What do these symtoms mean ....will crank only after the strater disengages.
#1
What do these symtoms mean ....will crank only after the strater disengages.
Just got through with a fresh rebuild and I did get it started with out much prob. The engine has about 5miles on it since. I have been having a starting problem which I never experienced before. The engine will only catch the moment I release the starter. If i crankit over, it will attempt to start but will never fully catch until I release the key/starter. When it does catch its instantanoius,not one rotor then the other. This leads me to think that its not related to low compression. If I crank it for 5 minutes straight it will intermittently fire, the moment i release the key it runs.
I was thinking voltage drop across the ignition system, or the tune in those cells around the cranking area. I did adjust them but no improvement. I have been running this same map for a while before rebuild without problems.
Any ideas?
13BREW
large street port
Haltech e8
I was thinking voltage drop across the ignition system, or the tune in those cells around the cranking area. I did adjust them but no improvement. I have been running this same map for a while before rebuild without problems.
Any ideas?
13BREW
large street port
Haltech e8
#3
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limp mode?
My Ford Fusion did this recently after I had pulled some fuses. Turned out the computer had reverted to limp mode. Starting after turning the key from the start position was really weird, but that and the fact the engine would only idle, let me know what was going on. Don't know if FD's have a limp mode.
#4
Wastegate John
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What is your cranking voltage?
When you use the starter the voltage drops. This could be lower than what is required to get a hot enough spark for ignition. Hence, when you let go of the key switch the starter stops drawing current, and the voltage rises and the spark gets hotter.
John
When you use the starter the voltage drops. This could be lower than what is required to get a hot enough spark for ignition. Hence, when you let go of the key switch the starter stops drawing current, and the voltage rises and the spark gets hotter.
John
#5
What is your cranking voltage?
When you use the starter the voltage drops. This could be lower than what is required to get a hot enough spark for ignition. Hence, when you let go of the key switch the starter stops drawing current, and the voltage rises and the spark gets hotter.
John
When you use the starter the voltage drops. This could be lower than what is required to get a hot enough spark for ignition. Hence, when you let go of the key switch the starter stops drawing current, and the voltage rises and the spark gets hotter.
John
This is what I suspect is the cause. I will tyr to think of some thing to get around this.
#7
the starter is far and away the biggest draw on the power system, you have not indicated that it is slow to crank, so i would be pretty doubtful it is the battery. now if as stated the ignition switch is acting up you may not be getting power when cranking to the FP or the ignition system,
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#8
wired to chassis ground instead of the ground on the cas sensor. I discovered it after I decided to go over my wiring. The thing about it is, even with the wrong wireing, once the car started, it ran flawlessly. Thanks for your inputs.
I now have a different problem, timing drift. I have the timing zeroed, and I am getting a slow drift towards retard as I rev with the timing locked. Perhaps 1* per 1000rpm.
Suggestions welcome.
I now have a different problem, timing drift. I have the timing zeroed, and I am getting a slow drift towards retard as I rev with the timing locked. Perhaps 1* per 1000rpm.
Suggestions welcome.
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