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I don't blame you of thinking like that, but you should listen to this one. It is very important to be 100% sure that every part like rotors, seals and oil galeries are clean. You can have bearing fragments in places that you might not think of. At the end it is up to you though.. I am just saying..
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Since you'll be handling the rotors a lot to maneuver them on the press you're going to have to remove the seals, otherwise they may fall out, get damaged, or get lost. Cleaning should be minimal on the rotors hopefully. I would get all the old oil out of the rotor as well, just to be certain there's no trash down inside the rotor.
The sides of the rotors have labels on the slots. You can use those labels to identify the side seals and where they go to make reassembly much easier.
Dale
Damn you are so right I have to remove the side seals to press the bearings! I REALLY don't like those side seals. It was the worst part of the whole rebuild and by far! I think I used like 23 side seals to get 12 good at the end. I'll have to identify them very well because it took a lot of patience to trim them.
Alright, I guess I'll have to clean them then... I've got a couple of weeks to do it so I should be good (I don't think I'll receive the parts anytime soon)...
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; Apr 4, 2020 at 12:52 AM.
Just took a look at the rotors on my workbench (I'm actually building an engine today!) and there are numbers by the side seal slots.
One side of the rotor will have 1-3-5 by the slots, the other side will have 2-4-6. Just note which is front and rear rotor and label them. Should.be a cinch to put back together.
Just took a look at the rotors on my workbench (I'm actually building an engine today!) and there are numbers by the side seal slots.
One side of the rotor will have 1-3-5 by the slots, the other side will have 2-4-6. Just note which is front and rear rotor and label them. Should.be a cinch to put back together.
Dale
I will also have to put the corner seals at the same place too. I really don't want to redo that mess!
Originally Posted by TomU
This thread is all over the place and i love it (but not at the consequence of someone's FD not running).
I've got a spare engine in the garage. This is giving me motivation to tear into it (esp since there's not much else to do )
Haha I feel like I've been off topic a few times on this thread but the main thing is I got helped! I did a few mistakes that won't happen again.
Spare working engine? Someday I'll have that too! Or someday my engine won't blow up anymore!
Alright I'm putting my oil pump back together and I'm stuck there. Does anyone know which way this part goes?
Also, a general question here. Please tell me if I'm right.
Oil pump sucks oil from oil pan via pickup tube.
Oil pump pushes the oil to the oil coolers.
From the oil coolers, oil goes to the engine.
As I mentioned before in this thread, I mixed up the oil lines. I'm assuming it quickly blew all bearings. I attached the diagram of what I had. Why was there oil coming out of the turbo? It should have been a closed loop from the oil pump to oil coolers, no? I don't get it.
I also joined a diagram of how it should be (I think).
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; Apr 7, 2020 at 01:35 AM.
Didn't your pump eat up the front iron in one of the photos you posted? If so, I would assume the pump and front iron are garbage. I have a good pump in the attic.
For assembling the engine, if you don't mind me suggesting a series of videos by Blake Martinez. I think are about 4 videos, which for starters are great to watch. He gives you good tips when it is your "first time" assembling the engine.
this is the first one.
The diagram is correct how you have it on "red".
i think you have the oil pump assembled wrong. Double check on it.
The turbo was leaking oil, from where?
Exactly what I'm wondering... I posted exactly how the lines were mixed up, I don't get why oil was getting to turbo.
Originally Posted by alexdimen
Didn't your pump eat up the front iron in one of the photos you posted? If so, I would assume the pump and front iron are garbage. I have a good pump in the attic.
I changed a rotor set inside that was scratched, I started a thread only regarding the front iron and it was assumed I could safely put it back like it was.
But I still sent an email about it to Chip Motorsports this morning. I would like to save that iron because it has been ported by a shop (and unfortunately they didn't see the scratch).
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Has anyone else ever seen an oil pump that looks like that? That is SUPER weird.
That's a typical FD (and FC) oil pump.
Dale
Maybe my picture was confusing, my pump is like that too!
Originally Posted by Red94fd
For sure is assambled wrong.. there is no reason why removing all the parts inside of it.
This is the exact picture I needed. Thank you!
Originally Posted by Red94fd
For assembling the engine, if you don't mind me suggesting a series of videos by Blake Martinez. I think are about 4 videos, which for starters are great to watch. He gives you good tips when it is your "first time" assembling the engine.
this is the first one.
It should had been all the same size.. lol..
get an good use one and forget about messing with it.
Holy!!! I just looked at my previous orders. This is exactly what I ordered. It doesn't seem to fit a FD3S! So the engine ran with that rotor set. How did I let that happen? The rotor set seems to be for an FC/RX-8. Wow. I've got no clue how it happened, I still had the old one in hand when I replaced it... I just don't get it. I reinstalled the oil pump and it is not flush. If I had the (longer) rotor set it would sit flush I just measured it. It doesn't seem to be possible to buy a rotor set for FD3S, so I'll have to shop for a used oil pump.
I just can't believe it. I didn't even want to bother with that oil pump at first. Wow!
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; Apr 7, 2020 at 11:47 AM.
After stories of them selling the wrong rear shaft oil seals, I'd be leery of Atkins parts or at least double check the part no. N326-14-140 comes up as an 04-08 RX-8 part.
I highly recommend Ray Crowe for OEM parts. You don't even need to know the part no.
After stories of them selling the wrong rear shaft oil seals, I'd be leery of Atkins parts or at least double check the part no. N326-14-140 comes up as an 04-08 RX-8 part.
I highly recommend Ray Crowe for OEM parts. You don't even need to know the part no.
Quite honestly, I just ordered $467 worth of parts from Atkins this morning, and it was a pain (one would think that it could be worth for them to give me a good service for that amount). It took a full week to get the order going for 4 bearings along with there rebuild kit (with OEM parts instead of aftermarket). And I'm not even talking about some of their parts. As I mentioned before, I am not impressed with them. I will contact Ray Crowe instead next time (when US borders reopen).
Just trying to follow along. Is what happened the FC/RX8 oil pump is narrower than the FD, and was installed in the FD oil pump housing which is deeper? So then when the engine was run it didn't work properly and killed the bearings and eshaft?
I think that oil pump may have been the root of everything. At least you know that!
Really, the oil pump rarely if ever fails. Even "bad" oil pumps make good oil pressure.
I would track down a good used one and call it a day. I wouldn't try to fix that one or replace parts of it, it's just not worth it.
Dale
Each time after the car stalled I was hearing a light noise from something turning somewhere and I'm pretty sure it was the oil pump. I already located a used oil pump 110 miles away from home. I don't think it is possible to buy FD3S oil pump rotor sets anyway (only FC3S and RX-8 for some reason).
Originally Posted by TwinCharged RX7
Just trying to follow along. Is what happened the FC/RX8 oil pump is narrower than the FD, and was installed in the FD oil pump housing which is deeper? So then when the engine was run it didn't work properly and killed the bearings and eshaft?
Well, this and the fact that I mixed up oil lines all over the place (and also left 2 places in the air, with no hose or anything). My oiling system was a complete mess.
So today I went to pick-up a BRAND NEW oil pan, 100 miles away from home. I repeat: BRAND NEW. I even asked him if it was brand new or "as new", he told me NO it's BRAND NEW. It's all written on Messenger!
Here's the BRAND NEW oil pan. I've seen people hiding stuff when they sell cars, but simple car parts like that? What did he expect me to say? I was kind of mad and his neighbors were outside. So he gave me the pan and asked me to send him money if I manage to remove these bolts. I can not believe it.
That's an original OEM pan too, it's not the updated one with the larger bolt hole on the back lip for the steel motor mount. Wow. The sheared off bolts really set it off!
Two words, Ray Crowe. It may be a little more expensive and take a little longer to get (i believe USPS still is delivering across the border), but you get the right parts
Good God... is that the new oil pan?
Hell Noooo....
I would not buy that junk.
It is the brand new oil pan. Lesson learned! It only happens with local Facebook people!
Originally Posted by DaleClark
That's an original OEM pan too, it's not the updated one with the larger bolt hole on the back lip for the steel motor mount. Wow. The sheared off bolts really set it off!
Dale
I was supposed to buy the tools today to remove these bolts but this morning I changed my mind: this pan is going straight into the garbage.
Originally Posted by TomU
Don't even think about using that pan.
Two words, Ray Crowe. It may be a little more expensive and take a little longer to get (i believe USPS still is delivering across the border), but you get the right parts
Atkins shipped my order yesterday. I would have ordered an oil pan at the same time. It is very expensive to ship from USA to Canada.
I'm afraid I'm gonna have to buy another used oil pan, I'm not paying another $60 of shipping for that. The local guy who's gonna sell me an oil pump got one and I know he's legit.
)
is that the new oil pan?