3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Those without the stock cluster

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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 09:13 PM
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Those without the stock cluster

For you guys who don't run the stock cluster at all, what did you do for the exciter wire from the cluster to the alternator? Im curious if just the overheat light, which also runs to the exciter wire, will be enough without the lights in the factory cluster or if I will have to wire in an additional resistor.
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Old Nov 16, 2019 | 03:38 PM
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Since no one answered here, I'll update so anyone who searches will have an answer. If you remove the stock cluster, the exciter wire is still run through the exhaust overheat warning light, which is sufficient. There is also a diode in that circuit so no re wiring is necessary. However, if that bulb goes out the alternator will have to self excite so keep an eye on it.
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Old Feb 19, 2020 | 02:43 PM
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What if we have removed the overheat warning light as well? Anything else the exciter can be connected to? Is it actually needed or is it a "nice thing to have"?
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by b3delta
What if we have removed the overheat warning light as well? Anything else the exciter can be connected to? Is it actually needed or is it a "nice thing to have"?
The FD alternator will self excite if you rev it over 2000rpm I believe. However, if you want it to work like stock you'll have to wire in a small bulb.
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 10:25 AM
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Still wondering a little about it. If it's just a regular incandescent wired in, won't it be on all the time? I read somewhere else that a 120-150 Ohm resistor could also work. I'm guessing just from the alternator to resistor/bulb and then ground it? Would anything else be able to be used like tie into an existing source or does it need to be just a bulb/resistor.
(still learning about alternators)
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 11:26 AM
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No, 12v switched to the bulb to the exciter wire.
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Old Mar 1, 2020 | 01:56 PM
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Would someone be able to explain what's being discussed here? I don't understand at all what this is about lol
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Old Mar 1, 2020 | 06:06 PM
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+ 2 lol
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cr-rex
Would someone be able to explain what's being discussed here? I don't understand at all what this is about lol
Sounds like a two dudes talking about alternative excitement ...
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 12:50 PM
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The way I'm understanding it: the alternator doesn't charge at idle, so it needs to be "woken up" (excited) by a load on the alternator, done via a bulb on the wire that goes from Alternator to the gauge cluster and overheat exhaust sensor. Therefore if you have swapped out the stock cluster for different gauges, you need to put the bulb in the circuit to replace the one normally in the cluster.
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Old Apr 22, 2024 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Hungry
Since no one answered here, I'll update so anyone who searches will have an answer. If you remove the stock cluster, the exciter wire is still run through the exhaust overheat warning light, which is sufficient. There is also a diode in that circuit so no re wiring is necessary. However, if that bulb goes out the alternator will have to self excite so keep an eye on it.
Man, I love the forums and search function. I removed my instrument cluster and couldn't figure out why my alternator wasn't working. I found out that I needed a warning bulb and stumbled across the exhaust overheat warning light. Problem fixed!!! Thanks
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Old Apr 23, 2024 | 03:27 AM
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Since this thread was bumped, I stumbled across it. This is a new issue I've never heard about; do I need to do this with a JDM white cluster in my '94 USDM?
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Old Apr 23, 2024 | 05:17 PM
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No, the light bulb will act as a resistance. This is how the SL alternators work.
you can technically wire a resistor instead of a light bulb. I wired a 5w light bulb on mine when I removed the stock cluster.
think of it as an alternator system check. The stock cluster has this bulb built in

Last edited by R-R-Rx7; Apr 23, 2024 at 05:25 PM.
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