So I'm driving along yesterday on the highway and hear a "CLINK" out from my car. I pull over to see if anything is wrong, but see no signs of damage. Drive a few more miles and thought I heard the "CLINK" again. Not until later at home I pop my hood and see my torque damper side ways. The bolts had been ripped out of their threads from the UIM.

Ok I know that I need new engine mounts and because my 7 is a little punk, I thought maybe the torque damper could be a band aid till I can get the engine to work RIGHT!!! and get new engine mounts.

So now I guess a heli-coil will have to be in order once I tear off the UIM.

 

uh ouch...which torque dampener do you have?

 

i don't think it matters which one he had. with mounts that are trashed, a guy can't expect an engine damper to take their place as they were designed to work with good conditioned mounts.

Sorry to hear man. i personally got another steel mount and ordered the poly mounts from banzai.

 

true...I realize that. I was just curious.

 

It is a no-name brand $40 one from Ebay. Seemed like it was working good, fit fine, but like stated above...can't expect to bolts threaded to an UIM to take the place of good motor mounts, especially as much as my engine coughs and bucks around.

Guess this is my wake up call to get some mounts on order!

 

Ebay dampers are not dampers but solid inside the tube .A damper should have a small amount of movement like rubber bushings do . Good motor mounts are a must have , no engine torque brace is a replacement for worn out mounts .

 

yeah i heard the ebay damper were just very solid bushing if not solid.. To bad, i have the eba damper, if i knew i would have gotten a feels one or made one myself.

 

^ Yours I'm sure will be ok because you don't have an engine buckin, spittin and sputterin all the time.

I thought it was more like a shock that flexes laterally

 

Are you sure the bolts were tight? And you were just driving along on the highway....no hard launches lately?

 

my ebay damper is rubber inside

 

I got a damper off of EBAY and modified it. Used a combination of cut down rubber bushings, washers and springs. Where it mounts against the wall, I put in a 1/2" thick hi-density rubber washer between the angle bracket and the wall. This setup acts more like a damper and helps reduce excessive vibration caused by the original setup.
-chuck

 

I posted a few in the Picture thread instead of here.

 

Go with the Noltec polyurethane motor mounts. After I put those in I no longer needed the torque brace.

 

Wow! Noltec is pretty proud of their engine mounts, but I have no doubt that they work.

 

+1.
But then I think that probably applies to any urethane mount.

 

I had stock mounts and Garfinkles torque brace, and my mounts were at the end of their life, but that torque brace worked EXTREMELY well.

Now that I have Banzai mounts, I probably won't use the torque brace (but going to try each way to see) just because i know the poly mounts work and the torque brace and how well it performs on top of that will probably chatter the teeth out of my mouth.

 

I'm actually lookin' for a quality torque brace so if you decide to sell yours anytime soon, I'll purchase. Please let me know in case you do...

 

A good punch in 4th is far more torque than any sputtering or bucking will create. Every FD could with worn mounts and a crappy torque damper could do it.

Like Garfinkle said, fix the mounts and add the torque damper if needed. Bandaids hurt when they rip off and you're not ready for it.

Dave

 

^You don't understand this car. There is NO punching it in 4th and expecting ANYTHING to happen. This band-aid was a quick remedy only for times I have to drive the car before the tear down coming up.

Good analogy of ripping a band-aid though.

 

After I pulled the UIM off today, I found out that the threads are ok. I will not need a heli-coil after all, just some new bolts