Wastegate porting with a Dremel
For those of you who don't have a die grinder, and don't want to buy one, yet have a dremel handy, it does work really well to port the wastegate/turbos as long as you have the right bits. I use carbide burrs with an 1/8th shank like these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=008
They chewed right through the cast iron with no problems, and since there's many different shapes in the little kit I got, it was really easy to get all the down in the hole.
I haven't finished it yet. I want to port it as large as possible to really prevent creep. I know of the paint method to easily see the line of how far to go, but I tried it and really like it. Does anyone have any other/better methods to outline the flapper door?
And does anyone get really different peak boost with different weather? Say in the daytime at like 75 degrees, I won't even hit 10 psi, but if I drive exactly the same way in the colder night say in the 40s, then it will creep up to like 13-14 psi sometimes.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=008
They chewed right through the cast iron with no problems, and since there's many different shapes in the little kit I got, it was really easy to get all the down in the hole.
I haven't finished it yet. I want to port it as large as possible to really prevent creep. I know of the paint method to easily see the line of how far to go, but I tried it and really like it. Does anyone have any other/better methods to outline the flapper door?
And does anyone get really different peak boost with different weather? Say in the daytime at like 75 degrees, I won't even hit 10 psi, but if I drive exactly the same way in the colder night say in the 40s, then it will creep up to like 13-14 psi sometimes.
I used a die grinder to port my waste gate, it makes a symetrical hole. And its even all around. Used the paint spray method because its easier to see your progress.
I used the dremel on other things, need to file it down afterwards because of sharp edges.
I get around 10-11 boost with little creep at the high end. It does not get 40 degree F here in Oahu, so can't tell.
I used the dremel on other things, need to file it down afterwards because of sharp edges.
I get around 10-11 boost with little creep at the high end. It does not get 40 degree F here in Oahu, so can't tell.
i am wondering the same thing. the whole wastgate porting/midpipe/boost creep situation is all a blur to me...
just so happens i purchased a black and decker dremel last night. hopefully when the time comes for porting, it will come in handy.
i've been told that in some situations there is no way to avoid creep....such as cold weather.(thats if you have a midpipe) is there any possible way to avoid boost creep or spikes? was i told wrong or does porting the wastegate and having a boost controller not totolly do the job of maintaining a steady boost?
just so happens i purchased a black and decker dremel last night. hopefully when the time comes for porting, it will come in handy.
i've been told that in some situations there is no way to avoid creep....such as cold weather.(thats if you have a midpipe) is there any possible way to avoid boost creep or spikes? was i told wrong or does porting the wastegate and having a boost controller not totolly do the job of maintaining a steady boost?
Some people add restictor plates to control boost creep. Its a trial and error thing, keep adding until creep is controlled.
Previously before installation of the rebuilt engine, I was using a straight through 4 inch exhaust. No cat, 3 inch downpipe with expansion 4 inch adaptor, then 4 inch all the way back. It was loud as hell, getting the attention from cops.
Anyways, original motor's wastegate was not ported and I had no boost creep. Only after installing the rebuilt with ported wastegate and new silicon vac hoses, did it ran over 16 psi.
Had to remove 4 inch pipe and go with 3 inches, now creep is very mimimal. But FD does not reach triple digits as fast when with the 4 inch.
Previously before installation of the rebuilt engine, I was using a straight through 4 inch exhaust. No cat, 3 inch downpipe with expansion 4 inch adaptor, then 4 inch all the way back. It was loud as hell, getting the attention from cops.
Anyways, original motor's wastegate was not ported and I had no boost creep. Only after installing the rebuilt with ported wastegate and new silicon vac hoses, did it ran over 16 psi.
Had to remove 4 inch pipe and go with 3 inches, now creep is very mimimal. But FD does not reach triple digits as fast when with the 4 inch.
Last edited by HawaiianRedMako; Nov 23, 2007 at 08:47 PM. Reason: misspelled word
after reading this post i purchased the same carbide burrs with an 1/8th shank, these things are defantly worth it. i was maily wondering how they would hold up to continued use. i used them to port my wastgate/port match the turbo housings along with lost of other stuff too and they still look and cut like new. thanks Aharada for making this post.
ryan
ryan
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dremel works great. i have one made by black and decker, a LOT cheaper and works just as good. i think i paid $30 for the basic kit and i use dremel carbide tips to cut through everything.
a really big inter cooler will also prevent or at least limit boost creep.
But by far the cheapest quick fix very ghetto method I have seen (that I would only do as an ultra short term fix for obvious reasons) is to drill a 5/16-3/8 hole in one of the couplers.
But by far the cheapest quick fix very ghetto method I have seen (that I would only do as an ultra short term fix for obvious reasons) is to drill a 5/16-3/8 hole in one of the couplers.
Harbor freight FTW. I got a nice die grinder for like $20 and a bunch of bits for like $5.
But my dad found a nice grinding wheel that works great just cant remember what kind or where he got it. The carbide cutters work good too but they arent cheap and they kept on breaking.
As for an air compressor it is a very nice thing to have. I fell in love with my Harbor Freight imapct gun. There are sooo many uses for it and make the rx7 jobs alot easier and less stripped bolts and less effort. Plus you can get a nice compressor for like $300 but just make sure you buy on with the most cfm for your money and the biggest tank.
But my dad found a nice grinding wheel that works great just cant remember what kind or where he got it. The carbide cutters work good too but they arent cheap and they kept on breaking.
As for an air compressor it is a very nice thing to have. I fell in love with my Harbor Freight imapct gun. There are sooo many uses for it and make the rx7 jobs alot easier and less stripped bolts and less effort. Plus you can get a nice compressor for like $300 but just make sure you buy on with the most cfm for your money and the biggest tank.
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