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Thoughts on cooling??

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Old May 29, 2003 | 08:53 AM
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Thoughts on cooling??

I have heard where people have placed a small fan in the engine bay that are used to keep v8s cool in boats.
These fans move alot of air and keep temps down in the boat engine bays. Why wouldnt it work for an FD?
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Old May 29, 2003 | 09:03 AM
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Umm, there are fans in the engine bay.

You can always add a fan to your IC if you feel the need.
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Old May 29, 2003 | 09:11 AM
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I was thinking it would be more to lower temps to extend the life of items under the hood.
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Old May 29, 2003 | 09:49 AM
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Originally posted by Rotogod
I was thinking it would be more to lower temps to extend the life of items under the hood.
And where is the fan going to draw air from and exhaust air to? Where would you mount such a fan?

Your idea is not possible given the layout of the engine compartment unless you start modifying things....
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Old May 29, 2003 | 09:52 AM
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as many cfm as the fans move exhausting it would be the only issue. These fans are about as big around as a spray paint can cap.
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Old May 29, 2003 | 09:59 AM
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Do you have any links to these fans?
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Old May 29, 2003 | 10:05 AM
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I will try to get a hold of my friend who races and has them and see exactly what they are
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Old May 29, 2003 | 10:55 AM
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Why not just look into a vented hood? Seems like a much more practical idea for removing heat from the engine bay than trying to fill it up with fans.
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Old May 29, 2003 | 10:57 AM
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I think all you will accomplish is slightly prolonging the life of the hoses under the hood. Do you really think it's worth the trouble?
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Old May 29, 2003 | 11:04 AM
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Great idea. You could possibly exhaust into the wheel well. I know there is a path on the drivers side as I ran my battery cable through it. Or possible an oval vent coming out under the hood at the windshield.
I dont want a vented hood because of water troubles.

See below for a good controller. I bought one for the pusher fan in front of my AC compressor so it will stay on as long as it takes to cool the engine after a run:

Summit racing Part No. PRM-18905
This wiring kit includes 160-210 degrees F adjustable thermal sensor, 30 amp relay switch, 12 ft. of 16 gauge wire, 5 ft. of 10 gauge wire, connectors, fuse block taps, fuse holder with 30 amp fuse, and instructions.

See also:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=177106
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Old May 29, 2003 | 11:21 AM
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i agree with mahjik. a vented hood and a downpipe should drop underhood temps dramatically. i just installed a fluidyne radiator and that alone dropped the temps under the hood.
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Old May 29, 2003 | 12:00 PM
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Bilge Blowers
A bilge blower is important not only because the USCG may require it, but also because your life may depend on it. The Coast Guard stipulates the use of a mechanical ventilation system for all non-open type boats built after July 31, 1980 which run on gasoline. Even if your boat is older, it still must conform to USCG minimum ventilation levels, and may require a bilge blower to satisfy those guidelines.


Venting your bilge of potentially lethal gas fumes is no job for a jury rig. Bilge blower units are designed and constructed specifically for their life in the trenches - electrical components are "ignition protected" to prevent sparking and causing the explosion that they are installed to avert, and the units are built to withstand over-heating and corrosion.

Bilge blowers are available to move air in two ways - some units feature a squirrel cage configuration, while others favor a "tunnel", or "in-line" design which utilizes a small fan. The type you choose will depend on the space available and on how you plan to mount it. Both types evacuate air very efficiently, and are available in sizes which handle 100-250 c.f.m. (cubic feet of air per minute). The size you need is determined by the volume of your engine compartment (see below).

The minimum recommended time you should run the blower to ventilate the bilge is four minutes. Before switching it on, however, rely on one of the most sensitive odor-detectors you have - your nose. No bilge blower will rid the compartment of spilled fuel, which will continue to emit vapors. Whether your boat is subject to regulations or not, bilge blowers make good sense.

A Rough Guide to Selecting Blower Sizes
For engine spaces up to:

70 cu. ft - 100 c.f.m. blower

71 to 100 cu. ft. - 150 c.f.m. blower

101 to 300 cu. ft. - 250 c.f.m. blower
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Old May 29, 2003 | 12:03 PM
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From: WV
Attwood 3"
Inline Blower

145 Cfm, Compact Design , 12 Volt
Fits 3' hose,
2.7Amp Draw
Dimensions 5 1/32" L X 5 1/16" W
(including mounting feet)
Order # ATT17314 $18.95




http://www.parkeryamaha.com/bilgeblower.htm
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Old May 29, 2003 | 12:13 PM
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Originally posted by tmiked
I dont want a vented hood because of water troubles.
That whole vented hood and water thing is another myth similiar to the 3-mod rule. Check the following thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=121921

There are many people running vented hoods and water is not a problem. Sure, if you have exposed wires it could be a problem, but you shouldn't have exposed wires in the first place.

Last edited by Mahjik; May 29, 2003 at 12:19 PM.
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Old May 29, 2003 | 01:37 PM
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It seems these would protect the fuel lines and wiring around the engine that was brittled and leaking on mine. Active moving air over the top of the engine.

Would 12 volt computer fans do the job? Could they be mounted on the bottom side of the hood? How could a fan be controlled and wired to run based on temperature under the hood after ignition shut down?
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Old May 29, 2003 | 01:42 PM
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You what I always thought would work good, I had this blower from like a big hair dryer that I got from Ax Man a while ago... It blows lots of air
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