VDO oil pressure and H2O temp?
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VDO oil pressure and H2O temp?
hey guys im installing a VDO oil pressure and water temp guage. I need help to where to tap my VDO senders for a good oil and water reading.
also where to go throw the fire wall to run the wires from inside the car to the engine bay.
thanks
d mess
also where to go throw the fire wall to run the wires from inside the car to the engine bay.
thanks
d mess
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easiest place for the water temp sender is in a brass TEE in the throttle body coolant line.
Oil psi would be a replacement oil pedastel like the respeed pedastel or a sandwich plate. Be advised, the sandwich plate route has clearence issues with the TPMS.
http://mrcmfg.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=114_54 <-- respeed replacement pedastel.
The site is not updated but the pedastel now comes with one 1/4th hole and one 1/8th. Perfect for oil temp and oil psi.
Oil psi would be a replacement oil pedastel like the respeed pedastel or a sandwich plate. Be advised, the sandwich plate route has clearence issues with the TPMS.
http://mrcmfg.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=114_54 <-- respeed replacement pedastel.
The site is not updated but the pedastel now comes with one 1/4th hole and one 1/8th. Perfect for oil temp and oil psi.
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I don't have water moving through the TB. So, this is as as close as it's gonna get for my FD. I looked around it seems that BoostedPeng. is correct in that the TB is the preferred location.
I also keep an eye on my PFC which also measures temps. I watch them both like a hawk when I'm driving and have yet to notice a real significant difference in the two readings.
Just for future reference:
82C (180F): getting warm. Thermostat begins to open, circulating coolant through the radiator. Some coolant is still bypassing the radiator.
95C (203F): fully warm. Thermostat is fully open, not bypassing the radiator at all.
If I don't see the two devices in the same ballpark by 90C then I know the thermostat is malfunctioning - or that something is wrong in the cooling area and would promptly shut it down. 90c on an FD doesn't take long.
I also keep an eye on my PFC which also measures temps. I watch them both like a hawk when I'm driving and have yet to notice a real significant difference in the two readings.
Just for future reference:
82C (180F): getting warm. Thermostat begins to open, circulating coolant through the radiator. Some coolant is still bypassing the radiator.
95C (203F): fully warm. Thermostat is fully open, not bypassing the radiator at all.
If I don't see the two devices in the same ballpark by 90C then I know the thermostat is malfunctioning - or that something is wrong in the cooling area and would promptly shut it down. 90c on an FD doesn't take long.
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#8
Rotary Freak
Personally, I'd avoid brass T fittings. At least with engines that go up and down rather than round and round, very high percentage of people who do this end up with the fitting fracturing at the root of a thread.....and vital liquids evacuating.
Grommet behind the inner guard liners where the air bag sensor wires are routed are good for this - if somewhat inconvenient. If you're using a VDO capillary oil gauge as opposed to electric, might be a task though.
Grommet behind the inner guard liners where the air bag sensor wires are routed are good for this - if somewhat inconvenient. If you're using a VDO capillary oil gauge as opposed to electric, might be a task though.
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