dexmex88

Alright, I got a compression test done and it came back totally different than I thought. I was told my front rotor's compression was good and my back rotor's was a little less than the front, but still good. I am running on the stock motor with a little over 70K. I want to keep the engine for a good 6 months more because I want to make some money and have enough money for a rebuild when the engine decides to go. I just had bought a Power FC and I am trying to decide what to do with the boost. I dont want to boost too high and put stress on the engine, but I would actually like to be able to control it sometimes. The guy tells me he could set it low with the Power FC, but if I do that it is there and can't be moved. I don't want to buy the controller with the Power FC yet because I am not going to mess with it. I could however get a boost controller. Any suggestions? I also would like to know considering I am not trying to make a ton of horses on do any racing yet, what would be suitable boost to set to keep the engine running for a good while? I mean I know it could go at anytime but I would like to try to baby it for now.

dexmex88

Also he told me something about some kind of springs set at 7 PSI and that I could go as low as that? What is that?

DCrosby

Then keep away from the Power Fc, put it away, and pull it out every once in a while in anticipation of your new motor, and upgraded Power Fc...

Anything other than lowering boost is going to cuase you troubble with an allready fragile situation, messing with boost, and fuel will break something sooner or later.

In all likelyhood sooner....

The wastegate spring, will give you 7 Psi, of boost, and unless you swap springs, or have a turbine problem, you will make 7 Psi... no matter what you set the PFC to (lower than 7psi)

nopistons94

why would he have to stay away from a power FC ? if its stock map then whats the difference, at least he can see how his cars running and be safer then a stock ECU if he wants to lower boost , just use a profec B to insure the lower boost .. but ya staying at 7 at all times would be kinda hard

SBi_Owner

I would not recomend running the power fc with a beat motor and also playing with the boost. You need to box that stuff up and put it away untill you collect everything you need to do a complete rebuild. If you feel you need to play with the power fc and a boost controller, use a wideband and tune the car to about 13afr at idle and 10.5-10.9 under boost around 10-12 psig. That puts the car in such a rich mode, you should not have a problem with the engine taking a little thrashing. You may have to watch for heavy boost spikes that can play hell with the engine. I can't tell you what to do, but I would not mess with it too much till you get a rebuild going and do it all at once.

Just my two cents

Adam

dexmex88

Well I have done all my mods at one time, downpipe, exhaust, intake, looking for a high flow cat, so I really want to run the PFC. But I just don't want to put any more pressure on the motor then is already on it by running high boost. I don't want to run high boost on the old motor, I want to wait until I get a rebuild to run higher boost. Can running higher boost and hurting the motor further be prevented?

DCrosby

More boost = more stress on the apex seals that are allready worn...
I say don't do it since there are more chances to "F" something up than there are for everything to go right, and for you to come out ahead...

I was in a Parts Gathering Mode for 6 Mo. Before I did my rebuild, buying clutches, flywheels, motor mounts, Clutch lines, short shifter, V-Mount, Rad, Polishing... it goes on and on... it was hard to see all that in the closet while my car was running like ****, and I knew I wanted to try all the new toys, and I have still not put on my ECU, since I have no reason to... my turbos are toast, and I need to get new ones... once I have those on, and I want to up the boost, then I'll stick on my ECU... I've had it for close to a 1.5 years now and have done a lot of reading..... and blew my first motor on poor tuning. So take it from someone that's been there, if you're afraid of the rebuild bill, don't do it, once you're ready for it, put it in and crank the boost, and see what gives first, unless you want to keep your turbos, and then don't do that !

-DC

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

No. Keep it at 10 psi (stock). downpipe catback and intake is perfect for the pfc on base map, go ahead and install it. wait on the high flow cat. There is no 'spring' on the factory internal wastegate. It is a metal flapper door controlled by a vacuum actuator.

On a properly functioning stock sequential turbo system 7 psi is the minimum you will see at the motor. If you have a boost controller and turn it off, this minimizes boost by opening the wastegate fully once the motor (and boost controller) sees 7 psi, thus diverting exhaust energy away from the turbines.

Don't play with fire, trust me on this one. You dont think these motors will blow, but they can and they will just by changing a parameter