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OK, since the wire that was burned was the 1st switch, I think the wire that was re-located was in fact in the right spot before, even though it's color is B/W on the new harness. We still don't know why there is no wire for the +12V pin. So I feel like here's where you stand-
-The harness is missing a wire for the +12V pin. The harness builder either didn't include it (either on purpose or by mistake), or it is mis-wired to somewhere else.
-The harness is now burned, and using it would be questionable from a safety standpoint.
Firstly, can the builder of the harness tell you what their wiring colors indicate, even if they are not the stock colors? Can they also tell you if they did or did not mean to include a wire to the ISC which carries power from that X-05 connector pin? Perhaps they attempted to get power from some other location or simply did not believe you wanted it included? Can they service your harness to replace the burned wire or any others that may have been damaged?
OK, since the wire that was burned was the 1st switch, I think the wire that was re-located was in fact in the right spot before, even though it's color is B/W on the new harness. We still don't know why there is no wire for the +12V pin. So I feel like here's where you stand-
-The harness is missing a wire for the +12V pin. The harness builder either didn't include it (either on purpose or by mistake), or it is mis-wired to somewhere else.
-The harness is now burned, and using it would be questionable from a safety standpoint.
Firstly, can the builder of the harness tell you what their wiring colors indicate, even if they are not the stock colors? Can they also tell you if they did or did not mean to include a wire to the ISC which carries power from that X-05 connector pin? Perhaps they attempted to get power from some other location or simply did not believe you wanted it included? Can they service your harness to replace the burned wire or any others that may have been damaged?
The wire that was relocated was confirmed 100% to be in a wrong pin before, and it is now in the correct pin. I measured resistance from B/W ISC connector to that pin on my stock harness and it shows 0.00Ω. It is the same for that new harness.
When connector is disconnected, with key ON, B/W pin (female) shows +12V (so the B/W that goes to the ISC should get +12V, but it didn't when I tested it while multimeter, while the harness was burning. Cluster was ON, everything was ON. Something is not right.)
Yes, one of the cables is burnt. That's gonna be the price to pay... I won't be driving the car like that, but I would like to see what's wrong first.
He said he simply did a mistake for that B/W pin. I really really feel like this pin is at the correct location now.
It was his last harness, he's a clusters repairs/PFC repairs specialist. I literally bought it as a leftover. When I sent him the burnt wire picture, he sent me a full refund without me asking for it or even expecting it. At this point if there's any repair to do, I'll be on my own, or I'll use my (very) old and crusty stock harness.
Colors don't bug me, like I said I am using my old stock harness for reference, and I measure resistance if needed.
Okay then, understood. Shoot, that sucks but at least they gave you a refund for their mistake. Well again, its up to you where to go from here, new harness or unwrap this one to diagnose the problem and repair the damage.
Okay then, understood. Shoot, that sucks but at least they gave you a refund for their mistake. Well again, its up to you where to go from here, new harness or unwrap this one to diagnose the problem and repair the damage.
I guess I can start by removing this harness and measure resistance to every single pins (and compare with OEM harness). But it still won't tell me if there's a wire missing...
Right. You could measure resistance, and that might turn up something, but you're going to need to unwrap it either way to assess and repair the damaged wire. You'll need to unwrap around the burned wire to trace it back to wherever it connects to on both ends, and hopefully that will shed some light on how it was connected and why it burned.
to your point of the iacv not getting power. Your iacv was buzzing after attemping to start it and it did not start. It shouldn't buzz if there was no power to it.
Right. You could measure resistance, and that might turn up something, but you're going to need to unwrap it either way to assess and repair the damaged wire. You'll need to unwrap around the burned wire to trace it back to wherever it connects to on both ends, and hopefully that will shed some light on how it was connected and why it burned.
Yes, first I'll make sure that every pins match my OEM harness... Thanks a lot for your help!!
Repay actual harness (builder is following this thread and I told him that if the car was the problem, I will repay him).
Throw in garbage new Rywire single turbo harness if I have burnt it as well.
I will not get a new harness. I need to know what happened.
Originally Posted by zweetz32
to your point of the iacv not getting power. Your iacv was buzzing after attemping to start it and it did not start. It shouldn't buzz if there was no power to it.
It was buzzing with the old harness. I've never heard it buzzing with this new harness.
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; May 29, 2020 at 09:39 AM.
I've been following this thread since the get-go. I wanted to mention to you that if you do get to a breaking point with this I am gearing up to open up my own shop soon. I'm in the midst of shopping for a garage. I most likely will have a shop running by third quarter. I am in the Cornwall area which is reasonable for you. I'm currently working on a local's 85 gsl-se.
It's nice to learn about the car and do things yourself but when it begins costing you needless money it becomes a curse and the car will lose its appeal. I'll also say that I wouldn't trust anyone in Quebec to work on my car. I won't say that nobody knows what they're doing but the gamble is simply too great and no one ever admits to anything or takes responsibility for their work hence why they will never be a five star mechanic. So unless you know these guys personally or maybe once/twice removed, I would beware.
I'll also say that 90% of shops everywhere lack in the wiring department. Electronics is rarely a mechanics forte. Wiring is really my specialty. I fix audio gear on the reg.
Just something to think about. I can guarantee my work and unlike most I will admit to failure. It's always good to know a rotorhead that you can trust. However I currently don't have the actual space to take in more than one customer. This will all change very soon.
Good luck with everything man, that harness looks pretty cooked! LOL
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; May 29, 2020 at 04:23 PM.
I've been following this thread since the get-go. I wanted to mention to you that if you do get to a breaking point with this I am gearing up to open up my own shop soon. I'm in the midst of shopping for a garage. I most likely will have a shop running by third quarter. I am in the Cornwall area which is reasonable for you. I'm currently working on a local's 85 gsl-se.
It's nice to learn about the car and do things yourself but when it begins costing you needless money it becomes a curse and the car will lose its appeal. I'll also say that I wouldn't trust anyone in Quebec to work on my car. I won't say that nobody knows what they're doing but the gamble is simply too great and no one ever admits or takes responsibility for their work hence why they will be a five star mechanic. So unless you know these guys personally or maybe once/twice removed, I would beware.
I'll also say that 90% of shops everywhere lack in the wiring department. Electronics is rarely a mechanics forte. Wiring is really my specialty. I fix audio gear on the reg.
Just something to think about. I can guarantee my work and unlike most I will admit to failure. It's always good to have a rotorhead that you can trust. However I currently don't have the actual space to take in more than one customer. This will all change very soon.
Good luck with everything man, that harness looks pretty cooked! LOL
Very good, well noted. Derwin Performance have a pretty good reputation all over North America, but to be honest I haven't done much business with them (probably under $1,500 CAD).
I strongly agree with what you said. I like to learn and work on my cars myself, but when it is getting more expensive than to send them to someone more knowledgeable, I don't like it. And I also strongly agree with your vision of Quebec people. I rarely buy local, because there's always something wrong.
Cornwall isn't too far neither (my CAA membership would 100% cover the towing) and I like to do business with people who are helping.
So today, I removed the custom engine harness from the car. I am planning to check every single pins (and compare with the old stock harness).
I broke one of the wires when I removed it and I cannot see where it was going. I think it could be the brown and white wire (going to battery harness), as pictured. Am I right?
OK, since the wire that was burned was the 1st switch, I think the wire that was re-located was in fact in the right spot before, even though it's color is B/W on the new harness. We still don't know why there is no wire for the +12V pin. So I feel like here's where you stand-
-The harness is missing a wire for the +12V pin. The harness builder either didn't include it (either on purpose or by mistake), or it is mis-wired to somewhere else.
-The harness is now burned, and using it would be questionable from a safety standpoint.
Firstly, can the builder of the harness tell you what their wiring colors indicate, even if they are not the stock colors? Can they also tell you if they did or did not mean to include a wire to the ISC which carries power from that X-05 connector pin? Perhaps they attempted to get power from some other location or simply did not believe you wanted it included? Can they service your harness to replace the burned wire or any others that may have been damaged?
Little update.
"wire that was re-located was in fact in the right spot before"
You were right, again. I just put it back to where it was. At least 2 wires have to be replaced because of the fire. But how did I manage to get 0.00Ω to the ISC when the harness was installed on the car? I cannot find continuity anymore, with any wire that goes to B/W on the ISC.
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; May 30, 2020 at 04:52 PM.
That wire must be grounded out somewhere as well. I have a feeling that the harness builder made an error.
Also I think there may be wires to the ECU that are B/W that are grounds. The only way you get a melting wire situation is a short to ground. And I think the only way to know what's up would be unwrapping the harness. You may also want to see if the B/W wire has continuity to ground, if so that would answer that question.
that wire must be grounded out somewhere as well. I have a feeling that the harness builder made an error.
Also i think there may be wires to the ecu that are b/w that are grounds. The only way you get a melting wire situation is a short to ground. And i think the only way to know what's up would be unwrapping the harness. You may also want to see if the b/w wire has continuity to ground, if so that would answer that question.
Dale
I already started unwrapping some portions of the harness. As I mentioned for sure the swap that I did was incorrect.
I have found continuity!! And 4D seems to be... ...a ground. Custom color on B/W is RED, and custom color on 4D is GREY... There could be more than one mistake here... The fact that B/W was going to a ground explains a lot of things now.
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; May 30, 2020 at 05:23 PM.
Not sure what you are asking here. Are you talking about a wiring harness cover?
Have you tried the engine with the ISC now getting 12v?
Dale
Yes the harness cover!
I didn't connect the harness, but there is +12V going to the female of X-05. From that pin, the (newly installed) wire goes directly to ISC's B/W (via male connector).
That ISC has to work now!
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; Jun 1, 2020 at 11:41 AM.
There are different ways to wrap and protect a harness. You may be talking about split loom tubing - corrugated tubing with a slit down one side. Tuck the wire in and there ya go. Mazda used similar stuff on the stock harnesses. Stuff from the auto parts store should be OK.
There are different ways to wrap and protect a harness. You may be talking about split loom tubing - corrugated tubing with a slit down one side. Tuck the wire in and there ya go. Mazda used similar stuff on the stock harnesses. Stuff from the auto parts store should be OK.
Hope you have some good news on the ISC!
Dale
Corrugated tubing is pretty basic, I wanted something tighter, cleaner...
Now that your ISC is working, it might be time to try the PFC idle learn procedure. Seeing as your PFC should actually be able to control the idle now :P.
Now that your ISC is working, it might be time to try the PFC idle learn procedure. Seeing as your PFC should actually be able to control the idle now :P.
Matt
Absolutely nothing has changed with that ISC now working. When I started the car, battery has been unplugged for 10 days so it should initiate the idle learning procedure...
I imagine the air pump is removed? Make sure O2 feedback is turned OFF if it is. Also, the only way to get the PFC to relearn idle is to do the INIT. ALL DATA option from the commander. Having the battery disco’d and stuff doesn’t do anything. Make sure the air adjustment screw (flathead one below the throttle elbow) is a half turn from full closed.
I imagine the air pump is removed? Make sure O2 feedback is turned OFF if it is. Also, the only way to get the PFC to relearn idle is to do the INIT. ALL DATA option from the commander. Having the battery disco’d and stuff doesn’t do anything. Make sure the air adjustment screw (flathead one below the throttle elbow) is a half turn from full closed.
Matt
Originally Posted by DaleClark
^Yep. Get the car warmed up, then do the All Data Init and start the car for the idle learn. I think that's in my PFC FAQ on how to do it.
Simply unplugging the battery won't do it.
Dale
Air pump is removed, o2 feedback off, I tried to reset the PFC via the Commander, no change whatsoever.
I don't think the problem is electrical. I'm thinking more and more of sending the LIM for a resurfacing (idle drops when I spray brake cleaner/starting fluid near the LIM to engine block gasket).
A little bit off-topic: I cannot find where I am supposed to plug the power steering. I see the plug in the battery harness but I can't find where it goes to!
