mcfly4001

ok, im done with my swap now, but i cranked my car, and it has a rough idle, nothing terrible, but it sputters, and when i rev it, it does fine about the first two times, and then it sputters bad, and cuts out about 2500 rpms, and the check engine light blinks on while sputtering, than goes off.

it sat for a month without being cranked, and ran fine when i pulled it into the garage, so i pulled the plugs, (they have about 7000 mile on them) and they were just covered in black stuff. i cleaned them hoping they would work better, nothing, i guess they might be fouled. will they foul from just sitting there, or when i first cranked it after sitting so long?

my gas tank was nearly empty, and im thinking some condensation might have built up in the tank? what do yall think, buy some new plugs, and put some octane boost and water removal junk in the gas? would bad plugs and bad gas cause the my sputtering, and engine light to blink on? or have i messed something up during the swap?

all i have is a bov and a downpipe. engine has about 14000 miles on it. was an automatic until this month, so it has never really been ran hard,


thanks

mcfly4001

super bump!

mcfly4001

goodness, come on yall!

mcfly4001

wow

spurvo

wow is right! Too many possibilities to begin to guess... Since the check engine light came on, did you check to see if any codes were stored in the ECU?

I'm just TOTALLY throwing stuff out here, but you did update the vacuum hose setup for the manual tranny, yes?

mcfly4001

spuvo, what are u talking about, updating the hose setup for the manual tranny? no one told me about that, and what does it do, and how does it affect it, man, and yes im getting a code 30, 33, 39, i guess its something to do with my acv, but i think it was there before the swap, HELP!

mcfly4001

help

spurvo

OK, Ok, calm down a little. This will take time.

If you go here

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/vacuum.jpg

In the middle section connected to the solenoid "G", which is the double throttle control, you see there is a check valve and a vacuum chamber set up for the automatic (that is, the diagram is assuming an automatic). The manual tranny does not incorporate the vacuum chamber, nor the check valve, and instead simply operates the double throttle directly. It PROBABLY doesn't matter at all, although I could see the double throttle being actuated when it isn't supposed to be, especially if the ECU is different between the auto and the manual. I don't know enough.

I seem to recall that the ECU will run in "limp" mode when ACV components are not working correctly, so this may be the source of the problem...

mcfly4001

thanks for ur help, i will look into it, this acv thing is strange to me, i mean when i pulled the car in the garage, it ran fine, and then when i crank it up, the acv dont work, that dont make sense to me, any more thoughts, on why my acv decided to put my car in limp mode, if that is it?

mcfly4001

so are u recommending that i remove the check valve and the vacuum chamber?

r0t0r-rooter

Damn, g'luck

mcfly4001

g luck with what?

spurvo

When you were doing all this, were there three connectors toward the top of the engine, in the rear, on the pass side, under the UIM, near the ACV, that you maybe disconnected? Two of them had black connectors, the other white? Each of them have two wire going to them. I vaguely recall you replaced the engine harness, right?

The codes you are pulling are for the three solenoids in the ACV system that have connectors that go to and from the ECU. All three solenoids have black and black with white stripe on the wires that go into the solenoid, and the connectors from the ECU side have various colors, including a green/orange stripe wire (relief 2 solenoid, code 39), a blue wire (port air bypass, code 33), and a black/red stripe wire (split air bypass).

I'm fairly positive the ECU needs to see these solenoids plugged in to not run in limp mode.

Does this help?

mcfly4001

it sure does, that makes sense, but i kept the auto harness, due to several people on here, told me that i didnt need to get the manual harness, and they did not say anything about there cars having this problem after the swap, but here i am, i figure its in the wiring now, do u have any recomendations about wiring the acv up correctly to get rid of these codes?

spurvo

Well, I'd start by looking for these connectors and their respective solenoids under the UIM. It sucks to have to pull it, but I'd look into them. The fact that all three are giving codes tells me they got disconnected somewhere along the line. For that matter, do you still even HAVE the ACV?

But, you say you didn't change harness, so you have the auto harness? So what did you do with the inhibitor, reduce torque, slip lock-up and two shift solenoid signals? And how are you dealing with the lack of input for the neutral, 1st gear and 2nd gear signals?

I guess others have not dealt with these issues when they did the swap? I haven't been reading enough of those posts to be conversant, and am mostly just trying to help with what I can surmise might be the situation. Hopefully, some of the others who've done this can chime in here...

mcfly4001

im pretty sure i have the acv, i did nothing to the motor, and anything else, just swapped the tranny's.

i kept the auto harness, and i thought the auto tranny computer was what controlled the other functions that u mentioned.

but thanks a lot, i will check out those solenoids in the morning, u have been a big help, and i appreciate all the writing u did, but any more advice from anyone would be great,

thanks