Uninstalling the Air Pump!
11-13-03, 07:37 PM
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Uninstalling the Air Pump!
Hey guys ....I am a virgin to this site but have done a little research on how the forum operates I have just acquired a 1994 rx-7 and want to get my rx-7 as smooth as possible I was wondering by removing the air pump what kind of gains am I looking for will the engine run totally awful or in better words why the hell is it on there if it is able to be removed.I hate emissions controlling **** and want to run it as -dirty- as possible emissions wise I mean please help and let me know if you have done this to your cars yet?!Plus the air pump right now is making a chattering noise when engaged i guess the clutches may need to be oiled it annoying while off the gas though!
Thanks
Corey
Thanks
Corey
11-13-03, 10:31 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by FormerPorscheGuy
[B]If you remove your air pump your cat will eventually clog.
While you're removing the air pump, gut the main cat and get a down pipe, then you won't have a problem.
Make sure you do a thorough search on how to remove the air pump before you do anything; it's a lot harder than it looks.
[B]If you remove your air pump your cat will eventually clog.
While you're removing the air pump, gut the main cat and get a down pipe, then you won't have a problem.
Make sure you do a thorough search on how to remove the air pump before you do anything; it's a lot harder than it looks.
11-13-03, 11:09 PM
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removing the air pump is actually simple.
if I remember though, the belt size you need once its gone for alternator to main pully is like a 3 rib 330?? somthin like that... guys?? correct me
if I remember though, the belt size you need once its gone for alternator to main pully is like a 3 rib 330?? somthin like that... guys?? correct me
11-14-03, 12:36 AM
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Eh? Its like two bolts, an electrical connection and a couple hoses. It can be a pain to get the belts back on....at least when you're putting on a new airpump...but nothing complicated at all.
As for removing it...with a stock or "stock-like" (i.e. not a programmable one that you can adjust for the air pump's absence) ECU I find that my car runs much better WITH the airpump. Certainly, cold idle is better, but around-town part throttle response is better too, at least on my car. I don't have an explanation for it, but I'm not imagining it...I've had to repeatedly cycle between having one and not having one over the last few months, as I had a series of used pumps die on me.
jds
As for removing it...with a stock or "stock-like" (i.e. not a programmable one that you can adjust for the air pump's absence) ECU I find that my car runs much better WITH the airpump. Certainly, cold idle is better, but around-town part throttle response is better too, at least on my car. I don't have an explanation for it, but I'm not imagining it...I've had to repeatedly cycle between having one and not having one over the last few months, as I had a series of used pumps die on me.
jds
Originally posted by BOTTLEFED
Make sure you do a thorough search on how to remove the air pump before you do anything; it's a lot harder than it looks. [/B]
Make sure you do a thorough search on how to remove the air pump before you do anything; it's a lot harder than it looks. [/B]
11-14-03, 12:44 AM
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The pump is easy to take off. Loosen the alt, loosen the tensioner by the ps, pull the belts off, take off 2 bolts holding the pump in, disconnect 1 connector and 2 hoses. I made several trips to the parts store and I think the belt that fit was a 29.5" 4 rib. I have a main underdrive pulley and wp pulley though.
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11-17-03, 09:27 PM
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I was thinking of the same thing. I want to take it off to clean up the engine a little, but i wasn't sure if it would make me idle like ****. Would an aftermarket ecu fix the idling problem if i were to remove the airpump.
11-17-03, 10:12 PM
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Originally posted by spoolage
removing the air pump is actually simple.
if I remember though, the belt size you need once its gone for alternator to main pully is like a 3 rib 330?? somthin like that... guys?? correct me
removing the air pump is actually simple.
if I remember though, the belt size you need once its gone for alternator to main pully is like a 3 rib 330?? somthin like that... guys?? correct me
11-18-03, 12:46 AM
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Once you remove the airpump it will be rich at idle. It can only be fixed by a tunable ecu. Try to find a 5 rib if you can, I couldn't. The belt size also matters to what pulleys you're running.
11-18-03, 03:29 AM
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disconnecting my airpump and eliminating all the emission stuff, made my car so rich that it backfires a lot. Especially when i left off the gas around 6000+rpm... Not sure if it is the result of unpluging the airpump!?!
but i can have nice flames, but at the cost of buying more fuel..
but i can have nice flames, but at the cost of buying more fuel..
Last edited by Cihuuy; 11-18-03 at 03:40 AM.
11-18-03, 06:05 AM
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Lose the air pump, precat, main cat. Install downpipe, midpipe, catback, and install Power FC to tune the AFRs to deal with the much freer flowing exhaust flow. Depending on if you have an underdrive main pulley, you'll need a 29.5 or 30-inch belt. Mine was a 29-inch, 4-rib (Goodyear), cuz I have an underdrive main pulley kit. Best to have a 5-rib, if you can find one.
11-18-03, 10:50 AM
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I removed my air pump (no cats on car) and it did mess up the idle. Never stalled, just was never sure what speed to idle at. Car backfired on throttle lift, even with the air pump BTW. I used the Greddy pulley kit, which is not expensive, and comes with the correct belt. I then installed the Apex'i Power FC and it fixed the idle (and many other things as well). The space left by the absent air pump is great for the aftermarket AST. Got the Greddy pulley kit from RP. They also have the belts.
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