AH! I pic of a 93 Touring spare tire well, they do have sound deadening where the 93 R1 does not (OEM).

Looks good. I'm glad to see your doing a good job!

 

I have no idea what the real condition of the reman was before it was put in the car. However, the engine blew because of the following reasons:

* The car was really not "track worthy". While it did last 2 good years of tracking, I never invested the money to really make it last on the track.

a) Not using race gas on the track
b) Running too high of boost on the track for extended periods
c) Engine temps soared while in the middle of the session. I didn't have a gauge with peak warning (that will be changed) so I have no idea how long my temps were beyond the point of no return. While there was no warping from the heat, I'll bet that the heat coupled with leaky injectors and lower octane (and an old reman) was the combination for disaster.

The problem is that this track session was the first time had I used R-Compound. I had been using some old crappy Goodyears for the last 2 years which were crap on the track but I was never able to push the car hard enough to worry about anything. The R-Compound allowed me to run the car a lot harder than I had before in which case it just couldn't handle it at it's current setup.

So, the some things that will remedy the problems which are going in:

Aluminum Race Radiator
Mocal 19-Row oil cooler
Ceramic coated parts to help keep the engine from ingesting too much heat
Replacing my temp gauge with one that has peak warning (as when I'm on the track I'm not starring at my gauges all the time.

Had I not been tracking the car, the engine would still be running (but I wouldn't be enjoying the car nearly as much).

Thank Jeff. My "kung-fu" is not nearly as good as yours or Jim's but I'm enjoying what little bit I'm doing.


BTW, for anyone curious about the weight of the sound dampening material; the packaging came to me weighting in a 12 lbs. I would guess just under 10 pounds without the shipping material/box.

 

Prices on the coatings/polishings:

LIM - Cerama-Chrome - $150.00
Alternator - Polish & Stator Re Color (Red) - $150.00
Front Cover - Cerama-Chrome - $100.00
WPH - Cerama-Chrome - $100.00
UIM - Polish - $165.00
TB - Polish - $65.00
DP - Ceramic Coating - $125.00
Y-Pipe Crossover - Polish - $30.00
T-Stat House - Polish - $45.00

This service was provided by Anthony at AutoSound & Security.

The turbos, secondary inlet and y-pipe are being polished by a local friend (I don't just trust anyone to take apart my turbos ).

 

Switched from monitor to the laptop screen... it helped a lot... a big difference!

 

Gee shucks Kyle, I'm blushing! BTW, I'm almost finished. Need to finish polishing the secondary inlet and they're all done! Also, I thought I'd let you know that we'll miss you in 3 weeks! My RX7 crew will be down to 3 total this go around, I hope you're happy!:P
Art

 

Mahjik,

are you going to run Evan's NPG ala Max?

 

Mahjik,

any plans to run Evans NPG ala Max?

 

Curious, which one?

 

Curious, which one?

BTW, I'm a little surprised on those prices for polishing and coating. While not exactly cheap, they're not as bad as I would have expected.

 

Curious, which one?

BTW, I was a little surprised on the prices for polishing and coating. While not exactly cheap, it wasn't as bad as I would have guessed.

 

Mahjik,

any plans to run Evans NPG ala Max??

 

No problem Art,

I'll be waiting for the second batch of parts to come back maybe next month. I know you have at least 2 or 3 engine installs lined up so I'm in no hurry. Mr. V8 MX-7 (that's what I call it since it no longer has a Rotary engine in it) should be out at the track.

However, I now have something else I can track for a little bit (if I decide to) until the RX7 is back up. If you are instructing next Wednesday, you'll get a chance to take a look at it.

 

Not yet. I will probably see how my temps are with the large radiator and then decide from there.

I'm looking right now at:

* Bonez DP (already existing)
* Midpipe with RPMOutlet PowerCAT metallic substrate cat welded in

We don't have emissions testing here, but we do have visual. The inspectors aren't really that smart around here as they think Borla mufflers are cats. I just like keeping some added back pressure. My goal is to keep my car "quick", I'm not going for some super high-end powered car for the drag strip.

* HKS HiPower Catback

I like the "angled" catback so this was a good excuse to change. I've heard more HKS exhaust drone at highway speeds. So to make sure I can compensate a little, I add the sound dampening material.

The prices are good. I will warn you that the turn around time can be a while, but you can't complain about the results. Added with the polishing that RTS3GEN is doing for me, it should all turn out really nice when it goes back together.

BTW, here is RTS3GEN's car at that track event:
http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/FD...0040911_03.jpg

Just damn inspiring!

 

Mahjik, what kind of water temperture were you seeing on track?

 

Typically the car was usually around 220-225F when not pushing it too hard on the crappy street tires. However, that day with the Victoracers, when I noticed the temp gauge it was buried. I don't remember the ambient temps that day, but it was a mild day as morning sessions were quite cool.

 

Awesome thread. I don't know much about the Pettit ECU, but for some reason I think I've heard that it's a daughterboard that plugs into the stock ECU, mostly to change the fuel maps and timing, but not replacing the 8-bit processor itself. If that is the case, I'd recommend you ditch it quick-like.


Here's a link to some stuff I've posted before with reference to the differences between 8-bit and 16-bit ECUs, as well as the common processor speeds in 1993 compared to 2000:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...9&page=1&pp=15


Remember, one of the things that was updated each time there were significant changes made to the RX-7's overseas was the ECU. In '96 and again in '99, from what I understand.

-s-

 

Once again, I'm not leaving the Pettit ECU. This is not a thread I started to get suggestions on what I should or should not do. This is thread mainly for a lot of the people who PM me about "what would you do" and to give some pricing information about how much it costs to do your own rebuild.

If you take a look at RTS3GEN's car up there, it made 359.x rwhp on the Pettit ECU. He's been tracking the car for going on 5+ years now on the same engine and same ECU (road racing, drag, etc). However, his car has been built for the track, mine was not.

The ECU is not the cause for this engine failure. The cause was putting the car in a situation it was not setup for.... I knew this and did it anyway so there is no blame pushed anywhere but on myself. Had I not been tracking the car, the engine would still be in one piece today, carbon or none. However, I would not have been having as much fun as I was... This time out, the car will be built to handle being driven on the track aggresively.

 

It takes a man to admit he was the cause of the failure, and not the "crappy remans or motors."

 

I also know a few guys beating the crap out of the car on Pettit ECU's.. You would "think" they have some idea of what they are doing, yes? I think you're on the right track - keeping the ECU and building around it.

 

great thread mahjik!!

and all this time i thought you were selling/sold your car and just lurking this forum to give out good info..lol

 

Thanks. You know, when I knew it was blown I couldn't even be mad. I knew it was going to happen sooner or later. I think deep down I wanted it to happen so I could have an excuse to do the things I wanted to to do.

I think I always had a complex with "if I knew then what I know now" things when thinking back to having the dealership install a reman (and new turbos) way back when. So, this was an opprotunity to "do it my way". If my way sucks or doesn't work, it at least it will be mine.

Thanks. I don't expect the car to be back on the road until late May (as I'm still waiting on some parts to come back). Once I get it on the road and broken in, I'll put it on the dyno and see if the ceramic coatings on the rotors show any benefit directly to power. I don't have a baseline dyno from my old setup, but I'm sure there are a few dyno's around of cars with similiar setups that might be found to compare with...

If I can get around 330-340rwhp at 14 PSI, I'll be extremely happy. RTS3GEN made 359rwhp but he has a Race Port so I'm not expecting his numbers.

 

Thanks. Yea, I still have the car; only because it's paid for... I seem to be running out of time to get anything done on it lately. Now that spring is here, I hope to spend more time getting the smaller stuff out of the way until the rest of the parts are back from polishing/coating.

 

Man that is a lot of new toys! Why are you ditching the bonez hi flow for the rpm cat into a midpipe?

 

I just wanted to try something different. The Bonez worked great, no complaints. I figured if I was going to change the catback, why not change the cat as well.

 

Mahjik. What Radiator did you choose?