Silver94

I have a 94 RX-7 and I need to replace all of the vacuum lines. I was woundering how many feet of vacuum line should I buy and what size should the inside diameter of the hose be?

djantlive

do a search on 'vacuum line replace' it's about 40 ft but not sure on size

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I shoulda copied it, now I gotta type again!

Don't do it! A roll of silicone hose is $60 and labor is $400 Silicone is more heat resistant but not oil resistant, but Viton is both! ...have no idea where to buy it though.

Get a silicone kit from Hose Techniques. It comes in several sizes. A roll is just one size The get Vitek sleeving and it will outlast your car!

I wish someone woulda told me that before hand!

rynberg

When I do the hose job, I definitely plan on using the Viton tubing. Why not spend a little more and get a far superior tube?

Most of the kits/things I've seen:

30-40 feet of 4mm
20 feet of 6mm

this will give you some left overs

you can get viton tubing from McMasters (get the 60 durometer)

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/G...hosedebate.pdf

scroll down to viton tubing

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

There are about 60 hoses to replace if you do all of them. You need at least two sizes of vacuum hoses, 4mm and 6mm. You will need approximately 35 feet of 4mm and about 10 feet of the 6mm and about 120, 4 inch tie-wraps. If you're planning to install a manual boost controller and a secondary turbo pre-spool controller you'll need a total of 17 feet of 6mm hose. See the Boost Controller How To. Most everyone recommends upgrading to silicone hoses and putting 4-inch plastic tie-wraps on the hose ends. You can also put a little silicone sealant on the pipes that the hoses go onto (don’t put the sealant in the hoses).

From http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/hoses.htm

Silver94

Thanks for the help from everybody. I figured it is going to cost me about 70 dollars for all hoses. And a day of working to replace them all.

rynberg

That's if you discover NO problems. You should expect to find bad or questionable check valves and you'll be lucky if you have no broken solenoids (also likely to break them removing hoses). You also might have to replace a gasket or two. Don't count on being able to drive the car right away in case you need to get parts.

BTW, I believe that you can use clamps with the viton tubing instead of the ties. You should check out www.maxcooper.com for his write up and links. He ended up not using ties.

http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/how-to/..._materials.htm

man_of_steel

if you want to spice up the engine bay, use silicone hoses for durability, dont mind spending $120 bucks, and want to eliminate the guesswork, order some for www.hosetechniques.com. I got mine in 1 1/2 weeks ago and am quite satisfied.

man_of_steel

aslo, to keep from braking the solenoid nipples (I still have to get that far), I was told use a single edges razorblade to slit this rbber hose und, and if you carefully use a slot nose screwdriver, you can avoid snappage....

wasabi

Is snappage a real word? If you go with Viton tubing you will not need to use hose clamps. The stuff is expensive but by far the best material for the job.
-MP

Jonesboro

Before you start the hose job, should also give serious consideration to doing the following at the same time because these are all parts easily accessible once you remove the parts to get to the hoses:

Check that all solenoids are operating correctly and replace the bad ones.

Check that all check valves are operating correctly and replace the bad ones.

Replace the fuel pulsation damper.

Replace the rubber "O" ring washers on the fuel injectors.

Disable the Accelerated Warming System (AWS) system, click this link for more info:

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/AWS_mod.html

Replace the manifold gaskets when reassembling.

Consider having the Upper Intake Manifold and Throttle Body polished while you have them off.

In any case, even if you do just the hose job you will NOT be able to successfully complete the job in only one day as you seem to be planning. In my opinion the key to being a good FD mechanic is to provide "more than adequate time" to complete the work and proceed without a deadline. Plan for the car to be out of action for a few days and don't be in a rush.

When you are a "mechanic in a hurry" you tend to break parts, overlook other problems, not allow time for dealing with unforeseen problems, cause problems during reassembly, and end up with a car that doesn't run properly that then becomes a major diagnostic headache.