ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

So I'm about to embark on a fairly deep rebuild on my R2 and I'm trying to figure out if I need to get the trans rebuilt or if the clutch is the source of shifting issues. Obviously, while the engine is out for a rebuilt it would be nice to do it all at once if it's needed. Thus, I'm trying to trouble shoot so I don't have to pay additional labor to pull the trans again later.

Symptoms are simple....the car is damn near impossible to get into gear almost all of the time. It's worse when it's cold but even when warm, it's a total bitch. It's better when the car is moving but first and reverse are the worst. Not sure if it's just because the car is at a standstill or if it's those gears in particular.

No grinding of any kind. Once it's in, it's in.

I should note that the clutch belongs in a landfill since it's absolute trash. No idea what was done to it by the previous owner. Thus, I'm replacing it with a brand new one once I get the rebuild going. So I'm trying to figure out if the clutch is causing this issue or if the transmission is the issue. Any ideas how I might trouble shoot this?

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Bent clutch fork? Is the clutch adjusted and engaging properly?

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

It's fairly shitty all around. Chatters a good bit sometimes but I don't think it's totally worn out.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Could also be clutch hydraulics. A heavy clutch with old hydraulics can result in the engagement point for the pedal being right off the floor and many times it's hard to get in gear since the clutch is still semi-engaged. New clutch master, slave, and a stainless braided clutch line fixes that right up.

I'm a big fan of Exedy clutches for most FD applications. I have the Stage 1 clutch in my car, full face disc with a heavier pressure plate. Running about 350hp or so with zero slipping or drama and only a little more "umph" needed on the clutch pedal. Super smooth to drive and OEM quality.

Probably need to give us a few more specifics. Also, sloppy shift lever bushings can make finding a gear a pain.

Dale

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

I believe the clutch is stock but until I get in there I don't know for sure. I do know it has a SS line going to it but only because I can see it. I also thought that it might be possible the clutch is still semi-engaged at the bottom of the clutch travel. I'll be replacing it with an Exedy Stage 2 and pairing it with a new lightweight flywheel (and rear auto counter weight). Shooting for 400 at the wheels.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Sounds like a nice setup!

Could also have the wrong gear oil the transmission (or really old stuff).

Dale

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

I just changed that recently so it should be fresh. Did the diff after I did the diff seals too.

From what I'm hearing, throw a new clutch in there as planned and see how it goes?

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

+1 on Clutch fork but it's worth bleeding and checking the movement of the clutch slave cylinder

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Some other ways to spend your money are a new rear main seal, pilot and seal, rear transmission seal and, of course, the release/throw-out bearing. I don't think the slave is much to just replace if it comes to it.

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

I'm glad someone at least is honest about what we do here on this forum lol.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, lol... it’s a lot easier to spend other people’s money.
But honestly most of those things really don’t cost too much. And think of the money you’ll save when you find out your transmission is fine!

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Going to be hard to diagnose with the motor out of the car, but it sounds like a disengagement issue. Clutch fork won't bend as its cast. The do snap sometimes. I would suspect a slave or master issue. Replace both together.