A tool to measure your 0-60s and 1/4 mile times!
#1
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A tool to measure your 0-60s and 1/4 mile times!
Anyone try this:
http://www.gtechpro.com/
Opinions and accuracy?
I have no affiliation here, but just curious if anyone has tried?
http://www.gtechpro.com/
Opinions and accuracy?
I have no affiliation here, but just curious if anyone has tried?
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
i had some friends that tried it. it is damn accurate for the 1/4 mile. but the trap speed will be higher with the G-Tech since it takes instantaneous MPH, instead of how it is at the strip.
#3
yeah, it is accurate. The speed is high cause the track will take your average speed with in the last 60' or something like that. 1/4 time is accurate though. I took mine to the track and it was with in .2 sec each time. It's cool cause this is about the only way people can measure your 0-60. I think the fastest time I got for 0-60 was 4.3 but that took alot of clutch along with it
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That is cool for such a small cheap device. I may buy it to satisfy my thrills. It looks like you just basically plug it in and mount it...that is it...
#5
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Thnx alot Frank!
Ive been wanting one of these things for a long time but forgot about it till now!!!!! Now you made me go and bid on one on eBay!
If I get Ill let yall know how it works, Ive been wanting to mount one of those to my bike for a loooong time.
Ive been wanting one of these things for a long time but forgot about it till now!!!!! Now you made me go and bid on one on eBay!
If I get Ill let yall know how it works, Ive been wanting to mount one of those to my bike for a loooong time.
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#8
Originally posted by Javamancer
Anyone know how accurate the HP measurement is?
Anyone know how accurate the HP measurement is?
#9
I bought a g-tech a while ago when they first came out. Did a lot of reading beforehand, and this is what I found out....
It's a basic one axis accelerometer, meaning you CAN do skidpads as well as acceleration (both peak and sustained), just not at the same time. Another downside is that you have to be extremely particular about getting it mounted COMPLETELY level on your windshield, which is no easy task. But once you have it mounted correctly, it's very precise, just not necessarily accurate. In other words, it's fantastic at seeing if some mod makes you faster, but you can't necessarily depend on the numbers being correct. Popular opinion seems to be that the skidpad, acceleration, 0-60, 1/4 mile, and 60-0 times are pretty accurate, but the HP reading tends to be off.
Personally, I like mine, but it looks like there's a new product out there that does datalogging on multiple axiis to a palm pilot (can't remember the name but I saw it on one of the main rx7 sites). I'd probably go with that now since it would be great for autocrossing, except it's more expensive.
And I don't think you necessarily have to find level ground. Just go both ways and average the runs.
My two cents...
It's a basic one axis accelerometer, meaning you CAN do skidpads as well as acceleration (both peak and sustained), just not at the same time. Another downside is that you have to be extremely particular about getting it mounted COMPLETELY level on your windshield, which is no easy task. But once you have it mounted correctly, it's very precise, just not necessarily accurate. In other words, it's fantastic at seeing if some mod makes you faster, but you can't necessarily depend on the numbers being correct. Popular opinion seems to be that the skidpad, acceleration, 0-60, 1/4 mile, and 60-0 times are pretty accurate, but the HP reading tends to be off.
Personally, I like mine, but it looks like there's a new product out there that does datalogging on multiple axiis to a palm pilot (can't remember the name but I saw it on one of the main rx7 sites). I'd probably go with that now since it would be great for autocrossing, except it's more expensive.
And I don't think you necessarily have to find level ground. Just go both ways and average the runs.
My two cents...
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the hp reading is off because of aerodynamic drag
also, you have to be in a high gear to get it to read correctly ... for best reults, you need it to be in the gear you dyno in (and at high rpms), so if you dyno in 4th, then you need to find some nice level and very straight road that you can hit 120+ on. This high speed run is what causes a big loss due to aerodynamic drag
also, you have to be in a high gear to get it to read correctly ... for best reults, you need it to be in the gear you dyno in (and at high rpms), so if you dyno in 4th, then you need to find some nice level and very straight road that you can hit 120+ on. This high speed run is what causes a big loss due to aerodynamic drag
#11
Originally posted by billvp
the hp reading is off because of aerodynamic drag
also, you have to be in a high gear to get it to read correctly ... for best reults, you need it to be in the gear you dyno in (and at high rpms), so if you dyno in 4th, then you need to find some nice level and very straight road that you can hit 120+ on. This high speed run is what causes a big loss due to aerodynamic drag
the hp reading is off because of aerodynamic drag
also, you have to be in a high gear to get it to read correctly ... for best reults, you need it to be in the gear you dyno in (and at high rpms), so if you dyno in 4th, then you need to find some nice level and very straight road that you can hit 120+ on. This high speed run is what causes a big loss due to aerodynamic drag
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