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What do these symtoms mean ....will crank only after the strater disengages.

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Old 08-07-11, 07:12 PM
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What do these symtoms mean ....will crank only after the strater disengages.

Just got through with a fresh rebuild and I did get it started with out much prob. The engine has about 5miles on it since. I have been having a starting problem which I never experienced before. The engine will only catch the moment I release the starter. If i crankit over, it will attempt to start but will never fully catch until I release the key/starter. When it does catch its instantanoius,not one rotor then the other. This leads me to think that its not related to low compression. If I crank it for 5 minutes straight it will intermittently fire, the moment i release the key it runs.

I was thinking voltage drop across the ignition system, or the tune in those cells around the cranking area. I did adjust them but no improvement. I have been running this same map for a while before rebuild without problems.



Any ideas?

13BREW
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Old 08-07-11, 08:36 PM
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It could be the contacts inside the ignition switch beginning to fail and when you release the key it make full contact in the run position thereby allowing it to fire. Can you get a helper to check for spark during cranking?
Old 08-07-11, 09:06 PM
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limp mode?

My Ford Fusion did this recently after I had pulled some fuses. Turned out the computer had reverted to limp mode. Starting after turning the key from the start position was really weird, but that and the fact the engine would only idle, let me know what was going on. Don't know if FD's have a limp mode.
Old 08-08-11, 12:48 AM
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What is your cranking voltage?

When you use the starter the voltage drops. This could be lower than what is required to get a hot enough spark for ignition. Hence, when you let go of the key switch the starter stops drawing current, and the voltage rises and the spark gets hotter.


John
Old 08-08-11, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by RENESISFD
What is your cranking voltage?

When you use the starter the voltage drops. This could be lower than what is required to get a hot enough spark for ignition. Hence, when you let go of the key switch the starter stops drawing current, and the voltage rises and the spark gets hotter.


John

This is what I suspect is the cause. I will tyr to think of some thing to get around this.
Old 08-08-11, 01:22 PM
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^ Search around for a starter booster... I think pettit made it.


John
Old 08-08-11, 06:08 PM
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the starter is far and away the biggest draw on the power system, you have not indicated that it is slow to crank, so i would be pretty doubtful it is the battery. now if as stated the ignition switch is acting up you may not be getting power when cranking to the FP or the ignition system,
Old 08-15-11, 10:08 AM
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wired to chassis ground instead of the ground on the cas sensor. I discovered it after I decided to go over my wiring. The thing about it is, even with the wrong wireing, once the car started, it ran flawlessly. Thanks for your inputs.

I now have a different problem, timing drift. I have the timing zeroed, and I am getting a slow drift towards retard as I rev with the timing locked. Perhaps 1* per 1000rpm.

Suggestions welcome.
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