Mikey

okay here it goes. i have been on this forum for so long now and have read everything. but i still don't know the answer to a couple things. my car just hit 70,000 so, as i should, i am looking at a rebuild. so here is what i am wondering about...

- did replacing the seals with 3mm really work? have they been able to hold up longer than stock? i remember reading that some were against it because the engine wasn't "calculated" with 3mm so you shouldn't change them.

- is doing a port job worth it, or does it just make it sound really really cool? will i loose much daily drive-ability wiht this?

- how do you guys feel about rx7.com rebuilding me...for those of you in that area?

- is it better to just take my car in before it blows to have it rebuilt, i imagine it is? i have seen a housing that was trash cause the seal gouged a nice trench all around it. do they give me new housing and rotors when they rebuild, or do they just do that when it is needed?

- while the car is down, what else is a good thing to replace while the engine is out?

and that is it for my questions...what else can i ask you?

oh, how big of rear tires have you been able to fit on? i am at 165, anybody gone bigger? thanks guys.

jr

3mm seals are primarily used when the rotors are worn to where 2mm won't fit anymore. I know some people that have the rotors machined to make 3mm fit even if 2mm would do the job, but I can't see why that would be beneficial. Do a search in here on 3mm there was a big debate on it a while back.

Adds HP, increases noise and decreases life span by starting out its life at a lower compression level. I think I a mild streetport is a good compromise.

I've heard nothing but good things about them, but have had no personal experience with them. I'm sure someone else will chime in.

Yup, destroy the housings, rotors, and TURBOS if you crack a seal. If you've got the cash get the rebuild pre-blowning your engine.

Silicone hose job, non sequential turbo conversion, port the wastegate, clutch, lightweight flywheel. I'm sure there's more but thats all I can think of right now.

I'm amsuming you meant 265, that seems pretty big for stock 8" rims, I'm no expert on this though.

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

just b/c u hit 70k dosent mean its time for a re-build...mine made it to 92k, and only reason its in for a re-build is b/c of a coolant seal not b/c the motor blew..infact it had 6.2 compression on all faces and both rotors when it got pulled...

first off b4 u even start worrying abt the engien, get a compression test done,,,see how bad of shape you in, if your compressions real low then start thinking abt the inevatable...

ok how do u drive the car? like u stole it or like your grandmother? if u drive it like your grandmother dont get a port, you wont be able to use its potental...what mods u got done to the car? dp- high flow ecu catback? youll notice more power from the portign with the more mods u run..like if your stock the porting wont make any real difference.. but if u have decent mods and drive the car the way it should porting is a good idea since u alredy will have the motor pulled


taking the car in b4 the engine "blows" imho is a waste of $ if the engiens gonns blow its from running lean or something dumb...and that u cant prevent..i know of people who poped their motor 1k after a fresh re-build, b/c they ran lean...
if your coolant seal goes, youll know it and its not the end...u can drive on it for a bit and if its caught in time the copper block weld is proven to work so wait till its time to get it done..dont start worrying now
theres quite a few of us who have made it into the 100k range b4 a re-build

best o luck man


damn jr beat me by a min...yea deff port the wg, silicon hose job..cluch and flywheel...scrub the engien bay and polish/ chrome everything possible

DamonB

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mikey
[B]
- did replacing the seals with 3mm really work?

Conventional wisdom says if you are not boosting mega psi stock is fine.

- is doing a port job worth it, or does it just make it sound really really cool? will i loose much daily drive-ability wiht this?

No experience

- how do you guys feel about rx7.com rebuilding me...for those of you in that area?

Great guys. I talked to them recently about a new motor. They average 3 a week. I got a price from them, but call 'em directly.

- is it better to just take my car in before it blows to have it rebuilt, i imagine it is? i have seen a housing that was trash cause the seal gouged a nice trench all around it. do they give me new housing and rotors when they rebuild, or do they just do that when it is needed?

I say drive it until it explodes unless you have the time/money right now. Rotary Performance (rx7.com) uses Mazda reman units. They don't rebuild yours, they put in a new one. Chris tells me that the motors they get have brand new rotor housings and have been really great except for a couple years ago when everybody was down on the Mazda remans. Chris claims quality recently has been wonderful and they have had only one warranty replacement in the past couple years.

- while the car is down, what else is a good thing to replace while the engine is out? Lightweight flywheel or clutch. Front nose and seal on tranny if needed. Checkout the turbos.

jr

Yeah Bacon's got a good point, but you have to look at it both ways. Engines run lean for lots of reasons, some of them totally out of your control. If you have the cash I think you should get the rebuild. Maybe you could squeeze another 20K+ miles out of your current engine, but if you do blow an apex seal the rebuild could cost you a lot more. But like Bacon said, you can blow a rebuild the same day you pull it out of the shop... six of one and a half dozen of the other.

Mikey

you guys rule...yep sorry, 265.

mods:
apex FMIC
apex intake
downpipe
exhaust
looking at high flow cat ASAP
power fc (running 12/13/14 psi)
"new/used" stock twins
just finished hose job

i think that is about all this will matter

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

ohh in that case port the hell outa it...
porting will make your car run real nice..and faster..(hell your spending 3k whats a few hundred more for easy hp)

id stick to 2mm seals..the guy whoos building my engine runs them..(he built pepe loco's engein wich dynoed like 690 hp on stock 2mm seals)
stock seals are fine..its all in the tuneing 2mm or 3mm either way if u detonate it will blow your motor rumor has it 3mm will take a bit more beating than 2mm but ive also heard they have a tendandy to "skip" @ high rpms..
hurelys are not suposto damage the turbo/ housings when they fgo, but they wear faster, and cost more

but some builder will only run 3mm in high perf appilactiaon..depends where u go and what they like

Mikey

now that is what i wanted to hear!!! thanks for the replies guys. and i think i do want to stay with the 2mm seals like Bacon said....like i said, i didn't know if going to the 3mm proved to be better. thanks agian.