• Oil drain line has no kink, I don't know which size it is though...
• Oil catch can received, but not installed yet.
• By restrictor, do you mean that there is a tiny hole in the flange for the oil to go through? If so, yes!
• Unkown feed line size...
• I cannot tell the oil pressure but I feel like it was OK.

I didn't change anything on my single turbo setup that was there before. I ordered a new turbo oil seal, I've got a good feeling that it is the problem.

I know that there was some residual oil to burn, but it was smoking much more after I took it for a drive, which makes total sense for a blown turbo.

Smoke went away only after I stopped the car for 1 hour. I checked spark plugs and they were covered with oil.

RIght now I'm waiting for the turbo oil seal.

 

Yea, some flanges have an oil restrictor built in.
well, good luck and hopefully there is nothing else wrong with it.

 

Is your PCV valve installed properly? Sounds like you might have pressure building up in your crankcase. Your symptoms point to that. See if that valve is installed correctly and in working order.

Is the return gravity fed on a 3rd Gen? Dale?

 

Thanks... I know that I didn't answer most of your questions, but I've got a very good feeling that the turbo is simply blown. I remember that I found a lot of oil just like on the picture before I started the rebuilds process.

PCV valve has been removed, I simply put a blank hose on the top oil filler neck nipple, and left the bottom nipple open in the air. Temporary setup before I install the oil catch can.

 

That might very well be your problem.

 

I have just read on the purpose of the PCV valve.

I think you could be right... Previously in this thread, I removed it. I would like to know what other guys here think of your idea!

 

You have to have a PCV valve between the upper intake manifold and the oil neck if that hose is attached. If you have a straight hose, that's a problem.

Stock, you have the PCV from the left-pointing oil nipple to the UIM and a hose going from the down-pointing nipple to the primary turbo inlet, which is just filtered atmospheric pressure air. 95 Mazda removed the PCV and capped those 2 nipples, it's not really necessary.

For testing you may want to cap the UIM nipple and have both oil neck nipples open to atmosphere and go for a drive. It may take a little to burn off residual oil. If you still have smoking, it could be the turbos.

Since you ran the turbos dry most likely on the old engine that's a very good possibility that they are not happy. Turbo bearings get eaten up FAST with no oil.

Dale

 

Yes, I thought you had completely disconnected the PCV system. Do you still have hose connected from the oil filler neck to the intake manifold?

 

Top nipple at the oil filler neck is capped, bottom nipple is open to atmosphere. No connection between filler neck and manifold! So I understand that everything is okay...

 

I think you're good on that. That should mean there's no easy way for crank case oil to enter the intake.

 

I think your misunderstanding the function of the pcv valve. You just rebuilt your engine. You may have excessive blow by. Capping the filler neck will only make the problem worse.

As you boost your creating positive pressure in the crankcase. You could be creating so much that you indeed have to SUCK it out with the vacuum.

In that short lived timeframe, as you are boosting, your oil return from your turbo CANNOT FLOW because of the pressure in the crankcase, forcing it out of the turbo and into your exhaust. The oil will follow the path of least resistance.

I would reintroduce the pcv valve, which will take literally 2 minutes and see if it fixes your issue.

 

He still has the bottom nipple open so it’s venting pressure and doesn’t have a line from neck to UIM, just for my knowledge where is the crankcase pressure coming from??

 

Alright,

So I installed the PCV valve, and no change whatsoever. It definitely seems to smoke as soon as the turbo starts spinning.

I took another short 1 mile ride yesterday, damn I want that car to be running this year.

I am still waiting on a seal to fix that turbo, to be continued!

 

Update:

Turbo has to be changed, I bent the shaft while trying to change the seal. No big deal, it was from eBay, installed in 2010. Still lasted longer than I expected. It was a T04B 1.15 A/R hot side and 0.60 A/R cold side (suited my student budget). I bought another cheap turbo from eBay but some fitments are required (didn't come with V-band flange) so I decided that was enough with the cheap stuff.
.
I'm not a student anymore, so I can afford a better turbo.

I only need the turbo itself, with the T4 flange that will fit my actual manifold.

I am looking for reliability and at least 300whp.

What do you guys recommend?

Note: The idea of buying another cheap turbo was to make sure that if my engine blows (fresh rebuild), it could only break a cheap turbo, not an expensive one. What do you think?

 

Borg Warner SXE series. Cheap, reliable, just get one on the smaller size. Maybe the smallest S300 they make, will give you some leeway if you want to increase boost later on

 

There is also a used Aspec 500R for sale in the classified. Used to be one of the bees knees turbos a few years back. I think based on GT35series turbo if I remember correctly. May be a good option for you.

 

I have seen the A-Spec 500R for sale. It seems to be suitable for people looking for 450-500 whp. I don't need that power, do you think I could get max 350 whp by lowering the boost? Would I need to change some more stuff in my setup (injectors, for example)? I'm OK to get the car tuned.

And does it happen often that people blow their turbo when their engine blows?

 

Really depends how you blow the engine. If apex seals shoot through it then the turbine blades can really take a hit. Or if you piling issues in the engine then the bearings of the turbo can be impacted that way.

Regarding the 500R, it looks like a decent deal. If you run it at 10-12 psi you won't be making more than 400. Your other supporting systems would need to be upgraded if they can handle the fueling needs.

Or if you are really set on 350 as a max, get a small SXE Borg Warner or the EFR 7670 if in your budget. There are a lot of other options that don't break the bank at that range and can usually be found used as people upgrade. Which is why I recommend snagging the 500r so you can turn it up if you eventually decide to.

 

500R is basically a GT35R turbo with a larger T04R/Z sized compressor wheel..... 67mm inducer 84mm exducer from memory.

Great turbo, overkill for only 300 rwhp.

 

I will not want to go more than 350 whp, ever. I already own faster cars and I will buy more in a near future. I really don't like the idea of upgrading the supporting systems.

That is what I figured! So what else? I don't know much about BorgWarner series... I know GoodfellaFD3S is a forum superstar and I was hoping for an advice.

 

I know I'm asking you guys a lot... What other T4 turbos would you recommend for 300-350 whp?

 

Just do some searching. Gt35 is fine, or go the next step smaller if you want.

If it were me I'd try out the S200sx-e by Borg Warner. Cheap compared to the EFR line, but you are going small enough to where it will spool fine anyways. There is an option for a T4 housing, and several A/R sizes available. I'd go for something between .8 and 1.0. Less than $1000 shipped brand new if you shop around.

 

8 months later...

Sorry guys, I had a lot of studies over the winter, had to put that project on standby.

Just a quick refresh: I'm actually shopping for a T4 turbo.

And as TwinCharged RX7 mentioned, I found out that the new S200SX 1.22 A/R is fairly cheap: $800 + shipping.

But I also found the new T04E 0.96 A/R by BNR: $1,000 + shipping. I know BNR is a pretty good brand when it comes to rotaries.

There's also a "cheap" CXRacing T76 1.15 A/R which looks very similar to the T04B I had before ($416 + shipping)...

I get lost very easily when searching for infos, shopping for turbos...

I would like to get something equal or more powerful than the T04B 1.15 A/R @ 13 psi that I was using on the car. As I already said, 300whp+ is a must.

 

I had 362sxe and you would not be dissapointed with borg sxe line. The 200sxe will fit your need as TwinCharged Rx7 said,.
i am glad you are back to it..

 

I am now convinced, I'm gonna go with Borgwarner.

However, lots of people are going with the S300SX-E series.

For what it's worth, this is what I'm planning to buy: S366SX-E 1.00 T4 Twin Scroll.

The S362SX-E is exactly $4.12 cheaper via Turblown (vendor on this forum).

What do you guys think?