance (oil, fuel filter, etc)

As far as power mods, I wouldn't add anything else except for maybe an aftermarket catback (Racing Beat Dual or something). Leave the rest of the stuff alone and enjoy the car.

Sure. It's more of a reduced risk of pre-detonation when running hotter engine temps. Tuning for race gas just allows you to advance the timing more than you normally would to eek out some more performance. Running it without tuning just allows you a more of a safeguard for reducing the chances of pre-detonation.

 

So your car is completely stock? And the builder is suggesting a single turbo? Hmm...single turbo conversion on stock car = $8k minimum.

Some carbon build-up is normal.

Define "race gas". I run 100 octane unleaded whenever I go to the track (road racing). It is a VERY good idea to run 100 octane unleaded when stressing the car like that, much safer! Although it certainly does add to the cost of a track day....hmm....5-6 mpg on the track, 10 laps/session, 4 sessions, 3-mile track = 20+ gallons of $5+/gallon gas = $100+ in fuel....

Do not run leaded race gas in your car if you are fairly close to stock -- there is no need and it will kill your oxygen sensor and cat.

 

Good luck, with both the party and your motor...

Who knows, at this rate you may beat me back on the road...

 

arios01...

... changing to a single turbo pretty much mandates a reprogrammed ECU since going single changes the dynamics of the engine a lot. So if you don't want to change the ECU from stock you need to keep the turbos and engine stock.

 

Thanks! I doubt I'll beat you back on the road. Unfortunately I still have a laundry list of things to order once the engine is built. But, it will be nice to have my garage desk back without an engine (in pieces) on it.

 

Good luck with all that man, so far all the stuff you have gotten looks great. Its very cool to see all the labor and dedication you have put into it this car. Very Very nice.

 

Well, today didn't go as I had planned.

I had to prep the side housings (since they were lapped). Not a problem; wet sanded them down, washed them and then blew them dry with compressed air. However, when assembling the rotors, I found out that I either don't have or lost the corner seal springs.

My rebuild kit was knocked over in the garage (everything still in it's individual packaging, just the shipping box was knocked over) by my daughter last week. It's possible that they are in the garage hidden, however, I'm not too sure I had them in the beginning. Thanks to ebb here on the forum for helping me look around the garage for them (and for digging in my shop-vac with me ).

Anyway, I'll be calling Ray tomorrow for the hook up as I also need to replace one of the oil control ring springs. I'll post some pics when it's in one piece.

 

Wow, Mahjik...I didn't know you were going through all of this motor rebuild drama. I am using the Powercore cat that you plan on using and can report that it is fantastic upgrade. Keep us posted with pics.

Sonny

 

I'm actually not sure what kind of gas it is, I'll check this weekend. Its whatever they sell at VIR. So if its unleaded its safe and possibly a good idea to prevent detonation, definetly stay away from leaded though...

 

that looks pretty amazing.... looks like you will have a bad *** combo this time around. Ceramic coating on the rotors and polished everything..... NICE!

Keep us posted when you hit the track and/or dyno. SHould be impressive.

 

Majik = RX-7 hero!!

 

Majik,
Nice Work ther

 

Thanks guys.

Don't worry gnx7, this won't eclipse a mighty LS1. Hopefully it will just be a little more track worthy so I can just enjoy the car. At least, that's my hope.

Just an update, Ray at Malloy hooked me up and the springs are now here. I'll get the engine assembled this weekend.

 

That looks familar.

http://www.illstreet.com/gallery/batman/CCR1

http://www.illstreet.com/gallery/batman/CCR2

 

Ditto. Also noticed a little better MPG after the ceramic coating.

I talked to the guy that did it and he said that may have something to do with better thermal efficiencies.

Of course I don't know either way since there is no scientific measurement on the matter.

But it sure made sense to me.