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Air pump is removed, o2 feedback off, I tried to reset the PFC via the Commander, no change whatsoever.
I don't think the problem is electrical. I'm thinking more and more of sending the LIM for a resurfacing (idle drops when I spray brake cleaner/starting fluid near the LIM to engine block gasket).
A little bit off-topic: I cannot find where I am supposed to plug the power steering. I see the plug in the battery harness but I can't find where it goes to!
The PS pump has a single terminal sticking straight up that normally has 1 wire going to it, it's easily visible when you pop the hood, it's not hidden. Not the best picture, but from a quick Google image search -
You can see the 1 wire to the left of the banjo bolt.
If you have a straight edge, you can place it on the flange to check for straightness.
Might as well get a fresh gasket this go around too if you’re gonna go through all the trouble or removing it for a third time.
Matt
It's straight, but there are several scuffs. LIM is now to the machine shop.
Originally Posted by DaleClark
The PS pump has a single terminal sticking straight up that normally has 1 wire going to it, it's easily visible when you pop the hood, it's not hidden. Not the best picture, but from a quick Google image search -
You can see the 1 wire to the left of the banjo bolt.
Dale
Alright, something is not right on my PS pump. The wire is missing... I wonder if I can buy only the wire...
I installed it. No change. If I spray brake cleaner/starting fluid around the same area (LIM to engine block), idle still drops (but by far less).
High bouncing idle still there. Engine dies if I get VTA1 and VTA2 within specs.
I've been chasing that problem for a long time now.
I ordered FD01-32-611A from the local dealership, which seems to be the harness that goes to the PS pump. It does not fit my connector, and it is not refundable.
I think that may be the right connector actually. The other end is typically zip tied to the PS hose. That white 1-wire connector goes to the AC compressor.
What kind of shape is your ACV block off plate?
Also, refresh my memory - what is the status on the screw that's just below the entrance to the throttle body? For the PFC it's typically screwed all the way in then back out a half turn.
I think that may be the right connector actually. The other end is typically zip tied to the PS hose. That white 1-wire connector goes to the AC compressor.
What kind of shape is your ACV block off plate?
Also, refresh my memory - what is the status on the screw that's just below the entrance to the throttle body? For the PFC it's typically screwed all the way in then back out a half turn.
Dale
You're totally right, that was the right connector! Female was hidden and I found it. This PS connector problem is solved. Thanks again.
I renewed all block-off plates on LIM with new RTV.
Screw under throttle body is all the way in, then backed out a half turn.
Next logical step would be to change the LIM to engine block gasket... But like I said I had 2 used ones and they are both leaking at the same place, which is kind of strange... That gasket isn't that cheap neither. I'm not a big fan of spending money for no reason.
I think at this point I should come back to the basic stuff. Idle is much better when it is cold, gets bad when it reaches operating temperature. I thought this would be some kind of indication...
The ACV has a big weird check valve that goes in the manifold. I call it the "wagon wheel", it looks like an old wagon wheel. That keeps exhaust gasses from backing into the ACV. That needs to be there or you can have problems getting that block of plate to seal up. Is that in there?
I think you're getting there, it's come a LONG way for sure!
I wonder if you just need to do the PFC idle re-learn if it's flaky when warm. Is it at least somewhat steady when warm or will the car want to die?
The ACV has a big weird check valve that goes in the manifold. I call it the "wagon wheel", it looks like an old wagon wheel. That keeps exhaust gasses from backing into the ACV. That needs to be there or you can have problems getting that block of plate to seal up. Is that in there?
I think you're getting there, it's come a LONG way for sure!
I wonder if you just need to do the PFC idle re-learn if it's flaky when warm. Is it at least somewhat steady when warm or will the car want to die?
Dale
The car wants to die when it is warm, unless I "cheat" with the TB. I've got no clue what you're talking about concerning a "wagon wheel". I don't think it was there...
Good news is it looks like Mazda used the same part forever.
Will not having that cause idle problems? I don't think so. You could have a small exhaust leak there, though.
May want to post some more pictures up of the engine to lower intake manifold and how everything is set up there.
Dale
So that valve is pretty cheap, that's good. I could probably order it locally.
I joined a picture of the area. I'm not sure what we could see here.
I'm back to basic stuff, I already mentioned it here:
I'm sick of unbolting the LIM, so the turbo isn't bolted to the exhaust manifold. I'm going to bolt it back when the idle is fixed. But could it be the cause of my actual issue?
Please don’t disappear, I’ve been following this for way way too long haha
Haha, thanks for the interest! However, I don't have anything new to say. I'm waiting for a CPU #2, but I know it won't fix anything. I am going to order a new LIM to engine block gasket this week, even if I feel like it is going to be another $50 in the garbage. I have been chasing that high bouncing idle for a long time already...
I plugged in CPU #2. All interior electronic issues went away as expected.
I installed the new LIM to engine block gasket. Idle isn't affected by brake cleaner in that area anymore. I had 2 apparently used good condition gaskets, and obviously they were both leaking at the same place. I'm quite surprised that the new gasket fixed the leak.
Ide still isn't satisfying, but I still installed everything back (turbo/exhaust) and went outside for the first ride since more than 4 years.
I drove the car for a total of 1 mile.
Car smokes blue a lot. Idle or when I drive the car it doesn't really matter. Engine has been running for 30 minutes today, including the ride. Could it be residual oil from the rebuild? Engine ran for a total of about 2 hours since the last time I sprayed oil in the block, to build compression.
What could it be? I'm afraid.
EDIT - Quick update:
I noticed barely fresh oil in the turbo. Picture is after I cleaned it a little bit.
I started the car 1 hour after I stopped it (and it was still hot, of course). It was barely smoking.
At this point, I think I am right to assume that the turbo is the issue. What do you think?
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; Jul 1, 2020 at 06:25 PM.
Check that the oil drain from the turbo is good(no kink) and is 10 AN size at least.
make sure you have crank case vented(oil catch can).
do you have a restrictor on your tubo oil feed line? What size is the oil feed line?
What is the oil presure you see?
Quite possible the turbo bearings took some damage when you had your first engine with oil pressure problems. But, I'd get some more easy miles on the car to make sure you get everything to seat and burn off. You probably have a LOT of oil and residual crap in the exhaust from all the work.
I'm happy the gasket fixed that leak, still mystified that it would have been that much of a leak, though!
Yeah, the turbo is the likeliest suspect in a smokescreen. Especially, if the rest of the engine is trustworthy. Has the smoking gone away, or can you bring it back at will?
