Thoughts on cooling??
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Thoughts on cooling??
I have heard where people have placed a small fan in the engine bay that are used to keep v8s cool in boats.
These fans move alot of air and keep temps down in the boat engine bays. Why wouldnt it work for an FD?
These fans move alot of air and keep temps down in the boat engine bays. Why wouldnt it work for an FD?
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Originally posted by Rotogod
I was thinking it would be more to lower temps to extend the life of items under the hood.
I was thinking it would be more to lower temps to extend the life of items under the hood.
Your idea is not possible given the layout of the engine compartment unless you start modifying things....
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Great idea. You could possibly exhaust into the wheel well. I know there is a path on the drivers side as I ran my battery cable through it. Or possible an oval vent coming out under the hood at the windshield.
I dont want a vented hood because of water troubles.
See below for a good controller. I bought one for the pusher fan in front of my AC compressor so it will stay on as long as it takes to cool the engine after a run:
Summit racing Part No. PRM-18905
This wiring kit includes 160-210 degrees F adjustable thermal sensor, 30 amp relay switch, 12 ft. of 16 gauge wire, 5 ft. of 10 gauge wire, connectors, fuse block taps, fuse holder with 30 amp fuse, and instructions.
See also:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=177106
I dont want a vented hood because of water troubles.
See below for a good controller. I bought one for the pusher fan in front of my AC compressor so it will stay on as long as it takes to cool the engine after a run:
Summit racing Part No. PRM-18905
This wiring kit includes 160-210 degrees F adjustable thermal sensor, 30 amp relay switch, 12 ft. of 16 gauge wire, 5 ft. of 10 gauge wire, connectors, fuse block taps, fuse holder with 30 amp fuse, and instructions.
See also:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=177106
#11
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i agree with mahjik. a vented hood and a downpipe should drop underhood temps dramatically. i just installed a fluidyne radiator and that alone dropped the temps under the hood.
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Bilge Blowers
A bilge blower is important not only because the USCG may require it, but also because your life may depend on it. The Coast Guard stipulates the use of a mechanical ventilation system for all non-open type boats built after July 31, 1980 which run on gasoline. Even if your boat is older, it still must conform to USCG minimum ventilation levels, and may require a bilge blower to satisfy those guidelines.
Venting your bilge of potentially lethal gas fumes is no job for a jury rig. Bilge blower units are designed and constructed specifically for their life in the trenches - electrical components are "ignition protected" to prevent sparking and causing the explosion that they are installed to avert, and the units are built to withstand over-heating and corrosion.
Bilge blowers are available to move air in two ways - some units feature a squirrel cage configuration, while others favor a "tunnel", or "in-line" design which utilizes a small fan. The type you choose will depend on the space available and on how you plan to mount it. Both types evacuate air very efficiently, and are available in sizes which handle 100-250 c.f.m. (cubic feet of air per minute). The size you need is determined by the volume of your engine compartment (see below).
The minimum recommended time you should run the blower to ventilate the bilge is four minutes. Before switching it on, however, rely on one of the most sensitive odor-detectors you have - your nose. No bilge blower will rid the compartment of spilled fuel, which will continue to emit vapors. Whether your boat is subject to regulations or not, bilge blowers make good sense.
A Rough Guide to Selecting Blower Sizes
For engine spaces up to:
70 cu. ft - 100 c.f.m. blower
71 to 100 cu. ft. - 150 c.f.m. blower
101 to 300 cu. ft. - 250 c.f.m. blower
A bilge blower is important not only because the USCG may require it, but also because your life may depend on it. The Coast Guard stipulates the use of a mechanical ventilation system for all non-open type boats built after July 31, 1980 which run on gasoline. Even if your boat is older, it still must conform to USCG minimum ventilation levels, and may require a bilge blower to satisfy those guidelines.
Venting your bilge of potentially lethal gas fumes is no job for a jury rig. Bilge blower units are designed and constructed specifically for their life in the trenches - electrical components are "ignition protected" to prevent sparking and causing the explosion that they are installed to avert, and the units are built to withstand over-heating and corrosion.
Bilge blowers are available to move air in two ways - some units feature a squirrel cage configuration, while others favor a "tunnel", or "in-line" design which utilizes a small fan. The type you choose will depend on the space available and on how you plan to mount it. Both types evacuate air very efficiently, and are available in sizes which handle 100-250 c.f.m. (cubic feet of air per minute). The size you need is determined by the volume of your engine compartment (see below).
The minimum recommended time you should run the blower to ventilate the bilge is four minutes. Before switching it on, however, rely on one of the most sensitive odor-detectors you have - your nose. No bilge blower will rid the compartment of spilled fuel, which will continue to emit vapors. Whether your boat is subject to regulations or not, bilge blowers make good sense.
A Rough Guide to Selecting Blower Sizes
For engine spaces up to:
70 cu. ft - 100 c.f.m. blower
71 to 100 cu. ft. - 150 c.f.m. blower
101 to 300 cu. ft. - 250 c.f.m. blower
#13
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Attwood 3"
Inline Blower
145 Cfm, Compact Design , 12 Volt
Fits 3' hose,
2.7Amp Draw
Dimensions 5 1/32" L X 5 1/16" W
(including mounting feet)
Order # ATT17314 $18.95
http://www.parkeryamaha.com/bilgeblower.htm
Inline Blower
145 Cfm, Compact Design , 12 Volt
Fits 3' hose,
2.7Amp Draw
Dimensions 5 1/32" L X 5 1/16" W
(including mounting feet)
Order # ATT17314 $18.95
http://www.parkeryamaha.com/bilgeblower.htm
#14
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Originally posted by tmiked
I dont want a vented hood because of water troubles.
I dont want a vented hood because of water troubles.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=121921
There are many people running vented hoods and water is not a problem. Sure, if you have exposed wires it could be a problem, but you shouldn't have exposed wires in the first place.
Last edited by Mahjik; 05-29-03 at 12:19 PM.
#15
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It seems these would protect the fuel lines and wiring around the engine that was brittled and leaking on mine. Active moving air over the top of the engine.
Would 12 volt computer fans do the job? Could they be mounted on the bottom side of the hood? How could a fan be controlled and wired to run based on temperature under the hood after ignition shut down?
Would 12 volt computer fans do the job? Could they be mounted on the bottom side of the hood? How could a fan be controlled and wired to run based on temperature under the hood after ignition shut down?
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ZaqAtaq
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09-05-15 08:57 PM