Turbo Stud Size
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Turbo Stud Size
Hello I recently pulled the turbos and the studs came out with the nut. The nuts seem to be frozen onto the stud I'm wondering what size of studs mates the turbos to the manifold. Is there a place to get studs other than like from mazda because more thank likely they are going to be special ordered and I don't have the time to wait, would napa or some other place have them? thank you
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Originally Posted by KINETIK_FD3S
spray the stud with some wd-40 and clamp a vise-grip on the middle of the sud then wrench out the nut.
#6
Find a Fastenal store. They should have them, they are M10x1.5. There are stores in both Honolulu and Kapolei. See http://www.fastenal.com. Don't reuse the studs after you've torqued them that much, or the nut has seized. They will break off and then you're going to have a very difficult time removing them.
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Originally Posted by RX7 RAGE
m10x1.5 is the size of the stud. I bought one off the dealer and got raped at the price of 18 bucks.
me too got raped at $100.00 for 4 studs and 6 bolts...
Originally Posted by KINETIK_FD3S
spray the stud with some wd-40 and clamp a vise-grip on the middle of the sud then wrench out the nut.
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#8
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your not getting raped for the bolts, thats how much they cost man.. even ray at malloy mazda charges that much.. there not just normal Ace hardware bolts, you pay for what you get ..
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thank you for the help! much appericated I was wondering is there any more dimensions other than m10X1.5 that i need to tell the guys? I went down to mazda today and yah it's liek 8.75 for studs they couldnt' even find the part number for the bolt that went on the stud....
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Originally Posted by HobbeZ
thank you for the help! much appericated I was wondering is there any more dimensions other than m10X1.5 that i need to tell the guys? I went down to mazda today and yah it's liek 8.75 for studs they couldnt' even find the part number for the bolt that went on the stud....
yeah you need a length too, but this isn't very crucial, just take one of your old ones along. Most "hardeded automotice studs" only come in one or two lengths for each size (in my experiences). MUCH cheaper than factory ones.
Now I have to decide if I'm goign to use factory nuts or use some brass ones (for engine to manifold studs).
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Originally Posted by HobbeZ
studs came out with the nut. The nuts seem to be frozen onto the stud
Dave
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i ended up reusing some of the stud + nut = bolts haha the stuff u buy from like autozone or checkers blows... they arn't hard enough and can't be torqued to spec.
#18
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Originally Posted by HobbeZ
i ended up reusing some of the stud + nut = bolts haha the stuff u buy from like autozone or checkers blows... they arn't hard enough and can't be torqued to spec.
I know this post is over a year old, but the message is still valid.
This is a classic example of going cheap or getting in a hurry & using substitute parts.
The studs are expensive because of the material they are made out of. We are talking about exhaust studs which are in a high heat area. Plus you don't want them to corrode & break. Or worst yet, seize so you can't ever remove them.
I wouldn't go to the "HELP" section at NAPA & just find a stud with the same thread pitch & call it a day. Your asking for trouble.
People assume that all dealer parts are a rip off. They are just overpriced & never in stock.
Let me tell you a story.........................
I work in the aircraft industry. There is a wide spread problem of Unapproved Parts. What's that mean?
Example.......Two bolts that look identical. One from the OEM vendor & one from, say Taiwan.
The OEM bolt is made from a specific metal for strength & corrosive protection, machine to high tolerances, & undergone numerous inspections. The FAA has witness all these tests & has certified it for use on aircraft. All this cost $, so they charge $600 - $800 for each bolt!!!
But what's this, looks like the same bolt, only it from a shady source in Taiwan. They only costs $200, wow what a deal. But look what happens when you use them.
One of the bolts has messed up threads, the nut seizes & wont torque up. The next one has too short a grip length of threads & the nut bottoms out. The third one is a interference fit & wont even go in the hole. Finally you get a couple to work.
You check back & in less than a year they are rusted & formed cracks. If you hadn't found them quick enough the bolts would have broken..................................... & the tail falls off.
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