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Most new clutches come with a plastic clutch alignment tool -
If the clutch isn't dead on lined up that can be a fight to get the transmission's input shaft to line up and seat fully. If you can find one easily locally, great, if not get it as best you can. Sometimes you can use a socket extension or something as a stand in.
I've seen cases when installing the engine where the transmission just gets most of the way but there's still a tiny gap, getting a bolt in there and bringing it in the rest of the way can be helpful. You also want to watch the angle of the trans to the engine, they both have to be flat to each other. If the bottom of the engine is too close to the trans and the top has a big gap it will obviously not line up and seat.
I've also set the engine down on the subframe to take tension off the chain and moved the chain on the hook one link to change the angle the engine is hanging with relation to the trans.
Be super careful using a bolt to draw it together. If any binding that's how you break the ears off the rear iron. Just push it hard and wiggle until it's together.
Agreed, the bolt should smoothly bring the two together, if it is requiring a lot of force to tighten something's not right. And don't use an impact gun to bring them together!
The clutch alignment tool is only like three bucks or so. It's a fairly common spline size I guess and I think it was a Ford clutch alignment tool. It's been a long time since I've had to do a clutch on these cars, but I remember the tool being fairly easy to obtain.
The clutch alignment tool is only like three bucks or so. It's a fairly common spline size I guess and I think it was a Ford clutch alignment tool. It's been a long time since I've had to do a clutch on these cars, but I remember the tool being fairly easy to obtain.
Originally Posted by TwinCharged RX7
Be super careful using a bolt to draw it together. If any binding that's how you break the ears off the rear iron. Just push it hard and wiggle until it's together.
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Most new clutches come with a plastic clutch alignment tool -
If the clutch isn't dead on lined up that can be a fight to get the transmission's input shaft to line up and seat fully. If you can find one easily locally, great, if not get it as best you can. Sometimes you can use a socket extension or something as a stand in.
I've seen cases when installing the engine where the transmission just gets most of the way but there's still a tiny gap, getting a bolt in there and bringing it in the rest of the way can be helpful. You also want to watch the angle of the trans to the engine, they both have to be flat to each other. If the bottom of the engine is too close to the trans and the top has a big gap it will obviously not line up and seat.
I've also set the engine down on the subframe to take tension off the chain and moved the chain on the hook one link to change the angle the engine is hanging with relation to the trans.
Dale
I went to the local auto parts store and they didn't have the plastic alignement tool, they wanted to sell me an expensive kit instead... So I just went back home, look up in my junk... And I found the tool. I had it the whole time, haha. Oh well. I moved to a new garage last year and I didn't know I brought it with me.
I connected the tool to the eccentric shaft and it was perfectly centered. So the tool was entirely useless for me. My eyes were my best tool!
Engine installation: last year we were 3 to get that engine connected to the transmission and we broke the "crown" the first time we tried.
That time, I was completely by myself. Only tools: engine hoist, chain, jack stand. It wasn't that bad. Engine is now connected to the transmission. It took about 1h30, which is satisfying. I didn't manage to install the engine mounts though... These jobs would be much easier if I had some friends here (I moved 300 miles away last year).
And I couldn't find the 2 lower bellhousings bolts (left and right). I'll have to order them at the dealership tomorrow.
I'm still planning to start that engine before saturday!
Nice! The clutch alignment tool is a good way to go but if it's lined up, it's lined up.
You should be able to start the car without those 2 engine-trans bolts in place. I wouldn't drive the car like that but you should be able to fire it up and let it do the first idle.
Biggie before you go to start the car - pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine until you show oil pressure. That will make sure oil is everywhere it should be to start with and nothing is dry, also a good way to make 100% sure the oil system is working properly and building proper pressure. Should take 10-20 seconds of cranking to show pressure on the gauge.
Nice! The clutch alignment tool is a good way to go but if it's lined up, it's lined up.
You should be able to start the car without those 2 engine-trans bolts in place. I wouldn't drive the car like that but you should be able to fire it up and let it do the first idle.
Biggie before you go to start the car - pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine until you show oil pressure. That will make sure oil is everywhere it should be to start with and nothing is dry, also a good way to make 100% sure the oil system is working properly and building proper pressure. Should take 10-20 seconds of cranking to show pressure on the gauge.
Hope to hear more good news soon.
Dale
Thanks for the tips!! I'm not even sure I will want to go further without these 2 transmission bolts. I don't want anything to be in the way, especially for the long bolt that goes to the starter (lower left).
I know that my ultimate problem was the lack of oil on bearings, my lesson has been learned and I will make sure I've got oil pressure before trying to start the engine!
Alright it's going a bit slow, I had a hard time installing both engine mounts, and I had to work on the manifold studs (threads were worn).
Now, exhaust manifold and engine mounts have been installed. Next will be the clutch slave cylinder and the turbo. Once these 2 items are done, it will be pretty fast.
EDIT: This it it. Final stretch ahead. I couldn't install the turbo tonight because I am missing a LIM bolt (turbo is going to be in the way if I install it). I still went ahead and install clutch slave cylinder, water pump housing, power steering rack, injectors... Only critical part of the job remaining is the wiring. I will really take my time, and I've got a brand new single turbo harness too!
So everything is now installed. I removed EGI fuse, cranked up the engine... I get EXTREMELY low cranking speed now. Held the key for 20 seconds, and I blew the 200A fuse, once more. I'm back to the same problem that I had before I rebuilt the engine a 2nd time, only difference is that the cranking speed is even lower now.
I can't remember where that red cable was. It's the aftermarket cable that comes directly from the battery in the trunk. Could it be my problem?
Sorry to hear it's cranking slow. I'm not sure if the red wire is in the right place, that LOOKS right but it'a hard to say with how your setup is.
I see the original ground wire in the background where it bolts to the wiring bracket and that looks pretty ratty and possibly loose. Could be a ground issue. I'm still suspicious of the wiring from the battery relocation.
Did you at some point rule out the starter itself as being good?
... Held the key for 20 seconds, and I blew the 200A fuse, once more. I'm back to the same problem that I had before I rebuilt the engine a 2nd time, only difference is that the cranking speed is even lower now.
I can't remember where that red cable was. It's the aftermarket cable that comes directly from the battery in the trunk. Could it be my problem?
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Sorry to hear it's cranking slow. I'm not sure if the red wire is in the right place, that LOOKS right but it'a hard to say with how your setup is.
I see the original ground wire in the background where it bolts to the wiring bracket and that looks pretty ratty and possibly loose. Could be a ground issue. I'm still suspicious of the wiring from the battery relocation.
Did you at some point rule out the starter itself as being good?
Dale
Not that this at all addresses the slow cranking root cause, but I'd try cranking with the spark plugs removed. That will raise the cranking speed and get your oil pressure up faster, while putting less stress on everything.
Held the key for 20 seconds, and I blew the 200A fuse, once more. I'm back to the same problem that I had before I rebuilt the engine a 2nd time, only difference is that the cranking speed is even lower now.
That's because you never addressed that problem. You've got a short somewhere
AC clutch connector, power steering wire connector, connector for coil pack harness.
Dale
Thanks! I didn't find the PS connector - no rush for now I'll do that later!
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Sorry to hear it's cranking slow. I'm not sure if the red wire is in the right place, that LOOKS right but it'a hard to say with how your setup is.
I see the original ground wire in the background where it bolts to the wiring bracket and that looks pretty ratty and possibly loose. Could be a ground issue. I'm still suspicious of the wiring from the battery relocation.
Did you at some point rule out the starter itself as being good?
Dale
I installed a spare starter and I didn't see any change in the cranking speed (that was before I took the engine out, in March). The ground that you see in the background is tight (not sure if it's in the right spot though), and at the end of this cable is the OEM negative cable, which is floating in the air right now. Battery setup is quite simple. I just drew a diagram of it.
Originally Posted by DaveW
Not that this at all addresses the slow cranking root cause, but I'd try cranking with the spark plugs removed. That will raise the cranking speed and get your oil pressure up faster, while putting less stress on everything.
Good idea, it is much faster... And I see oil pressure! And I cranked the engine for much longer than last night and the 200A never blew. I thought I would see it live, but cluster seems completely dead when I crank. I am not sure if it is normal. But when I stop cranking I see the needle going up, and then down.
That's because you never addressed that problem. You've got a short somewhere
I do not know. I checked a lot of things in the wiring, fixed some stuff... And still the same issue. I'm out of ideas.
Right now, everything is plugged in, cranking speed got much more decent, I even tried to fire it up... No luck. No explosion. When I crank the engine, PFC Commander screen is turning off. It was on at all time before... I am still very concerned about that positive cable. I don't think it was there. I do not know where to put it.
Idk if this will fix it or not. But you need to run a ground wire from your battery (or where the negative cable bolts to the car) to the block of the engine. Not having this can cause a number of issues.
Idk if this will fix it or not. But you need to run a ground wire from your battery (or where the negative cable bolts to the car) to the block of the engine. Not having this can cause a number of issues.
I will try that this week but I don't think it will fix my actual issue.
I searched on the forum and I realized that my F100 module (CPU #2) is wrong for sure. Commander screen and cluster completely shuts off when I crank the engine, do you think it could be the reason?
EDIT: I took the module off. It is dead. Could it be the reason of my 200A fuses blowing? My commander screen and cluster shutting off when I crank the engine? I don't think so, the engine still cranks without it. For sure it is the reason of my pulsing power (very first post on this thread). A local guy told me that I can get a 1996+ module, it is plug and play, and it never fails. What do you think?
Still no luck. As mentioned before, cranking speed is decent since I removed 2 spark plugs. I put them back and it is still OK (I wouldn't call it perfect, but it is OK). No 200A fuse blown today. It has been good all day.
ACTUAL PROBLEM:
Engine doesn't start.
Key on: cluster and PFC Commander turns on. When I crank the engine, both shut off (and turn back on when I stop cranking).
No fuel ever went into the engine. Fuel pump works, I can hear it.
EGI fuse installed. I can hear the EGI relay also.
EDIT: OEM 120A fuse is blown. Why did I still have power? I'm pretty sure that positive cable isn't where it should be. Where is that positive cable going, I've got no clue... It should be so simple.
Alright. I think I know why 120A fuse was blown. At first I installed the positive cable on the wrong side of the fuse box. That must be why. Now I replaced it.
Now.
I crank the engine, cluster and PFC Commander are staying on, as it should. Engine has some explosions but doesn't start. I'm slow charging the battery right now.
Ok so now I'm stuck for good I think. Engine cranks at a speed better than ever, some explosions here and there... Without any luck. I unflooded the engine, poured 2-stroke oil in 2 leading holes, without success.
For sure there is fuel coming at both housings now. Compression is also strong. Even if they were brand new years ago and I never really ran the engine with them, I'm thinking of wasting some more money and buying new spark plugs + wires. I'm out of ideas.
Where is the ignition harness ground supposed to go when car is stock?
Everything was set for a perfect start, but no. Still no luck. That car doesn't start. Rear plugs seem wetter than front plugs. I already ordered new spark plugs. But maybe I want to get these injectors checked, even if they were freshly cleaned...
I would disconnect the injectors, take off the intake pipe, squirt in a bunch of starting fluid while someone cranks it. If it fires that will let you know if it's a fueling issue or something else like timing or other ignition system issues.
It will just keep flooding if the issue is with the ignition system, so you want to try to rule that out before deep diving on the fuel system.
I would disconnect the injectors, take off the intake pipe, squirt in a bunch of starting fluid while someone cranks it. If it fires that will let you know if it's a fueling issue or something else like timing or other ignition system issues.
It will just keep flooding if the issue is with the ignition system, so you want to try to rule that out before deep diving on the fuel system.
I just ordered new spark plug wires. I'll receive new plugs and wires thursday. I do not have friends here, I am alone in my garage. If new plugs and wires don't work, I'll try the injectors.
04-29-20, 10:46 AM
