particleeffect

i have about 10k on a new engine, rebuilt due to coolant seals so i'm paranoid...

i don't have any signs of them going, but i popped the hood after a drive today (after a slow easy cool down period of course) and there was a pretty pronounced burbling coming from the area of the turbo's i believe.

turbo's are bone stock 88k mi. slight oiling in the intake tracks and that's about it.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

You should have replaced all the water hoses with the rebuild. If you can do it yourself: Remove the two hoses to/from the turbo assembly. One on them has a rubber sleeve which is why. Remove the sleeve and check for holes, cracks, cuts, etc. You should replace it anyhow.

Probaly the first thing to do is make shure their is no air in the system. While the car is at idle, disconect the hose to the throttle body and hold it upwards. This is the highest point and the bubbles will come out. I can't remember if you have to have the filler cap off. ...anyone remember? Are you close to Pettit? They are the ones that told me how to do it.

Don't assume that there is no way the engine could have gone. Make shure you find the cause before the warranty expires.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

The gurgling sound from the turbo area is very common with stock engines. It is coolant boiling in the turbos.


With an improved coolant mixture, bigger radiator, and 16PSI/1.1 BAR radiator cap, it will not do it.

WaLieN

Isn't 16PSI a little too much for the coolant system? I mean, they did that 1.3bar -> 0.9bar coolant cap recall for a reason.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Mazda originally used poor quality hoses and water seals on the engine. They couldn't withstand the heat soak and engine overheat problems. So Mazda did a cheap fix and part of it was the lower pressure radiator cap so hoses and seals would not leak.

Remember the Mazda idiot engineers also had the thermoswitch set at 225F when the engine would fail at 240F. Just normal driving with the AC off would result in the engine running very hot most of the time. At lease the Miata had 207F thermoswitches! And they only made 140HP if they were lucky.

250Hp RX-8 is now 238Hp. And you still belive all that Mazda says, wake up!!!!!!

With a rebuilt engine and up to date cooling system which all of you SHOULD have by now, the original cap is safe.

mad_7tist

run 13 psi cap. some localized boiling of the turbo area is not a realy big deal. why exert an extra 3 pasi on the cooling sys for kicks?

particleeffect

rgr guys. any coolant hoses damn sure should have been replaced so i will burp the lines and richen up my coolant mixture (this is defenetly going to help if it's the problem since i run very little coolant now).

XSTransAm

I had a burbling sound from my turbos, it turned out my coolant lines were leaking... i replaced them with ss line, not a single problem until my engine blew anyways...